(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

5 years ago

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  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by gliebig
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#1547 2 years ago

Here's my Indy after restoring for 18 month.

• PinSound mit digital reorchestrated Soundtrack and Sound-FX
• Color-DMD
• Modified Game ROM with permanent Frog Mode
• Speaker Panel rebuilt like Prototype
• Visaton Speaker 2.1
• BackPlex
• Clearcoated Playfield
• Inside Decals
• Euro Coin Controller
• Stern Clamps
• Non-Reflecting Glass
• Shaker Drive
• Separate Power Supply
• Illuminated Path Of Adventure
• Full LED
• Planes and Blimp labeled like in the Movie
• some Modifications (Lights in Blimp, Rotating Propeller, Illuminated Holes in POA and PF, Protectors)

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#1562 2 years ago

Frog mode is only available in the mines, if you do the right steps of movements - it's an easter egg and hidden for years.
I've patched the L7-Game ROM so the Frog is dancing every time, even if you fail in the mines - very funny.

If someone is interested in the file I can send it by e-mail.
You just have to burn the file in your ROM.
The file is recalculated with the correct checksum and will detect ROM Errors as usual.
It includes patch against LED ghosting and wrong wording "Rescue the ARC" is also corrected to "Rescue the ARK".

Send your e-mail address to dirk.odebrecht@arcor.de

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1 week later
#1575 2 years ago

I wonder about different coin doors and thought squared frames are correct.
Here I see more pins with circular shape frames.
Are both versions original?

1 week later
#1602 2 years ago

Excellent Pinball... next to the PinSound-Board you need a Shaker, too.
Shaker will be fired by the PinSound-Board, then Indy is really perfect.

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#1605 2 years ago

This Shaker is custom made.
I'm sure there's no Shaker Motor Kit available for Indy.

#1622 2 years ago

Yes you need a shaker in Indy!

#1624 2 years ago

You have to look for:

• being complete, no missing parts
• damaged mainboard with burned plugs and burst capacitors
• last software update L-7
• broken plastics
• burned translite
• damaged coin door and coin controls
• complete and right coin box (WPC)
• bended, rusty legs
• damaged cabinet and back box and bleached artwork
• damaged motors for POA and Idol, gears also
• working opto- and switch boards
• broken plastic ramp right side
• missing jackpot circuit (proto)
• lost plastic
• backpanel plain or proto with lights
• wear and tear on playfield (Lost Treasure, Indy, Willie, Marion)
• damaged playfield area behind drop targets and holes
• Speakerpanel plain or proto (Grail, Stone, Ark)
• working DMD without flickering

#1639 2 years ago

And this is the only one solution to prevent the switch matrix for short circuit.

Also you can see the hole protector and the modified ball deflector to catch the balls much more better then before.

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#1660 2 years ago

This is a piece of folded spring steel and I drilled it that it fits exactly to the switch bracket.
Mostly the balls become airborne if they hit the drop targets next to the mode hole and then the switch bracket under the POA will be hit and short the switch matrix or burn the diode.
I also use the same gutter (modified) at the mode hole that is mounted left to the entry of the ball through.
With this modification you get 7 of 10 balls locked into the mode hole and you protect the plastics around that area, too.

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#1662 2 years ago

I did that for my Indy also and as a hint please check if LED is working properly before you reassemble the POA - later you can't swap them easy, each time a LED is damaged you have to disassemble the POA again.

To remove the POA you just have to disconnect the plugs under the playfield, loose the internal wrench bolt at the drive motor (be careful not to damage the screw) and loose the bracket in front of the POA.
Then you can pull the POA slowly off the drive shaft.

#1669 2 years ago

Damien: You have to remember that Indy use Fliptronic in combination with opto-electronic. First ensure that both opto-electronics for flipper fingers are clean and working properly. Next is Fliptronic, that pulse the coils for every ~30 ms while attracted to save coil and electric. It's recommended that EOS are adjusted correct and accurate or the fingers will suspend the balls more or less and the fingers could fall down if hit by a ball. Take a look into the Manual.

#1671 2 years ago

EOS for Fliptronic are always open and barely close at the end of stroke. Try to adjust a space of 1.5-2.0 mm between the contacts.

#1673 2 years ago

This is the coil protection and know you must adjust the EOS in that way, that it's closed a little bit earlier before the plunger reach the end of stroke. It's a bit tricky but the only way... try and error.
In fact, you need a depreciation area where the flipper can move a bit without opening the EOS.
If EOS opens to early flipper will shot back again, if it opens to late it will be powerless and fall down.
You have to find the right position.
I know several pinball machines (WPC) with that issue... so is mine.
If you don't like it, you may lump it.

#1675 2 years ago

EOS with Fliptroic (WPS) is always open if flipper is not pressed.
EOS should have contact at the end of stroke... of course a little bit earlier.
Don't confuse with other Systems, for instance System 11!

This is the description from the original Indy manual section 1-46.

Flipper Switches
This game uses the new Fliptronic II Electronic Flipper System. The End-of-Stroke switches are
NORMALL Y OPEN. The switch should close when the flipper is energized. All E.O.S. switches and
flipper button cabinet switches are gold flashed computergrade leaf switches. Only low computer current
is carried through these switches. DO NOT FILE or abrasively clean these switches! DO NOT REPLACE
these switches with the old style tungsten high current type switches as intermittent operation could
occur. Note: Unlike the old style of flipper, an E.O.S. switch failure does not harm the flipper. The game
notifies the operator of the switch being mis-adjusted in the test report, but continues to play. The E.O.S.
switches are a means by which the new electronic flippers feel and play with all of the subtleties of the old

Here's a Picture of my Indy, but the assembly is modified with STERN Clamps and bronze bearings.

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1 week later
#1690 2 years ago
Quoted from smiley:

your coil is on backwards, the connectors should on the other side.

I know some pinheads suppose that the soldering of the wiring might brake, but for me it's just a philosophic lining.

2 weeks later
#1745 2 years ago

Here's my solution for all your problems... no foam is needed.

First drill the left and right hole of the bracket and use cage nuts.
This will increase the stability and you will have no more broken wood in that area top of the playfield.

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Next use the same sheet metal from the hole behind the drop targets and modify it like that it's fits under the plastic... you just have to change the angle a little bit.

This bent sheet metal is the secret.

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If needed use a cliffy protector to save fringe range of the hole top of the playfield.

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Next mount the plastic with some washers to get more distance to the surface.

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Beneath of the POA protect the switch with a small bracket.

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I promise 8 of 10 shots will be catched into the mode hole and your switch matrix is safe against short circuit.
This makes Indy much more playable without having trouble.

#1747 2 years ago

No, the switch bracket is selfmade and it fits perfect to the mounting holes of the switch.

1 week later
#1780 2 years ago

Buy it it's worth it more then other mods!
And consider the possibility to run a Shaker.

#1782 2 years ago

First you should remove it and disassamble.
Mine was clinched and I filed off the edge of the shackle and it works ball park.

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#1793 2 years ago

You can switch between different sound sets presumed original wav and custom wav are installed.

#1797 2 years ago

Especially for Indy there's only one useful mix available, of course unofficial and no more available on public Websites - thank you Rick.
This mix is a masterpiece of reorchestration and hocks your Indy into another dimension of Music and Sound.

#1804 2 years ago

You can have more than one Soundtrack on the flash drive and you can switch during gameplay between.
And if you have more experience you can mix your own Soundtrack for really funny or weird effects.

#1807 2 years ago

In my opinion this Mix is the only one if you want to have shaker support, because the most preliminary work is done.
And the quality is another dimension without doubt.

#1811 2 years ago

Board supports Shaker via 5 Volt switchable circuit.
You need PinSound-Studio and custom built Shaker.

#1818 2 years ago

You have to built the Shaker on your own - not so difficult.
Maybe PinSound will provide a Shaker kit later?

#1826 2 years ago

If you change to LED you need a modified ROM to prevent ghost lighting effect.
I can send you the file to burn if you want.

You can chose between:

• English with corrected wording (ARK instead of ARC) and LED-Patch
• English with corrected wording (ARK instread of ARC) and LED-Patch and secret frog-mode (Mines)

Here on PinSide there are some guys using my modified ROM without any trouble.
You have to know that the file is checksum corrected with full self-testing.

#1850 2 years ago

I have disassembled every assembly of my Indy and I never saw a sticker or something else on a bracket.
Maybe a bigger coil was used and to prevent against short circuit someone put a sticker between?

#1854 2 years ago

You're right, and I can see it in the picture in the drawing, but I didn't use it.
Before disassembling there was no sticker and I wonder about of what it's used for?
Maybe to reduce virbrations that damage the opto electronic?
Or just to reduce noise of coil stop?
I use small rubbers to reduce vibration of coil and balls at the card cage.

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#1863 2 years ago

If you take a closer look you will see small lines that mark the edge of a mylar protector.
Most Indys don't have a mylar in that area, but of course there are some specimen in the field.

#1875 2 years ago

Official there are no playfield reproductions for IJ, but you can get very good playfield from a guy in Hungary.
Sometimes these playfields are offered on Ebay!
I saw this playfield more than once and it's really very very good work in silk screen printing!
A typical attitude to identify these playfields are the repetitive serial number that is often the same.

#1913 2 years ago

THIS is the area where you get in trouble if the ball hits the switch.
Switch matrix then will get in confusion and adds more players during gameplay.

I Just build a small bracket to protect the switch and it works.

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#1920 2 years ago

Take a look at manual page 2-47 on position 78
Switch number is: 12688-1
Take a look in the wiring diagramm page 3-2 in column 6 and 7 and row 2-8 (mini)

#1923 2 years ago

Use the wiring attached to the old switch!

If balls from the center lock are not recognized, check the 10 Opto Board beneath the playfield if it's powered by 12 volt.
There's a LED that indicates existing voltage.
Often a loosen or damaged plugs are the reason if Indy gets confused during game play.
A quick solution is possible if you enter the service menu when Indy displays a damage report.
In that case the damage report shows errors at POA switches.

#1947 2 years ago

I got the same problems with the flippers caused by weak WILLIAMS clamps, so i decided to use STERN clamps... very similar to DATA EAST and much more stable and easier to use without bending the clamps itsself.
A very good improvement that I first tested in my F-14 with great success.

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#1952 2 years ago

Take a look in the manual where all assemblies are shown in detail.

1 week later
#1968 2 years ago

Take a look at the small Ramp on the right of the back panel. Left of it there's a plate very similar to yours.

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#1972 2 years ago

That's really cool - great idea.

#2011 2 years ago

Goto The Internet Pinball Database and take a look into the parts list, you should find all build in parts and the amount of them.

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2 weeks later
#2096 2 years ago

The mod is a good idea, but faulty in the area of the hidden ramp thru the lost treasure lane.
If a ball gets airborne it has so much energy that the plastic on the left and right will be damaged very soon.
You should modify the clear plastic on both sides, so the the ball couldn't reach the plastic!

#2099 2 years ago

Ok, I had the same idea last year when I started testing Indy in play.
I think I will think about it again in Winter... Indy needs some maintenance and then it's one job.
Hopefully this modification will work... good job.

#2101 2 years ago

It's absolutely confusing, but it's correct, all of them and lots of other Pins have these guides, too.
More wicked is the fact that the small metal flags of the guides squeeze into the playfield.
I often use small washer between playfield and guides to protect the surface.

#2103 2 years ago

When I first saw these small guide lane I thougt the screw was broken.
I talked to some other Indy Players and they confirm that these parts are original.

Be fast, I'm on vacation next week.

#2111 2 years ago

Check OPTO-Electronic, both flipper OPTO-Electronics and 10 OPTO-Board, often 12 Volt connector is faulty.

#2117 2 years ago

Don't do that - look at my solution - it work's.
Just use the same metal part from the ohter hole, cut it aprox. 3-5 mm and bend it a little bit down.
Catching 8 of 10 balls with this assembly.

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#2119 2 years ago

And make sure to protect the switch under the POA to prevent short circuits in the switch matrix.

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#2123 2 years ago

Material is 2 mm spring steel.

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#2137 2 years ago

Dear all,

please feel free to make this little protector to make Indy much more playable - and I don't want to have anything.
This is just a hobby and we all want to have fun and a great time, so go on.
But I'm glad to be asked for - thank you guys.

1 week later
#2218 2 years ago

Hope these weak Williams Clamps will work, I swapped to STERN Clamps.
And the cheap plastic bearings are very bad, I swapped to bronze bearings, too.

1 week later
#2228 2 years ago

Look into the spare parts list.

#2234 2 years ago

This bracket should be golden to apply perfect with the ramp.
And more helpful is the little cliffy behind the drop target to protect the playfield.

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#2238 2 years ago

I remember same issue at the POA.
I carefully distend the sockets, but it's very important that you first test the LED of function.
I had the experiece that often the LED need to be turned into the socket if they don't light.
It will be a lot of work if you assemble the POA and build it in and then you dicover that some LED don't work!

#2239 2 years ago

Can somebody tell me the measurements for the airball-protectors for both drop targets?

#2245 2 years ago

No, if you finishid the POA connect it to the wiring and check all LED.

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#2252 2 years ago

You have to be very careful with the screws of the Apron bow and the screws that fix the Apron to the metal blades!
Often the cage nuts brake apart of the clamps and then you get in trouble to disassemble the Apron without damaging the surface of the playfield.
I went to a welding specialist to reinforce the cage nuts!

#2262 2 years ago

Indy's legs have been made of stainless stell and galvanized with golden Surface, the screws as well.

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it's a great idea to rebuild the Idol Lock Assembly, because most of them are in bad condition or already broken, go ahead.

#2266 2 years ago

Prototype looks very good - great Job.
I don't know but I really believe this spare won't sold anywhere.

#2271 2 years ago

Door lock is out of stock in Germany, too.

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#2281 2 years ago

I prefer galvanized in black Chrom... vintage look.
Between gun and decal I placed a selfmade protector to prevent that the gun sticks to the decal and damage it if the gun must be removed concerning a faulty switch.

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#2287 2 years ago

I have it... if you have a dropbox (1 GB) I can upload the latest package.

#2290 2 years ago

Not bad, orange fits best but there's no more space for a nazi blimp.

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#2292 2 years ago

What blades?

#2294 2 years ago

Ahh ok, that are mirror blades with decals on it.

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#2303 2 years ago

I have the files of these decals, but they have 100 MB each.
If someone has a dropbox I can upload for you.

#2305 2 years ago

no hurry,
just send me access code and I will upload as soon as possible.
I also have a high resolution complete scan of the playfield and POA, if it's interessting?

#2312 2 years ago

Why a scan? I've send you the complete playfield in hires scan yesterday?

#2315 2 years ago

Excellent job... hope the stress test will bring you useful results.

#2320 2 years ago

Great idea and think about an option to install some lighting?

#2322 2 years ago

Holes for the screws or for lamp sockets... yes, something like that.

#2324 2 years ago

No good pictures, but there's space in some areas, you will see if you reassemble Indy again.

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#2328 2 years ago

Maybe your prototype game has another detail on the playfield... very rare are playfields with:
• Indy Senior called Dad instead of Dr. Jones
• The wings besides Eternal Life are different
• The insert super Jackpot is different
• POA has borders in stainless steel instead of red Plastics
• Game ROM Revision is earlier than L-3 and labeled with P for prototype
• Speaker Panel has a circuit board with bulbs for ARK, Cup and Stone on it
• Backpanel has always the lost plastic with a circuit board with bulbs on it

#2330 2 years ago

Begin to protect the playfield with Mylar:

• Slingshot left and right
• Drop targets

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Next step is the airball protector above the drop targets - still waiting for delivery of my prototypes.

#2334 2 years ago

Good idea with the BA9 socket.

#2340 2 years ago

Now here's my airball protector for the drop targets... material is Vivak, more flexible and stable as Plexi.

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#2348 2 years ago

Be careful, if you have the prototype Panel you must take a closer look to the space between the DMD (LCD,LED doesn't matter) and the Jackpot board.
The original board doesn't fit between Panel and DMD, you need a small LED-reproduction board.
Another problem is that the standard bulbs become to hot and will damage the DMD and the Panel, sooner or later.
Believe me, this is the only one solution to combine DMD and Jackpot with new better engineering.

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#2350 2 years ago

Original the Panel has three big rectangular holes.

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The Problem is that the small LED reproduction will not work properly because the holes are too big.

I transmit the symbols from the Panel to the Board and cut out the outlines only.

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#2352 2 years ago

That's exactly what I did.

#2354 2 years ago

No, I use a LED board with original panel.
Just shape cutout and it's perfect.

#2356 2 years ago

The color of the caps next to the star posts have to be red.
And white rubbers...

#2359 2 years ago

Nice work, your Indy will be a beauty again, but still missing Cliffy at the drop target?
Left of the "I" behind the plate there's the spot with the missing light we're talking about... just connect it parallel to the four lights of INDY and use the same socket.
I decided black chrome on the gates and all original color design for rubbers, bumpers, etc.
And what do you do with the ramps?
My ramps are gold-plated and they shine like a treasure, quite expensive but worth it.

#2363 2 years ago

Available spare looks like this.

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#2368 2 years ago

I have added the "Ark of the Covenant" right over the shooting lane.
Bought it at Ebay for 10 Euro.
All used parts are any parts from F-14 and INDY.
Additional I've illuminated it with blue light and I placed a thin pane of a glass plate between.
The circuit is easy and consist only a Diode, two capacitors and two LED.
The bracket is from F-14 Tomcat and fits perfect to the gap of screws of the plastic.

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#2380 2 years ago

Really impressive... go ahead.

#2386 2 years ago

I remember a guy in Hungary who does reproduction and the playfields are not that bad, but rare.

#2391 2 years ago

L-7 Game ROM at IPDB for download... http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1267

Loose the screws from BackPanel and bent the ramp infront of the Plastic, but take care not to scratch it.
Then fix the screws step by step.

#2393 2 years ago

Ramp should fit without bending... sure the bolts of the backpanel are in right position, or the panel itself?
Panel must stand in right angled to the playfield.

#2395 2 years ago

Often the panels are a little bit deformed, take a closer look.
Loose the screws and fit in the ramp and then fix the screws again but carefully.
Are the two bolt on the playfield crooked... the ramp must fit in place without violence.
Also, keep in mind that the ramp was maybe mounted without lost plastic, the plactic is approx. 2mm thicker and so the ramp doesn't fit?

#2398 2 years ago

It must fit... here's my ramp mounted to an illuminated BackPlex.

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#2402 2 years ago

This part should be the same in other Pinball Machines - is there no chance to find it by part number of the part list?

#2413 2 years ago

I decided old fashion look and painted the IDOL.

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#2432 2 years ago

Good job and thank you for removing all that stupid doll shit!

#2443 2 years ago

Use the spacer to have a wider angle of the LED shining through the lost plastic. If it's to tight you will have spots only and that looks not so good.
It's different to the Jackpot-Board if you use a Color-DMD, there you have no choice because there's no space enought with that combination.

#2447 2 years ago

The main playfield should be cross balanced 0 degrees.
Then alongside try a pitch of 6-7 degrees, not more.
The POA must work perfect with that measurement, if not there's something wrong... bend or worn.
After my restoration I didn't need to adjust anything at the POA... it works perfect.
Don't raise the POA that much, at the end Indy is unplayable because you will never get the balls on the left side around the first hole... the balls will be too fast and you have no time to switch them on the right.
Result... often you will loose the balls... again and again.
It's not that much easy but if you change the angle of the POA alongside, it's much more difficult to play.

#2454 2 years ago

Do something for the POA?
Borders and Holes only switch on if POA is active... Borders begin flashing if right ramp is activated.
If Mission fails all lamps shut off immediately.

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#2457 2 years ago

A very simple series connection with some LED, Resistors, Diode and a Capacitor.

#2459 2 years ago

Take a look here - during gameplay the Flasher is more quickly with much better effect.

#2461 2 years ago

It's only a LED and the same at the other hole. They glow with the GI.
In the video they seem shine like a torch but this depends on the frequency of the room light and the camera.

#2468 1 year ago

The original Bracket is scrap and the reason of all the problems.
It should be changed against this one: #01-8806

#2471 1 year ago

Wow, yes that's it!
Great Job and I'm glad to help in this case.
I bet this part will save your Indy's from angry and expensive damage.
Take care and bend the resistor/Diode away from the protector... it may not have contact with it!

Here's my prototype... looks very similar... well done.

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#2475 1 year ago

Yes that can be a problem, if all balls are removed and the playfield is pulled up, switch on and check LED at 10 Opto-Board... if dead 12 V is missing or connection is bad.
Often at these boards the connectors are weak or the big resistors are damaged while overheating during gameplay.
In my opinion a bad design because high temperatures by too big voltage drop are produced. Maybe at that time 5 volts were not likely sufficient with the wire-length... however.

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#2479 1 year ago

See three picture before...

#2482 1 year ago

Yes, very well done.

#2484 1 year ago

The Lost Treasure decal is a problem, you need a stencil to airbrush the decal.

#2490 1 year ago

I'm not sure, but the insert don't have the "Lost Treasure" - it's blank?

#2492 1 year ago

Of Course it's green but no decal on it!
There's a choice between stencil (airbrush) or sticker.

#2498 1 year ago

This is the secret of an airbrushed decal in that area.
A stencil to brush the white and black Color.

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My decal was damaged, too.

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After the airbrush it Looks much more better.

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#2500 1 year ago

Insert was ok, only the surface was damaged during removing the mylar, so the decal was damaged, too.
Often these decals were damaged because air diffuse through.

#2502 1 year ago

Mask the area, sanding with different grain size, clean with 2-propyl-alcohol, clear coat, polish, clear coat, polish, decal, clear coat...a few times.

#2505 1 year ago

Maybe a scan of the playfield would help?
Send me your e-mail adress...

#2518 1 year ago

I can feel with you... did the same whole work and it took me 18 month to complete these wonderful Pinball again.
And YES it's worth it.
Uhh, I like the red boxes inside... I remember someone who did that at his Pins, too.

2 weeks later
#2555 1 year ago

I prefer a sanded bottom and soft modifications.
Of course a speaker upgrade is necessary.

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1 week later
#2567 1 year ago

I like that nazi blimp.

1 week later
#2580 1 year ago

Sure that the right coils are installed?
Check number on coil wrappers... often 11630 (red) and 11629 (blue) were used either-way.

2 weeks later
#2659 1 year ago

Be careful, PinSound-Board should powered at this connector on the left!

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#2662 1 year ago

I also use external power supply to prevent damage at powerdriver and/or reset during gameplay.

Left connection for power supply and right connection for Speakers.

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External power supply for PinSound-Board, Shaker Drive, LED-Stripe and illuminated Scorecards.

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Connect your Color-DMD directly to the powerdriver as original - no Problem due to less power consumption.

#2694 1 year ago

Very nice, stuck them on a mirror blade and put them into the cabinet - very consenting design.

#2712 1 year ago

Check 10-Opto board beneath the playfield!
Look into the Switch Matrix while Indy does selftesting and check Opto from fliptronic at the buttons.

#2725 1 year ago

Could be bad or weak connection of 12 Volt power supply at 10-Opto board.
Take a closer look to the LED that indicates correct 12 Volt.
Open coindoor and start Indy, switch into switch-test to check the switch matrix... you will see if some opto's don't work properly.
Also take a look into the schematics, there are some opto's outside the switch matrix.
Often dirty opto's at the fliptronic for the flipper buttons cause problems like you have.

#2727 1 year ago

For instance, a new Color-DMD has less power consumption as the original one, so this is not the problem!
You should check your Powerdriver for bad capacitors and burned or weak connectors!
Also think about a separate power supply for PinSound.
And my experience was that the supplied SanDisk-USB is bad - I changed to a superior provider.

#2729 1 year ago

Yes, that is a possible solution... referring to this Indy is a little Diva.
Often same problem at ball throughs cause miscalulating during gameplay.

#2753 1 year ago

If you want to illuminate the whole plastic, you need this BackPlex.
No more available and very very hard to find... I think there are only 10 Boards in the market.

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#2755 1 year ago

What do you mean with small PCB?

#2757 1 year ago

Ah I understand.
I wanted to have it as original like the Protopanel with the Lost Plastic.
I don't like cathode light or cold Illumination, so I decided to use three bright LED as GI and the LED-Board for the Illumination in the Lost Plastic area.
You can see the effect in the 5th picture with the three spots.
It's a bad picture but it's not so easy to take a better one.
Actually it's a harmonic Illumination without hard edges or lost spots... it looks really nice.

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1 week later
#2789 1 year ago

A nice topper, but Crystal Skull is deplaced for the WMS Indy.
I really hate the last part and I also refuse any symbol of that in my Indy.

2 weeks later
#2870 1 year ago

If you want to use Color DMD (LCD) and Jackpot-Board you have to do it like this.
Use a small LED-Version of the Jackpot-Board and cut the panel exactly to the shape of the symbols of the speakerpanel.

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#2872 1 year ago

I use Jackpot-Board, Color-DMD in LCD, PinSound and Shaker.
And I decided to use a separate power supply only for PinSound and Shaker.
All Illumination is LED to save the power driver.

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#2875 1 year ago

You can see two circuits mounted on the shaker box. The first in front is a regulator for the shaker speed... an adjustable resistor.
The other one is a short arduino relay that switch incoming 5V from the PinSound-Board to 12V from the separate power supply directly to the shaker motor.
The 5V will be switched by PinSound-Board for each sound triggered in the PinSound-Studio Software.
For instance, if you shoot the ball in the game, a defined sound is playing and in the Studio Software you can adjust how long an impulse of 5V will be provided to the extension port on channel A of the PinSound-Board.
And for all other sounds playing during gameplay it's possible to switch ON the extension port in milliseconds.
The grey cable is the data line incoming from the PinSound-Board.
There are two channels... actually only channel A is supported, but I stay in contact with Nicolas so in the near future it will be possible to switch the second channel B as well.

My Indy is prepared for channel B and if it works this red LED stripe beneath the cabinet will be fired by PinSound - a nice effect.

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And I built the same system for my T2...

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#2877 1 year ago

Very nice... mine are gilded, too.

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#2891 1 year ago

Airball protectors are prototypes only, I never produced more of them.
Material is 2 mm laser cut VIVAK.

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#2902 1 year ago

In my opinion the only durable method is black chrome, herewith you prevent damage due to abrasion or scratches.

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#2904 1 year ago

Coated guns don't last long, they wear as soon as you like, believe me.

#2909 1 year ago

Damn, they screwed up the biggest franchise of all time with this crap, and then that stupid show of Shia LaPeng as Indy's son.
I just pray that this son of a bitch will not play a role in the fifth part either.
He can join me in Transformers 10 again, I do not look at that shit anyway!

3 weeks later
#2963 1 year ago

First what I see on the picture above is that the wiring at the coil is ok.

Here's all the mechanic of the diverter assembly - hope it helps?
Take a closer look to the two screws, they have to be fixed with glue.
And take care that the pivot doesn't collide to the plastic or ramp and don't use lubricant anywhere!

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#2968 1 year ago

Target sticker is custom made and plotted.
Screws have to be glued according to the manual.

1 week later
#2990 1 year ago

Some selling a complete Apron for Indy?
Could be dirty or rusty, but it must be undamaged!

2 weeks later
#3018 1 year ago

Use rubbers to uncouple the circuit from the mechanic and adjust with washers for a smooth movement.
And use no lubricant!

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#3024 1 year ago

Complete cut off from the ARK is not good, you will get interference light effects because there's no border to the bottom now!
That also depends on the condition of the speaker plastic, often the colors don't cover the shape of the ARK.
Better cut off like this way next time!!!

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1 month later
#3091 1 year ago

You can put the cable in the front through the cabinet and insert a plug there, or put the cable outside through the ventilation.

#3115 1 year ago

That acception is totally wrong.
I have two machines with clear coated playfield and the quality is always the same.
But if I compare the F-14 against Indy, the F-14 is much more impassible as the Indy.
Of course F-14 gameplay is much more harder and faster but the surface hasn't that much dents like Indy has.
And remember that Indy is a diamond plate also if it's not signed as that.
Actually I restore the playfield of the T2 and it's a diamond plate, but I don't use a playfield protector either.
Take a closer look to newer games like Metallica or Ghostbusters and you will see dent next to dent - and that's a normal situation.
I'm sure playfield will get dirty and scratched because of dust and dirt beneath surface and protector.
Even gameplay is not that feeling as playing directly on the wood.
Clear coat is good but not salutary at all.

#3120 1 year ago

For the lost plastic there was an original bulb assembly available.
You can use it with bulbs and LED either.

#3122 1 year ago

Only prototypes and early production had that bulb assembly.
It looks similar to the Jackpot light board but of course it's different in size and wiring. It was mounted to the backboard left at a slot where the lost plastic was illuminated thru.
You can buy repro boards with LED and rebuild the backboard... not so difficult.
Because of increasing costs Williams droped the bulbs and later series production had no platic anymore, that's why it's called the lost plastic.
The wiring is simple with a connector in the Backbox without any other effect.

When I lit the backplex, I just connected to the GI and the LED board is placed in the same position as the one at original backboard.
So if you want to use a standard backboard, you just have to cut it out.

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#3128 1 year ago

That stainless steel border of the POA is prototype production and a very rare part!
You should take a closer look to the jackpot decal and the head of Indy, maybe you have a very rare playfield with "Dad" instead of "Dr. Jones"?

2 weeks later
#3153 1 year ago

Hi Guys,

every week the same questions regarding stability of PinSound-Board!

It just depends on three problems:

• USB Flash
• Power Supply
• Power Driver

You need a perfect working power driver without defect capacitors, then PinSound-Board could work properly.
If your power driver is old and not working properly you get resets during game play and interrupted PinSound-Board - so external power supply is recommended.
San-Disk Flash is lame and you need another more reliable USB from a better manufacturer!

#3155 1 year ago

Very well done!

#3158 1 year ago

Ah ok,
I have no experience with the Plus-Board.
But it's obviously not a problem with the power supply, because that issue should be improved with that hardware revision.
I agree that it could only be a problem with the compatibility.

2 weeks later
#3208 1 year ago

Restore the cabinet and make sure that the powerdriver will get new capacitors by refurbish.
Next to burned GI-connectors they are responsible for instable 5 Volt support that ends in unexpected resets.
Your Indy looks exactly like my Pin before I started the restoration - good luck.

#3217 1 year ago

Indy in nature - really cool pictures.
Great job...

1 month later
#3410 1 year ago

Good job and you didn't do the fault I did first with the wrong identification.

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Later I correct the identification from the movie.

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#3424 1 year ago

In my opinion the gun fire from the fighter plane ist wrong, because the original plane fires through the propeller and the guns (two MG17 with 7,92 Full Metal Jacket)) are near by each other.
That's the reason why I keep the fighter plane as it is without modification instead of the decals.
In the movie they use a Pilatus-P2 that's quit similar to the original STUKA, but not in that detail!
The STUKA was also the wrong plane and never used in WW2 in this design. That plane was manufactured by Junkers.
The correct plane is the Messerschmitt BF 109 and this one fires through the propeller.
Only later versions of the model C used to have the gunfire in the wings but that model doesn't fit to the movies time period.
Unfortunately in 1989 there was no BF 109 available to make the scenes in the movie, so they decided to use the Pilatus-P2 because a JU 87 in good technical condition was also rare to find and to dangerous to fly.

#3485 1 year ago

You can do it this way?

10 LED (1,2 V) 5 in a row each side, a capacitor and resistor... 2 LED for the holes (12 V) and a connection to the 12 Volt circuit (Activation of the POA).
The 10 LED will flash if POA is active. All LED are active... but the capacitor turns on the 2 LED for the holes constantly and a bit longer while the POA is deactivated - nice effect.
The impuls in the video ist too short and the capacitor will not be loaded complete, so the holes seem to be flashing, in gameplay the holes shine constantly.

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Here's a small video in Flasher Test Mode...

#3495 1 year ago

Call this guy (Miwi), he started a short reproduction month ago.
Really good quality and sold out in seconds... maybe he will start a new batch?


1 week later
#3539 1 year ago

WPC devices are a reliable and robust generation.
The Powerdriver likes to be broken because of outgassed capacitors (the big ones) and burnt GI plugs.
Especially in the Indy crow's feet are very ugly and difficult to clean at Marion and Willie.
Check if the device is complete.
Indy is a heavy pinball machine, check cabinet for broken parts and make sure the button still is firmly glued.
If it has the lost plastic, the POA moves, the ruin is damaged and jackpot board is installed (prototype speaker panel).
Under the POA is an open diode, this causes short circuits in the switch matrix. Check the DMD for failures in test mode.
PinSound can cause problems if the Powerdriver does not deliver a stable 5 volts, then there are resets during game play.
My suggestion is for PinSound and Color-DMD - separate power supply.
Check Software revision... latest is L7.
Check all the fuses if they a correct and in the right place.
Often the opto electronic can cause faulty game play, check ball throughs and Idol rotor lock.

2 weeks later
#3619 1 year ago

This is the Speakerpanel how you should do the wiring.

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Here on PinSound-Board.

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And in the Cabinet.

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And all cable has a connector for quick release to do service.
Solder all the cables directly to the speaker and don't use plugs - they will rattle off!

#3621 1 year ago

Adjustment via PinSound-Board for each speaker.

#3635 1 year ago

No chance to get rid off the dirt.
Same at my playfield, after thinking about a while I decided to brush all these areas and reconstruct the colors step by step.
The hardest work is the silk printed area, so the structure will be lost if you brush the colors.
This is the hot spot on Indy playfield caused by multiballs and slingshots.

#3651 1 year ago

Isn't worth money and effort, better solution is a custom made bracket similar to the other bracket in Indy.

#3679 1 year ago

Oh man, that's not good.
You use the wrong screws ... ok, if you do not use the clamp, it's not too bad, but all in all not a good solution.
You need to install the modified bracket out of the other hole and bend a little until it fits under the plastic.
And use correct bolts to safe the playfield and reinforce that area... really hard balls can pull off the bracket and damage the surface of the playfield

In fact, in your Indy the balls hit the structure behind the hole and that does not make sense.

Believe me and try this:

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#3710 1 year ago

Airball protection should be made of three parts:

1 Mode start hole (POA) to prevent short cicuit in the switch matrix
2 Target Bank (Jackpot) to prevent heavy airballs and lost balls over the left outlane
3 Lost Treasure (secret ball) to prevent damage of the Bi-Plane and plastics.

#3713 1 year ago

Here's my solution... metal bracket for POA and unbreakable Vivak-Protectors against airballs. Don't use Plexi here!

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#3720 1 year ago

Are these Idols from my German friend?

#3723 1 year ago