(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11,721 posts
  • 671 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by blardo
  • Topic is favorited by 355 Pinsiders

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#1692 6 years ago

My mode hole did the same.

Problem: the rod that ejects the ball was against one side of the plastic guide (slot in red practice piece) forcingtje ball to eject to one side.

Fix: loosened screw from celenoid (4) and linkage (3) underneith pf. Adjusted rod so it was centered and tightened everything down. Now ejects to left flipper.

2 years later
#5407 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Okay, after talking with a few people and looking into some options, I'm officially looking to gauge interest in the apron graphic. Anyone want one? Just looking to cover the costs of printing and shipping.
I'm looking to get them printed on magnetic sheets, and they would be uncut so you'd have to trim yourselves. Better that way, so you can be sure they'll completely cover your existing decals.
And what would be the preference? Original version with the single, straight pyramid on the left? Or archaeology version with the Bent Pyramid and Sphinx?[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm in for one.

1 month later
#5860 4 years ago

I replaced the mode start deflector with Marco part #01-8806. Shot is sticking 98/99%. Used existing holes in the playfield. The plastic has to be removed because the new deflector is too tall; not noticeable since that area is covered by POA.

2 weeks later
#6008 3 years ago

Installed my IJ apron magnet. Great addition to the game.

EC960C7F-F90F-4B8B-B310-2C504C374C92 (resized).jpegEC960C7F-F90F-4B8B-B310-2C504C374C92 (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#6237 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The one on the left is factory equivalent.
Bending heavy gauge stainless ain’t easy without a heavy duty brake. I’m hoping to get it good enough and then turn it over to be manufactured by someone else
I‘ve considered resigning the entire area ... plastic and all. Hoping not to have to do that.

If you are willing to remove the plastic, see my post #5860. 100% stick rate, existing part, use existing holes and no need to hassle with fabrication.

3 months later
#7021 3 years ago

Here is an easy alternative to lighting the rope bridge. I used a warm white LED strip above the rope bridge and tied it into 12v power supply used for idol lock, trough and pinstadium lights.

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2 years later
#10188 1 year ago

No, this is terrible advice.

Remove the plastic. You should be able to see/access the 2-3 screws that attach the scoop to the top of the playfield. If the scoop is broken, it’s a common part that you can source from parts suppliers.

Quoted from Williampinball:

Yes I think it's all one pics u will have too pull out from under the PF and see what happen ,I have never see this broke down like that before let us know what u find out

11 months later
#11319 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Wow, it’s a bummer and crazy that the mode start saucer shot is so problematic. Mine started out with the antidote during restoration, but it wasn’t ideal and was removed in favor of the lower saucer option. Not a knock on the antidote, I know it’s a good option for many owners. Mine is fortunately pretty good with the lower saucer. I can backhand it with the left flipper, with probably about 80% success for direct shots. From the right, it’s a crapshoot, maybe 50/50 and a much harder shot. I start most modes from the left, plus maybe one per game on a lucky bounce or shot from the right. I can start most modes on a decent game. Indy is one of my longest-playing games, and Cftbl is prob the shortest.

Replace the deflector with Marco part #01-8806. 100% stick rate.

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