(Topic ID: 307852)

Improving Sound Quality - The DIY Route

By davegauth

2 years ago


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    There are 1,819 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 37.
    #751 1 year ago

    On Metallica Pro LED, can you totally bypass the amp on the soundboard and add external amp? It appears my sound board is bad and the game squeals and makes a lot of noise. Anyone have thoughts on my issue?

    #752 1 year ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    I've used sex bolts for this purpose. Basically it is an extended nut that allows using taller speaker with the stock cabinet bolts. Bolt Depot is a great place to buy hardware cheap by the way.
    https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts_Combo_truss_head_Zinc_plated_steel_Coarse_(standard)_thread_3_16_barrel_(6-32_thread).aspx?Selected=14288[quoted image]

    Do these bolts make the JBL work with no other modifications?

    #753 1 year ago
    Quoted from mrossman5:

    Do these bolts make the JBL work with no other modifications?

    It should. I ended up tapping bolts out and replacing with longer ones it was much easier than I expected,just a light tap and they popped right out.

    #754 1 year ago
    Quoted from Puffdanny:

    It should. I ended up tapping bolts out and replacing with longer ones it was much easier than I expected,just a light tap and they popped right out.

    Great, will try this. Thank you!

    #755 1 year ago

    Bought the LE Kenwood 5.25 with the speaker light for LZ pro. How do you connect the speakers back up with the connector?

    #756 1 year ago
    Quoted from livetowin:

    Bought the LE Kenwood 5.25 with the speaker light for LZ pro. How do you connect the speakers back up with the connector?

    I use the wires/connector from the original speakers. Unsolder from old and solder onto new... make sure to keep the +/- polarity correct.

    #757 1 year ago
    Quoted from livetowin:

    Bought the LE Kenwood 5.25 with the speaker light for LZ pro. How do you connect the speakers back up with the connector?

    I did this on all my Spike 2 games. Reuse the old connectors (desolder/solder). Added a Goldwood GW-8024 subwoofer to replace the stock unit, and they sound fantastic. Tweek the audio EQ similar to the curves published about 10 posts back, and you're good to go. Stock amp seems to be fine for me. Love the upgrade, night and day on my Rush, JP, and Mando. Looks fantastic, too. Remove the foam speaker grills; the Kenwoods look classy behind the bare Stern frames.

    A tiny bit of help: the AC power connector for the speaker lights is found underneath the metal shield in the backbox lower right corner. This isn't well explained in the installation instructions. Remove 2 nuts to remove the cover; you'll find the matching plug covered by an orange plug - that's where you attached the speaker light power cord.

    #758 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    A tiny bit of help: the AC power connector for the speaker lights is found underneath the metal shield in the backbox lower right corner. This isn't well explained in the installation instructions. Remove 2 nuts to remove the cover; you'll find the matching plug covered by an orange plug - that's where you attached the speaker light power cord.

    How is it not well explained?

    http://www.speakerlightkits.com/High-Power-Connection-North-America-(2).html

    Please point out what is even the least bit confusing or unclean with that explanation on how to connect the power cable and I will look into changing things.

    Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

    #759 1 year ago
    Quoted from DugFreez:

    How is it not well explained?

    That's the first I've seen that page.

    Quoted from DugFreez:

    Please point out what is even the least bit confusing or unclean with that explanation on how to connect the power cable and I will look into changing things.

    Sure. Happy to show you the source of my confusion. The instruction manual for the type 13 kit I ordered (http://www.speakerlightkits.com/Deluxe-5.25-SPIKE-2-Install.html) the only reference at all to power connection at that point in the instructions says:

    "The rest of the connection are pretty straight forward and clearly shown and described in the picture above."

    Where the "picture above" is given as shown. There's no bill validator plug anywhere in this picture. This was so confusing to me, that I spent about 45 mintues googling, searching, and ultimately watched a Youtube video that showed where the "bill validator plug" actually was.

    My suggestion: move the link you posted (on where the validator plug is) to this point in your instructions. I had no idea you had a separate link for finding the plug buried in the front page, preamble portion of the document. I only found it re-reading it for this post.

    And to be clear, it's a lovely kit. I've ordered a total of 4 of these, quite happy with both the lights and mounting plates.
    Screen Shot 2022-06-10 at 8.58.35 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-06-10 at 8.58.35 PM (resized).jpg

    #760 1 year ago

    Updated the speakers in my WPC95 TotAN, needed a matching larger adapter for the right side so I 3D printed one, only had white PLA so then painted it black, the JBL GX502’s sound very clear.

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    #761 1 year ago

    Getting ready to test a new amp. This one was sent to me by a Pinside member to compare to the previous amps.

    What makes this one interesting is it uses a different amp chip set, and is rated for significantly more power output.

    I also had to make a new speaker wiring harness and took a little time to make it nice with wrap and all the ends are tin'd.

    I'll update in a couple days with results of the testing.

    20220610_213957 (resized).jpg20220610_213957 (resized).jpg
    #762 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    That's the first I've seen that page.

    Sure. Happy to show you the source of my confusion. The instruction manual for the type 13 kit I ordered (http://www.speakerlightkits.com/Deluxe-5.25-SPIKE-2-Install.html) the only reference at all to power connection at that point in the instructions says:
    "The rest of the connection are pretty straight forward and clearly shown and described in the picture above."
    Where the "picture above" is given as shown. There's no bill validator plug anywhere in this picture. This was so confusing to me, that I spent about 45 mintues googling, searching, and ultimately watched a Youtube video that showed where the "bill validator plug" actually was.
    My suggestion: move the link you posted (on where the validator plug is) to this point in your instructions. I had no idea you had a separate link for finding the plug buried in the front page, preamble portion of the document. I only found it re-reading it for this post.
    And to be clear, it's a lovely kit. I've ordered a total of 4 of these, quite happy with both the lights and mounting plates.
    [quoted image]

    I like Doug's kits as well! In his defense... the instruction manual in the link you provided starts out at the top of the page by discussing the power connection and has the link to the power connection install document that Doug linked to above.

    #763 1 year ago

    Thanks to OP and everyone else for all this great content. Ive got my first pin GZ on the way and I've gone ahead and ordered some open box kicker csc4 and a renewed jbl 810 for a lower priced week 1 upgrade, I'm sure I'll be fine for me for this pin

    Other than changing settings to 4 ohm, any other setting changes recommended, equalizer, etc?

    Edit: found some settings OP posted in #62 for this set up, I'll start there

    #764 1 year ago

    Let's see the other amp on the testing block....

    Except I only paid $17 for it...

    If you want to see how you can pay $400 for the same made in the USA amp (which is really made in China) check out post #435 in this thread.

    What are my thoughts?.. No idea yet, have to put it through the standard paces all the others went through for a good comparison.

    I have 2 heavy hitters after this one. But I am.going to try to get this one through first. The 2 big guns are going to need the big 36v 10 amp juice.

    20220611_181825 (resized).jpg20220611_181825 (resized).jpg
    #765 1 year ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    Thanks to OP and everyone else for all this great content. Ive got my first pin GZ on the way and I've gone ahead and ordered some open box kicker csc4 and a renewed jbl 810 for a lower priced week 1 upgrade, I'm sure I'll be fine for me for this pin
    Other than changing settings to 4 ohm, any other setting changes recommended, equalizer, etc?
    Edit: found some settings OP posted in #62 for this set up, I'll start there

    Keep your setting at 8ohm.

    Go back to page 1 or 2 and there will be some pics of some pics of settings to start from.

    #766 1 year ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Keep your setting at 8ohm.
    Go back to page 1 or 2 and there will be some pics of some pics of settings to start from.

    Backbox and cabinet? I did find a post where you had the 4" kickers at 4ohm and the 8" jbl at 8ohm. Do you like both at 8 ohm now?

    #767 1 year ago

    Yeah- with so much going on I keep mixing it up. The way Stern uses that setting is not exactly normal.

    To simplify the effect - Keep this is mind.

    The 8ohm setting will increase the volume for that output. Use this as the setting guide:

    8ohm - more power
    4ohm - less power

    The setting has nothing to do with actual OHMs going to the speaker or being drawn from the amp. So don't worry about matching the speakers to the setting etc.

    You want as much juice going to the sub as you can - So always set cabinet to 8 ohms.

    The backbox can be a toss up. If you want more juice set it to 8ohm. want less set to 4ohm. Flavor based on your liking and sound you are getting from your speakers etc.

    Hope that clears up anything I may have typed and messed up before.

    #768 1 year ago
    Quoted from mrossman5:

    Do these bolts make the JBL work with no other modifications?

    Can confirm that the JBL Stage 810 is a drop in replacement with the “sex bolts”. Incredibly easy and absolutely worth it.

    This may sound dumb, but I can’t seem to find the EQ settings in my GZ pro. I have a few frequency options but nothing like the EQ shown in the recommended settings post.

    #769 1 year ago
    Quoted from mrossman5:

    Do these bolts make the JBL work with no other modifications?

    Dupe Post

    #770 1 year ago
    Quoted from mrossman5:

    Can confirm that the JBL Stage 810 is a drop in replacement with the “sex bolts”. Incredibly easy and absolutely worth it.
    This may sound dumb, but I can’t seem to find the EQ settings in my GZ pro. I have a few frequency options but nothing like the EQ shown in the recommended settings post.

    Yeah I couldn’t find it either. Hoping someone here can post it for us!

    #771 1 year ago
    Quoted from mrossman5:

    I have a few frequency options but nothing like the EQ shown in the recommended settings post.

    Quoted from CashMoney:

    Yeah I couldn’t find it either. Hoping someone here can post it for us!

    I think it's under Utilities - Volume Settings, change the High/Low Shelf setting to 10 Band EQ.

    #772 1 year ago
    Quoted from awesome1:

    I think it's under Utilities - Volume Settings, change the High/Low Shelf setting to 10 Band EQ.

    Utilities.

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    #773 1 year ago
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    #774 1 year ago
    Quoted from awesome1:

    change the High/Low Shelf setting to 10 Band EQ

    This was the trick, thank you.

    #775 1 year ago
    Quoted from mrossman5:

    Can confirm that the JBL Stage 810 is a drop in replacement with the “sex bolts”. Incredibly easy and absolutely worth it.

    I’m about to install my JBL. Do you have a link to the correct size/length bolts?

    #776 1 year ago
    Quoted from ray-dude:

    I’m about to install my JBL. Do you have a link to the correct size/length bolts?

    Sure, here is the link. All credit goes to John_I for finding these.

    https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts_Combo_truss_head_Zinc_plated_steel_Coarse_(standard)_thread_3_16_barrel_(6-32_thread).aspx?Selected=14288

    #778 1 year ago

    Amp Review time - This is for the $20 made in China amplifier board available from AliExpress, Ebay, Amazon, and Parts Express. This Amplifier doesn't' have a definitive brand name associated with it, which is why I'm just calling it the made in China amp(even thought they have all been made in China). It's pretty much the cheapest amp available for DIY projects, bluetooth speakers, etc. It can also be found re-branded by many other manufacturers of audio upgrades....

    I purchased mine for $17 from Ali Express.(It's listed at $13.50 right now) But you can find it available on Ebay for about $25, Amazon for $28, Parts Express for $40. You can also find this amp for $400, allegedly made in America too.... See post 435 in this thread. Link to Ali-Express and Ebay are somewhere around post #440 for reference.

    Note - This amp does have Bluetooth, it does NOT come with a power supply.

    This amp, comes raw, just like you see in the pictures. You will need to make a case, and or mount it inside your cabinet. It's advertised as 2x50 watts 1 x 100 watts using the same TPA3116 shipset as all the previous amps. It has 1 6800 uF capacitor which is real nice to see. You would think it had the ability to deliver the power, but it turns out to be the lowest actual output mini amps thus far.

    Clamp testing the wattage shows it is consistently putting out about 12 watts on the 4ohm load Sub Channel. This is at max volume, max bass using the same testing criteria as all the other amps have gone through. The amplifier didn't hit any protection limits at max volume, which I found odd. I stepped up the power supply from the 24v 4.5amp testing supply - to the 24v 6.5amp supply thinking maybe the amp had some more to give - but it didn't.

    On the plus side, the L+R channels sounded pretty decent and had waaaay more power than needed as they easily overpowered the subwoofer output. One thing that made it nice was the included "All Frequency Normal" switch used on the L+R channels. This appears to be a way of letting the user choose if they want a high pass filter on the L+R channels. You will most likely want this off(switch moved towards the center of the board) to give you more bass and to help make up for the anemic sub woofer output. I also liked, the L+R channel has it's own volume control. This is also the only way to bring the volume of the backbox speakers down enough to match the subwoofer output.

    To be fair - I personally do not like high pass filters built into any of these mini amps. I feel the "Good" speakers I've been playing with can handle all the power these TPA3116 based mini amps can muster.

    When plugged into the pin, there was definitely line noise that could be heard. This was easily cleaned up with a cheap ground loop isolator.

    Some more cons:
    - When we peak under the heatsink, we can see that the amp chips are not actual Texas Instrument TPA3116 chips. They appear to be clones or knockoffs. The size and shape are not consistent, and there is no Texas Instrument branding on them. This would also explain why we are not getting the output we would be expecting from this chipset.
    - There is NO power button. That's right..... To turn it on and off you will need to wire this into the switch on the pin for 1 button use. For some, it's no big deal - for others, it could be a deal breaker.
    - Bluetooth has very limited range. While testing I had the amp outside the cabinet - bluetooth connection would be lost when I went around the corner and into the kitchen. So 20 feet maybe and 1 wall = dropped connection. If you are going to run this inside your cabinet, the bluetooth feature may or may not work at all for you.
    - Another Bluetooth issue to note. Once you connect to it with bluetooth you can not switch to the line in audio source. You have to go into your phone to disconnect it, only then can you press and hold the switch to change the source on the amp.

    My overall thoughts: This is a decent little amp for $20. It will be a step up from the stock Stern Amp. If you know what you are doing and have the tools and parts it can be a cheap and fast way to boost the output of your pin. (Don't use this with the stock speakers) However; if this is your first project type thing - the level of work required to add a power supply and wire it into the pins power switch takes away most of it's benefits.

    Would I use this on any of my pins? Simple answer - No. Though I like the sound from the L+R channels, and like the high pass filter on/off feature - the sub channel is way to low for my taste. Combine that with the work required to install it and it's just not something I would consider based on other options available. Your mileage may vary.... but probably not by much....

    Electronic erotica below - knobs removed
    20220503_173654 (resized).jpg20220503_173654 (resized).jpg20220612_162229 (resized).jpg20220612_162229 (resized).jpg

    #779 1 year ago

    Dave, put your penultimate paragraph at the beginning of the post.

    TL:DR: don’t bother.

    #780 1 year ago
    Quoted from Black_Knight:

    Dave, put your penultimate paragraph at the beginning of the post.
    TL:DR: don’t bother.

    Being serious - That probably would be a better format. I'll switch it around for next reviews and see if it flows better. Ty for the tip.

    #781 1 year ago

    Great thread! Gonna start tinkering with my Stern speakers. Thanks!

    1 week later
    #782 1 year ago

    I'm going to do a couple of random posts on power supplies.

    These are just intended to help people unpack these things so will not seem like rocket science to anyone.

    What is a power supply - simple answer it's what takes the power coming from your wall and turns it into the flavor your device needs in order to run properly.

    There are different types of power supplies, the most common is the brick type. It's signature is the black brick appearance with cords attached. They plug into the wall and then plug into your device with a round/barrel connector. You most likely have a bunch laying around your house. A power brick is very convenient to use - doesn't require mounting or seperan wires.

    Then there are industrial power supplies. These are generally just metal boxes designed to be used inside of bigger enclosures of some kind. You'll find these inside your pinball machine, 3D printer, and other places. The raw industrial look of these, and the need to source and connect the wall and device plug wires, can be very intimidating to most. But they are doing the same exact thing as the power bricks you use on a daily basis.

    Is one better than the other?
    1 - Industrial supplies generally are of a better quality overall which helps them supply cleaner and more consistent power.
    2 - Industrial supplies have more capacities and outputs to choose from.(Voltage and Amps)

    But - keep in mind we are using these on mini-amplifiers. Mini amps do not require a ton of power as their output are limited to begin with. Mini amps are not exactly HiFi equipment either. If your mini amp came with a brick type power supply, use it - don't waste your time looking for an industrial supply. The only time you should consider an industrial supply is if your amp didn't come with its own supply, yiu dont have one laying around the house to repurpose, and/or you need more power or something unique for the amp you want to run. e.g. Car amplifier, or much larger amplifier.

    Go back to post #392 for a detailed writeup on how to pick your power supply - which talks about voltage, amps, and wattage.

    Seen in the picture are 3 power supplies.
    (left to right)
    - Standard brick (24v x 4.5amps = 108watts)
    - Industrial supply (24v x 4.5amps = 108watts)
    Both of the above supplies have the same specs and are perfectly suited for running the mini-amps running the TPA3116 amp chips.

    - Industrial supply(36v x 9.7amps = 349watts)
    This power supply is for running an amplifier which is much bigger than the standard mini amps we've looked at thus far. I'll be showing some larger amplifiers which will use this supply soon.

    Again - go back and read post#392 for how to understand the specs and determine what you need. It's really easy.

    I added a picture of the industrial supply wired up. All it is is a power wire going to the wall and a wire going to the device(amp). It's pretty easy, and you can see it's no different than a brick power supply in terms of its wires.

    20220619_121419 (resized).jpg20220619_121419 (resized).jpg

    20220619_134022 (resized).jpg20220619_134022 (resized).jpg
    #783 1 year ago

    Just a behind the scenes picture...

    Should have this new amp finished and written up in the next few days.

    20220619_143214 (resized).jpg20220619_143214 (resized).jpg
    #784 1 year ago

    Hi,
    Does anyone know which crimp I need for the speaker plug wire for an Iron Maiden premium . I want to replace the cable which is divided in two with one long cable. Is it awg 18?
    Best regards and thanks
    Max

    5B2B438B-2BF2-45AA-8C9D-6B6D29AF32F4 (resized).jpeg5B2B438B-2BF2-45AA-8C9D-6B6D29AF32F4 (resized).jpegBE75420A-3510-47AA-98D4-8EB9AB7DFC4E (resized).jpegBE75420A-3510-47AA-98D4-8EB9AB7DFC4E (resized).jpeg
    #785 1 year ago
    Quoted from max_pinball:

    Hi,
    Does anyone know which crimp I need for the speaker plug wire for an Iron Maiden premium . I want to replace the cable which is divided in two with one long cable. Is it awg 18?
    Best regards and thanks
    Max
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    If you look at the insulation it might say what gauge it is. That said, it is most likely 18.

    Do you have a remval tool to take the connector out? If it is the round type molex connector (female) I can give you the part number in a while when I get home.

    #786 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    If you look at the insulation it might say what gauge it is. That said, it is most likely 18.
    Do you have a remval tool to take the connector out? If it is the round type molex connector (female) I can give you the part number in a while when I get home.

    Thanks for the answer . I‘m not at my machines so I can‘t look at the insulation right now . I don’t have a removal tool and I think I need the male connector for the speaker.
    Thanks for help . I really appreciate the help .

    #787 1 year ago

    Think it's 18 too.

    #788 1 year ago
    Quoted from max_pinball:

    Thanks for the answer . I‘m not at my machines so I can‘t look at the insulation right now . I don’t have a removal tool and I think I need the male connector for the speaker.
    Thanks for help . I really appreciate the help .

    female connector is part # 2091119
    https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0002091119/26390?s=N4IgTCBcDa4AwE4CMKEgLoF8g

    Male connector is:
    https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0002092116/1784873

    Just make sure these are what you need.

    These will work for either 18-22 AWG, however I always have bigger ones also available that interconnect with these. I use the bigger ones (14-18 awg) when I need to crimp 2 cables into one connector.

    #789 1 year ago

    I recently upgraded the audio on a new JP premium using the info on this thread which made things really easy. I created my own CN5 connector and 3D printed the speaker brackets for the backbox. I'm powering the amp from the service port since I use smart plugs to power my games.

    Here's what I used for reference:

    Amp (Fosi Audio BT30D): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7NJ4QN

    Backbox speakers (PYLE PL53BL Blue Label): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FNFIS6

    Cabinet Sub (Pyle PLPW8D): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JV7F4W

    Huge improvement over stock.

    #790 1 year ago

    I want to do my Iron Maiden and Led Zeppelin but not interested in running an amp as I do not blast my games, in fact, pkayed with medium to low volume.

    Wondering if I would still need an amp?

    I am looking for clearer, deeper and crisp sound, not louder.

    Any tips?

    #791 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I want to do my Iron Maiden and Led Zeppelin but not interested in running an amp as I do not blast my games, in fact, pkayed with medium to low volume.
    Wondering if I would still need an amp?
    I am looking for clearer, deeper and crisp sound, not louder.
    Any tips?

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route#post-6711737
    "With this setup we are still 100% bolt in. For about $115ish dollars invested it's an incredible bang for the buck improvement. Many people could stop here and be really happy."

    I just did this on my godzilla, with the same speakers he had there. TBH I'm not blown away, but I am not an audiophile so not the best person to ask. It does sound a bit better. The bass is nice.

    Doesn't hurt anything to try this, and if you feel you still need an amp, then add it after.

    #792 1 year ago

    I upgraded our Rush, Mando, and JP to 5.25” speakers (with the Speakerlights adapters) and a better 8” subwoofer. It does make a noticeable difference, quite a bit. I’m happy with this solution using the stock amp. The only tricky part is the subwoofer requires a spacer to mount in the bottom of the cabinet. I 3D printed one. If you don’t have a printer, this may be more of a hassle. FYI.

    Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079SFC3P9
    Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ0S88
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    #793 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    I upgraded our Rush, Mando, and JP to 5.25” speakers (with the Speakerlights adapters) and a better 8” subwoofer. It does make a noticeable difference, quite a bit. I’m happy with this solution using the stock amp. The only tricky part is the subwoofer requires a spacer to mount in the bottom of the cabinet. I 3D printed one. If you don’t have a printer, this may be more of a hassle. FYI.
    Speakers: amazon.com link »
    Subwoofer: amazon.com link »
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Why did you need a spacer for the sub? I did not use one for my JBL 810. I did move the plastic mesh to the bottom side of the cabinet (I had to replace bolts anyway, so just added a washer to hold mesh on, so the speaker is still protected, but not impeded by the mesh. Maybe your spacer is for that purpose?

    #794 1 year ago

    The diaphragm on my subwoofer flexes beyond the plane on which is mounts. The spacer allows for full-range motion for the speaker. Jersey Jack games use a similar spacer just for this purpose. Moving the mesh to the bottom pretty much does the same thing, allowing full-range movement. I wanted to retain the interior mesh for cosmetics. And, cats.

    #795 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I want to do my Iron Maiden and Led Zeppelin but not interested in running an amp as I do not blast my games, in fact, pkayed with medium to low volume.
    Wondering if I would still need an amp?
    I am looking for clearer, deeper and crisp sound, not louder.
    Any tips?

    I upgraded the back box to the 5.25 kickers and the cab to the 8" jbl and with a powered 10" external sub you would be an idiot not to be happy. I'm an idiot so I'm adding a beefy amp but really no need to except I plan to use the Bluetooth on the amp to use my pin as my jukebox when it's not being played.

    #796 1 year ago

    Quick question: Is there any reason why I shouldn't run 5v LEDs for speaker lights off the USB power on the Spike 2 CPU board?

    The set I am using are 5VDC at .0416 W/LED. I have 38 LEDs for the 2 speakers, so it would pull 1.58 Watts at approximately 0.316 Amps so it should be within design spec for USB at 5V 0.5 Amps

    #797 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    The diaphragm on my subwoofer flexes beyond the plane on which is mounts. The spacer allows for full-range motion for the speaker. Jersey Jack games use a similar spacer just for this purpose. Moving the mesh to the bottom pretty much does the same thing, allowing full-range movement. I wanted to retain the interior mesh for cosmetics. And, cats.

    You can also just remove the mesh entirely. This saves you from having to use the spacer.

    #798 1 year ago

    Use of a spacer on a subwoofer - depends on the subwoofer you choose to use.

    Some will have a mounting surface capable of being face mounted, some will not.

    This is as simple as looking at the sub itself. Does it have a continuous gasket around the outside edge of the speaker? If so, odds are high it can be face mounted. Like the JBL810 If it does not, then you are probably going to need a spacer of some sort. See Post #739 for a good example of a spacer being required.

    Caveats:
    #1 - The speaker movement in and out is called excursion. The more power you run the bigger the excursion distance. Which means you may need a bigger spacer if you are running lots of power.
    #2 - The stock speaker hole that Stern cuts into the cabinets is a bit undersize for an 8" sub. Meaning, the hole is smaller than the front suspension on the speaker. If you are running lots of power and getting a high amount of excursion(See #1) then you may want to ensure the edge of the suspension is not contacting the edge of the cutout. If so, add a spacer, or take a router and go break the inside edge of the speaker cutout.
    #3 - Remove and throw away the stock plastic mesh. Even if you are running the stock Stern speaker.

    Before anyone panics------ it's not likely you are running big power and have nothing to worry about. The Stern Amp, the barely better pinwoofer amp, and all the mini amps reviewed thus far do not produce enough power to make excursion something you need to lose sleep over.

    #799 1 year ago

    Greetings everyone!

    We wanted to take a moment and provide some information in a factual context since we were mentioned.

    For many applications a mounting ring with stand-off is not required.

    However, for the PinWoofer amp and cabinet speaker, a ring is vital since our linear excursion is ~4.75mm (~3/16in) and our in-house designed amplifier will test the excursion limits of this 2Ohm DVC speaker. Our injection molded ring provides about twice what is needed in terms of dwell and guarantees that you will not prematurely wear out the surround due to friction and avoids the audible "thud" you'll hear from the cone striking the cabinet floor.

    You'll also notice that the speaker sensitivity is 91.5dB which is super-efficient and would otherwise make the wear-out effects of excursion worse. (i.e., this thing pumps.)

    OK, just wanted to share some information on excursion, rings and need.

    Thanks for your attention and have a great day!

    PW-DVC-4X2 (resized).jpgPW-DVC-4X2 (resized).jpg

    #800 1 year ago

    Next amp review will be posted by tomorrow night, maybe even this evening if I can get to it.

    Anyone ever see Venom 2 - the scene where Mrs Chen is taken over by Venom. Dan says I'm still standing right here, and Venom says......

    Cracks me up every time I'm reminded of it....

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