Mines a little short width ways but its ok with its vertical alignment.

image.jpg

which did you do first? door or side art? Regardless you could have left a gap at the top of either one because the lock down bar or side rails would have hidden the gap.

Can anyone please provide a correct explanation of the single drop/captive ball game play behavior.

I have checked switches and coils for the target as it seems to be stuck and I am not sure if it is behaving as expected OR something else isn't working. Random things seem to activate it's normal award (pop bumpers/shooting a new ball/even pulling the gun trigger).

When the single drop is up and it is hit it triggers the DMD crushed/collapsing idol animation.
After this when is it supposed to reset? What is the correct trigger?
When should the captive ball be exposed? Only while the flashing arrow is on?

Excellent thanks! Now to diagnose why its not coming back up. Between shots.

Does anyone have any suggestions to fixing an issue I have with the left wire guide coming from the left ramp?

I've just cleaned and waxed by playfield and as such its playing super fast, ball is getting heaps of spin etc. The down side is that when I hit the left ramp at speed the ball travels so fast down the ramp that it almost always drains into the far left drain lane. The fix would seem to be that I need a higher playfield wireguide or some other way to block the ball.

I think my issue is slightly different. You are talking about it coming off right at the start or mid rail? I've seen that occasionally but not as much as what i getting now. What i'm talking about is where it drops down back to the playfield. Here is a pic (not mine) http://i.imgur.com/DqR5RcE.png

It can come off at an angle and skip over the playfield based wireform.

I had a game last night in which the only time I lost a ball was due to it jumping the wire. Sometimes it will trigger the eternal life reshoot, probably due to a drain switch being triggered so quickly after an upper playfield switch.

I press the flipper button quite as soon as it touches the bumper prior to the direction I want it to go. It works most of the time for me.

Say for example you wanted to make the ball zig zag, as soon as the ball starts moving to the side you want it to go press again to pre-empt the next move. On my table i've found I need to do it early otherwise the momentum of the ball will carry it to the wrong side.

To make it fall into one of the holes I just press the button later than I would for a land change.

I suggest taking off your glass and throwing a few balls through it manually and you'd figure how your tables POA timing/balance pretty quickly.

Very nice.

Have you considered cabinet protectors ( http://www.johns-arcade.com/#!product-page/c1cs/237c0859-05c6-3b0c-ce9e-76af5bb8b0a8). The suggestion is to cut around and remove the decals that would be under them to stop the decals from becoming wrinkled when the legs go back on.

Is your wear from raised inserts? If so these will only work for a short time as the same wear will come back if you don't push them back down.

Nice, but at 450USD (no shipping) its pretty expensive for a topper.

Would you mind showing more pics of how your nice pf rotisserie is put together and how it holds your playfield. I'm guessing there are a couple of clamps but I can't see how the rear of the playfield is held in place.

Ask in the plane rescue thread. They’ll all have those brackets removed from the machine to do the install.

Here : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-plane-rescue-service/page/14#post-4654357

Is it possible to hook up the same additional led to both the jackpot light and adventure leds so that if either go on it lights up?

I’d think I’d need to have a relay or something right? Something like this?

D8ADADAE-C988-406A-8582-B70A0E2BEB7E (resized).png

A string of leds lighting up the rope bridge behind the plastic when any of the appropriate lights light up (adventure OR jackpot).

Just the static ones. It works for one already but I have to choose.

I can either light for jackpot OR adventure.

Yeah I can. I was just looking for a more elegant solution

Both my indy's flippers are dead.

Initially they were intermittent.

I then pulled the flipper opto's apart and cleaned with a cloth sprayed with alcohol spray and put them back in and they don't work at all now. Reseated the connectors on both flippers and on the main board.

Did a coil check and flipper coils themselves seem fine. Question : when the "hold" test happens should the flipper bats move up quickly or slowly?
My left one raises slow but the right is even slower. Normal power test they shoot up quickly like normal. I'd never run that test before so I didnt know what to expect.

I've checked all the fuses on every board (without removal) and they seemed fine. Reseated every connector on the fliptronics board and powered on again. No change.
I then pulled all the fused on every board and retested. I broke the fuse in f101 (doh). So i'll have to see if I can find a replacement tomorrow as the 3A were the only ones I didn't have on hand.

Failing that what else should I check?

Replaced fuse.

Pulled every other fuse and checked resistance with a meter. All good. Checked tp1,2 and 3 on the power board and they’re all good.

Flippers were rebuilt about 150 games ago, checked them anyway and they move freely. They test fine in the test menu.

Oh well looks like more googling :/

Is there a good way to test the flipper opto boards? Seems coincidental that both are out at the same time.

Its a(n almost) Christmas miracle!

I threw some new hardware at the problem and it fixed it! Hurray, just in time for everyone coming over this Christmas to play pinball!

The problem was the opto boards. Both were dead! Tried one first just in case something was killing them and the replacement one worked.

What are the odds that both boards would be dead at the same time?

Wayne from mrpinball casually mentioned that spring steel needed to be installed. I thought I had ones installed that I could reuse but found that they were actually missing too!

Very nice.

The thing about art blades is how easily they get damaged.

I put some on my tspp and within a few days i'd already got a couple of places where the pf brackets had clipped them.

On a Williams it should be less due to the far superior lift mech compared to sterns but it still worries me. I might make up some side protectors with some left over makrolon sheets I have.

I did my first ones using the wet method. This is very forgiving, even for a first timer and significantly easier.

Same here. No washer required.

I did end up having to use some locktite blue to hold the grub screw in. I had it in test mode and had it moving around until I found the left/right sweet spot. I marked it with a sharpie on both parts so it could easily be tightened while staying aligned.

Interested to know if that works any better. I just removed mine on the weekend and put some foam at the back. I was getting so sick of the rejects.

243522AB-2536-4524-9F68-D592DE6EADC6 (resized).jpeg

I also solved my issue where the ball jumps the left outlane rail.

I'd seen other people adding a rubber to the bottom of the rail but I didnt have one small enough to fit and allow the ball through.

Instead I had a couple of rubbers that you normally add to posts. They hold well and slow the ball enough so it doesn't want to bounce out.
I'll add a picture when I remember at home.

Edit : pic added

Might hunt around and see if I have a matching color paint. Would probably crack though :/

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Its just what I had on hand in my parts box

I assume because of this post ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restored-and-customized-pinball-artworks-showroom-thread-by-mikonos/page/2#post-4072832 ) that he didn't end up being able to make them?

Sounds like you need a wpc power fix.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1013-kahrus-circuits/00092-wpc-power-fix-daughterboard

foam is the answer for it flying off the rails after the shot is made. There was a post in this thread from years ago where it was suggested to me so not my original idea

FC443CF7-29A4-4F0F-8644-3835F8014D9B (resized).jpeg

Even with that size block the ball is still decently fast and you can't see with your eye that it is slowing down.

I have a small piece on the right ramp but I don't recall what specific problem i solved with that one as it is on the way up the ramp and not down.

edit: and i see you've already solved it. lol.

Taking this to the extreme what would the "perfect" shape be?

As the ball only touches a single point my guess is a 3 dimensional parabola with a focus point that is below the playfield and into the saucer?
The shape would be similar to the inside of a headlight. That way regardless of where the ball hits it would go in?

Exclude any areas that the ball cant physically hit due to the side rails and top plastic and you'd probably have a curved sheet.

"f$^k saucers ... we're using a scoop!" - every manufacturer since.

Just DOA or something else? I have a set and they worked fine.

From a google/pinside search

also

I've also got the two different fixes you've seen that i've done on mine.

Two things.
1. A little foam at the top. This slows the ball so the return isn't as fast.
2. A couple of small rubber post stops on the ends of the wireguide. This acts like a rubber ramp stops on stern plastic ramps. The ball if travelling too fast will hit them and slow down. As a secondary effect is makes the gap smaller.

Makes repeated ramp shots really fast.

AC76F126-9CAC-4068-ACB4-C4182D889870 (resized).jpeg47C49239-5B5C-4564-8508-D285BFF96C0C (resized).jpeg

Oh god, I’m going to have to make sure I log in daily!