(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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  • 11,590 posts
  • 667 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by zimzam
  • Topic is favorited by 354 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mike_m.
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#842 8 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

Do stereo speakers with Pinsound make a native able difference? It sounds pretty good with the stock speakers to me!

I combined my Pinsound install with a speaker set from Flipper Fidelity and the sound is amazing! Definitely get a nice rumble from the new cabinet woofer. I replaced both at the same time though so I can't really compare Pinsound with stock vs replacement speakers.

2 months later
#943 7 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Does any of you installed a shaker in this game? Is it worth it? An other treath says it just works on ark multiball?
Any reviews are welcome.

I don't yet- but I'm considering one with a twist- I have a PinSound card in my IJ. (Which is awesome!) PinSound has relay out connectors on its board for a shaker and allows you to assign shaker activity to any sound trigger. This opens up huge opportunities for better shaker integration than just Ark multiball. The holdup is it's not yet active in the current PinSound firmware. Last time I inquired I was told "soon" but it's been a couple of months now.

4 months later
#1057 7 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Another unrelated question:
The plastic window over the DMD on the display panel (on the speaker box) has a few cracks in it and is cloudy...can just the plastic window be replaced? If not, does anyone know where I can get a whole new display panel?
Thanks!

Congrats on finding your IJ! The plastic for the speaker/dmd panel can be replaced by itself. I believe Classic Arcades sells a PPS licensed remake of it. They don't seem to have the greatest reputation but the one I got from them seems fine.

#1060 7 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Thanks!
Just googled classic arcades and his site is no longer up...perhaps he's no longer in the biz?

ebay.com link: WILLIAMS INDIANA JONES Pinball Machine Speaker Panel DMD BRAND NEW

If you're interested I can send you pictures of the original speaker panel plastic I replaced. It only has slight scratching and in retrospect it was a bit overzealous of me to replace it. Would be willing to sell it for a lot less than the new reproduction one is going for.

1 month later
#1153 7 years ago

Wow, that's a clean coil bracket!!!

1 month later
#1329 7 years ago

I had my POA off for adjustments this weekend so I used that opportunity to remove the mode start saucer strike plate as has been suggested. I had previously been loath to change anything on the mode start saucer as my game had always been fairly reliable. Recently though I have noticed that bounce outs have been occurring more often. As beelzeboob and others have said this fix appears to work perfectly; no bounce outs since I made the change. I do miss that satifying "thunk" sound the strike plate made though.

Since I had some dead drop foam I added I piece to the back as well as the left side. Not sure the left side was really necessary.

IMG_0199 (resized).JPGIMG_0199 (resized).JPG

IMG_0200 (resized).JPGIMG_0200 (resized).JPG

#1333 7 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

If you had a Pinsound card with the reorchestrations, you wouldn't be able to hear it anyway.

I do and it's f$%*ing amazing!!!! The PinSound card in my Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure is by far the best mod I've ever done to any of my pins.

Hmmmm, maybe I can add that thunk sound to the PinSound card for the mode start.... (not really, don't miss it that much.)

#1334 7 years ago
Quoted from Mike_M:

Hmmmm, maybe I can add that thunk sound to the PinSound card for the mode start.... (not really, don't miss it that much.)

However if anyone wants to send me a recording of Gandalf's "Multiball!" callout from The Hobbit I'd love to throw that into my IJ mix for fun.

#1335 7 years ago
Quoted from Fremen:

Hi all. I have a new problem and wanted to see if any brave soul had any thoughts. For the past week, i have an entire column out (column 4)....
that is the best i can explain it. any thoughts? do i need to check each opto in that column? thank you!

Solenoid 28 is likely firing because the subway lockup is in column 4 and with it out it likely thinks there is a ball there.

When on optos are reverse of switches (Normally Closed instead of Normally Open if my tired mind isn't getting that backward?) so what you're seeing with testing continuity if likely correct.

When you say the column is completely out- do you mean in Switch Edge test none of the switches register when manually tested? In the switch level test do the optos for that column show open or closed?

Also- although this would impact more than just column 4 make sure fuses F115 and/or F116 are not blown... I only mention this because I've come back to solenoid 28 constantly firing after one of these fuses has blown.

#1336 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Good for you! Did you have any issues getting it perfectly leveled?
Btw, Do you remember if the POA's 3 harnesses connect to the same colored wires on the bottom harnesses?
I forgot to take pictures of the POA harnesses and I noticed that on the right ramp, the connections didn't necessarily connect to same colored wires/harness. But I did take a picture of those. I just wanted to make sure before I reconnect the POA. If you happen to have a pic, can you please post it? Thanks!

I came to the realization that there is no level adjustment for the POA; the shaft and collar are keyed with a flat side and if the set screw is going to remain tightly secured it can really only be tightened directly over the flat. With that in mind I stopped worrying about having the POA perfectly level when I tightened the set screw. I did make sure the opto interrupter bar was centered in-between the two optos first though. It does look slightly off level at rest- to the right... but it plays absolutely perfectly now. 100% reliable. The only other thing I did was move the Jackpot plastic forward (by moving the left screw to the next screw hole and slightly bending it forward) since the POA seemed to hit it when it was turned all the way to the right.

Sorry- don't have pictures of those harnesses- let me know if you have trouble and I'll lift the playfield to take a look.

#1338 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks so much for that info! Yeah, Please take a pic next time you lift the playfield. Just to be on the safe side. Thanks a lot!

Here's some pics of the harnesses- all the colors match so it should be easy to differentiate between the 2 6-pin connectors.

DSC_0286 (resized).jpegDSC_0286 (resized).jpeg
DSC_0287 (resized).jpegDSC_0287 (resized).jpeg
DSC_0288 (resized).jpegDSC_0288 (resized).jpeg

Here's some pics after I adjusted my Jackpot plastic so the POA would not hit it:

Notice that the left side of the jackpot plastic is now screwed into the forward screw hole so it is at a slight angle. I also slightly bent the plastic's vertical metal frame forward to move it further away from the POA.
DSC_0284 (resized).jpegDSC_0284 (resized).jpeg

In this picture the POA is all the way to the right. It's close, but the POA is no longer hitting the jackpot plastic.
DSC_0285 (resized).jpegDSC_0285 (resized).jpeg

Finally, I have found that use of the pictured lubricant will ensure optimal playing conditions:
50500833170__61604F7C-15EC-425C-B113-9AF3E96DECF5 (resized).JPG50500833170__61604F7C-15EC-425C-B113-9AF3E96DECF5 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#1375 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does anybody know where this plastic goes? Thanks!

Upper left corner, over the "jackpot return ramp." I can shoot a picture of it when I get home.

1 month later
#1446 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

According to the Pinbits website description of the shaker motor... "This shaker motor shakes when the gun is fired, during a dog fight, and when the Idol grinds and turns."
Could be a fair amount if your able to hammer the ramps continually and get some balls locked. Might also be nice if it was somehow possible to add "falling into the pit on POA" as a trigger event.

The PinSound board has (via a yet to be released firmware update) the capability to add shaker action to any event that has a sound trigger associated with it. Would have some pretty interesting possibilities in IJ. Plus since my understanding is that it's essentially a relay control it would allow you to use just about any shaker motor.

1 month later
#1534 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

The best mods for ij are pinsound board and color dmd.

Agreed; have both and they add so much. I prefer DotsXL on IJ. Bringing it to Allentown for Free Play.

#1566 6 years ago

Question on what everyone is doing for flipper alignment. Currently the flippers on my IJ are roughly pointed at the alignment holes on the playfield. However if you hold a straightedge to the inlane guide the flippers are not parallel (see photos.)

Ignore the holes and align to be parallel with the inlane guide or keep as is?

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#1571 6 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

parallel with inlane returns.

Thanks, that's what I ended up doing. Wasn't a major change; still feels to be shooting well.

2 weeks later
#1597 6 years ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

I notice your game has the color DMD and the Tilt topper and they both work at the same time. Any idea how they are wired? I only ask because I haven't figured out a way to wire both the DMD and Tilt topper on my game without blowing fuses.
QSS

I run a separate power supply inside my IJ for its ColorDMD and PinSound board. Seems to pretty much be a requirement on this game when running multiple extras like Colordmd or tilt topper. Mine just ran for 2 days straight nonstop during show hours at pinfest without a single issue so the separate power supply really seems to make a difference.

#1609 6 years ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

Did you bring the separate power to the topper or to the color DMD? Where did you bring the separate power from? Any pictures you could share?
Thanks for your help, I'm trying to figure out how to get both mine running.
QSS

I actually don't have the topper- it's the combination of the ColorDMD and PinSound board that I found would blow F116 every couple of hours. beelzeboob sounds like he has the same combo as me without issue so it may just be the power board in my indy wasn't up to the task. In any event I'm running power from the separate power supply to both the ColorDMD and PinSound board. My machine is still wrapped up from the show but when I get it back into the game room I'll take some pictures and post the details.

#1612 6 years ago
Quoted from Mike_M:

...In any event I'm running power from the separate power supply to both the ColorDMD and PinSound board. My machine is still wrapped up from the show but when I get it back into the game room I'll take some pictures and post the details.

Here's some detail on my setup. In the first two pictures you can see a standard arcade gaming switched PS installed in my IJ. These can be had NIB for ~$20 on eBay. The AC power supply for the aux PS is provided via the machine's power switch so there is nothing extra to plug in or turn on/off.
auxps-overview (resized).jpgauxps-overview (resized).jpg
auxps-detail (resized).JPGauxps-detail (resized).JPG

I chose a slightly unusual place to connect the 120 volt AC input supply to the aux PS. I did not want to cut any of the original wires or modify the molex plugs that carry the 120 volt AC immediately after it goes through the machine's power switch. However if you follow that wiring you will see that one of the places the switched 120 volt AC power goes is to an unused molex plug near the coin door, which I believe is for a dollar bill acceptor (DBA.) I simply removed the necessary pins from this connector and spliced them into the aux PS input wires; simple enough to remove and return to original in the future if needed.
auxps-switchedpower (resized).jpgauxps-switchedpower (resized).jpg

I ran separate runs of DC power to both the PinSound board and ColorDMD. Probably overkill; I'm sure I could have run a single wire for each rail and split them off in the backbox. Extra wire but I figured it was a cleaner method. The end of each run got a matching molex connector. Notice on the power input for the PinSound board there are two separate pins for +12 and -12; unlike the original IDC connector which simply looped the wires I ran separate lines. Again overkill but I didn't want to jam two wires into a single molex pin.
pinsound-power (resized).jpgpinsound-power (resized).jpg
colordmd-power (resized).jpgcolordmd-power (resized).jpg

#1617 6 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Very Nice Work Mike_M
I may try something similar when I take on the task of restoring my IJ. Quick question, does the unused connector (from the pinsound board) still receive power or did you disconnect at the other end as well?

Thanks! The unused connector still carries power; I didn't disconnect it on the other end. It's actually the connector for the original audio board, which was replaced by the PinSound board. (After installing my PinSound board I sold the old original audio board- didn't realize how rare and sought after they were until it sold in about 12 seconds.... LOL.)

4 weeks later
#1706 6 years ago
Quoted from Fremen:

Hi there. i was hoping to get some suggestions. I have had my IJ for 8 months now. it is very difficult to make the upper playfield/hit jackpot via the right ramp. I may make it up there once every 10-20 games, despite some good straight shots up that ramp. here are a few things i have tried:
- playfield is level and set 6 to 6.5 degrees
- i waxed the playfield and it seemed to help slightly for a few games then back to pre-wax
1. should you be able to make the POA with the left flipper with ball coming down the left inlane? dont think i ever have
2. suggestions on what to try next? new rubber on flippers? change EOS?
Thank you!

1- Yes. I don't think the right ramp is an easy shot but it shouldn't be nearly as rare as you describe.

2- Flipper rebuild, helped a lot on my game. Replace the bushings as well; they don't come with rebuild kits. Other than that play around with the Flipper position, I've found slightly slight changes can make a big difference in how easy/hard certain shots are.

#1730 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Question for you guys. I've only ever played my IJ, so I have nothing to compare by except YouTube videos, but the game feels super bouncy. It's impossible to live catch a ball, and even trapping take some luck.
I shot a quick video to show. Don't mind my crappy gameplay. I'm literally humping a tripod haha.
Feedback would be appreciated.
» YouTube video

Looks fine to me. Adjust your flippers ever so slightly up if you want to make it easier to catch.

You need to take the metal stop out of your mode hole so the ball doesn't keep bouncing out. Foolproof solution to that issue. See this post for a picture: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/27#post-3521307

3 weeks later
#1940 6 years ago
Quoted from Bumper:

Thanks you all! Indeed F116 was it, replaced it by 3A SB. Now trying to get some first games...
Yes, it is with colorDMD and pinsound, so there should have been a separate power supply for that?

Congrats. Not everyone who has the ColorDMD/Pinsound combo seems to need a separate PS, but my IJ certainly did. I'm just down the road from you; let me know if you need a hand with anything.

#1944 6 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey guys so it did indeed be the right rollover switch. I ordered a new one.

Are you sure you need a new switch? You should be able to just bend the diode down underneath the switch so it's not shorting. No need to remove the POA to do this.

9 months later
#3057 5 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

What’s the general consensus on changing over to LEDs?
Anyone regret making the change?
I would want to retain the original color palette as much as possible.

I'm happy with LEDs on my IJ but it's one game where I felt that frosted warm white GI was an absolute requirement to maintain the same "feel."

It'll be in FreePlay at Allentown this week if you're there and want to check it out in person.

4 years later
#9858 1 year ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I played a few games on it, sounds nice. The volumes are better, more consistent. If I have ONE minor complaint (maybe it is personal preference), the ball lock sounds are a bit underwhelming. It almost sounds as if it goes quiet immediately on the ball lock, a bit too quiet. To me that is a big moment when you lock a ball, and I'm used to being overwhelmed (or regular whelmed) by that action.

I just tried updating my Pinsound with @jedi_gill's mix but I get an error about no WAV files... I have an original Pinsound 1 board- does anyone know if those boards can't handle OGG files?

2 months later
#10068 1 year ago

If anyone is still looking for a replacement IJ apron I just created a CAD file for it using my own for dimensions. Sent it off to SendCutSend for cutting/bending so it'll probably be a few weeks until I'm able to confirm fit/hole placement. Once it's validated I can provide the Fusion 360 file or DXF file for whoever wants it. Designed for 18awg cold rolled steel.

IJ Apron (resized).pngIJ Apron (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#10070 1 year ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

I see Indiana Jones aprons are already available for sale.

Well now you tell me! All that time down the drain....

3 months later
#10230 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper_nutz:

Antidote, Does ANYONE know if someone is already making these from the files that were released?? I thought I'd catch up on this... Before going down the rabbit hole. Anyone, thanks

I just had 4 made on my last SendCutSend order. Have not bent them yet.

#10231 1 year ago

Could I trouble someone to measure the height of the bottom bolt on on IJ's rear legs? (As measured from the bottom of the cabinet.) My original is 2" high. I have a repro cabinet where it is 1.5" high. All my other Williams cabs seem to be 1.5" high as well. Wondering if IJ is an oddidity or my original has been wrong all this time.

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#10234 1 year ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

Ive just done the exact same thing. Not bent them yet either. Are you just going to bend them in a vice?

I was going to use this along with a bench vise:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4-inch-vise-press-brake.html

I've been having SendCutSend do bends for me with good results, but the DXF would need to have bend lines in it already. Not sure they could make all the 3 bends on the deflector anyway as they are very close together.

2 weeks later
#10298 1 year ago

I am selling some reproduction IJ aprons at a steep discount due to minor finishing imperfections if anyone is interested:

Parts - For Sale
New (selling multiple) - “I have 3 reproduction aprons/arches for Williams Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure available for sale. They have been test fit on 2 separate IJ machines to validate the fit, an...”
2023-03-06
Sterling, VA
65 (Firm)
Archived after: 1 day
Viewed: 178 times
Status: Sold (amount private)

1 week later
#10357 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I haven’t found good repros. I took a chance on modfather ones and i really didn’t like the metal.
I wonder if someone clever could just make a stencil to repaint the originals? I’m not crafty enough to to create the stencil, but I could buy one…

I made a stencil file for them that can be cut out with a cricut. Fair warning that they're a huge pain in the ass to apply and then remove after painting because they have so many small "floating" bits. PM me if you want the file.

Also I could not find the grill material with the original hole pattern after much searching; the one I finally ended up using is fairly close.

IMG_4143 (resized).jpgIMG_4143 (resized).jpgIMG_4153 (resized).jpgIMG_4153 (resized).jpgIMG_4154 (resized).jpgIMG_4154 (resized).jpgIMG_4158 (resized).jpgIMG_4158 (resized).jpgIMG_4167 2 (resized).JPGIMG_4167 2 (resized).JPG
#10360 1 year ago

SiN13 - I'm guessing the originals were silkscreened. There are places online that will make custom silkscreens for a decent price; would definitely be the way to go if you needed more than 1 set.

Chosen_S I used Rustoleum rattle cans- Summer Squash for the base and Colonial Red for the stencil. Both satin finishes.

1 week later
#10416 1 year ago
Quoted from alepage:

Hello there stupidly I have decided to try and scratch build a Indiana Jones, (it appears to be a small select club, yes there's a few of us) I know there should be warnings signs out there stopping people from being so stupid!
Anyway here I am slowly gathering parts one of the parts that I'm struggling to locate are the mini playfield side rails part numbers left 03-8938 and right 03-8937 these are the translucent red plastic parts.
Firstly has anyone got any lying around that I could purchase? and then look at getting a few made?

I don't think any NOS or reproductions are available.

I am working on making a 3D printable replacement. I think it will look good printed in a translucent red material. Each side will need to print in two separate pieces that come together with alignment pegs due to the size of it. It's lower down in my priority list so will be at least a month before I can finish it.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
6 months later
#10886 5 months ago

My brain had trouble understanding the buttons on the right side of the cabinet until I finally flipped the picture horizontally! . Congrats!
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1 week later
#10901 5 months ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

So I was toying around with my epoxies and urethanes, and a 3D printer, and made something cool for my IJ.

Great job! Looks very nice. I think you'd do well selling them... but to be honest if you could recreate the original you'd sell a ton of them.

1 week later
#10965 5 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

For those of y’all that installed Lior’s ruins… did you have to cut this stand off off of the idol housing?
The ruins are not setting down properly…
I am having fitment issues and may need to cut this piece off, any advise?
[quoted image]

I noticed a small hex post was included with Lior's idol... couldn't figure out why. Maybe it is related to this?

#10978 5 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I decided to cut off the post on the orange bowl, better to mod a $25 part rather than a $500 part. Anyway, the post is not used or seen whatsoever, yes it was in the way, the ruins sit perfectly now.
The extra post with the ruins is for the back right of the ruins, it stands just a little taller than the factory post.

Ah, that makes sense now. I'm using Lior's idol but the original ruins so that's why I didn't see any interference. And I can throw that post into the parts bin...

#10979 5 months ago

Me 3 on the scratch build... but I'll show off my underside...

IMG_0168.jpegIMG_0168.jpeg
#10982 5 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Strangest thing - I have the 3-bank target error and I went and replaced the opto-board, but still the error continues and the middle target keeps banging up and down at the start of a new ball... What might be the trouble, since it apparently isn't the opto-board after all?
Thanks for any info!

Check/reseat connectors J905 and J906 on your fliptronics board. On IJ they re-use some of the unused circuits on that board and the 3 bank target optos are one of them.

#11001 4 months ago
Quoted from SiN13:

Yeah I was going to ask all the people in here posting their scratch builds what are some of the hardest parts to source?

I made dozens of metal parts from scratch for my build. Not difficult if you have originals to measure from and decent CAD skills, but very time consuming.

I would have to say an original looking idol and the red walls in the path of adventure are the most difficult parts to find. Both can be 3D printed but will not have the same look as the originals.

10
#11002 4 months ago

The subway for example. Original. 3D printed prototype to validate fit after modeling in CAD. And final reproduction in stainless steel.

image (resized).pngimage (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).jpegpasted_image (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#11119 3 months ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

Only issue is my game won't let me put the volume lower than 8 now hahaha.

ADJUSTMENTS -> STANDARD ADJ. -> MIN. VOL. OVERRIDE

Pinsound is indeed great on IJ!

#11149 3 months ago

Thanks Ricochet for open sourcing Lao's Antidote!

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