(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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  • 11,666 posts
  • 669 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by TicTacSeth
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#1078 7 years ago
Quoted from rygar:

No need to throw $125 through the window. You can easily repair the old one with dremel tool, if you need to spend some money this might also help: http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=449

You can also remove the divots with a basic metal file, which worked well on my STTNG trough that had minor divoting. Based on your description of being able to fix the issue by shaking the machine a bit I might suspect that the divots may be the problem.

More info here: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC (search for "Trough Divots" on the page).

Also, you try putting the machine into switch edges test mode and gently wiggling the wires that connect to the 2 trough boards. If switches start firing you will want to re-pin your connectors on the wires. Unless your game gets a tonne of action, the new boards shouldn't really be the problem.

#1079 7 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

I put these balls in my IJ when I first got it years ago. Was a terrible choice. They make everything dirty and the novelty of gold balls quickly wears off. They get scuffed and tarnished easily and after just a few plays you don't really even notice that they are different than regular balls.
Save your money. But if you don't believe me, go and try them out. If you're willing to replace them often and clean your rubbers more often than it might be a fun gimmick for a bit.

How about for the captive ball only? I'd love to add a gold ball just for the captive ball, anyone know if these are a good idea for that? You'd think with the much more limited action it would receive as a captive ball it would last a good long time??

1 week later
#1083 7 years ago
Quoted from Astropin:

That captive ball is a PITA to get to. Gold ball would be cool but not worth the effort if you ask me.

"Lucky" for me I recently had my IJ playfield clearcoated so my whole game is in parts bins at the moment. When I finally get around to mounting the captive ball it will be no problem to use a gold one.

3 months later
#1403 7 years ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

Okay group- I have what appears to be a similar problem as I have read through the forum, but I am looking for which order to look at things. When my new to me machine arrived from the previous owner, it played for a little bit. Then I completed the 3 drop targets and locked a ball- nothing happened. The ball didnt go to the idol, a new ball didnt come from the trough. Then I powered it off and on and the trough just spit out balls continuously and the game didnt respond at all, flippers etc. also I noticed the error messages of the mini playfield, the idol and the 3bank drop target. Looking online it suggested Fuse 116 was the culprit and indeed when replaced, the game restarted normally. The mini playfield message was gone as was the idol and both worked in test mode. The 3 bank drop target message was still there, but then I started to play and the drop targets acted normally, the locked ball went to the idol and a new ball was given from the trough. It also removed the error message at next startup. I assumed it was something stored in ROM that had not cleared.
So I began to change some Leds etc. went back to the game and was getting the error message about the 3 bank drop targets switch/coil, Eventually F116 blew again after a game or two. Unfortunately I also had to remove my color dmd because it must use a power supply that is also connected to this circuit.
I put the original DMD back in so I could read the error messages and we are back to square one with the mini-playfield switch coil message, the idol coil message and the 3 bank drop target message. Also upon boot, the Idol kick up coil fires repeatedly ( as if it thinks there should be a ball there and if you listen to it long enough it will then change to the trough ball delivery kickout going off continuously.
When I originally had the problem, I noticed there was a wire on one of the Idol optos disconnect and I thought that may have shorted and blown the fuse, but that theory ( although it needed to be reattached) was incorrect.
Where do I start my diagnostics for what is blowing this fuse, before I dig ito the bridge rectifier theory. Logically i am lead to the 3 bank drop target and maybe that board has gone bad. Any help or guidance as always is appreciated. This is a beautifully difficult machine and I dying to get it set up right.
P.s.I have looked at the mashed switch at the bottom right of the mini playfield, and although it has seen some action, nothing is touching and the diode seems to be intact.
Thanks, Bruce

I had a similar issue with my STTNG this weekend, put in a colorDMD and it blew F116. Turns out my BR5 and BR2 bridge rectifiers were on the teetering edge of failing and the additional load requried by the colorDMD pushed them over the edge. Replacing those 2 on the driver board totally fixed it.

#1404 7 years ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

No takers on the opto problem- lets see if I can at least narrow it down to whether its a playfield problem, a voltage problem on the board itself. I assume if I test the 12Volt test point and its 12 Volts then the problem is not with the board itself- correct? I am a bit new to board testing so is there a particular spot you measure the 12volts at?
Bruce

Not necessarily, if your bridge rectifier is starting to go, it will seem fine until it's under heavy load, then things get flaky. If you have the schematics for WPC boards you can check to see which test point (TP) on the driver board is for the 12v power (I don't have mine handy at the moment). But really, the BRs are inexpensive and relatively easy to replace with a little soldering work, so I'd go ahead and remove those from the equation if you can.

PinWiki to the rescue:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_Power.2FDriver_Board_Generations (has diagram with test point locations)

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier

#1415 7 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Wouldn't the LED version of colordmd fit better with that jackpot board? Ok, you can do the led version, but you will see some difference in lighting with your original one. The light is just a bit more white.

You could use the colorLED instead of the colorLCD, it fits exactly where the DMD did and is far brighter than the LCD as well.

However, if you decide to remove your existing prototype lightboard, I'd love to purchase it off of you for my game for a reasonable price.

#1435 7 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Is there any way to acquire a shaker motor? Pinbits always sold out

I thought I read somewhere that the shaker on IJ was pointless because it almost never goes off? Is the pinbits one a better version or something?

2 weeks later
#1473 7 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

My Mother-In-Law sewed them up for me, they really came out nice. She sewed strong magnets into the sides to grab the back box hinges...I m just waiting for her to finish a wider one with a pocket for the gun handle to cover Indy...

Just waiting for a Jaws LE...

They look nice enough, but I don't really get why you'd want to hide the pinball machines when they are in a clean, safe environment like that?

#1478 7 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

My Mother-In-Law would like for me to announce that she is NOT going into the pinball cover business...sorry guys

My "safe" environment includes 2 very large windows and one slightly less large cat...

Makes sense. I'm lucky enough to have a my games located so I only really need to worry about dusting them off every so often.

1 year later
#3964 5 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Received my custom air-ball guard plastic from Davi today.
VERY VERY NICE!!! Professional quality product! (also included was captive ball guard not shown)
Can’t wait to put this into play ... one day when I get my machine back together!
Thanks Davi!!!
[quoted image]

Those look great. How well does it match existing plastics? Can someone post a picture of the current plastic next to this replacement please?

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