(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

5 years ago

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#785 3 years ago

I am having intermittent problems with Indy, and all of the issues are in Row 1, which corresponds to J209, or U18 being the culprit. I am interested to see if there is a consensus of which one is the more likely culprit before I begin getting the parts together. Thoughts? Thanks Bill C

2 years later
#2970 1 year ago

Lanfeust - I doubt its a motor strength issue. Make sure you have the flat washer on the shaft - refer to the manual, page 2-37. It sits between the playfield and E clip.

It takes some playing around to get the playfield set correctly. Make sure the screw to the motor shaft is not going back into an old hole - especially if people have been playing with this for some time. Also check to make sure everything moves freely before tightening the screw to the motor shaft - you want to make sure something is not binding.

There has been lots of discussion on this string about getting the playfield to move correctly - I'm sure the answer for your problem is in one of these posts. Good Luck

1 month later
#3028 1 year ago

Finally fixed IJ.

For quite awhile I have been perplexed with my Indy - very intermittent idol, mode hole, and lots of scoring for the left ramp when playing, even though the ball was not anywhere near. I would also get two balls launched at the same time. It became so bad that it was no longer fun to play - the fill line for the idol would back up, and the machine would never clear it.

After chasing my tale, I noticed that all of the issues could be traced to one row, but the weird part was that half of the row switches were working. During troubleshooting, I could tap on the playfield on the left side near the mode hole and get one switch edge to change (Usually trough 6, sometimes left ramp enter.) I figured that I had a bad connection on the mother board, so I changed all the IDT connectors to crimped. No change.

Today, I could not get any intermittent, and had lost trough 6 indication altogether. With the hood up, I decided to test each switch in the row. After testing two or three, I got to the single drop target switch. When I touched it, all of my problem switches went nuts - on, off, on, off.

What I found was a loose wire/cold solder joint on the banded end of the diode to the drop target switch. Wiggling that wire would repeat the same symtoms. Soldered that back together, and now Indy has joined the list of working machines again.

So, if you are having intermittent problems with a row, check all your wiring to the physical switches. It's possible you have the same problem I have.

4 months later
#3545 1 year ago

Reseat the connectors. It sounds like you have a wiring issue, especially if the switch test doesn't register when switching opto boards.

1 month later
#3729 11 months ago


That is the diode they are talking about using the protectors for.

The ball can and does hit it, and causes switch issues.

Cruise this thread for symptoms and fixes.

3 months later
#3963 7 months ago

Donnie -
You can get the connectors from GPE. You need to change both ends. This is typical burning due to the heavy current load on that connector. If you don't have experience soldering, you should send out the circuit board to have the connector changed. There's several folks out there who do the work, my personal preference is Chris Hibler.

If you only change the connector with the wires, it will burn up again due to the burned pins on the circuit board.

For the connectors with the wire, use Trifurcon pins in the new connector - they have better contact, and can handle the higher current, in case you go back to incandescents. There's lots of information out there on crimping pins for new connectors.

I am not sure why the flippers are stronger with LEDs, but I suspect your power supply was loaded down, and now with less current draw required for lighting, you're actually seeing full power to the flippers.

Bill C

#3970 7 months ago

Donnie -

Since you're "down under", I can understand not wanting to send the boards out. As to why the connector burned, this is a well documented problem with Indy - the engineers pushed the limits of what the pins could handle, and after time, the pins start to oxidize (corrode), which lowers the amount of conductive area on the pin connection, which in turn pushes more current through a smaller area, and higher current produces higher temperatures, which in turn leads to more oxidation, and the circle continues until they are at a point where the current flow through such a small surface area burns up the connector. Since this is not instantaneous, you may not have noticed a burning smell.

Looking at your picture, those header pins are burned - they will not have adequate surface area for expected current flow using incandescent bulbs. I know you have LEDs installed, however, you're taking a chance that there's enough conductive area on the pins to keep from burning up your connector. So, its a blanket recommendation that the header pins be replaced, too.

You may be able to take a scotchbrite pad or other mild abrasive and get the pins to be more conductive, but since the tin has burned off, they will become oxidized/corroded rather quickly. At a minimum, you will end up chasing your tail by doing the abrasive method lots of times, or at worst, the burning may get so bad as to burn a hole in the circuit board itself. In my experience, once you smell the magic smoke, the damage is already done.

Concerning the voltages - yes, you should be able to read the volts (I don't remember if it is AC or DC), but if you try to read the voltage before changing the header pins, you will find that you really have to have the meter lead "dig in" or scratch through the oxidation to feel the voltage. That is what a new connector would have to do to make the connection to a burned header pin.

I'm not sure of a source in your area, maybe others can chime in.

#3972 7 months ago

I’ll tell you what my doctor told me about my diet: If it tastes good, spit it out

I’m not sure what to do about too strong flippers. What’s your voltage to the flippers? If too high above expectations, see how your transformer is wired. Are you set for low wall voltage when your wall voltage is normal? (Low tap instead of high tap)

Instead of looking to add components (assuming your voltage is normal), look at having the EOS switch come into play sooner - that will get you to the hold coil quicker and may give you the reduction you’re looking for. If my thinking’s right, the opposite would be your EOS is coming in too late, so check where your EOS comes into play. When checking, push in on the pawl, don’t use the flipper bat.

I can’t get to my manual right now, but somewhere on this thread is a measurement of where the EOS comes into play. Hope you’re good at math, because I don’t think the measurements are metric.

#3984 7 months ago

Donnie -
Just checked, my flipper coils are FL-11629-50V. (Blue wrapper) My EOS closes when the plunger has about 1/8th of an inch of travel left before the plunger bottoms out on the coil stop.

I am at a loss as to why you've got so much power to the flippers. Did you check the voltage at the flipper coils? I have 45VDC on mine.

#4010 7 months ago

Donnie -

I'm in the dark about what's going on there. Maybe someone else can chime in. I'm curious and will be following this.

#4016 7 months ago

Donnie - I'm not sure about the fifty hertz, but according to my schematic, for 230VAC in, the transformer inputs are lugs 1 & 7, with lugs 3 & 9 jumpered together. Look at your transformer on both machines to see if they are wired that way. That's the closest to 240VAC I saw on the schematic.

I will be away from my computer for the next few days, so hopefully, others can chime in and give their thoughts.

3 months later
#4338 4 months ago

0.156 space

1 month later
#4519 71 days ago

Cold/poor solder joints on J904?

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