(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 11,593 posts
  • 667 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 minutes ago by SiN13
  • Topic is favorited by 354 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider trainh2o.
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#164 9 years ago

I've had my IJ since 2002 and have never seen the Frog video. I haven't ever completed the Mine Cart mode. Is there and end, or do you just run out of time?

I haven't ever gotten the medallion in the bar game, but I have gotten the extra ball many times.

Getting all 12 modes isn't too hard, but I have never gotten the 1 Billion points before.

#169 9 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

C'mon guys, give that brain some exercise! I beat the cart mode in back-to-back games last night.

So what's the end of challenge video and audio?

You should make a video and post it. I'm thinking it's impossible........like the bar mode.

#175 9 years ago

OK, I've finally been able to get the medallion. I must say the reward part of the video, is pretty unimpressive.

Now, I've got to get that darn mine cart reward.

#177 9 years ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

Cool on the medallion. I get that every once in a while. Have never been able to get the mine cart though.

Since learning about holding the flipper down, to move quicker across the bar, I get it more often.

Finishing the mine cart, and Frog Mode, still elude me.

#179 9 years ago

Let's talk about drop targets, specifically the 3-drop targets, that sit in front of the Idol Lock hole.

Mine usually drop very slowly, especially the one one the right. Sometimes, they slide down slowly, and have to be hit twice. I removed and totally disassembled the assembly, and cleaned everything with degreaser.

After reassembly, they are not much better. I even changed out the spring on the one that was the worst.

Here's a shot of the assembly bracket, and you can see where the targets have been sliding down the bracket.

Is this normal?

droptarget_plate.jpgdroptarget_plate.jpg

#181 9 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Putting a new stop bar on it might help.

Do your normally drop pretty quickly?

#186 9 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Has anyone installed the Pinbits LED board on their machine?
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=598&zenid=628b23e0cdf4289b4ac959c080ffe8fd
If so, could you please offer your opinion as well as post a couple pics?
I'm thinking about installing this on my IJ and just wondered if it is worth the cost.

I don't have that lighting kit but for the money, maybe check out some of the 12volt LED strips on Ebay. I bought one to use on another game. It was $9.99, and free shipping. Just search for LED RGB 30cm. Note, it needs 12 volts, which can be found on the power driver board and the coin door interface board.

#187 9 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

My drops did the same thing when I first brought IJ home, except my far left one was the slowest. There were multiple micro adjustments I made to eliminate the drag. There is a very narrow window of open space where they can drop freely, so for me, it was just trial and error. The most frustrating part for me was getting them to work perfectly while the playfield was up, but back to dragging while lowered. It's not hard, just tedious. Good luck!

What did you do? About the only thing I can think of is add another washer between the drop targets and the bracket.

#191 9 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

I honestly don't remember anything specific. Do the drops work well when removed from the playfield, or are they sticking on the mechanism itself? Mine worked fine uninstalled, but were dragging against the playfield opening. The whole assembly had to be shifted forward about 1/32". Try to isolate where the pressure is coming from causing the rub against the plate.

Mine are sticking on the bracket, not the playfield.

They do work somewhat better, but not like you would expect a typical drop target to fall.

#192 9 years ago

Back to playing........

I finally got the Frog Mode today. Now I have to complete the Mine Cart mode and get The Fish of Tales.

#196 9 years ago

Anyone considered repainting their Idol Ruins plastic? To me it's missing something.

Take a look at this thread, where a BSD owner custom painted some plastics on his BSD.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-custom-painted-bsd-graveyard-castle/page/2#post-1840421

before.jpgbefore.jpg after.jpgafter.jpg
#198 9 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Anyone selling Bi-Plane Mod? May pick up an IJ in the next few weeks.

Check out this thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-biplane-propeller-mod-low-budget

2 weeks later
#203 9 years ago

Not much activity here as of late, so I'll post a little brag.

I finally got The Fish of Tales, award. Now, if only I could finish the Mine Cart mode, I would have them all.

#206 9 years ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

Finally beat the mine cart!!!!!! Still no frog tho.

The thing about Frog Mode is remembering to start the game with both flippers pressed. After that, it's just a matter of crashing into the fourth blocked path, on the right.

Actually finishing the Mine Cart Mode, is a different story.

#208 9 years ago
Quoted from Dellamarmalade:

Only beat mine cart once myself the other day. What is frog mode anyway and what do you do in it.

It's a hidden bonus you can get in the Mine Cart Mode. I think it's worth 20 million points.

#211 9 years ago
Quoted from nikpinball:

Yay! Got a brand new POA motor for indy for $50 thanks to user - goodmanners IJ is coming along but I nearly snapped the backboard off because of that POA pivot arm. I still have no idea how that part mounts in there and it pinched against the cabinet getting stuck back there and smashing the POA circuit board mounted back there. Fortunately I think I have what I need to repair that board.

Good to hear. I was thinking it would be tough to find one without getting the entire motor.

#214 9 years ago

You know, I don't think I want to mod mine other than adding the missing plastic with lighting.

IJ is one of those games I really like, as is. Well, I may do a custom paint on my Idol Ruins. They always looked a bit too plasticy.

#216 9 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Only mods I did are.
1. Lost plastic
2. Lost Plastic lights "not the stupid $50 board"
3. Chrome Caps + LED rings.
4. Lights under temple.
5. Silver pistol grips
6. Jackpot lights
7. Outlane lights
8. Painted propeller to match wood + motor so it spins. (Propeller on both planes)
9. Little Idol on mini adventure.
10. Lights under the mini-adventure.
11. Shaker Motor.

Let's see.

#220 9 years ago

FYI......POA Tech Tip

I was having issues with my POA not tilting all the way to the right. Even though it passed the POA test, I was rarely able to make the top right switch. I was about to remove the ramps in order to remove the POA, when I noticed there was a lot of "play" in the mini playfield. I could take my hand and move the POA back and forth, pretty far.

So, I grabbed an allen wrench, leveled the POA as best I could, and tightened the set screw. Now, I can make any switch on the playfield.

Hope this helps someone.

#224 9 years ago

As cheap as I admit I am, ColorDMD for IJ would be able to pry my wallet open.

#226 9 years ago
Quoted from Arcadedl:

I was wondering about the Color DMD, and what it might mean for those of us who have the speaker panels with the modded Jackpot lights.
I'm assuming the Color DMD would have the ability to light the jackpot area?..hopefully...
Dan

I suppose that remains to be seen, since there is no official announcement. They did on TAF, but the lighting for it is already in place. With IJ, it's a modification that not everyone is brave enough to make.

1 week later
#234 9 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

My questions specifically center around the path of adventure. First off, mine doesn't seem to be able to lean far enough to the right. Is there a simple way to rebalance? Secondly, the Rod that goes up and down sometimes sticks. If you apply pressure to the back left part of the lost plastic, it does not stick.
Finally, what is the ideal pitch? I've heard the game needs to be balanced perfectly for an optimal gaming experience.
Thanks guys.

I posted something about this, about 14 posts back or so. I would make sure it passes all the tests in the test menu first. This helps rule out a mechanical or opto failure.

With mine, the set screw was loose. Once I leveled the POA and tightened that screw, it tilted fully to the right.

In some cases, I have heard about the right side of the POA hitting the Jackpot sign. If that's your issue, look to see which set of screws it is mounted to on the left ramp. You may be able to move it to the other set, giving the POA more clearance to tilt.

1 week later
#239 9 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

hoping to join the club. Anyone wanting to exit club send me a PM

Buying into the IJ club is pricey, these days. I am thankful that I bought mine before the pricing went crazy.

3 weeks later
#260 9 years ago

There are many things that can cause resets. The Pinwiki link above, lists a good many of them.

While you are resetting J101, look at the connector and the header pins on the board where it plugs in. If you see any discoloration on either, it's probably time to replace both.

Also, check your voltage at the power outlet and make sure it is what it's supposed to be. I'm not sure what yours is in Hong Kong, 220V?

If all this checks out, measure the voltage on the 5volt test point on the power driver board.

#265 9 years ago

I wouldn't recommend using a yellow LED in a yellow insert. Every one I have used made the insert look dull, almost brown. I would suggest a warm white.

However, I have not tried the yellow Comet LED that you have listed.

How does the sunlight white compare to the warm white?

#269 9 years ago

Looking at the descriptions, they look like Cometpinball.com.

#281 9 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Here's an interesting question: If I send my gun out to get nickel plated, is there any way to still trigger the plunge while I'm waiting for the gun to get back, or will it basically disable the machine? Trying to figure out a way to have my cake and eat it, too! (I haven't taken it apart yet, so I'm not sure!) Thanks...

I suppose you could always just close the switch contacts with your hand, or rig something up. It just won't be pretty.

#302 9 years ago

It's pretty common for my game to launch an air-ball over the exit of the left wireform, into the left outlane. It will on occasion launch another ball, but not every time.

I am not sure what parameters the game uses to determine when it should launch another ball.

3 weeks later
#319 9 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I'm still tweaking mine out, but it was my grail before I even got it. How did you fix the POA problem? Was it that you couldn't get it down that first left-side path? That's what I'm dealing with now...

How does it respond in test mode? Do the optos test good?

It could be that it needs to be adjusted. Check and see if the POA has a lot of left to right play in it. Mine was loose and would not rotate all the way to the right. I leveled the POA and used an Allen Wrench to tighten the set screw.

It's been perfect ever since.

#322 9 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

We tinkered with mine for quite some time. Adjusting the set screw until it was perfect. However, it won't hug the right side 100 percent of the time, but it's close.

In some cases, the right side of the POA hits the Jackpot plastic. Make sure that you have proper clearance. It may be possible to move that plastic to the other set of mounting screws on the ramp, if this is your problem.

10 months later
#681 8 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Could someone take a picture of the GI connector J120 for me I am not sure if mine is correct.. My top GI is out.. Thanks!

If you have a multimeter, check that GI string for power and ground. That way you can see where your issue lies.

#683 8 years ago

Look in the manual for that GI string. Check the fuse, out of the game.

If that checks out take a close look at J120 and J121. The power is daisy chained one to the other. There is a circuit trace that runs between the two connectors, for each GI string. I would check for power and ground on both connectors.

#686 8 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright scratch that! All voltages check out with the manual. Now I am looking for a break in the line under playfield. Brown and orange wire lead to playfield..
Anything else I should be looking for?
FYI-I already checked and replaced all GI fuses too. Thanks!

If you have the proper voltage, test at the socket to confirm, then it's most likely a missing ground. You can confirm that by using your meter on continuity setting. Put one probe on a grounding strap in the backbox and the other to the ground on the lamp socket.

If the ground is missing, you can carefully take a piece of wire and connect one end to the grounding strap and the other to the ground of the lamp socket. If this is your issue, the lamp should light. I like to use wires with alligator clips on the ends, from Radio Shack, so the wire doesn't pop loose and short to anything else.

#687 8 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Trying to clean my brass legs, just wondering, has anyone try to polish these or does the brass come off? Seems like it is only a thin layer of brass color with steel underneath.

I tried a small spot using brass cleaner, on the inside where you can't see it. It took the brass off on mine.

Hopefully someone else has a better solution. I may just get mine rebrassed at some point.

#693 8 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I am getting 7.3v at the socket.. Tried the ground trick but it didn't work.. Argh!

OK, but did you check the ground for continuity at the connector and the socket as I suggested?

Backing up a bit..............did that GI string work prior to you replacing J120 and J121?

#696 8 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright the problem is fixed I redid the connect with a .156 connector and everything is working now thanks for all your help Train H2O!!

Cool. Those IDC connectors are hard to get right unless you have the punch to push the wires down correctly.

The .156 crimp connectors are so much better but they are a pain to crimp, at times.

1 week later
#708 8 years ago

On mine, the ones across the top are all connected with a Blue/Green wire. With one exception. The third one from the left (on top row) has a black wire that connects it to the flasher socket that's in the center. The center one is covered by the chart, in my photo.

Looking from the back,
Left Top - Black/White
Left Bottom - Blue/Red
Right Top - Blue/Orange
Right Bottom - Brown/White
Bottom Row - Black/Yellow

ij_backbox_lights.jpgij_backbox_lights.jpg

#710 8 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

TrainH20, you are a champion!!!! If I could give your post 20 up votes I would. Thanks so much!
Pinside at work.

I had to make an edit. Be sure to re read my post.

Sorry.

#712 8 years ago

The right top could be Blue/Orange. It's a bit hard to tell.

As for the Black, mines Black. Maybe it's a "Friday afternoon and we want to get out of here special edition".

Follow your manual's color scheme.

#722 8 years ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

How many owners are running incandescents in their IJ? I currently have LED's, but I'm thinking of going back for this game.

I have a mix of incandescent and LEDs in the backbox. Going full LEDs in the backbox looks strange to me. The character insets look don't look as good with LEDs either.

I tried a variety of different LEDs for GI and haven't found one that I like. I do have LEDs in the red inserts, and am ordering a few green ones to try out.

1 week later
#736 8 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

who here completed Eternal Life Multiball and got awarded 1 billion point (with glass on, of course )

I have only once. For me, the POA is usually the hardest thing to get. I try to shoot for it first, even though I let a lot of balls go down the drain.

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