Ricochet - I'm in for one too. As a new owner of IJ, this was top of my list to fix, so your timing is perfect!
Thanks for making these.

Davi count me in for one too please!

Need some help with my jackpot board purchased from Marco. No instructions, but from what I've found thru the forum search it plugs into J133 and 137.
Lights on the jackpot board do not work, the rest of the lights on the game are working fine. I've attached some photos to see if anybody notices something out of place or wrong. I checked continuity between the jackpot board solder points and corresponding 2 molex plugs.

Just trying to rule out anything obvious before I reach out to Marco.

Thank you!

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Davi and pinballinreno - Thank you for taking the time to check and reply. If I do a battery test, where would I apply voltage, and would a 9v battery work?

Great catch! Thank you! I think I can fix this, although the desolder/solder is on the topside of the board, so it will be a challenge. Do I rotate the LEDs 180 degrees then?

Need to rotate them 90 degrees. Thanks everyone for the help!

Reporting back that I got the board fixed! Rotating the LEDs was the issue, they were incorrectly assembled. Thanks to everyone who chimed in. Love the support this site provides. Now to send Marco a heads up email to save other potential future headaches.

Does anyone have a good solution or mod to protect the diode that's attached to the mini pf switch just above the mode start hole? Mine got smashed pretty good recently, surprised it didn't short, but it was close. Thanks!

Pin_Fandango and PBFan - Thank you!

I've got a mushy right flipper that I was trying to diagnose, and need some help.

Flippers were rebuilt by previous owner and all mechanical parts look new. Left flipper button opto switch was a newer one, and the right side looked original, so I replaced the right side with a new opto. Some improvement, but wanted to try to see if I could make it better, so I swapped out the original fliptronics board with a new Rottendog. After powering it on the right flipper holds in the up position. Start a game, no response when the right flipper button is pressed. In test menu, the right flipper flips, but struggles to barely move up in the hold test. Do I have a bad/weak coil?

I reseated all related connectors, and checked that all backbox board mounting screws were tight. No change.
Wondering if the rottendog fliptronics board is bad.

Ok, a couple more things I've tried.

-I swapped the two opto switches, and no change.

-I put the original fliptronics board back in, no change, still a mushy flipper. Game starts and plays fine as compared to the Rottendog, where the right flipper was flipping up and holding when the game starts. Went into test menu for flippers, right flip hold does not engage upward, regular flip works fine. Assuming this means the hold winding of the flipper coil is bad?

Why would the oem fliptronics and the Rottendog act differently though? Am I chasing two issues?

As far as my issues, the right side feels less precise and slow to drop from hold position sometimes which makes it feel less responsive during game play as compared to the left. Hard to describe, but it just feels off. Both flippers were rebuilt by previous owner, and nothing looks different between the two, other that the left coil was replaced at one point in its life. Both mechs move smoothly and have the correct FL-11629 coils.

The flipper menu test raises the left flipper nice and smooth, and the right side does not move but you can see it trying to. I will try to manually lift right flipper while in hold test mode and report back this evening.

Manny65

I have tried switching the 2 opto switches, with no change.

In flipper hold test mode, manually moving the right flipper up works, I think. It briefly holds up before cycling back down.

I will try to tension up the spring or get new springs to see if that helps to make it a bit snappier. This is probably as good as I can hope for.

With regard to the Rottendog fliptronics board, I did a bunch of comparator continuity/diode checks on the transistors to see if there were any anomalies. Couldn't find anything. Thought it would help my case in returning it if I could find a failed component.

Thanks for the assistance.

To close the loop on my issue, turns out the opto interrupters had a slight warp to them, and previous owner had filed away part of the plastic that passes thru the optos. I didn't notice this initially. Not sure why the error was different with the Rottendog in, but new interrupters fixed the issue and both the original fliptronics and the Rotty are fine too. Both interrupters that were in the game were filed, which explains why switching left to right changed nothing. Disappointingly, of the two replacement interrupters I purchased, one was badly warped and unusable. Very flimsy pieces, wish there was a more rigid option out there not prone to warp or twisting, say metal? I bought a couple of the spring steel backing plates just in case, but did not seem to be needed. Anyways, glad to have it fixed and on to the next issue. Thanks to all that helped.

Here's my next mini project. My IJ is a re-import, I wanted to clean up the coin door area, the wiring, etc and replace a bad coin switch. The game had some old school mechanical coin counter inside the cabinet that counted two different foreign coin types that I've since removed. It was connected to the coin switches and coin door interface board for power. My question is in regard to the diodes on the coin switches. Were the diodes added as part of the hacked in coin counter, and can these be removed because the diode function is within the interface board?

Thanks!

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Manny65 and Williampinball - Thanks for the fast reply!

I have a couple questions about the center drop bank target. Every few months I get the drop bank error message, check switches/coil. It triggers because one of the three targets (usually the middle one) fails to reset after about three attempts. I go into switch test mode, verify all switches register, solenoid tests fine also. I have reseated associated connectors, cleaned optos and inspected targets. Targets don’t look worn, but I believe they are original.

With switch errors, do the credit dots normally clear/resolve after the switch tests as fine in test mode? In my case it does not, I have to play a game after exiting test mode, actuate the drop switches, then it clears.

What should I do to fix this infrequent error? Get new drop targets or a whole new bank assembly? Is it normal to get this behavior where it occasionally takes more than a couple reset attempts before the targets stay up, or is that a clue that parts are worn?

Who makes the best IJ cabinet decals these days, or is it even available? Any recent experience/feedback is appreciated, Thanks!

I was orignally thinking radcals, but have since changed my mind, and want to keep the original look if decent decals can be sourced.

Partly the gloss, because I like the original look better. Also, after learning the cab has to be stripped and primed/painted black to avoid old image showing thru, I decided I might as well do decals. The initial appeal to do rascals was easy to install with minimal cab prep, but I guess that’s not the case here.

I'm possibly interested in the dirty gold one. PM sent.