I have owned a few of the CGC games. The machines with the upgraded sound were just fine. Honestly the classic AFM I had didn't sound bad at all either, the LE had more punch.

I was very happy with the switch and if I didn't need a bluetooth option I wouldn't of added an amp.

davegauth - looking at your alpine/kicker comparison, would you say the alpines might be a better option for some pins? Sounds like your ultimate call was kind of GZ specific, and your description of the alpines sound like they might go better in a music pin. Kinda splitting hairs, but deciding what to put in the LZ I just picked up. Important decision when you're listening to the greatest band of all time

I did this with min, but stuck with kicker 4" for simplicity since I line out to my home theater anyway. Big upgrade, super easy. Then add the myth advanced flaming speaker kit

Thanks, I was pretty sure from your review you were going to say that. Do you happen to know if those are similar profile to the Kickers/Kenwood's? I just ordered the expression lighting speaker lights from ninja camp, gotta make sure the alpines will fit.

Also: What sub/midrange cab speaker are you going with for your rush?

Oh, and jackd104 - I wired a cheap crossover ($10-15 on Amazon) in front of the subwoofer and just turned off the stern EQ. You could probably get 10% improvement with the EQ if you want to play with it, but this was easy and sounds way better than stock with minimal hassle.

i saw some people used sex bolts to secure the new cabinet sub...

what else can i use?

would just longer 6/32 bolts with original nuts be fine?

original bolts has some sort of t-nut that goes into the cabinet wood...

thx for the help.

I too was going to reuse original nuts but I didn't have any longer 6/32, so I went with 8/32 bolts and nuts that I had plenty of. I didn't drill hole any bigger and the 8/32 threaded them self.

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Thx , did the same and it worked perfectly

Bought a Pinsound cabinet speaker and the posts in the cabinet aren’t long enough to fasten the spacer down. Anyone have this issue?

Just wanted to thank Pete-d , and robcraig for the stl files. I just got a 3d printer for Christmas. After the budda and the benchy. This is the first thing I printed and they came out damn near perfect. I really appreciate your guys effort. Thanks

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I tapped the original bolts out then drilled approx 1/4" up from the bottom of cabinet and re installed the original bolts into the counter sunk hole. Worked great, no need to buy new bolts. Use a drill bit that is the same diameter or slightly larger than the head of the original bolts. Quick and easy.

I'm looking to upgrade the sound on my recently acquired Spike 2 Rush Pro and have been reading the posts which have a lot of good info. I went to order the Subwoofer and Line-Out cable for the CN5 connector mentioned in post #244 from Pinsound but didn't realize they were in France until I was checking out and saw the 2 to 5 weeks shipping time. I searched US pin suppliers hoping to find the Pinsound cable in the US for quicker shipping. I don't have the molex pins or tools to make my own mentioned in this thread. My question is does anyone know of a US source that has the PinSound cable? If not, then I'll place my order with PinSound, I know they have quicker shipping options which are expensive considering the cable is $20 and I'd rather pay for the standard 2 to 5 weeks shipping.

Thanks,
David

This will get you there, and they generally ship fast: https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/stern-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-spike-spike2-stern-kit

The line out will be in front of the stern EQ; you can use that if you want, or turn off EQ in settings.

Rest of the stuff for my LZ upgrade came today, woot.

Thanks and I looked at this Pinnovator gizmo but would rather use the CN5 connector than the speaker connections. I went ahead and ordered 2 cables from Pinsound last night and being in France, got an order shipped email this morning. I have a Munsters too so figured I'd get a cable for that one as well and be ready if/when I do auxiliary sound for it.

I have a basic question which I may have missed finding info about in this topic. Can I use a surround sound system like for a TV and connect the CN5's line-out cable/jack to the input of the surround sound replacing the TV's input? I don't have any surround sound/audio experience so might sound like a strange question, but I have to start somewhere getting Rush to sound better!!

Thanks

Alright, so my new kickers speakers and jbl sub are in but i dont know the next steps. Thx for the help guys, im scratching my head. Lol
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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/37#post-6808277

This post covers pretty much everything you need to do since you have all of the parts, already.

If you're not using a powered sub, then you would just run R/L from CN5 on the Spike2 board to the RCA inputs on your Dayton amp, then out to the R/L speakers and sub, making sure to unplug the sub and R/L speakers from CN1 and CN4.

I've a super small window to find the stl files to get someone to print these for me.

I'd save the posts bit can't drive this forum to bring up the post!

Can someone link the Pete d files that has the separate spacer for the full bracket replacement with the 5 inch speakers?

I also have a powered polk sub

Do i need to run each bb speaker to left right amp? So all 4 will we plugged in?
Same thing for cab speaker, run it to left right amp ?

My cn5 to stereo sub is connected to external polk sub
My cn5 to stereo line-out is connected to nothing.

CN5 -> Dayton Amp and Powered Sub
Dayton Amp -> Backbox and Cabinet speaker

Although if you have the powered sub you probably don't need the cabinet speaker/JBL.

I really, like the effect of decent sub rumbling the cab while playing. I line out to a Definitive Tech 6.1 system and still add a sub to all the pins.

I just put this JBL 82A in my led zep, and I have the 810 in my GZ. Thought I'd try the other as it's listed as a free air design, might work better in an pin cab. I wouldn't say I can really tell a difference, both sound fine.

JBL 8" Car Audio Subwoofer https://a.co/d/5eORTmv

Install done! Challenging, but i made it! Now i need to play with settings.

Is it just the eq i need to do?

Im at 8ohm backbox and cab

As for the ground loop, do i have to connect it right after the dayton amp or at the pinsound cn5 to stero line out?

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My new JB Premium has a very crackly sound, so I decided to get the speaker light kit and upgrade the backbox to 5.25".
I just got the standard Kenwood ones (I know I know, they are crap, but it's JB sound from 60 years ago and not a rock concert, so they should suffice and it's affordable).

I installed the lights and was playing without the backbox speakers because they won't come until this evening.
It turns out it's the cabinet speaker that emits the majority of the crackly distorted sound.

I need some help to fix that, ideally with a drop-in replacement. I don't need an amp - the machines run typically only on volume level 5 or 6, I just want no gramophone-esque or clipping distortion.

I found a link earlier in this thread to a lowpass filter: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D9KHZ2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1
would that help?
Or should I get another speaker instead, or both?

As said, if I can get a drop-in replacement that would be ideal and I don't want to spend $200 on a speaker that is not exercised above 5% of what it can do either.
I've seen some 8" ceiling full-range speakers. OR should I go with a dedicated woofer (I suspect they are larger in size) and the lowpass filter?

Thanks for the help!

Edit:
Amazon suggested these subwoofer on the LP filter page:
https://smile.amazon.com/Hifonics-Brutus-Shallow-Subwoofer-400W/dp/B079CHVTPX/ref=psdc_1294866011_t5_B00I9TSXKI
https://smile.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-CXX8-Car-Subwoofer/dp/B00I9TSXKI/ref=pd_bxgy_vft_none_img_sccl_1/145-4650186-5603446

They are in a price range that's suitable for me.

So if i get that right it's actually not the higher frequencies but the low ones that trip up the cabinet speaker. So a LP filter won't do squat.

The speakers that i linked in the previous post, would they be able to handle that or are they still too small / crappy?
Or in other words, what, in your opinion, would be the minimal viable product? $50, $60 range maybe? Or is there nothing that will help in that range?
Thank you for your help!
And thank you for the tip with the EQ. I'll give that a shot if the cabinet speaker replacement route won't pan out!

Hey all quick question, I have a spare set of tower speakers that I thought of connecting to my Rush Pro. I ordered that CN5 connector from France that was mentioned earlier in this thread but was wondering, would one of those small amps people typically link to be enough to power such speakers? I do have a spare Denon A/V receiver as well and was gonna use that, but if a small amp would work just as well then that'd be fine.

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I use the Skar for a cheap replacement that helps a lot:
Skar Audio FSX8-8 8" https://a.co/d/0a790fl

This one also has been recommended:
https://www.pinballlife.com/boom-boom-3000-8-speaker-upgrade-for-spike-spike-2-machines.html

Or the JBL l:
JBL Stage810 - 8" https://a.co/d/76EMSjH

Awesome, thank you for the recommendation!
I may try the pinball life one for the simple reason that i can put more crap into the order, need light sockets and such stuff and don't want to pay shipping for like 20$ worth of parts.

Yes.

Thanks, then I’ll start with a surround sound system first to improve the sound over the Pro’s speakers .... it can’t be any worse. Found a nice freebie surround sound system on Craigslist last year so might as well use it. CN5 cable from France should be here next week.

Any suggestions for the BB & cabinet for the stern equalizer 10 settings?

Has anyone by chance made Spike2 speaker adapters for 6.5 inch speakers? I realize they'd have to be offset from center and overhang on the inside, but I found some unused 6.5 inch Dual 2-ways at a thrift store for so cheap that I just had to try!

Check post #62

For those curious about delivery time of the Pinsound CN5 line out connector from France, I ordered it on Jan 12 and it just arrived today Jan 19, very quick.

A quick shout out to schwts for messaging me so quick with the link. I was able to get a copy of the brackets printed before boarding a plane home.

Also, of course pete_d for all the work put into the design and for sharing the files.

I've a few things to install over the coming weeks so hopefully it wont be long before I get to hear the new speakers.

I was going the post the same.... no worries with shipping from France and you get French candies too !!!! Ordered my CN5 cables late last Thursday night the 12th so shipped on Friday and got my cables yesterday the 19th too.

Nevermind. I see that info is included in the 3d model link.

You can do it, be the 1st. Be that Pioneer and Speaker to us of how to do it. We'll thank you verymuch DanQ. 'pun intended'

I had a Bluetooth Transmitter/ Receiver that was used on a old TV (2015) . TV was given to a niece few years ago but I kept the Bluetooth transmitter.

Installed it in my Godzilla and paired it to my JBL Charge4. It also paired to the Dayton amplifier in my Aerosmith automatic. So I then turned off the Charge4. I may do all my pins this way now and Bluetooth to a Old Home Stereo Receiver that has Bluetooth.

Question? Can I plug the USB cord from Transmitter in to USB on main board in cabinet next to USB wifi adapter?

Is this a game changer, after I bought 4 amplifiers (only installed 1), 4 JBL Stage 810 subwoofers and 4 pairs of speakers.

Here's a transmitter on Amazon, not the one I have because it's been discontinued.
UGREEN Bluetooth 5.1 Transmitter Receiver 2 in 1 Wireless USB Bluetooth Adapter Built-in Microphone 3.5mm Audio Bluetooth Dongle Driver Free for TV, Home Stereo, Car Stereo, Headphones, Speakers, PC https://a.co/d/fqrJ8ts

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Question? Can I plug the USB cord from Transmitter in to USB on main board in cabinet next to USB wifi adapter?

Answer: Yes

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Hi,

I recently got a Rush Pro and looking to upgrade the audio and have found this DIY topic were helpful and I have a couple questions/clarifications, and these might be newbie audiophile ones but I have no home entertainment, etc. experience. I have the Pinsound CN5 cable and have hooked the L/R stereo output jack to a donated home theater surround sound system which worked but just doesn't have the power to produce loud audio so I'm moving on and replacing it.

Question is I read in posts from 10 months ago that the Pinsound CN5 cable had issues with the subwoofer output cable that didn't produce a good/loud enough signal to connect to a powered subwoofer and asking if this is still the case? I've read posts where a small amplifier like a Fosi Audio BT20A was used to drive L and R speakers but these don't have a subwoofer output yet there was a powered subwoofer also hooked up. Do you use the cabinet speaker's leads as the input for the powered subwoofer in this case?

I also read where you shouldn't have your head speakers hooked up when using the CN5 cable? Is this because you could do damage to the Spike 2 audio board? Or does the Spike 2 audio board drive a signal that is shared with the head speakers and CN5 cable? I'd like to keep using the head speakers as they face you when playing but don't want to damage anything by keeping them hooked up when using the CN5 cable. What is the best way to keep using your head speakers? Do you need to wire them to an auxiliary amp? These questions may be mute if I go with this Sony unit but I'd still like to know as I have a The Munsters that I'd like to upgrade the audio on. I've found a Sony STR-DG810 6.1 Channel Home Theatre Receiver at the local farmers/vendors market that I think will produce good sound. The specs say it is 100 watts x 6 into 8 ohms. It has 6 speaker outputs with RCA jacks plus a 7th with the clamp style connectors so if I go this route, then I assume I can use 2 of the speaker outputs for the head speakers and other speaker outputs for auxiliary speakers. It also has a signal jack subwoofer output for a powered subwoofer. The input jacks don't have a dedicate "aux" left and right inputs that I've seen on other amps but have 1 set of audio input jacks labeled as "Super Audio CD player or CD player, etc." so I assume this will accept the Spike 2 CN5 audio signal?

Thanks,

David

I use the CN5 cable and both of it's outputs, one goes directly to my subwoofer, the other to a Fosil BT20A which then outputs to some tower speakers. My sub is powered and has it's own amp along with controls to set its output level, so having the sub cable go directly from the CN5 connector to the sub works great, plenty of power, I actually have it set to maybe 40% of it's power. The tower speakers have no internal amp, hence first to the Fosil, then to the speakers.

I don't know if you have to unplug the internal speakers but I ended up unplugging them all, both head and the single cabinet speaker because I found it sounded worse with them still active. I find I get far better audio separation with the head speakers disconnected. I also disabled the internal eq (an option in the Stern audio menu) which also helped sound quality. I was concerned that maybe it would sound odd with the tower speakers being lower down than the speaker in the head, but that wasn't the case at all at least to my ears.

I originally thought about using a spare a/v receiver as well but turns out that little Fosil can power the tower speakers without issue, in fact it remains cool after being in use for a while. Side bonus is that it's tiny and power on automatically with the game.

So to summarize:

CN5 Subwoofer cable -> Sub woofer
CN5 L/R cable -> Fosil amp -> Tower speakers

Sounds nice and plenty loud on my end. The only thing that confused me is that the Stern internal amp still works, like the games volume control still works, implying that the Stern amp is still part of the audio chain so I guess that means less than ideal audio. I thought the CN5 was a pre-out so it would be unamplified and just send a pure signal to the external amps but that doesn't seem to be the case.
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I got the pinsound cable about 2 months ago and just tested it there now.
The sub out seems to work fine on my one.

Sidebar: anyone have a rec for a replacement speaker for a classic stern (Seawitch). Obviously not looking for hi-fi, just need a replacement and not sure what would be a good fit.