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Quoted from swenny:Another Q for IJ owners. I'm going to put LED's behind my translite. Would you use frosted or clear? I know it's probably personal preference, but just curious what others have liked best.
First, I know the photo is terrible, but it's just for reference. I used a mix to get the perfect amount of light spread that I wanted.
-The red and orange up top are ablaze clear 3led. This keeps the color focused on the Williams and Indiana Jones logos without much bleed into the artwork.
- Incandescents are used in the middle to keep the warm tone in specific areas. I haven't found a warm white LED yet that I'm completely happy with.
- Cool white frosted LEDs were used to highlight specific spots (faces, items, etc). frosted gives an even spread without hot-spotting.
I've also deliberately left multiple sockets empty for a couple reasons:
There is more than enough light.
It further reduces the strain on the GI string.
Reflective glare is minimized.
One day I'll stop putting all my money into pinball and buy a decent camera, but I'm really happy with this configuration. The saturation levels are not overdone (no color bombs), and it works well to enhance the original artwork instead of overpowering it.
Quoted from swenny:Do you happen to have a pic w/ the translite on so I can see what it looks like?
Sigh, yes, but note for the record that I'm posting it under duress My phone really does not capture it well.
The faces look like they're lit under daylight without being blown out, while Indy has a warmer "torch-light" tone to him overall. The incandescents and frosted coolwhites blend much smoother than the photo, and the red in the upper corner is not that pronounced at all. Take Indy on the horse for example; you get a nice yellow sun while keeping a strong white highlight on his shirt.
I did not light the ark with GI, because it doesn't need it, and it looks more impressive when the flashers go off.
Play around with all different types. Every manufacturer/configuration of LED outputs slightly differently; use that to your advantage to get the exact look you're going for.
Quoted from zucot:It's scary the first time you pull it off. and you have to remove a bunch of other stuff, but if you go slow it's actually not that bad.
Agreed. Getting to the PoA was the worst part for me, but after doing it a few times, it's not that bad.
My drops did the same thing when I first brought IJ home, except my far left one was the slowest. There were multiple micro adjustments I made to eliminate the drag. There is a very narrow window of open space where they can drop freely, so for me, it was just trial and error. The most frustrating part for me was getting them to work perfectly while the playfield was up, but back to dragging while lowered. It's not hard, just tedious. Good luck!
Quoted from TrainH2o:What did you do? About the only thing I can think of is add another washer between the drop targets and the bracket.
I honestly don't remember anything specific. Do the drops work well when removed from the playfield, or are they sticking on the mechanism itself? Mine worked fine uninstalled, but were dragging against the playfield opening. The whole assembly had to be shifted forward about 1/32". Try to isolate where the pressure is coming from causing the rub against the plate.
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