(Topic ID: 37595)

IM Tweaks and A Couple Questions

By MrWizzo

11 years ago


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  • 36 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by copperpot
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#1 11 years ago

After I few games, I had to tweak the center spinner to turn freely as it as hitting the left rail and stopping short. Targets that don't position perpendicular to the playfield make me nuts, so I straightened out the Whiplash targets to get rid of them being pidgeon-toed.

I seemed to be getting some serious airballs on shots to the left ramp, which I think were being cause by the fit of the Monger plastic in the playfield cutout. The front edge was a bit high and the back edge a bit low. I think they were launching off the back edge of the cutout. I did not see anything that looked like an adjustment to the orientation of the Monger assembly to the playfield, so I took off the piece that the plastic attaches to and changed its angle a bit to fit the cutout edge a bit better. Still not perfect, but it seems to have fixed the airball problem.

This fit concerns me. I can see wear occurring like at the back edge of the boom balloon on CV and the Drak Trak on MB. Thinking about making a mylar protector for the edge of the cutout that help avoid this.

Has anyone else this less than perfect fit? Yes, I know this is pinball, but let's get it right. Has it caused a lot of wear? What, if anything, have you done with yours?

It would be good if the whole assembly could lower itself just a hair more, but the stop screws at the bottom have no more play in them before the carriage bottoms out against the lower switch. Pretty sure it is not a good idea to have the weight of the assembly resting on the switch. Funny that the tiny screws mounting that switch are inserted so that the their heads are almost inaccessible and not to the open side.

I may just shim the assembly under the playfield and then play with the stop acrews to get a better fit of the plastic in the cutout.

Dan

#2 11 years ago

you can slightly bend that entire monger assembly back or forward. It doesn't take much effort and its easily reversible.

I recently had an airball problem myself when trying to hit the center shot, but a quick adjustment (slight bend) fixed it right away.

-Wes

#3 11 years ago

Thanks Wes. I'll give that a try should the problem reoccur. Anything you have encountered that I did not mention above?

Dan

#4 11 years ago

Dan, I have some mylar circles at the house and can bring over a few for you tomorrow if I come over. Let me know.

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from jints56:

Dan, I have some mylar circles at the house and can bring over a few for you tomorrow if I come over. Let me know.

That would be great. thanks Tad.

Dan

#6 11 years ago

I had air ball issues with my monger out of the box. To fix, I removed the plastic top and slightly bend the metal brackets holding that plastic piece on so that the plastic was level with the playfield once reinstalled.

Another issue I had out of the box was that the monger wouldn't register all legitimate hits.

One problem was that the blue bumper brackets at the base of the monger were a bit too wide and a hit to the side of the monger would cause the metal bracket to hit the main monger plate and keep the monger from moving back far enough to register a hit. I just slightly bent the brackets in so that hits to the side always register.

The next thing I did was to add a washer on each of the three posts that attach the monger to the main plate to pull the monger slightly closer to the optos.

Both of the above tweaks made my monger register shots flawlessly.

#7 11 years ago

Dan,

Did you try adjusting the two screws at the bottom of the Monger assmebly? They will let you slightly tweak the height.

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Dan,
Did you try adjusting the two screws at the bottom of the Monger assmebly? They will let you slightly tweak the height.

Oh yeah, I forgot all about those. I also tweaked the height in this manner after leveling the flap brackets.

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

I had air ball issues with my monger out of the box. To fix, I removed the plastic top and slightly bend the metal brackets holding that plastic piece on so that the plastic was level with the playfield once reinstalled.
Another issue I had out of the box was that the monger wouldn't register all legitimate hits.
One problem was that the blue bumper brackets at the base of the monger were a bit too wide and a hit to the side of the monger would cause the metal bracket to hit the main monger plate and keep the monger from moving back far enough to register a hit. I just slightly bent the brackets in so that hits to the side always register.
The next thing I did was to add a washer on each of the three posts that attach the monger to the main plate to pull the monger slightly closer to the optos.
Both of the above tweaks made my monger register shots flawlessly.

Quoted from shanetastic:

Oh yeah, I forgot all about those. I also tweaked the height in this manner after leveling the flap brackets.

Thanks guys. I did try bending the mounting bracket a bit and it helped, so that is a good suggestion. Same with the the stop screws. I raised them a bit and between the two adjustments, the airballs have stopped. The back edge is perfectly flush, yet the front edge is just a wee bit higher than the playfield but doesn't seem to be affecting the path of the ball.

No problems with monger hits registering thankfully.

I did discover that left ramp needed some tweaking. the ball popped up there at first drop and just sat there without falling off the opening onto the playfield. Game is level side to side. I removed the support post under that first hump and switched it with the support post below the end of the ramp at the sling. It is a bit shorter and gives the ramp a slight tilt inward. I also put one washer under each of the two side support posts on the left edge of the ramp. So I raised the left edge and dropped the right edge of the ramp, and it works fine now.

Dan

#10 11 years ago

Getting the IM dialed in. Monger flap squared away. Whiplash left target staying perdendicular. Left ramp allowing ball to dump onto playfield at first hump.

Hate those the hard plastic post sleeves. Replaced them with rubber ones. A little livelier return off the posts.

Noticed the exposed pins on this little board under the playfield.

2013-01-25_14-22-10_985.jpg2013-01-25_14-22-10_985.jpg

Does everyone's have this as well? It doesn't seem anything is missing in terms of game function.

Best game so far is 106 M without the DOD hurry up bonus. I almost got to something big I think. I had all the features lit solid but monger. Started Jericho. At some point during Jericho, I started Monger and had all five features blinking. Don't know if I finished or even how to tell if Jericho is finished, but I drained without hitting the center spinner which I am guessing I needed to do.

Game seems to draw me in in a way that is different from other games. Maybe it is the shaker with the war theme. Pinball News has a good write up about IM:

http://www.pinballnews.com/games/ironman/index5b.html

The intro addresses two points:

First, I was telling Danny I didn't understand why there wasn't a IM figure on the playfield. He was laughing at me since he always hears me complaining about nonfunctional stuff cluttering up a playfield, and now he hears me wanting an IM figure on it.

Second, I was telling him how the narrated instructions were annoying. He explained how in the movie, the suit instructed IM on tactics. No longer annoyed.

Need to read through the rest of the article for the rules.

Dan

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Whiplash left target staying perdendicular.

Does your's move to the right too? I am having trouble keeping mine perpendicular. Usually, every couple of weeks, I move it over, tried tightening, but the target still moves...

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from JesseB:

Does your's move to the right too? I am having trouble keeping mine perpendicular. Usually, every couple of weeks, I move it over, tried tightening, but the target still moves...

Yes, hits on the left of the target move it over to the right. I pulled the target off the the playfield and tightened the screws that hold all the switch components as tight as I could. I got to the point where I was afraid I was going to break the screws.

I played a bunch of game with a lot of hits and no movement. I think I will put some locknuts and locktight on the end of those screw in the hope of keeping them tight.

Dan

#13 11 years ago

OK, thanks, I'll try that approach to the problem.

Jesse

#14 11 years ago

Ordered protectors and colored post rubbers from Cliffy, and knocker kit and under PF supports from PBL.

Any recommendations on sub and speaker kit?

Is 1.4 the latest update? No info on IPDB.

Need to move either the shaker or the tilt. The shaker cover prevents the tilt full travel.

Dan

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Ordered protectors and colored post rubbers from Cliffy, and knocker kit and under PF supports from PBL.
Any recommendations on sub and speaker kit?
Is 1.4 the latest update? No info on IPDB.
Need to move either the shaker or the tilt. The shaker cover prevents the tilt full travel.
Dan

I used the flipper fidelity kit. AMAZING sound! Get it! Also get some glass rattle tape along with the speaker kit, you will need it.

1.6 is the latest code version.

#16 11 years ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

I used the flipper fidelity kit. AMAZING sound! Get it! Also get some glass rattle tape along with the speaker kit, you will need it.
1.6 is the latest code version.

thanks Shane. I will check it out. The glass rattle tape is for the translite, I am guessing.

I was surprised that the rom revision history wasn't on IPDB.

Would you mind checking the board I posted above under your playfield when you get a minute. there are two unused pairs of pins but one set is bent up as if something was yanked off. I would just like to confirm that those pins should be unused.

Dan

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Noticed the exposed pins on this little board under the playfield.

Normal. That is an opto board. It should only have one set of optos plugged into it.

#18 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

The glass rattle tape is for the translite

The glass rattle tape is for the edges of the playfield glass. The whole cabinet will vibrate enough after adding the speakers combined with the shaker that it will rattle and make a terrible noise.

The board in your picture should only have one set of optos connected (for war machine). The other connector pair is unused since there isn't another opto used in the game. I assume Stern doesn't have a single opto board and just uses the dual opto board on everything.

#19 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Ordered protectors and colored post rubbers from Cliffy, and knocker kit and under PF supports from PBL.
Any recommendations on sub and speaker kit?
Is 1.4 the latest update? No info on IPDB.
Need to move either the shaker or the tilt. The shaker cover prevents the tilt full travel.
Dan

I think 1.6 is the latest.

Instead of the FF speaker kit, I added a high-low converter to interface with an external home sub. It's connected to a 250 watt 10" right now and is incredible with the shaker. Also, you don't have to worry about a cabinet sub rattling your glass.

#20 11 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Instead of the FF speaker kit, I added a high-low converter to interface with an external home sub. It's connected to a 250 watt 10" right now and is incredible with the shaker. Also, you don't have to worry about a cabinet sub rattling your glass.

I have a nice external sub (B&W) that I'm not using and would be great to use for a pinball. Can you provide any additional details on how you hooked it up to your Ironman?

Thanks, Jesse

#21 11 years ago

Had a bunch over yesterday, and IronMan did well. No airballs, whiplash target stayed straight.

Declaring it officially dialed-in!

Dan

#22 11 years ago
Quoted from JesseB:

I have a nice external sub (B&W) that I'm not using and would be great to use for a pinball. Can you provide any additional details on how you hooked it up to your Ironman?
Thanks, Jesse

Sure. I got a BOSS hi low converter from Amazon. It was about 10 dollars. This one had two channels on it as they usually do, but you only need one. The easiest way to do it is solder the two wires to the cabinet speaker terminals and plug in the sub to the converter.

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Systems-Level-Converter-B65N/dp/B000LP4RMQ/ref=sr_1_1

You'll also want to buy a subwoofer cable on amazon if you don't have one. photo.JPGphoto.JPG

#23 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Had a bunch over yesterday, and IronMan did well. No airballs, whiplash target stayed straight.
Declaring it officially dialed-in!
Dan

Congrats. That's a good feeling.

I had two adjustments on mine. The Monger locktite issue that caused it to miss hits and the Whiplash crooked switches.

#24 11 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Sure. I got a BOSS hi low converter from Amazon. It was about 10 dollars. This one had two channels on it as they usually do, but you only need one. The easiest way to do it is solder the two wires to the cabinet speaker terminals and plug in the sub to the converter.

Thanks for the information and photo, I have ordered the parts and am excited to get the sub connected.

Jesse

#25 11 years ago
Quoted from JesseB:

Thanks for the information and photo, I have ordered the parts and am excited to get the sub connected.
Jesse

Another tip: Wait until you have the system working before cutting wires and securing it. I think the left and right channels were swapped on that BOSS converter.

#26 11 years ago

Installed the Cliffies on the right ramp and at the shooter lane. Waiting for devliery on the under playfield supports and knocker kit from PBL, plastic protectors and red DMD cover from Pinbits and ringkit from PBR.

Next will probably be the subwoofer and speakers. Not sure whether to go in-cab or outside.

Has anyone had concerns on newer pins exposed to all the added vibrations of subs and shakers?
Unfounded? New water for me.

Dan

#27 11 years ago

Based on my experiences from earlier today, consider proactively improving the routing and tie down approach of the harness that feeds into the ironmonger motor. Once it gets snagged by the rotating arm, bad things can happen.

#28 11 years ago

No offense, but I don't understand why people spend $50-60 to upgrade the playfield supports. I've never had a problem working on mine with the struts.

#29 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Installed the Cliffies on the right ramp and at the shooter lane. Waiting for devliery on the under playfield supports and knocker kit from PBL, plastic protectors and red DMD cover from Pinbits and ringkit from PBR.
Next will probably be the subwoofer and speakers. Not sure whether to go in-cab or outside.
Has anyone had concerns on newer pins exposed to all the added vibrations of subs and shakers?
Unfounded? New water for me.
Dan

Zero concern on vibration. RS shakes like nobody's business and it is fine almost 20 years later. Today's shakers are tame compared to RS.

#30 11 years ago
Quoted from Tripin:

Based on my experiences from earlier today, consider proactively improving the routing and tie down approach of the harness that feeds into the ironmonger motor. Once it gets snagged by the rotating arm, bad things can happen.

I'll check that out. Thanks.

Quoted from swampfire:

No offense, but I don't understand why people spend $50-60 to upgrade the playfield supports. I've never had a problem working on mine with the struts.

None taken. I got them for better access and less chance of damaging the underside. If I manufactured pinball machines, I would be embarassed to sell games with those struts.

BTW, thanks for your posts a while back on IM settings and tweaks. They were helpful.

Quoted from Pimp77:

Zero concern on vibration. RS shakes like nobody's business and it is fine almost 20 years later. Today's shakers are tame compared to RS.

Good to hear.

Dan

#31 11 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

No offense, but I don't understand why people spend $50-60 to upgrade the playfield supports. I've never had a problem working on mine with the struts.

I tried using those things for a while, but I got sick of having to fully lift the playfield to be able to get to anything near the back end.

#32 11 years ago

Installed the playfield bracket supports and a red dmd screen today. Unsure about the red screen, but will give it some time

Was ready to install a new ring kit and the plastic protectors, but the ring kit wasn't even close to correct, even worse, the quantities in the manual for the rings on the game must have been for the home edition or something. How do you publish something that is so far off and doesn't even agree with location map? Some quantities were off by half. I think the usually reliable vendor sent the kit based on the information in the manual, which should have been accurate. Let me stop there.

Dan

#33 11 years ago
Quoted from JesseB:

Thanks for the information and photo, I have ordered the parts and am excited to get the sub connected

Got the parts in tonight and hooked up the external sub. I know for other people that have done this, I'm "preaching to the choir", but the sound is amazing!

This was really easy to install and I encourage others to give it a try especially if you have extra subs not being used as was the case for me.

Jesse

#34 11 years ago
Quoted from JesseB:

Got the parts in tonight and hooked up the external sub. I know for other people that have done this, I'm "preaching to the choir", but the sound is amazing!
This was really easy to install and I encourage others to give it a try especially if you have extra subs not being used as was the case for me.
Jesse

I'm glad you got it working. I much prefer this method than replacing the cabinet speaker.

#35 11 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I'm glad you got it working. I much prefer this method than replacing the cabinet speaker.

How does pricing compare for the two approaches?

Dan

#36 11 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

How does pricing compare for the two approaches?

Most of the external subs people run are about 100 bucks, and have 2 inputs (so you can run 2 machines on a single sub). It's the better deal, but the aesthetic isn't as clean as the internal speaker upgrades.

I've done both, and for Ironman, I think the external is the way to go. More powar!

-Wes

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