(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 11,720 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by DumbAss
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jarbyjibbo.
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#10038 1 year ago

I've searched this thread and a few others but found limited/dated info. I am looking for an update on the current environment for "quality" replacement cab decals (only need the cab). Feels like none are available but just wanted to validate my research. The only name of the game for decent looking cab art appears to be the Rad Cals. I've done 10 or so cabs the old fashion way and that is what I prefer but am open to other/new things. Now that the radcals have been out for a few years, what's the consensus on quality/longevity/etc.? Any drawbacks? I do wish that they went all the way to the top of the cabinet. It would be nice if he offered that as an option. Any good regular decals still floating around anywhere?

1 month later
#10088 1 year ago
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:

Anyone install a Pinnovators Sub mod in their IJ? I tried the pinball pro sub in mine and I did not like the result.

I tried an internal sub upgrade only once. As soon as I heard an external, that was my only solution going forward. The sound wasn't even close to being comparable. Of course it helped that I bought a bunch of PSW10's for $79-$99 back in the olden days so it was actually the same price or cheaper to do an external anyway with what some of the options were out there.

1 month later
#10173 1 year ago

I just put transparent perfect play silicone from PBL on most of my games and really like the way they play compared to traditional white\black rubber.

1 month later
#10267 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Would the PinSound board and PinSound shaker work with EndProdukt's sound track with a WMS IJ? There are the files for EndProdukt's soundtrack version available at the PS community, but does it have the shaker codes also (which I guess are needed for the PinSound shaker to work)?
Thanks for any info!

The shaker code is separate by game and loaded into the smaller shaker controller board (you choose the game at checkout). I have the shaker on my LOTR and it functions the same regardless of the sound track I choose as far as I can tell. I have the board and shaker for my IJ but haven't gotten far enough along to install it yet.

#10288 1 year ago
Quoted from beltking:

Mirco rad cals. Imo must sand wood down and do a black sraypaint in wood before applying. People have had issues with seeing old behind the new.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This 100%, don't go new over old on IJ. There are photos out there of why.

#10293 1 year ago
Quoted from Norcalpin:

I would think you can do body work over the old decals, then paint black. Sand smooth and apply radcals?

Sure absolutely that is an option but that wasn't exactly what was asked. If you're going to go through all that trouble though, you might as well just do it right. I just don't do body work to a sticker vs the base wood of the cabinet. If you want to do a quickie job then yea, you can paint the decals black. Obviously if you have some significant defects in the cabinet, it's going to take some additional effort.

#10304 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Does anyone know the fellow that makes the mode hole brackets? I need a couple of sets

http://www.passionforpinball.com/ijpros.htm

Note he's running about 4ish month behind on work.

1 week later
#10345 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Screen printed airball protectors are back in stock as of today. I will follow up PM requests.[quoted image]

Are these on the market or somewhere else?

3 weeks later
#10434 1 year ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Just out of curiosity, who manufactured / sold that ?
Never been a big adherent of secondary market toppers. Am I correct in thinking that most toppers -- unless explicitly built for the game by Williams or whoever made the table, or unless they plug into an outlet separately and independently -- are going to benefit from a secondary power supply board added to the game, so as not to contribute to any electrical draw type problems ?

I've had aftermarket toppers on games for 20+ years with no issues. Most tap power directly from the voltage out on the board or utilize a tap that is unused for something like a DBA. Toppers may at most have a few LED's. It's not like we driving high demand motors, solenoids, etc.. The same can mostly be said for mods and unless you have a delicate system infrastructure like PB Alien, are not usually an issue to add onto the system.

1 month later
#10547 11 months ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Yes the line filter and two other parts not sure what they are called but I replaced my ,the new ones are black and other one is red and what's in there I beleave is grey and green that's from over sees

Varistor: https://www.pinballlife.com/radial-varistor-14mm.html

6 months later
#11100 4 months ago

I have retro's on my JJP and they are nice. I would avoid these: https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/bally-williams-indiana-jones-pinblades

Mine delaminated from being rolled up in shipping. After reaching out to Joe I finally got a new set after about 2.5 months of waiting and they arrived destroyed in a destroyed box (shipped with no protection in a flimsy box). I was ghosted after reaching out multiple times after that.

#11103 4 months ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:

Ha! Same thing happened to me with TOTAN ones I ordered from them. See this thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-club/page/51#post-7442812
This dude tried to say the creases were my fault. Shipped the same way you described, rolled up with no protection. They were delaminated on arrival. Even worse the colors were hideous. He was basically looking foolish arguing with me on a club thread, considering I had bought others from him. Eventually he offered me a credit but I don’t really want these in my machine even on a credit.

Yea I've done previous business with him before on multiple items including my Metallica blades which are great. I now have no interest in purchasing from him in the future based on the product I received but more so, how I was treated.

1 month later
#11357 87 days ago
Quoted from insight75:

Yeah that's what I'm looking for. I checked online and hardware stores and couldn't find anything. Found then here but cost would be $40 shipped: https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Game-Specific/Williams-75/Indiana-Jones/Screwset-for-Gun-Indiana-Jones-and-Dirty-Harry.html?language=en Little steep.... I only need 1 which was missing on my game.

This is one where online usually isn't the best solution. I'd go in and try your local ACE hardware or something similar. They have a nice supply of more rare things like this. Everyone usually has one in their neighborhood or close by so it's often a good first stop.

#11374 85 days ago
Quoted from insight75:

I really don’t think Ace or other stores will have that. Home Depot and Lowe’s have metric versions but it’s M6 and bigger. I think the conversion is M5.

If you're comparing a big box store to ACE for this type of stuff, I wouldn't. I find many more specialty items at ACE then either of the big box stores. Their smaller plastic pull out drawers above the normal nuts and bolts are where they are at. While you might not find all the pieces shown there, I know I've seen the star washers there and they have a decent supply of blackened hardware. They are more expensive but have much better supply of nuts and bolts (at least around here). It's either worth a drive to rule it out or it isn't, that's up to you.

1 month later
#11588 28 days ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

Specifically what product did you use?

Not the OP but I use this on my car and it works great.

https://sensha-world.com/crystal-glow-8-year-coating/

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