Great Thread... Thanks for all the sharing, advice & tips!

Yo Whitey... check out this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-plane-rescue-service

jump to last few pages for more of an update.

Kerry

Ken... I believe he's done with batch #1 and planes sent. I'm in on batch #2 and havn't rec'vd my planes yet. George has a 3rd batch yet to do. I don't know if he's got room in on #3 or is considering doing a #4. I would suggest you PM him.

Thanks
Kerry

"If" you are referring to the plane question Whitey asked here... then this is the thread I suggest he (you) look at.

I'd too be interested, to be on your list.

Thanks
Kerry Richard

I'd choose black / orange / yellow rubber over white in that location, less noticeable in my opinion.

No... I got the standard PF and it's all drillied

Regarding backglass:

As far as I know, it's just glass, that wasn't specific to the game (i.e. IJ). Usually it's tempered, however, on older games I believe some were plain glass. It's possible that the etched #'s represent the "bug" (the "bug" = etched marking indicating it's tempered glass).

I've owned over 200 pinballs, so if anyone else has anything different on this... let me know.

Kerry

I'd certainly paint the whole cabinet and head before installing RadCals. Putty marks, dings and holes, sand, prime & paint. Some may say it's overkill, not to me. That's what I'll be doing on (4) sets I've purchased.

I'm on the fence as to sink the smaller bolts or keep it "old school" with bolt heads showing.

RadCals are very glossy vs. decals being satin to maybe a semi-gloss. So, they are quite different in appearance and texture.

To do decals right you can't cut any corners. In my opinion: I think RadCal's thickness would allow you to cut corners, if you needed / wanted to.

I haven't installed any RadCals yet, however, I have done 5-6 decals.

I agree black is the way to go. I too will be painting the cab & head all black. Then any exposed edges will be blended nicely, especially the inside of the head, under lockdown bar, under coin door, start & extra ball buttons etc. Plus, I'll be re-screening the yellow warning labels on back of head.

Hello PinballReno… I have a couple questions, hopefully for the benefit of the Pinside fans too:

Can you elaborate: “Ed at GPE has all the connectors and pins. Mostly i use 3 position and 2 position .156 molex.” I understand about needing the connectors/pins, however, Can you elaborate on them more? What/where is GPE? Which crimping tool are you suggesting?

$16 IWISS IWS-1424B Weather Pack Crimper Tools for Delphi APTIV Packard Weather Pack Terminals Metri-Pack Connectors for Sealed Terminals

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-IWS-1424B-Terminals-Metri-Pack-Connectors/dp/B071KFLY43/ref=redir_mobile_desktop

$29 IWISS 5 interchangeable Jaws Crimping tool kit with FREE Wire Striper&Cutter for Insulated and Non-Insulated Terminals 0.5-35mm ² Oxford bag packing

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-different-terminals-interchangeable/dp/B0195VXA10/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

Thank You Pinballinreno!

Kerry

Ricochet... I'll take one too.
Thanks
Kerry

Ricochet... I'm in for your deflector.

Let me know.
Thanks!
Kerry

Seems to me, any 0000 of steel wool would be abrasive.

If it were me: I'd flip the rail over and test bottom (unseen) side for best results.

Sounds like you got a Great Deal on yours!

Thanks for sharing your opinion on these. I like to experiment with different speakers for same reason. I'd be curious to know what subs you choose.

I know the Pinwoofer kits use many of the PYLE speakers.

Kerry

Very cool... I didn't know these lenticular cards existed. I'll need to look for them, as you mentioned.

I have a single lenticular card on my CFTBL. It's very cool.

Thanks for sharing them.

Kerry

I just wanted to share this and maybe get some feedback. Large stamped #'s on both Cabinet & backbox. I also just posted my own thread on it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-williams-large-heavy-stamped-s-in-cabinet-amp-backbox-

pinballinreno... Thanks for the info. I didn't know that and have owned 250+ late B/W games. This is the first time I've seen this.

Agreed... Be sure to paint the cabinet & head first. RadCals are slightly translucent and can allow the original artwork to show thru them.

Also, in doing so; you'll see any major imperfections in cab & head that may need a hit of putty and light sanding.

I agree... that is the best way to do it right.

I've done many cabinets the "right" way. RadCals allow the user to cut some corners. I just did my IJ with RadCals by cutting some corners:

hit entire cab with power sander (didn't remove decals to the wood)
hit visible areas with putty,
hit it again with sander,
paint,
light sanding,
touch-up putty,
light sanding of those areas
Install RadCals

Ricochet... I'm in for 2 when they're available.

Thanks
Kerry

I have a real nice original translite... thinking of biting the bullet for a CPR repo. What's a fair price for mine?

I've done 3 IJ's. All 3 with black armor. To me the brass look is to much on this title... just my .02's worth.

The yellow's & orange's (playfield & artwork) are very dominant thruout and the black edges / details in the artwork are sweet. With that said: I think the brass look is overpowering. The stainless steel (factory look: glass lock bar, gun & glass rails) is/was a cost cutter, back in 93'. This game would have been a Black Armor LE, all day long, IMO.

I'm going to do my current IJ with deep / rich decals. I've done RadCals on IJ. They do offer a slightly easier application, the gloss is really nice (if you like it, which I do), but the corners don't match up 100% to my liking. A little too think, so the joints are more noticeable.

My Votes are: I give RadCals a 10 for ease of installation and look (glossy). I give the original vibrant colored decals a 10 for tighter corners, the ability to decal under glass bar and more true to the factory decaled look.

IJ is an amazing game and I'm so glad there are guys making these amazing mods / improvements.

Kerry

Is there anyone out there still producing true to original silkscreen decals for IJ?

I got mine from Mirco. Don't know if they are original silkscreen. They sure look and feel like them.

Not sure, I don't know anything about the dust particles.

Steve... the only picts I have are in an email I sent. They were deleted from my 35mm camera. If you PM, I can forward the email to you.

There is absolutely no lining up anything with RadCals. It's peel and stick. IJ artwork is notorious for being off for matching the front corners, same with RadCals. Unlike decals with artwork beyond the edges to trim off, you can get the corners match lined up closer.

Because the RadCals are thick, so the edge is more noticeable... I put masking tape on corners, right up to edges of front and side panels, then with paint brush, painted the void / edge with enamel black paint. That helped tremendously to hide the gap and the off white edges

Kerry

I have both Mirco's RadCals and his Decals (both uninstalled). I'll try to take a picture of them side by side for color comparison.

BTW: I recently did a IJ cab with RadCals. I liked it a lot. However, I'm doing mine next and decided to purchase both sets (RadCals & decals). I'll decide which to install after my 3-4 other current projects get done.

Kerry

OK... I set up my folding table in driveway and took 4 pictures (RadCals vs Decals). These are both from Mirco

I have installed both RadCals and decals. What I like about RadCals is they are significantly easier to prep cabinet before installation (fill holes, sand and paint entire cabinet black). No removal of glass side rails. EZPZ peel and stick on.

There is an amazing glossy finish to them, however, it may not sit well with the purists. What I don't like about RadCals is the ability to move them to match the corner's front with sides. There is no trimming and IJ has front corners that need to be closely matching. Many originals are way off.

I will say pictures are hard to evalute. Especially with RadCals having a thin protective film on top you peel off after installation.

Hope this is helpful

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Happy81724... are you painting over the original cab & head decals, before installation of RadCals?

I've done many RadCals. I wouldn't recommend going over existing side art w/o painting it a solid color. RadCals are somewhat transparent, so you'll be able to see the existing artwork under your new RadCals. There is a thread here on Pinside, actually discussing this done with an IJ RadCals. Once you stick them on, your screwed.

That thread is on RadCals, I don't think it's here in the IJ thread. You should read / see it.

Kerry

I too bought the CPR mirrored BG. I pulled it and put my original translite back in.

For me, it was too dark and the almost reddish/orange didn't look right to me.

This little tool is a game changer for those who try to hand cut the holes with a razor knife. You did a great job and painting the cab first eliminates any potential for the old art to bleed through.

Kerry

Suggestion: Be sure to paint the cab & head before installing RadCals. They are somewhat transparent and will show original artwork thru them if you don't.

Also, I highly recommend this 1/8" flush cut router bit for button holes, shooter assembly vs. using a razor knife. I put it in my Dremmel tool and its clean & simple. You'll Thank me later.

https://www.amazon.com/Amana-MR0105-Miniature-Bearing-Carbide/dp/B00O4TFHJW/ref=sr_1_5

I too purchased this mirrored version over a year ago. I felt is was way too dark / orange for my taste. I put my original translite back in too, for the same reasons.

I have original incandescents still in my game behind translite.