(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

7 years ago


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  • 9,123 posts
  • 549 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Williampinball
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#19 7 years ago

I got the billion the second time I made ELM. Been there once since then and didn't get come close (no upper pf). I generally play for modes and avoid ball locks unless the dogfight hurry up is active. That keeps multiball spread out and doesn't spoil the fun by over playing it. Also really love the 2-ball captive ball mode. Never gotten all the awards but I'm pretty sure I got 5 or 6 once. I've also racked up some big points hitting orbit combos, which is hard to believe considering how tight the orbits are. Only thing is sometimes you get software bugs like if you've completed Path of Adventure too many time and then you start The 3 Challenges, the target rotates through the mini pf and makes it nearly impossible to get even one. I also extended the timer on some modes so I actually have a shot at completing them, considering this game is notorious for playing "keep away" with your flippers. Confession, I'm less than 50% completing Mine Cart, but I'm getting better at it.

8 months later
#167 7 years ago

C'mon guys, give that brain some exercise! I beat the cart mode in back-to-back games last night. I also have the chalice game set to hard but almost never miss it (which is too bad, love losing). When I first got the game I thought mine cart was impossible, then I just got better at it. I'm still probably only about 25% on it. For Frog mode, a quick online search says, "you need to start the game with both flipper buttons pressed, and then follow the mine cart mode to crash through the fourth barrier on the right side that shows up." Never done it myself, must try it.

If you want a real challenge, see if you can collect all the prizes from the quick multiball. I've only done it once. It does carry over throughout the game, but that's a lot of captive ball shots.

#170 7 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

So what's the end of challenge video and audio?
You should make a video and post it. I'm thinking it's impossible........like the bar mode.

You wouldn't really want a spoiler, would you? Although if you've had it for 12 years...
Maybe in a couple weeks, no access right now. Could do the bar mode as well, although really that one's not that hard. Seems like you just hope the guys don't keep popping up on opposite ends of the bar.

2 months later
#249 7 years ago

I would try a few LED's first and see what you think. I tried warm white in a couple inserts and although it's a little brighter, it loses the fade effect. So I just left mine stock incandescent except for the green flashers. ColorDMD is awesome, and I'm spoiled now with Invisiglass. Lost plastic is a must.

2 months later
#355 6 years ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

So really...how many folks have been able to start all 12 modes in one game? Really curious, as I never get close.

2x in one game, although I didn't get the Billion points in either ELMB.

2 months later
#503 6 years ago
Quoted from HENSBROOKER:

Oke, now I have an issue to resolve:
- For some reason when getting "Quick Two Ball" Multiball awarded from Hand of Faith (bonus) the multiball won't start. Other bonuses are just awarded like they should.
Any idea what could be wrong?

Seems like I've seen that on mine and figured it was a software bug.

1 month later
#534 6 years ago
Quoted from sd_tom:

There is beige dot on the side wall. I had some left over from protecting playfield from the bottom of ngg slam ramp
amazon.com link »
Unfortunately I still am having cases (rarer at least) where the ball goes down left even with ramp all the way right.. Well, will try again next year. I know people have suggest moving the jackpot sign lower to give ramp more room to go right but I'd have to cut a notch in jungle plastic for that right?

I don't remember my exact technique but the idea is to make sure it always goes right when tilted right, by adjusting the tabs. But then you'll see times when it will go right when it should go left. To fix that, put a small rectangle of drop dead foam (or similar) on the left tab, and it should hang down a little below the tab. This will prevent it from bouncing to the right.

Note: Always test this by placing the ball on the above metal ramp and letting it drop down. Test at least 300 times.

#537 6 years ago

The velcro on the right guide isn't 100% so I need to tweak it again, maybe like the felt dot in the above post. My POA is steep though, and I'd like to keep it that way. No washers on the front and the back legs are all the way up.

I might have bent the back metal ramp down a bit to ensure the ball didn't skip past the POA drop. It's been a while since I was adjusting that ramp but I know I used to have the problem and don't any more.

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2 months later
#600 6 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

If I may, can I ask, are the 2 lights for the left and right inlanes supposed to stay on? mine are permanently lit - don't know if I should test transistors or not.
It's probably been covered, but is there a way of reducing airballs from the centre ENT targets?
For starting the pathway mode - if my pathway is tilted to the left, the ball doesn't enter it, it just goes down the left edge ramp. Is this normal?

The inlane inserts are actually on the GI string. Very unusual.

I replaced my right flipper coil with the step down and it helps with airballs of ENT and increases the odds of mode starts sticking (I rarely get rejects, but I also have foam on the deflector and I drop the saucer using washers underneath the pf). Nothing you can do about airballs off the left flipper, but the software has a ball save compensation (comes in handy during Idol).

The ball should never skip past the POA. Check the side to side pitch of the game. Also try and make sure the back metal ramp is ever so slightly tilted down in the front. You might have to bend it if possible.

10 months later
#925 5 years ago
Quoted from Astropin:

Finally got her put back together!! (new decals, trim, legs & door powder coated in bronze metallic....looks better in person):

Sweet. I need to decal the right head.
My STTNG is also a reimport with a French coin door.

4 months later
#1047 5 years ago
Quoted from robertg130:

My IJ,all cab redone,pin is a beauty just need some leds and mods
And the fn start mode hole fix

I use a 15411 coil for the right flipper. It's plenty strong to make the left ramp and left orbit, but helps with the mode start scoop. I did add padding to the deflector and dropped the saucer assembly with washers. Every once in a while I'll get a bounce out but not often.

11 months later
#2329 4 years ago

Does anybody that removed their metal deflector at the mode start scoop like to sell it? I need one for Popeye and it's the same part, 01-11160. Marco has it listed for $5 but is out of stock and I can't find anyone that has it. Thanks!

3 years later
#8688 80 days ago

If the POA stutters in game but not in test mode, then is the problem most likely the motor opto board? Does anybody know the part number for those U optos? I can get it to and figure it out but maybe someone already knows. I know I can get a replacement board but just the optos would be cheaper.

#8691 80 days ago
Quoted from Hans_Saris:

Would try cleaning / checking flipper optos first if is working in test mode.

I can check that easily be swapping left/right boards, as it stutters to the right but not the left.
I'll also clean those and the motor optos but my experience is that cleaning doesn't work and it's always a failed opto.

#8693 79 days ago

Further testing revealed the stutter occurs in test mode as well. So I believe that points to the bridge driver board (A-15946), correct? I also tested both the flipper optos and the POA optos in test mode with a piece of paper and didn't see any flakiness.

#8695 79 days ago

I found it strange that pressing the flipper buttons did not trigger the upper flipper switches. Granted there aren't upper flippers, but I thought the switches would still register. Maybe it's just coded that way in software.

Sold my JJP POTC to get this, and although POTC is an amazing game, the Fliptronics flippers are just so much better. I had to crank the right flipper to max on that game to get up the left orbit, whereas on IJ, the orbit shots go blazing fast. More satisfying mechanically. Still, if JJP were to remake that game, I'd be back in (but sell something other than IJ).

#8780 72 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

not to take away from the great work done by Ricochet.. I am just wondering if this is legit:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-williams-indiana-jones-1993-saucer-lock-em-kit#post-5852296

I have that kit and am currently in testing (waiting for a POA opto to arrive so game is partly disassembled). In addition to just installing the kit, I did have to remove and slightly bend the deflector plate downward. But I've had numerous shots to the mode scoop with that setup and had no rejects. So it may turn out to be another perfectly viable option. I will report back after more extensive testing later this week.

#8786 71 days ago
Quoted from spidey:

I have that kit and am currently in testing (waiting for a POA opto to arrive so game is partly disassembled). In addition to just installing the kit, I did have to remove and slightly bend the deflector plate downward. But I've had numerous shots to the mode scoop with that setup and had no rejects. So it may turn out to be another perfectly viable option. I will report back after more extensive testing later this week.

So this is working about 4 out of 5 times. Will try the antidote once it's available.

#8787 71 days ago
Quoted from spidey:

Further testing revealed the stutter occurs in test mode as well. So I believe that points to the bridge driver board (A-15946), correct? I also tested both the flipper optos and the POA optos in test mode with a piece of paper and didn't see any flakiness.

New POA opto board fixed the stuttering. Now to learn how to make these super tight shots!

1 week later
#8888 59 days ago
Quoted from gorditas:

Officially joined the club yesterday, finished setting up the machine around midnight. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on PinSound and Color DMD. I've done some searching on this forum, and don't have a definitive answer: do I need to plan on a auxiliary P/S for those mods? The game has been converted to LED, so I am sure the power draw has dropped some, but don't know if it adds up to enough margin. I'm probably going to buy the LED OCD boards as well. Some of the inserts and flashers are just too bright. Test mode definitely shows flickering.
I'm happy to take advice, even if it is just in the form of a keyword that I need to search for.
BTW, I laugh every time I hear, "You cheat, Dr. Jones!"
[quoted image]

No extra Power supply needed.
I also like the shaker that’s part of the Pinsound package. Also be sure and upgrade all the speakers and get their stereo speaker harness.

1 month later
#9112 9 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I really need an antidote in my IJ, the game is a bit frustrating sometimes when I get 8 rejects in a row to then drain...
Anybody with a spare antidote that would like to pass along?

I bought the scoop drop kit from Caucasian2Step and it works pretty well. I can still get a reject on a perfect shot but the vast majority of time it works great. I just have a lot of saucer kick out to left sling to right outlane occurrences that I’m not sure how to solve.

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