Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
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Quoted from Ricochet:Got one more tweak and another round of testing of the new mode deflector... this one is testing very well.
Hang tight it will be a few more weeks to get it finished and the manufacturing process done.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks promising, sign me up for one. In the meanwhile I’m going to slot drill out these holes to move the scoop back. Any other recommendations?
3397B1F7-41FE-4AA6-B597-9758234B5039 (resized).jpegQuoted from Ricochet:I get what your saying. The effect of this deflector on the plastic is no different than the factory deflector... in fact it’s better as it captures the ball. It doesn’t replace the plastic and a lid would not really make a difference. The standard plastic protector is best if you want a lid. This is how I run mine... with the protector and the playfield plastic on top
Ok, so it ugly and beat but it works. Took quite a bit of bending, drilling testing, re-bending, drilling, testing. Locks 100% from left & right flippers. I think one bounce back after 30 locks cuz it wasn’t a clean shot. I ordered another one so I can have a clean one to match this one now that I got the shape. Still need to hack off the back as it extends past the guide rail. Will post the final one once I get it and I match this one
2E1B355E-5DF7-4752-8A3C-1EFBD451A1E8 (resized).jpeg9175F421-3AEB-4E97-8E1F-0F953DFDC1E9 (resized).jpegB0FF082D-FA0F-4D81-8B3C-D8C3F3C1153F (resized).jpegB66C3A22-158A-4A85-8907-97349D28C6D3 (resized).jpegD7EB7D4C-361D-4F65-B42A-002F3089A281 (resized).jpegQuoted from AaronZOOM:Yes, absolutely. Regardless of your choice, a ColorDMD is one of the best and most striking upgrades you can make to your machine.
You can't really go wrong either way.I don't know how it is on Ghostbusters, but I think the upscaling really works best on pins that tried to digitize video footage into DMD animations. Like that *other* Indiana Jones pin out there.
Come on, everyone knows there is only 1 Indiana Jones Pin. Just like there are only 3 Indiana Jones Movies 
Quoted from Ricochet:Yep... I was hoping this would be a drop in with a modified top protector. As soon as it became obvious I needed to manipulate it... I decided not to pursue it.
Glad you found the right shape.
Yeah why doesn’t anybody test their products. No way this ever worked. But maybe that’s how arcades got more quarters.
Quoted from Ricochet:Shooting for having the mode hole deflector ready by the end of next week (fingers crossed). If the demand is there... I will have it available for sale on my pinside shop "Pin-Ups". There is another solution out there that just popped up today (spacers to drop the saucer and hardware)... seems like a good solution as well.
I will provide installation instructions and I will post a video of my solution in action once I get it finalized. PM me if you are interested... so I can get an idea of the initial quantity that I will need to get fabbed. Again, IF I get a decent amount of interest... I will stock it, if not then I will just sell them one-zee two-zee. I will also be selling some other items in the near future... simple stuff to make your game play better or easier to customize.
Thanks for being a part of this project... all your comments and help were very valuable.
Jim
Add me to the list
Quoted from pinballinreno:Im tweaking gameplay on my newly shopped game.
I dont like that the right orbit ends up on the left sling.
Other tweaks are to install the Davi airball plastic while i have the POA off.
Although its better than sdtm lol.
I think some bending of the left part of the flatrail is in order
Yeah I just noticed mine does the opposite - the left to right orbit hits the right sling, other direction is perfect. I believe I could adjust the level or the guide rail but not sure if I care too much.
Let me know how it goes though. Curious if you can get perfect left/right orbits that go right to the flippers
On the other hand, just tuned my POA & Mode lock. Both are perfect. Mode eject locks close to 100% from both flippers now and the eject perfectly places the ball to the left flipper
Just feels new now
Actually weird thing is I got some games in last night and today and both left & right orbits now are making perfect loops. Strange but I’ll take it. Now if I can get the ball to 100% drop into the POA it will be brand new
Quoted from amxfc3s:I had to jack up the rear of my game a lot to get the ball into the POA every time. The levelers are maxed out and I put a piece of 1/2 plywood under them to get it up high enough.
Yeah I think the level is perfect so I’m willing to forgo this. It’s 7-8 out of 10 going in rn so it’s fine. May try and washer the top bolts out but not anytime soon. That lock pin is touchy and don’t want to interfere with that. Fix the nose, cut off the ears
They are. Actually took a while to tune them so the ball drops center. The issue is the ball just skips the POA altogether 2 out of 10 times. Not sure if I need a quicker coil, but obviously setting the back legs up high helps but it’s set just right now so I really don’t want to increase the height just for a couple misses. I’ll play with it at a later date. Definitely getting the mode locks 1000% improved the game. Got to Wizard on 1 ball today only 1 day after tuning it. Took me almost 2 years to get Wizard prior
Quoted from paynemic:I had problems with that. It cheesy but I put a little bit of duct tape in the ramp before the pin. Literally never had a problem again.
Where did you put the duct tape? Got a pic?
Quoted from AaronZOOM:This is almost certainly the issue. Don't tilt the whole machine, just make sure the feeder ramp tilts forward the slightest bit, but be sure the post isn't touching the sides of the hole and still moves freely.
Don't want to bend anything? ricochet's spacer washer solution is your safe and reversible bet.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking. Put washer spacers to tilt it. The tape technique looks legit as well. If the spacers don’t help I’ll try some tape
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:New to the club and loving it. what a great pin!
My start mode is getting a bunch of kick-outs. Best way I've found is from the left flipper cradled. Really hard to hit with the right flipper and when I do, it bounces back out. I looked for a "sticky post" of common issues/fixes, couldn't find. Any help appreciated!
Look up this page and the previous. Ricochet has a solution for you
Quoted from PtownPin:yea the last thing u want to do in IJ is steepen those ramps. I'd set the game at 6.5-6.8 degrees and call it good
So it works now. Just put 1 of these on the upper left bridge flap. Made sure the pin had ample room to clear the hole. Works 100% now. Ok, now I’ve got zero excuses to not play shitty any more. Pin is 100% working now. Whew
2A591C3A-58D0-440D-812C-EA708A021A8A (resized).jpeg4C1A9BA4-982A-4E7F-BD7F-35A2E218D864 (resized).jpegQuoted from Nomanimdave:Thanks for the advice, Ricochet. I am just starting to learn about this stuff. Learned through YouTube how to solder, in anticipation of buying my first machine, DESW, which I still really like. I have a cheap multimeter, but do not know how to do much with it other than check for continuity and polarity. Much steeper learning curve with IJ, with optos, different flipper technology, and more PCBs than DESW.
I have both pins. DESW was a good intro, but IJ is a monster. Never be afraid to fix it. Be careful with R2, Deathstar (and gate), and IJ idol lock. All are very hard to find. Everything else is available
Curious what every has their playfields set to. I just noticed mine was set at 8.5 degrees. I see the manual says 6-7 degrees. I moved it down to 7.25 and seems really floaty but ramps and wire forms see to flow better now. The speed was catching some balls.
Quoted from bkaelin:thanks for your help. BTW, according to another post, Lite Hands of Fate should stay lit during attract mode, so apparently the fact that they are staying lit isn't a problem.
Because of this reason I put in Comet 555 Wedge Flex Changing Color Slow. As a nice touch of magic to those 2 lights since they remain on quite a bit
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/1smd-flex?variant=12386967748652
Quoted from Navystan:Thanks if needed are these readily available?
Stan the man (my brothers name) - I’d highly recommend scanning through the Marcos page for starters and get familiar with all the parts available. It’s been a bit but some of the POA parts you’re looking for will be there
It’s about 12 pages but will give you a good idea what’s available while you clean this puppy up. There’s some other good sites as well (Pinball Life, Pinside Market Place, etc)
Quoted from AaronZOOM:I submit to the court a photo of Indy's screen-used revolver from Raiders of the Lost Ark:[quoted image]
Can we get a gun mod that looks lime that?
That’s legit. That’s exactly what it is. If you hit those drops straight on and it goes directly to the left Outlane on a quick timer you get the ball back
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:The original playfield is all cleared and polished and ready to go. The Spraymax is some awesome stuff.[quoted image]
Did somebody fix your original PF and clear coat it?
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:I clear coated and touched up myself. The lower area of the playfield had a lot of planking in the yellow bands encircling Indy, so I airbrushed 5 of the 6 bands. The only yellow band I didn't have to touch was the upper right with the 6x insert. There were a few gouges in the playfield, this one next to the Marion insert was hard to touchup because it is two-tone. I had to use a linen tester loupe just to see what I was doing when dotting the two-tone. I liked the glitter on the Mirco so much that I added it to this playfield.
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Oh damn, and you glittered it as well, nice.
Yeah I got a Micro but I’m not swapping out my original anytime soon. It’s good enough and eventually would like to see about cleaning it up like you did.
Great job 
Quoted from DudeRegular:Hi all,
Looking to pick up IJTPA if anyone is looking to move theirs. Could buy or trade (Beatles, Star Trek, maybe Addams). I have a couple of leads via facebook, but nothing has confirmed just yet. Thanks!
One for sale in NC for 11K if you really want one
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:Nothing good about bitching at a pinhead who is trying to produce a product that will improve your game.
What is even worse is posting a god damn cat meme to illustrate your god damn impatience. Yes, you think it's cute........it is not!!!
QSS
A4A3F9DD-453F-40C9-9E38-BB966BD91CC4.gifQuoted from paynemic:Anyone know what (if any) sound effect is supposed to play for collecting special? I’ve gotten it twice lately and it played nothing. But I’m running endprodukts mix (I love it).
I forgot how you even get special
Quoted from dluth:Special is lit after collecting all the treasures in totem multiball.
Ahhh, that’s the one thing I haven’t completed. I’ve also never got the friends jackpot
Yup, after you lock in each of the friends it builds up a jackpot. To cash it in (depending how many you locked) you hit the ramp. I’ve never locked in all friends and cashed that in (they are solid not flashing when locked in)
Yeah I didn’t either. I always wondered why some characters flashed and others were solid. I saw Laser stream, explain it, then execute it on a stream. Complete surprise. With this much depth, this pin is one of the greatest of all time
Ha. This game must be cursed this way. I was waiting for a friend to pick me up and played a “quick game” . Had to let him in because the ball wouldn’t drain. I ended up putting his initials in as the GC for being patient and it stayed there for almost a year
Yeah same here, maybe 70mil for WoS. 148 is amazing. Damn must have been 30 mins if you had 2 balls @ 4 mil per shot
You’ll be back. (BTW, I question that shipping angle/method. Generally I try and do PF level. One good dip and a lot of things can fall down into the head. Hopefully the balls are out)
Quoted from Manny65:Most of the games that get shipped around Australia or brought in from overseas are shipped on the end - there's no issues doing it. Also this is how NIB games are shipped, so the machines are designed to handle it.
I had a game with several items dumped at that angle. New games are different as there’s nothing stored anywhere in side. If you pickup a game and are confident nothing is inside the cab and everything is tight, go for it. But most machines I’ve run across are used to store parts/etc.
Quoted from transprtr4u:In fact it is attached to the leg bracket, will change it so its like in the picture provided by thechakapakuni
Will let you know the outcome
Thanks to all for the info ... so far
Yeah if it’s touching the leg bracket it’s probably grounding and causing an issue
It interesting, my carbon cliffy broke to shreds and I removed it and replaced it with a steel one again. I think if I ever get my new PF installed I’m gonna extra thick clear coat the ring below the lip to prevent wear.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:I have an issue with my POA ball stop post. Intermittently the stop post will drop as soon as the POA becomes available. I have to turn off/turn on the machine to correct it.
The post isn’t binding and operates fine in tests.
Maybe the switch isn’t working/stuck on. Maybe run a test and see if it functions correctly
Ok Coin Door light pros, I need my checks validated. I have a new coin door (for a while now) and I’m sure the coin door lights were working. Either way, the bulbs check out, I’ve attached a picture of the cable connected to the coin door interface board (J3) which appears to run through the board to J2 then back (via Violet & White Violet) to the Power Driver Board J119-1 & 3. I’ve tested connecting a multimeter to the coin door lights and get nothing. J3-1 & 2 don’t seem to show power either. Should I be connecting the multimeter to those 2 connectors or 1 of the J3’s and a ground. Also, not sure if there is a specific fuse to these 2 lamps, but everything else on the PF looks on. So not sure what’s up
6EF55B1C-95E7-4DBF-8FFE-5ABAAC141DE8 (resized).jpegQuoted from pinballinreno:Check continuity of all connections to ground.
Swap the coin door interface board with a good, working one and see if it fixes it.
Some have reported bad diodes on the interface boards causing mischief.
You know where to get a Williams A-14689-1 board at? I don’t see anybody selling these
Quoted from pinballinreno:It might be just a loose or worn connection at the driver board.
I would start there and trace it back to the coin interface board.
Does the door have 6v or 12v lamps in it? There are 2 styles out there. Maybe thats why it doesnt light?
AFMr is 12v. People find this out by melting 6v LEDs when they do mods lol.
IJ wiring is 6.3v
You should have 6v at the lamps if all is in order.
You can always unplug the door connector and test the lamps with a 6v battery. Just clip it to both sides of the socket.
I had a start button light not working on Funhouse. I injected power all the way from the driver board and it
proved to be working.
Ended up being a loose connection on an IDC (j-135 on Funhouse) cable in the backbox.
The schematic helped a lot in this case, it took a couple hours but I got it fixed.
It’s 6.3v. and the bulbs check out. I’m certain they were working when I installed the door, I’m so senile now though I don’t remember much. I’m gonna try getting an extra board to test, I don’t mind having extra parts. I’m thinking that’s where the issue is. I’ve tried reseating the connectors and no luck. Is there an expected voltage (and how to test) that should be coming from J119-1 J-119-3 & J116-2 & J116-3 (which I believe feed the coin door GI power). Not sure if I can test 2 of these wires with a multimeter or if I need a ground to test. If those are firing the correct power then it’s most likely the Coin Interface Board
C6E169F7-7AC4-47B7-94DD-83B1D4B80940.pngQuoted from pinballinreno:All voltage tests are pretty much are power to ground.
In theory ground is everywhere, legs, siderails, ground braid....everywhere...
If you think its the coin interface board, the likely candidate is simply a bad diode in that specific circuit or a cracked/loose pin or loose IDC connection on the board.
Its easily checked with a meter.
Thanks! You’re probably right. I’ll give the voltage tests a run and if it’s not an easily identifiable bad diode then I’ll run the board up to my guy. Don’t mind keeping him busy
Right? I have an extra new playfield, backglass, decals, etc for that day when I have all that free time to rebuild it. Sadly I will probably die before that happens, but it’s the thought that counts 
Yeah I created a hack solution as well, but looking forward to Ricochets regardless as it’s the holy grail
Quoted from Ricochet:*********** LAO's Antidote Production Starting *************
Please, if you have PM'd me or replied regarding interest in this product... check my sheet to see if you are on it...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11nD2RZnNf3VHWYTyTVtXyvln9uA4hbOW5QK7jVhbGS8/edit?usp=sharing
If not, send me a PM.
This is for initial qty only. It doesn't have to be super accurate... I need to be certain that I get enough material for those who have shown interest and have helped to keep the candle burning for this thing
There are a handful of you that have helped with testing (even really early on) you may not be on this list... but I got you covered.
Price for this will be $35.00 + $10.00 shipping CONUS, $20.00 shipping elsewhere.
What is included:
- Lao's Antidote Fitment
- 2 ea #6-32 machine screws
- 2 ea #6 washers to install between the screw and your plastic (I don't like driving screws directly onto playfield plastics!)
- Installation Instructions
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
4DE6B327-027A-489E-83BF-ABD408AE98B7.gifQuoted from Turtlemaster:Here’s where I put mine
[quoted image]
Damn. I want to do that but I’m paranoid those will come crashing down on my $400 PDI glass
Go to the right when it starts and remember the Nazis don’t show up out of view. They will start to group on that end and it’s easier to get them.
Quoted from Ricochet:I will begin shipping Lao's Antidote this week... I will reach out to each of you in turn on my list.
Thank you!
972F809B-8B0E-4C91-8C81-AFF6E998E71C.gifQuoted from pinballinreno:I love the clank sound and then the THUNK !
Its awesome.
After you put the glass on it quiets down and you cant really hear the clanks as much.
But the THUNK is very satisfying.
So is it the Clankadote or the Thunkadote?
Yeah I’m in several threads. It seems like 90s pins thread are happier times. Current threads of new pins with bad playfields not even a year old is just complete sadness. This is one of the greatest pins ever made. And the facts it’s lasted almost 30 years with the original parts & playfields says everything. I come back here to find a much happier experience. Probably why my IJ is located in my living room
Yeah it’s the
Quoted from tilt-master:Thanks, yes I’m starting to try adjustments with that. I’ll find the right set up. The ball currently lands anywhere between the end of left flipper to the end of right flipper
Yeah tweak the eject arm. I did it until the ball 100% lands center left flipper
It’s a compliment. Looks great, I bought one but haven’t installed it. Waiting for a full restore rainy day
Quoted from ZMeny:SDTM EXCLUSIVE: Elite Indiana Jones Pinball Topper 24K GOLD!
Did you say fog machine?
Quoted from Ricochet:Antidote customers... if you have a SDTM behavior that cannot be corrected with adjustment of your kicker... please let me know, don't live with it. I don't expect you to have to bend the living sh!t out of your kicker arm to get it to work.
Thanks
Jim
I’ve always had to bend the kicker arm anytime I mess with the assembly. It’s not a bug deal. Mine works perfect dropping it center left flipper.
I’ve been hearing all the mircos are not dimpled correctly. I guess when I get mine finally underway, I’ll document the incorrect dimples. It is a shame anything is off but I guess when you’re the only person doing IJ playfields, that’s what you’re gonna get. I’m under the impression Disney didn’t approve the licensing for this PF either so there’s that
Quoted from Ashram56:This was "Lost in translation"... As to be honest, being french, "dimpling" is not a term I'm familiar with (well, I know "Dimples", but if my memory is correct this would be more relevant to my teenager daughter than a pinball playfield )...
Yeah it’s a pinball term. The predrilled or primed holes where you fasten the Playfield parts
Quoted from amxfc3s:Is anyone still making CNC cut speaker panels with the 3 cutouts in them for the light board? Or were those a one time thing? I'm hesitant to try and cut them out of my original panel.
Check the market. Somebody sells these with the lights commonly
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:Yes. My Mirco IJ playfield had very bad pooling and paint flaking off. I had to touch it up and reclear with Spraymax 2K. Never buying a Mirco with their current clear coat, it's much too soft and malleable.
Damn. Maybe I’ll be sending mine to HEP to reclear when I get around to installing. That and get rid of the blood thirsty Willie
Quoted from Manny65:I now want to see a pic of Willie in present form
E1E2E133-3FBA-4DE8-AD7C-AC0B0C959280 (resized).pngQuoted from BentleyBear:Recieved my new improved deflector today.Works perfect.Locks the ball in every time and no more SDTM.Best mod ever
Thanks Jim for bringing an IJ owner some peace
What changed from the original?
Ricochet is right - I see the display showing intermittent optics. Make sure it’s clean and/or replace them
See this thread, seems to be the same issue you have
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-path-of-adventure-problem-1
Quoted from Ricochet:Here is screen printed decal[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great. Did you prep the original cabinet or buy a new aftermarket cab?
Quoted from Ricochet:I put a lot of work into keeping the original cabinet… maybe too much
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"0406cc195346597d168c8f85356ca5f37fa337ef-1626387719-1800"};
//]]>
Oh nice. I’ll use that as my template. I have Radcals, new PF, CPR back glass, etc all waiting for a rainy day
Correct, they are not going down even in a recession. I still see Indys come up in the $7K range. If your waiting on the sidelines that is your bottom
Quoted from TimBoch:Give it some TLC ASAP or PDQ or you could be FUBAR
Well if that’s the case, BOHICA 
Quoted from orlandu81:So for only the second time, I first activated the Lost Treasure multi-ball, then started the "Steal the Stones" mode, followed by sending both balls up the Path of Adventure in succession. Both were released on the mini-PF and it was a blast trying to slow them down to hit as many switches as possible.
I love this game!
So when you start Lost Treasure multiball with the Steal before Steal the Stones then hit the mode, the balls lock 1 by one on the POA gate?
Ok, I see. You got lucky and hit 2 balls within seconds of each other. I though there was some secret mode where it waited for the second ball. Either way, that’s a skill for sure
Quoted from Ricochet:There is … and there is a setting for it
Is it Standard Adjust>Allow Low Illumination>No ?
Quoted from FlippyD:Yep. First set that to YES then:
Wouldn’t you want Low Illumination to be No? Meaning don’t allow it to dim? Default is yes
It makes sense, but I’m fully LED’d and trying to avoid LED flicker. I had this issue on TOTAN and turning off the power save setting fixed it. It’s known issue LEDs don’t perform on low power. I totally makes sense why you would want this if you had the machine on location with incandescent. I’ll try that power save and just leave the Allow Dim to stock yes
Ah, ok 7 then. I think I know what was going on here. I had 3x coincidentally bad LEDs. Seems like from all the banging a couple LEDs were flickering. I just replaced them and working fine. I guess that’s how LEDs go bad.
Quoted from moat-pin:I just got mine in mail and haven't installed yet. I feel like i may screw up the POA so working up the courage to get the antidote in there...
You start taking away all the plastic & rails on the lower left side in front of the POA. Eventually the front of the POA will be exposed enough to to remove the metal. The final challenge is to remove the POA by loosening the hex/Allen bolt at the rear of the POA right where the ball drops from the bridge. Then some shimmy shimmy coco puff and it comes loose. You don’t need to remove the wires but be sure you have plenty of towels to rest the POA on or you’ll scratch everything
Quoted from Ricochet:I’ve a feeling that 80 percent of the people who have purchased and Antidote… haven’t yet installed it… for the same reason …fear of messing up the POA.
I haven’t installed mine yet cuz it’s going in the day I do the full restore. Got a PF, Backglass, Radcals, RGB Drop Targets, Airball Protectors, etc. Also mainly because my fail rate isn’t crazy but some days I might put it in early. I have lots of pictures of the procedure, it’s really not that bad. Maybe I’ll shoot a video next time
Quoted from pinballinreno:A 5 min video would be great!
Man I’m not like that Richochet, I take it nice and slow 
Maybe a 10 minute video 
Quoted from Ricochet:Don’t mind the fat boy in the video … he’s not very charismatic
Nice video. I can actually take mine off without removing the bridge. Damn you should be down to 3 minutes without that
Quoted from orlandu81:What kind of sorcery is this?
Let’s see a video!!!
Here’s the key to success (and not sure if this is stock btw) - my POA has just enough gap to turn the set screw. My Sorcery has been revealed and now you will turn into a cat
C358AE65-05A0-41FA-AC6D-43F5F6B899C5 (resized).jpegIf you’re gonna strip a bowed Playfield to straighten it, wouldn’t it make more sense to just replace it with a new one? Mine is a little bowed but when I replace it with the new one, I’ll probably have it restored. Indy problem has to be one of the most difficult pins to completely replace due to the amount of parts. I’m guessing most SuperPins
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:Yes. My Mirco IJ playfield bubbled and the paint beneath it began lifting. Bought it early last year.
Did you restore the PF shortly after getting it or did you let it cure for a bit?
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:I installed it within a couple months of getting it. I don't know if Mirco's clearcoat hardens over time if I waited longer. It must be the way it's formulated that is causing this issue, I remember someone saying Mirco was working on a reformula. I used Spraymax 2K clearcoat on my original playfield and I don't see any pooling at all, and I didn't wait 6 months to install it. That Spraymax both works and looks very nice.
Interesting. Is Spraymax acrylic? I’m fairly certain today’s clear coats suck partially because paints are all eco friendly
Ok, it appears to be acrylic. I thought the outlawed this. I used to paint cars in the early 90s before everything became water based. This would make sense why Spraymax works
https://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/
I bet Mirco is using some shitty water based clear which would explain the issues. No matter how long you let water based clear set, it will never be as strong as Acrylic
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:wow that is a game changer. I was ready to buy expensive equipment to clear coat my PF, small compressor, paint sprayer gun, etc...
How long does the can lasts once it is activated?
Let’s be clear here. Nothing beats a proper Binks sprayer and canned clear. But it does come at a cost and you need a very dedicated area to spray in. Personally I would have an auto shop do it if you don’t already have a setup. But if this worked for somebody here then go for it. Practice on something else first though. Spraying is an art and takes steady quick strokes including the proper distance.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Oddly spraymax is fairly forgiving since you always have to sand it out, every part of the process.
So you use a long block wet sand and buff out the clear?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:it seems like I am having an issue with the right flipper.
This coil had to be replaced as it was overheated and swollen and had to be replaced.
However, even with the new coil I noticed the following:
It seems to have a bit less holding power than the left
If I touch the coil, I can feel the current going through it (it sounds stupid but I feel whatever this is, magnetism? no idea, the magnetic field or the current but this is not noticeable on the left flipper.
The holding power is ok, but if a ball comes down at speed I get a micro flip and a huge bounce off the right flipper.
The right coil heats up a lot faster than the left, when on hold. In fact, the left shows no signs of heat when on hold.
EOS is new and adjusted properly, also working on switch test.
The left coil does not have these issues however holding power seems to be about the same and micro flips are not noticeable during play.
last but not least, I tested the right coil WIRED TO the left flipper and the results are the same as described above.
Bad new coil?
Post pics of both assembly’s. Also did you properly gap both?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:My Fluke 87 says 4.5 at power and 125.3 at hold
what gap? Eos gap? They seem to be perfectly set up engaging at 95% of the end of the stroke.
Doesn’t sound like you gapped it. Doesn’t seem like a big deal but it’s critical. My IJ specifically had issues with 1 flipper because of the play/gap. Here is a pic of the tool and gap. Also as part of rebuilding the flippers I always replace the bushings
44A6680B-3802-4762-A7B9-C1E701BF1B9F (resized).jpeg8315B0F2-27EC-4751-BEFC-EFB464BDF5E3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pin_Fandango:Sorry bud, it is gapped. I used that tool exactly to do it.
Well, I wired it to the other side and it does the same…
I presume that removes any concerns with the boards
Csn you post some pics of the assemblies?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I need to resolve mine, it is very frustrating.
Reject is 50/50 or more and eject is random and weak, drives me nutz. Been playing the game by avoiding modes because there is a big chance of draining after ejection, and it can randomly go to the left outlane or often sdtm…
How is the scoup supposed to work under normal operation? I dont remember it being so shitty back in the day. Is the culprit a bad coil or weak arm? Or what.
Someone please, Send some vids of a normal scoop in action please
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Do you have the Ricochet Antidote?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I am on the list for one. Will definitely get one when it’s my turn.
How fast should the ball be ejected off the scoup? I find the ejection a bit weak? Is it normal?
I’ve messed with the stock eject & metal scoop backing with very little luck. I’d seriously wait for the antidote. I hacked a scoop which helped but it’s still not 100%. So unless you want to jack up your game I’d consider just waiting for the Antidote
The eject is not super fast, just a standard kick. If you lift the PF it should be free and clear when you pull it manually. If it’s rough then you might need to clean/grease the shaft. There is a spring so it does have some tension from that
Awesome, thanks. I have some random subway sticking issues and this looks like a good solution. You should call it the “Chachapoyan Warriors Boulder Speed Ramp”
Quoted from Wob76:Haha, Nice, way more inventive than my name I just updated the description. Please post and make or comments on Thingiverse, it has had plenty of views and downloads but I am yet to see someone make it. It's an easy print, mine is in ABS but should be fine down in PLA, I probably wouldn't go PETG as I tried something else in PETG and it failed almost instantly.
I made a lock hole protector that is holding up well, my hole was a little beat up https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3812663, again printed in ABS
Lastly there was a mode hole protector, as I couldn't source a cliffy at the time, this didn't fair so well, it's just too thin and broke after awhile. I tried it in TPU but it just didn't really offer any protection as again too thin, I did get a friend with a SLA printer to do it in a couple of types of resin but I have yet to try them out. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3812654
I modelled all the above from my machine, the subway is a remix\merge of two existing items, just customised for mounting in the subway, the others where modelled from scratch with several iterations to get the fit right, your millage may vary depending on tolerances but they are all quick and easy to print if you have a printer.
Cheers,
Wob
Oh nice. I wonder if the mode lock protector will work with The Antidote? I’ve had issues with every type of cliffy I’ve installed there
I basically lowered my eject scoop (which is what that kit does) and it helps a little but it’s not a solution
Quoted from PeterG:The issue with such a huge cave is that you need a lot of people to fill it and get is a bit cosy.
But do you really? Oh man, I could be in there by myself and have a ball. The reality is tho, I’d quit my day job and charge money to have underground debauchery every night
Quoted from darden78:i'm the italian guy you're speaking about...
B97743B8-446E-4B6F-A2B1-22E4747E5AB2.gifQuoted from Ashram56:Did you try ShipNex ? That's a freight forwarder, and I got a 60% discount over Fedex price (even though it was actually FedEx who picked it up) when shipping 60lbs from US to France (30kg) (cost me 230 dollars). It's probably worth only if you pack multiple units together though, maybe one of the american pinsider would be willing to do a group buy to save on shipment cost.
Or get Cointaker to do a bulk deal with him. They sell the TBL lighted Aprons here in the US through Dutch Pinball in Europe. Either way we’re talking Indy here, I think a couple people would pay shipping premium. Does that Apron light up?
D51CFD33-FE3A-43A6-BAF1-751A1B30419F.jpegOn Data East’s you need the power booster, there’s not one available I’m aware of for Williams. With that said, I have both ColorDMD & Pinsounds and it runs fine but sound does clip at high volumes
Quoted from pinballinreno:No more reset board.
Its a quick and easy way to get the game up and running without actually fixing the problems with the power supply section of the driver board.
As soon as its feasible the board should be sent in and repaired properly, or swapped out and sent in to a qualified repair person.
I like Chris Hibler.
What’s generally wrong with the power supply section of the driver board that causes resets?
I find Indy has to be perfect. Centered of course before adjusting POA or you’ll be doing it again. I also find 6.5 on the money for several reasons. For me, The POA drop skips if it’s lower than 6.5. The outer orbit hits the slings if too low as well, shot needs some speed. 7.0 affects your ability to hit the big ramp. At 6.5, POA drops work great, Outer orbit can be hit multiple times in a row, and ramp is doable
Quoted from orlandu81:This is a good post. The only thing I would add is that there are so many factors at play that once you find a spot for the machine, you will need to tune it everywhere. Once leveled and at the pitch you are comfortable with, you may need to adjust your POA, and especially your outer orbit guides to get the machine fully tuned in. Then if you move the machine, just re-level it and remember the pitch you like and you shouldn't have to touch the POA and orbit guides again.
Exactly. That’s pretty much what I meant. Once it’s dialed for all those factors (I forgot to include the subway ramp. At a lower pitch the ball hangs sometimes). When all these items are tweaked and dialed and everything is working, save that exact pitch setting. That is YOUR Indy pins setting. I find this unique to Indy because of the amount of items that depend on pitch & tweaks. I find any other machine fairly forgiving if you go up or down 2-5 degrees
I find if there is too little lean, the ball will continue around the bridge ramp after the post drops. If you lift the table higher it drops fine. I’ve seen tweaks fir the bridge but prefer stock with 6.5 lean vs 6.0 and bridge tilt
Ha! Congrats. It’s very elusive. I’ve only ever got it once as well, I thought I missed the final switch be for the second to last ball drained and I looked up 1 Billion Red Banner! So cool. I almost got there last week. Had 2 balls trapped and all I needed was the left ramp. Way too easy and I bricked and right out the left outlane! Agony of defeat! This will be the last pin standing when it comes time to sell everything else
Quoted from Ricochet:Sorry my man … my “fun life” is wrecked at the moment… My real work pulls me away every few months … ton of crap goin on. I need to get some more units out!
Didn’t you consign some other part with Cliffy? Maybe you should team up? This product is a hit and should be patented
Quoted from Ricochet:It’s not that complicated … my situation at my work is pretty miserable. I literally need a day. It’s coming.
I do very much appreciate the offer to help out!!!
Sounds like you work for my company 
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Wilmington, DE