All right team ... I removed my 3-drop mech and cleaned it up and reassembled it. Then when I turn the game back on, I get these errors:

Adve(n)ture (middle drop switch)
Left ramp made
3-drop Coil failure
Adventu(r)e target

I believe all of these share a Blue wire (as ground, I think?). Several appear to be flipper grounded switches. I have not had to deal with this before - the blue wire seems to go from the flipper to the back box and I’m not sure what to do next. The 3-drop circuit board has a lit LED, and the coil fires in test mode.

I checked for a loose wire, don’t see anything obvious... i have not done anything besides raise the PF and opener the BB, but did not remove anything except that mech and it’s associated connector. So... any ideas?

Thanks for the reply! I had everything removed from the game when I was working on it. I think I’ve narrowed down the problem to the orange grounding wire that goes up to the flippertronic board, but I am not exactly sure what the problem is. The two switches that are failing (52 and F8) share that ground wire so i think it’s somehow related to that. I’m going to try shorting it to bypass the onto board and see if that at least gets the switches working

Gee looks pretty good to me

Anybody had a problem with the Adve(n)ture target and the left ramp made switch? Both of these are not working on my game and I just replaced the opto board for the ENT drop targets so I know it’s not that. I believe their ground wire is connected so it might be that, but I don’t get why it’s only those 2 switches.

Wiring seems intact, not sure what makes sense to check next.

Wow! Outstanding

You can use the Pinball Pro speakers, but unless you have the PinSound Stereo cable, you'll have to re-pin the connector (it's easy to figure out - 3 speakers, 6 wires). Also you'll want to remove the L-PAD entirely, as the bass/treble mix is handled on the PinSound board. For the trouble it takes, it may be worth the $20 just to buy the cable.

I don't have the Jackpot board (it's just 3 LEDs, right?) but I have a ColorDMD and the PinSound board - game runs perfectly. If you are getting resets, it's worth replacing some of the components on your PDB - #1 thing would be replacing the voltage regulator LM323K - if you replace that with a EZ-SBC PSU5, there's no heat from the PDB and everything runs super smoothly. Amazing damn upgrade. This affects the 5V not the 12V (which the pinsound runs off of) but is a way to stabilize the PDB.

Sorry, I wasn't clear: I am not running an external PS; all stock

So... what are the “lower lights”? Do you mean the 3 treasures mod that lights the Ark, the Stone and the Grail?

Those are really cool - expect a PM!

According to this, PC is superior to ABS in every measurable property listed
https://www.makeitfrom.com/compare/Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene-ABS/Polycarbonate-PC

Ok, 2 things -

1) you're missing a connector. You should have 1 connector from the backbox, and one from the cabinet. I'm guessing yuo may have plugged the cabinet one into the header intended for the backbox (I can't remember which is which, but it's marked onthe board)

2) you really should do yourself a favor and make/buy a Stereo cable. It is DRAMATICALLY better. That way you can dial in the sound perfectly - more treble in the backbox, more thump from the cabinet, or however you roll. The OST mix (and Endprodukt's ultimate mix) really benefit from stereo

So WPC games aren't wired in stereo - DCS games have WAY better sound than earlier WPC89 games, but it's still mono.

The backbox speakers are basically putting out the same sound, there's no 'left' and 'right' sounds, they're identical. Anyway, the sounds in the upgraded PInsound mixes have distinct left and right channels (they're stereo, in other words), and you can't hear the difference unless you use the stereo cable, and also switch the pinsound board to the 'stereo' setting. It's very cool to hear the gunshots and the soundtrack in actual stereo.

The other reason is the Backbox treble/bass/volume knobs on the board don't have any effect unless you use the stereo cable. If that's in use, you can set separate volumes for the backbox - dial up the cabinet volume way high, for example, and turn up the treble for the backbox, but put the volume down. It's really customizable

Yes please buy the Pinsound one! You will be disappointed when you try to install that one you post the pic of! Haha

Yikes, could be. I’d double check your connections. ColorDMD and Pinsound put a lot of strain on the power supply; a lot of people have added standard arcade power supplies. If your power board is starting to have issues, you would definitely see it when you install both. Are you getting any resets? Usually the game will trip the watchdog circuit if you’re overloading it.

For what it’s worth, my game has both installed and I do not use an external power supply for the PinSound. Like I said, check your connections firsr

Yep that’s how it works - there is no micro controller that flashes it or whatever. It wouldn’t be hard to tie into GI or inserts if you wanted

Retrorefurbs is your only option

He's saying the Crystal Skull movie sucked so he wouldn't put it on his machine. Crystal Skull wasn't made at the time Indy TPA came out

Does anybody know what J118 powers on their game? I am trying to diagnose a weird problem where fuse F116 blows when I hit the flipper button. When I disconnect J118, this doesn't happen.. but the flippers don't fire either. I am trying to see if my game was set up incorrectly, and get it to stop blowing the darn fuse!

Pretty sure he was joking

HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended. This makes the game go from air ball city to a super Smoooooooth shooter

So I’m still having this issue with my IJ - it is definitely something in the flipper signal path. I reversed the flipper optos, and F116 still blows.

Also unplugged the connector from the left flipper opto, and it does not blow. So something in that path is causing the problem, but I can not figure out what.

I replaced BR5 in case that was the problem. It tested ok, but I replaced it anyway. Still no luck.

The grey/yellow wire seems to be the culprit but I am not sure what else to look at.

One other thing I noticed was that the German plane’s LEDs are constantly lit, so could a transistor have blown on the PDB? How would this affect the flippers.

Test says the left flipper opto is out when I disconnect J118, so the flippers are going through that connector. That seems weird, but it does look like the manual confirms it, if I’m reading it right. Any ideas? The other threads here have focused on a short in the game but I am fairly certain I have a blown component somewhere

Nope. Runs fine with both on mine. You really need a solid PDB but the game will handle the load fine. Suggest getting the latest PinSound mix and donating...

My game also has LEDs and the LEDOCD so it would seem there is headroom.

Well, I stole the LCD from my MB which I am restoring/refurbishing. I love the look of the LED but it’s not cut out for every game. Looks smashing on DW; I could take it or leave it on other games.

Personally IJ looks best to me with scanlines; looks most like those old
vhs tapes I first saw these movies on!!

The ColorDMD setting “scan” - that’s what it refers to. Makes it look more like an old CRT. I like it better than the “hi-res”

This depends on which jackpot board you have, and how your
Speaker panel is routed -
I have the PindoraBox board which is very low
Profile, and does fit with the colordmd

I’d consider trading mine for a DILE

Davi have you considered approximately how much it will be? $20? $60? $100? I could not tell from previous posts.

That helps a lot - put me on the list!

Those kits are an incredibly beneficial investment, makes your game look almost new!

Has anyone figured out a solution to the ball popping off the left wireform? That happens to me constantly and it is damn annoying, especially when it bumps out right near the end and drains to the outlane.

Also, how about the lane to that single drop target/captive ball? My game goes SDTM all the time from there.

HAD different legs, right? Isn’t it gone now? Indy has had to make room for Toy Story and Star Wars and (WHYYYY??!?!?!) Avatarland

Thanks, do
You have a pic?

Sidebar: my DJShakes anti-airball plastic (for the single drop target) broke in spectacular fashion last night. That was working perfectly before! Real bummer.

Awesome, I think I get it, thanks!!

Will do!

Looking pretty good! Is that a model or die-cast?

I’m curious about what questions you have

If you bought it a couple months ago you have the original one. Make sure your firmware is up to date; the new board has a couple of new things but it generally works the same as the new one, no need to uograde

Did anything ever happen with this? Davi did you find a supplier?

What did you expect? This is how literally every single DMD game works

Well done! That looks GREAT!

I think he said he used foam to cover the gap

He means in between the cutouts on the back of the board he put a piece of foam, which makes it hard for any light to bleed between, when say the Stones are lit but the Ark is not, the Ark won’t have any weird light bleeding in

Any pictures? My game is full LED but has a weird yellow hue to it, which I don’t like.

Wow, what a beauty! I can tell I have some work to do. Just getting into powdercoating another game so I thought I’d try the lock bar. Not quite as flashy as the plating, but I get parts back WAY faster. Lockbar by Robertstone0407

One of the pics also shows off some astonishing work by modfather

Every time I walk by the game I am impressed by his work.

C0445BE4-F588-4E06-BE6B-EDB2EB29E104 (resized).jpeg

6B79D98A-55FC-455C-9BAE-45D2F26F5310 (resized).jpeg

3E8B4CB2-CA0F-4B7B-93DC-0A2A6B6E5321 (resized).jpeg

Have a set of black mirror blades and no game to put them on. Has anyone installed these on indy? I am not sure if it Will look killer or if I should just wait..

Did you try reversing the Opto boards like LTG suggested in the other thread? There's a bunch of things it could be

Move the board on the side that's not working to the other side And see if it works there. If it works you've eliminated the board from. Being a problem.

Well you can Silicone lube it (I know, I know...). I’d take it apart and clean it. The spring may be bad too. Mine had tons of gunk in there that was not visible until I disassembled it. Barring that, the targets do get worn/deformed. You may be able to get it back in shape but the Lube helps until you get a replacement

Unless you’re going the pinnovators type route and doing an extensive (destructive) install, id recommend the bottom of the cab-run-a-wire-through-the-vent method, which is reversible

It’s expensive because it’s a big add-on board that they are basically just reselling - it’s an ingenious solution with an off-the-shelf product, IMO, but that’s the reason it’s a big pricey. Works real well though, and sounds GREAT (provided you have an upgraded mix or are playing a DCS-or-later game)

Folks-

I believe I am having an issue where my POA is not rotating all the way; several friends who have come over have commented on this - I’ve not played IJ elsewhere to know better. I’ve removed the POA and aligned it correctly as far as I can tell.

So 1) is there a way to test the rotation and see if it’s going the full amount? (E.g. is there a marker on the PF I can measure against or something?)

2) the optos all seem to be working, but can something throw them off somehow?

3) test performs fine when it goes back and forth; the optos fire on both sides

4) several people have commented on needing to replace one of the POA boards, but I am not sure which one

So was I

Thanks - I am pretty sure I did this but I will check again..

Fascinating - but not surprising! This game needs to many tweaks. I will try it Monday..

Ball lock shot doesn’t really need it - the ball doesn’t tear up the edge like it does on other games. I was just commenting on this myself earlier today. Mode hole does need it sometimes.

Yep

The delays are a result of the pinsound board not getting enough power, so you can add an arcade power converter which helps. I believe also that the Ollie mix has too many files that need to be managed, and it may help by reducing the number in each folder. He stuffed the mix with TONS of callouts, and the board only has so much memory so it’s maxed out. Killer mix though.

Also make sure you get the one directly from him, not the halfass version on the PinSound community forum.

And yes the proper one has a jackpot callout.

Also also, some users are reporting issues with the PinSound+ board and the fancy IJ mix, although we have not figured out exactly what the issue is.

For what it’s worth, the LED strip is FAR less work and is definitely more effective to light the lost plastic area. Save yourself a lot of headaches pulling out pops