Los Angeles, CA
I'm in! Had the original IM, sold it about 3 years ago...been kinda sorta missing it, but not enough to buy one for what they were selling for. VE announced, I was in. Like the price, cab decals, new backbox, LEDs from the factory.
(Topic ID: 95926)
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Quoted from Grinder901:Yes you can use both the ramp protector and the drain fix together. No problem
You might not even need the drain fix. They changed where the ramp flap was screwed in in soon after the first batch went out...they moved it by like a cm to the right - so when a ball came back, it hit off the post and veered left. Hopefully they'll stick to that revision with these new ones...if so, you won't need a drain fix.
Quoted from BLACK_ROSE:I liked the Orange Plasma display like I had better than the Red Led .. JMO , i guess it will be like a case of Flat beer , i'll get use to it .. Nicely Speak-n
Red is a prominent IM color, though...so for me, a red DMD is perfect. 
Quoted from Grinder901:I agree. Red is the right color. Might upgrade to a color DMD though. Do they make DMDs with multiple colors or are they single color only?
www.colordmd.com
IM will always be monochrome but you can do the "rainbow effect" w/ ColorDMD now.
Quoted from usandthem:Maybe the red ones are brighter than I thought. The only Stern with a LED DMD that I've had has been Hulk. And that was a green DMD that I felt was dimmer than I would like.
Yeah so - green isn't red. The red ones are bright.
Quoted from usandthem:Uh yes. I realize that.
I've seen that blue DMD and yes, it's plenty bright. It must just be the green. It just seem way more dim than any of the plasma DMD'd games that I've had, especially the Sterns.
Maybe it's the green they chose...a "dark" green vs. a brighter "lime" green...then couple that with the green filter - and it's just not bright as orange or red.
Quoted from rai:I will be 'in the club' soon.
Just watched the 2 movies the other day. Does the pin have callouts taken from the movies?
It's almost nothing but callouts from the movies.
Custom voices are "Random Military Guy" and Jarvis....everything else is movie pulls
Quoted from zucot:Pinballbrowser for the win.
I wish I knew how to use it...I'm a dum-dum ....I'd like to make a request though - if it's possible to rip new video & replace the old one, I'd love to see a new match sequence. There's a scene right at the start of Iron Man 3 where he's putting his new suit on...he says "I'm the best." ...then a piece of his suit hits him in the back and it all falls apart.
Quoted from oopsallberrys:just watched Iron Man 3 for the first time last night..... definitely the turd movie of the three
No way, IM2 is horrible. Loved 3!
Quoted from Grinder901:Dude what?
I submit exhibit A:
» YouTube video
Sooooo badass!!!!
IM2 has some cool scenes....those were all in the trailer & in the pin - so it's all good on the pin front...but as a film, it's completely dopey & the tone and pace is just way off. First one was great, 2 was Favreau phoning it in. Whiplash was a fundamentally stupid villain - Iron Man should be able to just fly above his head and blast him...whips have limited range, c'mon. 
3 had fresh blood with Shane Black behind the camera - it felt like a "real" movie again. Good villian, good 'fake out', great action, great humor... LOVED IT.
Quoted from Captain_Kirk:Yeah, 3 was an improvement over 2. Could care less that they took liberties with the Mandarin.
It's a Shane Black movie, and it shows.
Yeah, I don't even remotely care that they changed the Mandarin from the comics...ya know, the original Iron Man comics took place in the 60's and 70's ....they "changed" the movies to take place in the 2000's....oh no! Also - IM2 movie Whiplash is different than the various comic Whiplashes.
Quoted from Captain_Kirk:Yup. Stark wasn't in the suits, so they weren't as structurally sound.
Simple physics really.
Also it's set up right at the start of the movie - he's testing the new suit style that knows how to find him and attach piece by piece...it falls apart while he's testing it - and all the mayhem of the movie starts before he works the kinks out.
Quoted from rai:Nanny nation, we have become wussified by lawyers and fear of litigation.
No, people who are epileptic appreciate the warning. My girlfriend is epileptic - she recently went to see a play & even asked someone working there if the show had strobing flashing lights...they said "no"....she went to the show and it was strobe city - she almost had a seizure. A truthful warning on the door would have saved her the trouble. All video games have had epilepsy warnings in the manuals forever...I'm surprised it took pinball this long.
Quoted from ZenTron:Does anyone else think there should be an Iron Man VE(2014) added as a new game choice to add to our collection etc..?
No. If LE/Premiums are included together (due to the playfields being the same), then IM VE has no reason to have a separate entity.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Another post from an owner, showed only 300 being made. He had the number on his game.
Numbers on playfields generally don't mean anything.
Quoted from eggbert52:Neither do your comments
JK
DAAAAYYYUUUUUUUMMMNNN.
Quoted from metallik:Eh, it says pretty clearly #10/300. Don't see why they'd put that there, unless they ran 300 of them.
My Tron LE says #409 of 400 lol
Quoted from rai:where are you getting your modded figures?
They're the stock Hasbro toys and I'm modding them myself. I did it on my old game - just doin' it again!
Quoted from mtdouble:Can I purchase this?
Hooked makes this type of mod. He sells them. I'm DIY'ing it.
Quoted from dhalem:It doesn't matter. Someone will find a reason. The new backbox and trim, the playfield supports, something. People who paid $6500 for an original have to make themselves feel better somehow.
The original had the same playfield support pegs.
Quoted from metahugh:Nice! Always cool to see someone roll their own. I plan on learning to make my own myself.
It's not too hard....just need some raw LEDs, resistors, wire, heat shrink, solder...the confidence to drill a hole in the toy without f'ing it up.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:I always prefer screened cabinets to decals.
For years people complained about Stern's screened cabs due to the low rez "dotty" printing...the decals have solved that & the cabs look so much better...now we've got these foil printed decals - I haven't seen one in person yet, but everyone seems to love them. Goodbye screened cabs!
Quoted from BLACK_ROSE:lOOks gOod Joe ,, White rubber's 2 .. I'm with Ya on that !!
I'm doing transparent rubber & some red translucent superband mini post rubbers
Quoted from hank527:Very nice and I'm happy as an original owner that the newer toys do not look as good because the rest of the machine flat out blows the old one away in the new cabinet.
The War Machine and Whiplash figures are molded from the original toys...they pretty much look the same. If someone doesn't like them, $20 on eBay can get you the original Hasbro figures...they're very common.
Quoted from matt_assassin:Has the original Iron Man Whiplash had these 'whips' ? I understand your point of permanent glue is maybe not an good option. Think I will do the same when my machine will arrive. If someone else had tried something else with Whiplash, please share. Can't wait to get it !!
The original machine had whips, and they were glued/epoxied to his hands. There's a little hole in the front of the whiplash plastic - the front tip of one whip goes there so stays bent downward. The original whips were bendable...not sure if the repro whips are....my game isn't here yet! Wah!
Quoted from metallik:Poor poor Californians. It's nice to live near the spawn point... been playing for a week and a half already. Yea, gotta rub it in a little..
Eh, I'm patient.
Quoted from NightTrain:Two questions for anyone who has gotten their IMve yet.
1. Have you ditched the black rubbers and installed clear ones? If so, where do you get them? I think those would look awesome.
2. Have you been able to successfully install Whiplash's whips? I tried last night with hot glue and that is not working at all.
I have clear rubbers on a few games - they're awesome! I get them from Pinball Life ( but they're on vacation for a few more days)
Back when I had my old IM, I used a dab of silicon caulk to keep Whiplash's whips in hand. That stuff is my go-to whenever I need something stuck to something...LEDs that come loose, for example. Clear silicon caulk! Shit will never come loose, but you can pull it off if you need to.
Quoted from NightTrain:Do they sell a bulk set of the clear rubbers? Or do I need to hand pick them? I wish they left the website up while on vacation.
.
They're sold individually. I just hand pick them.
Quoted from ZenTron:rai, Are you familiar with a post where someone mentioned when IM went from 1.5x to 1.6x Stern reduced/compressed the DMD graphic quality due to ram limitations?
I might not be exact with my versions but i remember seeing this thread.
I'm sure it looks exactly the same. Just because they compressed it for memory doesn't mean it looks worse. IM DMD is full motion video rips from the movie - it's going to have that slightly chunky look because that's how video looks on a DMD. I had the original IM and some clips - like Whiplash building his weapon - always looked like ass.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Mine arrives tomorrow. Woot woot!
TurtleParty.gifQuoted from oopsallberrys:Maybe the LED makes it look worse than a plasma display?
Probably that and people just forgetting what it looked like. We've been spoiled by "clear" hand drawn dots for a few years now. Going back to FMV is a shock to the system.
Quoted from JoeJet:Did you make sure the game is properly leveled?? Should not have an issue otherwise.
Also make sure the flipper bats are gapped properly. Stern tends to tighten them too much, which can take some strength away from tough ramp shots.
Quoted from metallik:Left ramp has issues. At first I thought the ball was riding up the protector on the right and hitting a bracket, but now I suspect it's getting caught in the switch actuator, above the horizontal part it's supposed to hit, and being rejected that way. Need to get a slo-mo of a rejected shot but there's definitely something up.
Is your Monger lid even to the playfield? If the back left corner of the lid is lower than the wood, the ball could skip on that on the way to the ramp. That's how my original IM was until I evened out the lid.
Quoted from Grinder901:So true, my father in law came over last night with his girlfriend for dinner. He could not stop hitting the start button on the Iron Men. So funny to hear him cuss and get into it. I loved it.
I apologize if this has been covered already - but why do you have 2?! LOL I don't get it.
Quoted from NightTrain:Weird...It's supposed to...
Every so often it'll get cancelled out by another sound clip that was running when it started. This is pretty common in pinball sound, actually.
Quoted from ZenTron:maybe you can measure rod length
Quoted from pinball_customs:for my progressive ramp inserts, this is what I use:
100k - white
200k - yellow
300k - orange
400k - red
I really dig how the colour flows in that combo.
Yup, that's the move...cool to HOT. Kawidud's pic with blue in there doesn't seem right. Also I don't like coloring the Mark/Suit insert latter. The game is very color coordinated already....coloring that ladder confuses the visual language of the game. Those should stay white, like IM's arc reactor, IMO.
Quoted from pinball_customs:Totally.
Actually I have Marks 1 - 5 as warm white and Mark 6 is a cool white.
I'm thinking of leaving the Marks cool white and making the sheild inserts warm white.
Quoted from Grinder901:Well there is where I went off script. I alternated Mark I-V with red and yellow. I just love seeing that color combination but I keep the largest arc reactor Mark VI on a bright white.
I can see that working...at least it's Iron Man colors...makes sense!
Quoted from pinball_customs:Oh and for the love of god people, add a sub woofer to your game. You'll thank me later.
I've got my Best Buy clearance subs sitting here...got a lot of shit to set up this weekend!
Quoted from pinball_customs:Run them both if your sub has two inputs. Mine does, and I run Tron and IM on it at the same time with no probs.
Yup, that's what I'm gonna do. ST & IM to a one sub....Met & LOTR to another...etc.
Quoted from ZenTron:Can someone post a picture/s of how they wired sub to the game?
I assume the game has a sub already that is located on bottom of cabinet and we just connect wire from external sub to it?
thanks!
That's what I do. I alligator clip speaker wire to the + & - of the cabinet sub....then connect that to the + & - of the external sub. Done.
I just opened mine - only played a few games, cuz I have a lot of mods and stuff to do to it...but very impressed! I'm already much happier with the Vault Edition vs. my older one. The cabinet decals are sick...almost look like holograms. High rez printing + metallic foil = awesome. I got "lucky" and got one of the glassy smooth playfields. Looks awesome...my old IM had that slight ribbed wood look. I really like the LED/Incandescent lighting option. LED removes some of the strobing/pulsing FX as they're a bit choppier with LEDs...but honestly it doesn't bother me, so I think I'm going to keep it on incandescent, as I like the pulsing Whiplash flasher when his MB is ready. I'm pretty sure I'm noticing some new playfield light shows, too... when you launch, the playfield inserts sweep up toward the top...was that there before?
Anyway - very happy camper here. OK, back to modding!
Quoted from zucot:Thanks for the pic. My shaker board doesn't have those 3 pins for the ground connection.
Can you please show me exactly where the wires connected from the other connector on that green board and back to the cabinet?
I just realized I have the "old" shaker board, too ...I haven't put my shaker in yet - but will it not work with the old board?
Quoted from ZenTron:What number playfield is yours? Mine is 451 of 510.
thanks
#408 of 510*
Quoted from dhalem:Is the only difference on the new board the header on J3? That would be easy enough to add.
Nah, look at the pics on this page....lots of little differences...not sure what it all adds up to, but I'm gonna call Stern on Monday to see what the move is here.
Quoted from metahugh:I was able to procure a red translucent apron so I installed that along with a set of new apron decals.
Where did you get the decals? I just peeled mine off and put them on a red apron...but I wouldn't mind having the non-warning version of the decals.
As far as the lighting goes, I started to experiment with some warm whites for the GI....but honestly I really like the bulbs that came with the game....really makes everything pop for me. Just gonna keep it as is - maybe swap a few "right in my eyeline" ones out for frosted.
Quoted from BillySastard:^^^^Let us know what they say. Hopefully we can just buy a Rev A. board from PBL or something.
No need to call Stern. I just hooked up my shaker like I always do....works perfectly. No need for the J3 connector.
Yes, you're just seeing the difference between the plasma DMD and an LED DMD. The images coming from the CPU are the same…the display itself just makes them look a bit different. If you replaced the LED DMD with a ColorDMD it would look better, especially in Sigma mode.
Not sure you can use plasma DMDs in newer Sterns…at least not 'plug n play'
Quoted from RobT:Wow! That's a huge difference.
When McCune was here and played my IM he said he definitely noticed the difference in resolution between my original and his VE.
That must be some serious compression.
It's not compression. It's Plasma DMD vs. LED display
If you looked at a Plasma Tron vs. LED Tron, it would be the same thing.
Quoted from rai:I don't know, I have Plasma on SM and LED on Tron and to me, the resolution is
Tron >> SM > IM VE
It comes down to the source material & how it was ripped & "translated" to low res monochrome. Tron is probably the most perfect movie to rip for monochrome, since most of the backgrounds are just black - the characters pop very clearly due to this. Spider-Man is a lot of busy action, so monochrome DMD gets a bit murkier. Iron Man always looked like it had been ripped from a lower quality source or maybe with a different program. The "Iron Monger rises" scene, for instance, was always a bit "blocky", even with a plasma. Maybe it's due to IM using 3/4 of the DMD…technically that gives them even less resolution on an already low resolution display.
Quoted from RobT:I'm still wondering if there isn't something else going on here?
Yes, plasma is better than LED but come on, look at the difference! The VE version shouldn't be that much worse. There is almost no detail at all compared to the original.
Maybe a combination of bad compression with a lower resolution display?
Stern has compressed file sizes before and it never affects the graphics/video. IN fact, sometimes it improves the video…I don't remember which Stern game this was, but one update mentioned "compression" and the video was actually smoother/higher frame rate. This is a result of the display and only the display. Someone in one of these threads looked at the IM VE images in the pinball browser and confirmed they're exactly the same as the old one.
Quoted from RobT:If that's true, LED display's suck worse than I thought.
I think they lose some of the subtle shading, esp on Stern games which have more shades than WMS games…and the gridlines don't help, either. On a game like Ironman which already had some questionable movie rips, it certainly doesn't help. That being said, since i've been playing my new IM, the game is so f'ing fast I've barely been able to look up at the DMD lol. If the LED display starts to bug me, maybe I'll get a ColorDMD for it. Sigma mode might make it look better than any DMD.
Quoted from BShing:Overall I am pretty happy with my VE but the LED images are just horrible. I looked at video of the original IM and it seemed much better.
Fun fact. DMDs with video rips look better on Youtube than in person. The image is smaller in a video thus compressing & somewhat de-dotting it, making for a clearer image.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Can someone confirm if the IMVE uses the same shaker motor as Met and AC DC?
part # 502-5027-00-01
Yes. Confirmed.
Quoted from cosmokramer:I had my first ball stuck in crotch yesterday ... first time in 100 games
I've got 2 stuck on my crotch...but that's juts like, life, man.
Quoted from rai:How much does that cost? Is it the premium type lockdown bar?
You can get a Premium bar but then you also need the part it attaches to. I just got the latch bar done cuz honestly, the latches don't bother me at all.
Quoted from Grinder901:Any one notice unde the playfield how the GI have black tape around the solder. It's making it a pain in the ass to connect my whiplash figure.
It's heat shrink tubing…Stern's been doing that on their games for quite some time - but it started after original IM. Just slice it a bit with an x-acto knife and shimmy it down a bit.
Quick question for those who have IM OG or VE
If the ball is casually coming from the right orbit, like from the pops - it tends to wing the right sling instead of falling directly to the right flipper. How is it on your games? I honestly can't remember what it was like on my old IM….wondering if I should try tweaking the ball guide on that side or just leaving it alone. It's perfect on a flipper shot around the orbit - when I do that it always cleanly comes to the right flipper and I can combo it all day long.
Quoted from cwell:Mine was doing this out of the pops as well. I figured my floor was slanted so I raised the right side a bit till it made it to the flipper safely. I'm pretty sure it's level surface wise because if I rattle the center monger shot it falls straight down the middle. When I start Monger Multiball he drops the ball slightly to the left though so maybe I'm off a bit. Is Monger supposed to drain SDM?
No, that's correct. Monger's magnet drops to the left flipper (when it's just dropping….when it's flinging, it's a free for all)
Quoted from Pimp77:When it's slowly coming down the orbit I give a little bump to make it miss the sling. From a fast loop shot, no issues. Disclaimer: I have the OG.
Cool - seems like this is normal design, then.
Quoted from TimeBandit:I thought it has always been the player's responsibility to nudge away from the slings. Have I been too harsh on myself all this time?! I figured ST was rare in that design that allowed a clean orbit to the flippers.
Depends on the game….and sometimes can even vary from machine to machine.
Quoted from Kcbbq13:Stoked on my new game, tonight I was playing and both flippers just quit working. Any thoughts??? Thanks
Quit and then started again or quit for good? If they quit mid game and then were OK again - check the trough board connector. Push it in really snug...should solve the problem.
Quoted from Kcbbq13:Yes it stopped working after ball drained. Checked fuses, reseated trough pin, ran test on CLR (trough eject) everything showed fine on display but no eject... Yes coin door pin pulled for test. Any other thoughts on what to do next? Thanks
So the trough eject coil isn't working either? How many other coils have stopped working?
Quoted from Kcbbq13:None that I'm aware of??? Not really sure.
You said there was no eject. Am I reading that wrong?
Go into the coil test, and run them all. Are the bumpers working? Is War Machine's kickback working? Are the magnets working? Let's figure out if this is JUST the flippers or something else.
Quoted from Kcbbq13:Don't know what happened to last post, but not aware of any other coils not working...
OK - so it's just the flippers. Was it a one time thing, or do the flippers just not work at all now when you start a game?
Did you check the fuses under the playfield and on the board behind the translite?
Quoted from Deyanks98:I'm wondering the same thing as from the one video I watched the animations with the color LCD dispaly looked a million times better. The animations look so awful with the current display I rarely even look up to check them out.
You can put ColorDMD in "Sigma mode" which basically de-dots the dots and smooths them out - in a way, kinda sorta upping the resolution. It's like when you play an old 8-bit game on an emulator and it has different visual options to smooth things out.
Quoted from cwell:newb question. why not just sand the legs/rails and paint them red? Will the paint not hold up over time?
You probably could...but it would probably look shitty unless you know how to do it "professionally" like Refinery. It looks like a car finish & has sparkles in it!
Quoted from genex:Also added the Tournament button so my employees can have a work tournament on it and hopefully I can create some new players. r
Do the Tournament buttons now come with LEDs? Do you still have to solder diode on it? I used to be able to install Tournament buttons without an issue until Stern started to move to LED'd games...I think it was Transformers - I couldn't get the light on the Tournament button to work. After that, I haven't put Tourney buttons on my games - but I want to - looks better than the plugged hole!
Quoted from Grinder901:Can someone explain why my IM VE playfield has dimples all over the place and I can only find one on my IM OG? Bad clear job? Flippers too strong? Random bad luck?
New Stern playfields just seem to be dimple prone. Theories range from softer wood to clear not having enough time to cure…some games are more noticeable than others. Some dimple worse than others. I only noticed them when i had the translite off and the tube light was shining on the playfield.
Quoted from Grinder901:So I should have held off and waited to allow the playfield to cure? Damn. Is there a theory as to how long it takes?
Here's my new theory: Try not to let it bother you. Enjoy your game.
Quoted from Eskaybee:I just bought an nib met prem with a born on date of August 2013. It has more dimples after a week of play than my nib STLE that I got a week after manufactured date. So no, curing time is a myth IMO.
I thought my Met was dimple free…but then I looked at it under bright light and you could see them…but the busy art hides it under normal lighting conditions. I can live with that lol
Quoted from Rom:But MAN is that thing bright and the cabinet decals shiny! Tron and 24 are a little jealous now me thinks.
What WOULDN'T 24 be jealous of?
Quoted from pauloz:My eyes are bad but I couldn't tell the difference.
It's ON/OFF vs. smooth fades. Honestly the game stock with Incandescent mode (fade FX restored) doesn't bug me at all...but the video comparison IS compelling. I might have to get a few OCD's to play around with.
Quoted from Pimp77:Best configuration is incandescents for GI, LEDs (not too bright) for inserts...but that's just my opinion.
Now that I've gone LED, incandescent in GI just looks weird now....especially in a new "tech" type of theme like IM. IM now has an LED or incandescent "mode" ...but it works with either type of bulb. Basically "LED mode" takes away the fading type FX, as they're a bit jittery with LEDs. It doesn't bother me, so I put it in incandescent mode to get those fade FX back.
1 month later
I finally cracked 100 mil!
I started 2x scoring right before starting Do or Die...then hit the DoD shot right away for full 35 mil value x2 for 70 mil! Then I started Jericho and got further in that mode than I ever had...I started to hear some music I'd never heard before! Amazing that this "simple" game can still surprise 4 years after its release.
IM_GC_score.jpg
2 months later
Quoted from FrederikFrost:Btw Rai, I think do or die is 35 million, not 50 - at least on newer code?
However - if you have 2x going when DOD starts - you can get up to 70 million! So - maybe that's what happened.
Quoted from genex:That's what I was thinking since I have no idea the value of completing Jericho (since I never can do that! - but since it's a countdown it's rare that he would've hit it exactly as it was 25,000,000 at 2x?
I can't wait to get back to the studio to play it - this trip has kept me away from pinball for over 6 days ah!
You never know, the countdown has a bit of a grace period...it doesn't start counting till it gets out of the pops and hits another switch. I got lucky once and hit it at 35 mil with 2x and got the instant 70 mil!
Quoted from ENDOFLINE:just curious what kind of led bulbs stern uses in the GI for the vault edition (warm or cool)?
trying to figure out what to use in my ol' im pro.
Stern always uses cool 2-LED Cointaker dome styles. They look really good, IMO....you think it would need warms due to all the red and yellow...but there's also a lot of gray and blue - and CT's cool doesn't have that "blue cool" look to it...it's pretty neutral and works well for the game overall.
Quoted from ENDOFLINE:ahhh... I knew you would have the answer! I don't even wanna know how many times ive asked you for led advice.
thoughts on cool RETROS or FROSTED bulbs in im??
oh and just say no to color bombing too
Retros are too bright...only use them if they're entirely covered by a plastic...but honestly they're usually not needed with white lighting & are more expensive anyway...I've used them when I wanted red or blue somewhere...you get a better color flood with Retros. Frosteds give off a shitty color temperature and aren't bright enough, IMO. There might be 3 spots you'd want to use a frosted or a less-bright LED due to it not being covered enough and drawing your eye too much. I've got a simple ablaze 1-LED under the right ramp, for example. I think I might have used frosteds for the bottom bulb under each sling.
6 months later
Quoted from billsfanmd:how does whiplash chest light?
It doesn't unless you drill his chest and add an LED.
Quoted from billsfanmd:My friend thought his was lit before I added e wire. Should I kill him
Iron Monger comes with a lit chest on the VE. Whiplash does not. Just look at the toy..if there's an LED in his chest, it was modded to light.
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