(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11,593 posts
  • 667 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 minutes ago by SiN13
  • Topic is favorited by 354 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jgaltr56.
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#542 8 years ago

Congrats! Just got mine last week. Now I have some work to do.

2 months later
#587 8 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

For the rollover lanes I've got 3 bulbs lighting up the red plastic lane guides. I'm missing a lamp socket in the 4th lane guide nearest the captive ball. I'll probably add a socket there, just wondering if this is typical for IJ.

I have the same empty spot ready for a socket. I was thinking of doing the same thing. Wonder why it was dropped, anyone know? Just curious if you need a diode on the socket if you use a non ghosting led?

1 month later
#659 8 years ago

I swapped out both planes today with some smaller scale die cast versions. 1:72 I think? Modified both by adding some yellow LEDs tied into the "dogfight" and "hurry up" flashers.

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#664 8 years ago
Quoted from ataritoday:

I like replacement planes. Where did you get them?

eBay. Search ME-109 or BF-109 for the German plane. I think I searched for Indiana Jones plane or biplane for the other one.

2 months later
#752 8 years ago

I was asked by another Pinsider for some photos of my BF109 and biplane LED job, so here goes. Note you can't see any of this when playing.

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2 months later
#807 8 years ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

Thanks for the idea! It took me a long time to find this feature on/off in the menu, but I did, and we will see if this prevents the issue from occurring. This being said, I also think others are correct that I have some opto issues in the path from the center enter through the idol release and everything in between.

I am having the same problem with an additional ball leaving the idol when only 1 should be put into play. I found one of the idol opto switches not working. Remember that opto switches are closed when the light from the transmitter is hitting the receiver i.e. they should be normally closed unless a ball is blocking it.

1 month later
#865 8 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Going to try this. How hard is it to get the scoop bracket out of there? That's what's been holding me up so far is not wanting to have to tear down much. I put in the foam, lowered the saucer, etc. but still rejects balls like crazy.

I put some target foam in an upside down "V" shape above the saucer. (See photo). Didn't even have to remove anything, just used some needle nose plyers to put it on. Make sure you clean up the metal with rubbing alcohol first. I did this about a year ago and it has eliminated any rejects 100%. It's possible the prior owners have made other tweaks but before I did this it was maybe 50%. I've heard putting washers between the saucer and playfield to drop it down a bit helps too.

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#872 7 years ago
Quoted from canea:

I'm having some trouble with my upper ball gates - the left and right gates near the lanes at the top. Can someone explain how these are supposed to function in a game - when they're supposed to open and close? Is there a loop shot at any point?
My left functions fine in solenoid test, but locks on when the left ramp made switch is closed (!). My right doesn't do anything in test and not sure what it does during the game.

I think it's the Tank Chase, Monkey Brains, and Streets of Cairo modes that use the full loop.

#877 7 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Thanks for the info on the loop shots, guys. I took my right gate apart and I think the spring had slipped to the wrong part of the wire so it wasn't opening. They're both opening now - funny because I've had IJ for awhile, but I don't think this gate has ever been working and I didn't notice!
So, can you confirm that when you shoot a ramp (during normal play) it opens the respective gate for awhile. So right ramp opens right gate for awhile, left ramp opens left gate. Mine does this.

Yes mine does this too.

1 month later
#930 7 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Finally got around to fixing my POA. It would tilt to the left well but only in stutter steps to the right. After trying lots of other things (and consulting with Lloyd/LTG), I swapped out the driver board. That fixed it. It didn't occur to me to start there since I replaced that board two or three years ago and assumed that it must be good. Nope. Lesson learned.

I'm getting the same stutter in my POA. It seems to work normally soon after start up, and I can usually get through the POA test but then later during gameplay it will start to stutter. I reflowed the connectors and the large copper coils on the bridge driver board A-15946-1 . It seemed to help for a while but now it's stuttering again. I'm not having any luck finding a replacement. Marco, PPS, Ministry of Pinball are out of stock. Has anyone had luck repairing this board or has a spare they are willing to sell? Am I looking in the wrong place? I don't believe the set screw under the POA is loose because it works normally sometimes too.

#941 7 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Just joined the club yesterday! Picked it up from a non-collector so I'm sure everything is not working 100%. I only had about 10 min on her yesterday before bed and have one question. With the path of adventure - what type of movement is normal when engaging the flipper button? Does it move fluidly one full crank each way, or should it move two cranks each way with two flipper button pressed. Not sure if I'm describing it right, but basically mine moves about halfway to one side with one button hit, then a full tilt to the side with the second button pressed in the same direction.

It should move fluidly until it hits a limit switch both ways. Mine "stutters" because I need a new motor driver board I think. Not 100% sure that is the solution but seems to be based on Pinside searches I've done.

4 months later
#997 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hello!
I just joined the club 2 days ago! This machine is the real deal!
I got a couple of questions hopefully someone can help me:
Do any of you have the issue of the ball getting stuck under the left ramp and right behind the mode start hole? What is the best way to minimize this?
The green airplane lights: When are they supposed to turn on and how can they be replaced or fixed? Thanks!

You may be missing the metal deflector behind the mode saucer. Some people take it out because the ball can bounce off it and not stay in the saucer.

1 month later
1 week later
#1125 7 years ago
Quoted from gismo31:

hi folks, i'm cleaning my indy up . everything is fine except the bumper lightning ? no way to get these work. in fact, all the upper part has no light. any advice ? thanks !

Sounds like a GI fuse. You need check the GI fuses for continuity with a MM. Many times they look fine visually and will still be blown. You can check them quickly while still in the machine but I've had cases where they showed continuity after blowing while installed, rare but possible. I think removing them rattles the broken filament a bit.

What were you doing prior to the GI circuit blowing? A blown fuse is usually caused by a short. Make sure all the GI socket tabs are in the right place, nothing touching that shouldn't.

#1138 7 years ago
Quoted from gismo31:

thanks for yout answer. the lights never workend since i've the pinball. checked the fuses, all are ok . the insert lights are working, only bumbers, the lights under the red parts at the top of the playfield. down the playfield, everything is fine.

Check your schematic to see if the non working lights are on the same GI loop? If so, trace it to the connector in the backbox. Check continuity between the connector pin and each light to determine if there is a wire break somewhere. Also check for burned or loose connections. Do all the above with the game off. If not on the same loop, then maybe they are just burned out?

7 months later
#1783 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I'll try again... Has anyone had an issue with the Mode saucer kickout not being straight? Mine seems to be on an angle, and when it ejects the ball, it flops down and hits the top of the left flipper.
Wondering if there is a fix, and if not, can anyone point me to a replacement?
Thanks

Mine usually hits the left sling. Is your playfield level?

#1788 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I lay a ruler across the top of the slings, and then use a small digital inclinometer to check horizontal and vertical level. Right in the middle it shows 6.5 and 0.
Do you guys also check level lower by flippers and also at the top of the pf?

I normally check the playfield level at the slings. The top of the slings would be irrelevent.

6 months later
#2696 6 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Last time I was there (October) it was still there. I’ll report back.
Still, any tournament scoring strategies? Or strat for high scoring runs?

Go for the lock. Get multiball going, left ramp, scoop, right ramp, repeat.

1 year later
#3978 5 years ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

They are definitely stock coils, both on the flipper and kickers. Also in very good condition. I find it hard to believe it's not related to the LED upgrade however as the power of the flippers have increased substantially since then to the point I'm concerned about what I'll break with the extra power. Balls are flying off things at a significant rate which didn't happen before the LEDs were installed. I didn't want to put in lower power coils as I'm sure the opposite will happen and I'll be stuck with flips that can't make the POA - usual story
I'll see if I can find a fellow in AUS to deal with the board. I'm sure there's a few specialists who handle these sorts of boards, but they are getting thinner everywhere.

Ill also check this out to see what's happening here. Anything that helps here would be great.

Yes please! If you have details I'd be grateful for a PM

LEDs draw less current which could allow voltage to rise. I've never noticed a problem but it's theoretically possible. You should check voltages with your multi meter. V=IR

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