Wood River, IL
I am picking up PAPA's IJPA tomorrow and it has badly faded cabinet art.
What are my current options for purchasing new IJPA cabinet art?
(Topic ID: 68869)
Linked Games
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
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I'm pretty stoked to be in the club. It's an awesome pin. That 34 hour round trip nonstop drive wasn't much fun though.
Had a credit dot on my PAPA IJPA for the drop bank and reflowed the solder on the opto board and she's 100% now.
However, the two door switches, one is laying loose in the bottom of the cabinet (for the coil/high voltage) but the switch is wired so that the high voltage is on when the switch is not depressed and off when the switch is depressed... While I was electrified to purchase this pin I was shocked to see that (sorry puns).
Quoted from Manny65:Yes B/W introduced the high voltage lockout switch in the early 90's but you need a little clip (service switch actuator) to hold the switch button in if needing to do service work (flashers or solenoids) with the coin door open. Newer games have switches that you can simply pull the button out to have the power on with the coin door open and is much easier. I'm guessing the PAPA guys found it just easier to remove the switch from the door and not muck around with the service switch actuator clip but they would have had to tape the button in for it to work.
But this switch is the opposite. When depressed the switch cuts coil power and when not depressed there is coil power
Went to pull my POA to shop my recently purchased Papa IJPA and someone broke a hex wrench off in the set screw 
Gonna be fun trying to get that bugger out.
Quoted from plovis:Man, I just had to deal with that exact thing recently. Fortunately a couple taps with a tack hammer and an awl got the broken tip right out.
Just picked up a screw extractor set, do you know what size that set screw is?
Quoted from Manny65:You can find this info in the parts list - you can download it from IPDB
4008-01083-04 "ss 8-32x1/4 sh-cp-n"
Fixing it is a no go. The allen wrench that is broken off in the set screw is harder than the screw itself and the collar. So I'll just be pulling the motor assembly with the POA from now on.
I got my Indy from Papa about a month ago and have been reading this entire thread from start to finish (on page 89 of 155).
Thinking about doing the pinsound sound upgrade and apparently the best sound file package for indy isn't available anymore?
Quoted from Manny65:That's interesting - I checked out my machines which vary (not all machines were for Australia when manufactured) however I'm wondering whether it was to do with the machine configuration as the same game was produced with different coin doors and default languages (the WPC89 CPU board used 0 ohm resistors/jumpers on W11-W18 to set the language) - hence needing different hardware BOMs when being manufactured and they used the model number to signify this??
With the WPC-S and WPC-95 boards the default language setting were change to DIP switches, but even then they needed to be set in a particular way. Also they still had all their coin door variants
My Indy is apparently a reiimport from Germany.. (German is the default after reset) can I set English as the default with the dip switches?
I have now read this entire topic. For new joiners here is a quick summary.
I got an IJPA
Mode saucer, mode saucer? MODE SAUCER!!
Mod? Mod. Mod? Mod. Mod? MOD!!
FOAM!!!
Airballs!
TEAM FADE
Help? POA diode. Help? POA diode. help!! Tried x, tried y, tried Z HELP! POA diode. Update it was the POA diode
Gold, gold GOLD!!! GOLD!!!!!!
LCD or LED... pin sound!
Quoted from orlandu81:I laughed out loud, this is great! Now that you have read and seen the full cycle, what team are you on for each topic? You need to tell us so we can all judge you for your choices Oh and welcome to the club, I'm LCD display, Pinsound, LED bulbs and foamless...and I am guilty of the POA diode issue on multiple occasions. Nice to meet you and enjoy the magnificence of this great machine.
Where I stand on the important issues
1) Just put in the colorDMD LCD literally 3 minutes ago
2) Team Fade
3) Full led, no garish colors, soft warm white
4) Mode Saucer - Stock bracket, stock position. 90% stick rate
5) Ordered Davi's airball protectors
6) Stripped/Jammed POA set screw, can't get top left switch
7) Stock sound, going with pinovators bill validator headphone jack (don't want diners disturbed by pin speakers)
8) No playfield mods that don't have a direct impact on gameplay
9) 6.5 degrees
10) Soft blue led in the three hand of fate inserts so I'm not blinded by their omnipotent illumination.
I know that this bullet list is highly controversial and that some pinsiders will find my stance difficult to reconcile with their own tightly held belief system.
But let this post serve as a call to unity among IJPA owners, modder or non modder, incandescent or led, even the heretic back stop removing mode hole foamers. Let us gather hands in unison and bow to the one true deity Bally/Williams and from this day forth I declare the month of August to be sacrosanct. For it was August (in the year of 1993) that the one true deity deigned us worthy.
During the scared month whilst the true believers forsake the pagan SAM and SPIKE. So too shall they shun SPIKE II. Yeah, verily, during this month shall even your false idol GnR's be unplugged from the wall lest they be powered on and accidentally permitted a brief display of attract mode.
So it is written, so shall it be.
Quoted from plovis:Well this was fantastic.
Also, heretic mode hole foamers unite!
I am but a messenger showing the path.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Coyohtay:Anyone know where to get the center white bi-plane bent wire mount? My machine had the biplane mounted on a threaded stalk instead of the spring and that keeps breaking because of airballs. So far, everyone that has that items says out of stock.
You need davi’s air all protectors
My POA ball stop rod is dropping as soon as the POA is a play option rather than when the ball makes it up to the switch in front of the rod
Suggestions?
3 weeks later
I have an issue with my POA ball stop post. Intermittently the stop post will drop as soon as the POA becomes available. I have to turn off/turn on the machine to correct it.
The post isn’t binding and operates fine in tests.
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Maybe the switch isn’t working/stuck on. Maybe run a test and see if it functions correctly
[quoted image]
it functions correctly in tests. I think it’s moving with the diverter but it isn’t consistent
4 weeks later
Quoted from Joost996me:Fixed it? Had the same problem. Cleaned the coil and core of the plunger and works like a charm now...
I actually think that my POA was failing in startup tests and the machine was dropping the post to bypass the POA because of that.
What specifically does the POA check during the test. I will dj the test and when I love the POA left and right the two optos activate as they should and the POA has full range of motion and the it will show “bad” at the top
1 week later
Quoted from brickbuilder14:I think I solved it. LED 1 on my Trough board does not light up. So I am going to replace it and hope that fixes the issue. Thanks guys!
[quoted image]
I’m no expert but I will give my uninformed opinion anyway. Your 12v supply to your opto is sagging causing it to act funny. You said you had very pronounced dimming in your GI lights when hitting the flippers?
1 week later
Path of Adventure test question.
What, specifically, is being tested when you run a POA test (either in test menu or machine startup).
When I run a POA test, both opto's activate as they should as the playfield tilts each direction but the test ends up failed. During gameplay the machine compensates for the failed test by dropping the POA ball stop when the POA ramp diverter activates.
2 weeks later
First time to wizard mode and missed the billion by 4 POA lights. Had one ball cradled and hit the POA ramp and the ball got to that point on the ramp where it could go to the POA or come back SDTM.
STDM it was
D7086555-08D4-4ED7-827E-EDAD9A4E57CB (resized).png 3 weeks later
Quoted from Ricochet:Nice!
While it’s impossible to guarantee 100% stick rate ... it has to feel like an improvement and worth your $$
Please add me to the list
9 months later
Just picked up our second IJPA which will be getting a full restoration. Who makes the best cabinet decals?
2 months later
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Yes, Davi is one who I reached out to initially. He didn’t have anymore, but told me to check with Korn. So now Korn is checking for me.
Did you hear back? I put a Davi set on my IJPA but now I have 2 IJPA’s and need another ser
3 months later
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:Finally landed one of these. Any recommended mods for this game?
[quoted image][quoted image]
ColorDMD, Flipper Fidelity speaker upgrade, Davi's airball protector, Lao's Antidote (if your mode hole rejects alot of shots).
All of these fundamentally improve the game experience in some way.
2 months later
Quoted from MMP:You're missing a U-shaped metal piece between the ramp and plastic.
[quoted image]
Anyone know the part number for this metal piece?
pasted_image (resized).png 1 month later
This obvious HUO example with factory thumb wear patina on the coin slots needed very little in the way of rehab. This was one of those legless project pins that popped up on facebook in STL over the summer.
Just a few odds and ends and it's completed.
Stunning factory thumb wear on the coin door. This fine patina an obvious indicator that this is HUO308350831_158091633565189_4878686317361193321_n (resized).jpg308407239_158091626898523_5371726173324211162_n (resized).jpg308412199_158091620231857_8050998220527700133_n (resized).jpgf4cef58db7b2ea7d9d68ad2ebab06ca17daa1bbe (resized).jpgf56252c213a09be1e3c5aed1d953778c6ca2c2db (resized).jpgIMG_0539 (resized).jpgIMG_0540 (resized).jpgIMG_0591 (resized).jpgIMG_0644 (resized).jpg69396132655__D1201AF8-6C18-4DD8-890B-6E6E8423E6D7 (resized).jpg28a7d18b1c514e3e31ebd346eccc78519e9cc704 (resized).jpgac7fe08d97d4412a1001c281bb3da420d06956da (resized).jpg
1 month later
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Sure absolutely that is an option but that wasn't exactly what was asked. If you're going to go through all that trouble though, you might as well just do it right. I just don't do body work to a sticker vs the base wood of the cabinet. If you want to do a quickie job then yea, you can paint the decals black. Obviously if you have some significant defects in the cabinet, it's going to take some additional effort.
This is why I would value a pin with radcals lower than one without. Radcals can easily cover up shoddy/ half assed restoration work.
3 months later
Getting ready to rebuild my IJPA and I'm torn between decals and radcals. Has anyone put IJPA Radcals on a black cabinet? Does the black affect the appearance of the radcals?
4 months later
Quoted from orlandu81:Here is a short video of it getting "stuck" in test mode. This was one intermittent experience earlier it is not like this each time. Sometimes it will shift right and stay there, and not move back at all. This prompts the 94 and 95 switch error and requires me to manually nudge it back to the middle position and then it works great for a while - sometimes days or even a week or two. The only consistent thing with this issue is that when it does get stuck, it is always getting stuck in the same spot, tilted to the right and almost always just when I turn the machine on cold.
My mini playfield gearbox does NOT sound like that.
Quoted from orlandu81:I just changed it out, problem may be solved (need more time to test). The new motor sounds exactly the same as the old one, so I'm not sure the sound was the issue.
did you swap the motor or the entire motor/gearbox?
2 months later
Quoted from SiN13:Running into an issue today when I turned my machine on that I could use some help with. I've seen something similar like this before that seemed to clear itself up after I ran a ball through the subway.
Basically what happened is I turned the game on and instantly heard some coils firing over and over. It looks like the 3 bank drop target fired it's coil like 3 times, then the vuk for the idol lock started firing repeatedly on a loop. Then the game started launching all the balls out of the trough over and over. I attempted to play a game with the balls launching over and over but once the balls went down in the subway they stayed trapped down there.
I tried going into the test menu. I got an error about the mini playfield. I attempted to run the test for the mini playfield and the idol and neither motors runs and it says they are both bad.
Seems odd to see a number of weird things happening all at once so their must be a root cause to it all. I could use some help trying to figure out what is going on.
Sounds like no optos are registering. Check your 12v power/f116
You CAN NOT “visually inspect” fuses. Bad fuses may look fine.
J116, 117 and 118 are your 12v power source. If reseating those temporarily fixed the problem those pins/connectors need serviced (reflowed and/or repinned)
Quoted from SiN13:Outside of a fuse being in good working condition or being blown, can it be in a state where sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't?
It can. Loose fuse holder or the holder having bad solder joint to the board.
Quoted from SiN13:Since we're here talking shop, I'd also really like to get a better understanding of what some of these boards do on the underside of the playfield if someone could give a quick one sentence description for each. I've tried to look these things up before but most of the results I get for them are sites selling replacement boards and nothing that explains what they do. I can sort of infer from the name an idea of what they might do but I'd like to have a clearer understanding.
Motor EMI Board
Bridge Driver PC Board
10-Switch Opto Assembly
Opto Ramp Switch Board
Start with the manual
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1267/Williams_1993_Indiana_Jones_The_Pinball_Adventure_English_Manual.pdf
And pinwiki
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC
And this guide
https://web.archive.org/web/20040301163506/http://marvin3m.com/wpc/index.htm
2 weeks later
TZ and IJPA do not use the same sound board.
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