Quoted from AaronZOOM:

The way it was originally designed, there is an angled metal plate behind it which is supposed to deflect an incoming ball down into the saucer, and also deflect the ball back towards the player when it is ejected.
Unfortunately, the metal plate has never worked very well for the majority of IJ owners. Typically, many shots directly into the mode hole will bounce right back out, meaning it can be difficult to start a mode, or complete any reward that requires the mode saucer. This is probably the most important shot in the game, and it's always been frustrating.
Since the dawn of time, IJ owners have tried to fix this problem so that the mode hole "sticks" better. From bending the original deflector, to replacing it, to removing it completely, there is a TON of information about what people have tried. Foam, rubber, prayers...you name it.
You may have noticed a lot of talk here lately about ricochet's upcoming deflector replacement called "Lao's Antidote." This is a complete metal replacement for the existing deflector plate, honed through clever engineering and rigorous testing. Once it's out in the wild, may we never have to fuss with the "mode hole problem" ever again.

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Dollar Bill Validator

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I don't know about the clear one. I think that'd be a pretty stock Williams part, no? It's not game specific, after all. Never seen them sold individually, though. I also note that the pop bumper mylar usually covers this area as well - did they come up when the mylar was removed?
As for the Lost Treasure decal, it just so happens I have a spare. Shame I didn't know about this before I shipped your target decals! PM me if you're interested in the single decal, though.

Quoted from Ricochet:

It's a casted part, it is coated but has natural grey metal finish. Same gun handle that is used on Dirty Harry.

Quoted from Manny65:

Sounds like you have some shorted transistors - to start off with disconnect J3 and J4 on the 8 Driver PCB and J130 on the Power Driver PCB, then turn the machine on you shouldn't have any burning smell or things wrong. Turn the machine off and reconnect the connectors, assuming you have a DMM you need to test your transistors Q10 (Idol motor) and Q14 (Special Flashers) on the 8 Driver and Q65/Q66 (Idol release) on the Power Driver PCB. Note that Q66 is a TIP36c while the other transistors are TIP102.
Testing a TIP-102 transistor:
Set the DMM to diode check
Place the black lead on the center leg
Place the red lead on each of the flanking legs in turn
A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed
Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.
Testing a TIP-36c transistor:
Set the DMM to diode check
Place the red lead on the center leg
Place the black lead on each of the flanking legs in turn
A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed
Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.
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Quoted from Manny65:

So have the other issues you previous mentioned (Special flashers, idol release coil and idol motor) all disappeared? Or have you disconnected the associated connectors?

Quoted from Manny65:

This is most likely why Special flashers were constantly on and the idol motor was running as that ribbon cable connects the CPU board to the 8 Driver PCB which those 2 components run off. While the idol release coil is not on the 8 Driver board it could still be a symptom of the issue.
So has it resolved all your issues?

Quoted from paynemic:

fantastic!! Are those radcals? I agree that removing old art is a pain. I have a friend who let me use his Festool (big sander vacuum thing ) and it was amazing. I didn’t take it down to wood, but the white decal underneath was plenty smooth for the radcals.

Quoted from RefugeNate:

Hey fellow IJ owners, looking for some playfield restoration advice. I am going to do a complete tear down and full restore on my IJ and am trying to decide on either a Mirco repro playfield vs having my original restored. I know there are different opinion regarding Mirco products but they do look really nice. I have used HSA in the past to restore an original MB but I know they are not in business any longer. My original is probably an 8.5 out of 10. Does anyone know someone who restores and clear coats or do you think Mirco is the better option? Anyone have pros and cons one way or another? Thanks all!

Quoted from RefugeNate:

toine79 That looks amazing! Yeah I feel a little intimidated tackling it myself. Did you do any playfield touchups before clearing? Great job man!

Quoted from Ricochet:

There is a pair of wires that connect the upper back-box GI lamps to the power-driver board. The color of the pair is White-Yellow and Yellow. They connect from the back-box to the power driver board either J120 or J121. You should unplug the connector containing that color pair of wires from your power driver board, replace the fuse and power the unit back up without the connector plugged in. This will tell you if you have a short on that pair or in the wiring of that GI chain on your back box lamp board. This should be very easy to isolate if its indeed a problem with the wiring.
If the fuse doesn't blow....
Pull out all the bulbs from your back box that are not lit (as shown in the pic). Use a meter and check the resistance across the White-Yellow and Yellow pair on the connector housing. You should have 0 ohms. If you don't ... something is shorted.