Here's my Indy after restoring for 18 month.

• PinSound mit digital reorchestrated Soundtrack and Sound-FX
• Color-DMD
• Modified Game ROM with permanent Frog Mode
• Speaker Panel rebuilt like Prototype
• Visaton Speaker 2.1
• BackPlex
• Clearcoated Playfield
• Inside Decals
• Euro Coin Controller
• Stern Clamps
• Non-Reflecting Glass
• Shaker Drive
• Separate Power Supply
• Illuminated Path Of Adventure
• Full LED
• Planes and Blimp labeled like in the Movie
• some Modifications (Lights in Blimp, Rotating Propeller, Illuminated Holes in POA and PF, Protectors)

DSCN2455 (resized).JPG
DSCN2413 (resized).JPG
DSCN2545 (resized).JPG
DSCN2467 (resized).JPG
DSCN2725 (resized).JPG
DSCN2762 (resized).JPG
DSCN3439 (resized).JPG
DSCN3431 (resized).JPG
DSCN2996 (resized).JPG
DSCN4162 (resized).JPG
DSCN4508 (resized).JPG
DSCN4540 (resized).JPG
DSCN4695 (resized).JPG
DSCN4596 (resized).JPG
DSCN4758 (resized).JPG
DSCN4445 (resized).JPG
DSCN4762 (resized).JPG

Frog mode is only available in the mines, if you do the right steps of movements - it's an easter egg and hidden for years.
I've patched the L7-Game ROM so the Frog is dancing every time, even if you fail in the mines - very funny.

If someone is interested in the file I can send it by e-mail.
You just have to burn the file in your ROM.
The file is recalculated with the correct checksum and will detect ROM Errors as usual.
It includes patch against LED ghosting and wrong wording "Rescue the ARC" is also corrected to "Rescue the ARK".

Send your e-mail address to [email protected]

DSCN4777 (resized).JPG
DSCN4778 (resized).JPG

I wonder about different coin doors and thought squared frames are correct.
Here I see more pins with circular shape frames.
Are both versions original?

Excellent Pinball... next to the PinSound-Board you need a Shaker, too.
Shaker will be fired by the PinSound-Board, then Indy is really perfect.

DSCN3440 (resized).JPG
DSCN3439 (resized).JPG

This Shaker is custom made.
I'm sure there's no Shaker Motor Kit available for Indy.

Yes you need a shaker in Indy!

You have to look for:

• being complete, no missing parts
• damaged mainboard with burned plugs and burst capacitors
• last software update L-7
• broken plastics
• burned translite
• damaged coin door and coin controls
• complete and right coin box (WPC)
• bended, rusty legs
• damaged cabinet and back box and bleached artwork
• damaged motors for POA and Idol, gears also
• working opto- and switch boards
• broken plastic ramp right side
• missing jackpot circuit (proto)
• lost plastic
• backpanel plain or proto with lights
• wear and tear on playfield (Lost Treasure, Indy, Willie, Marion)
• damaged playfield area behind drop targets and holes
• Speakerpanel plain or proto (Grail, Stone, Ark)
• working DMD without flickering

And this is the only one solution to prevent the switch matrix for short circuit.

Also you can see the hole protector and the modified ball deflector to catch the balls much more better then before.

dscn4591giszi (resized).jpg

This is a piece of folded spring steel and I drilled it that it fits exactly to the switch bracket.
Mostly the balls become airborne if they hit the drop targets next to the mode hole and then the switch bracket under the POA will be hit and short the switch matrix or burn the diode.
I also use the same gutter (modified) at the mode hole that is mounted left to the entry of the ball through.
With this modification you get 7 of 10 balls locked into the mode hole and you protect the plastics around that area, too.

dscn4692eusb6 (resized).jpg

I did that for my Indy also and as a hint please check if LED is working properly before you reassemble the POA - later you can't swap them easy, each time a LED is damaged you have to disassemble the POA again.

To remove the POA you just have to disconnect the plugs under the playfield, loose the internal wrench bolt at the drive motor (be careful not to damage the screw) and loose the bracket in front of the POA.
Then you can pull the POA slowly off the drive shaft.

@Damien: You have to remember that Indy use Fliptronic in combination with opto-electronic. First ensure that both opto-electronics for flipper fingers are clean and working properly. Next is Fliptronic, that pulse the coils for every ~30 ms while attracted to save coil and electric. It's recommended that EOS are adjusted correct and accurate or the fingers will suspend the balls more or less and the fingers could fall down if hit by a ball. Take a look into the Manual.

EOS for Fliptronic are always open and barely close at the end of stroke. Try to adjust a space of 1.5-2.0 mm between the contacts.

This is the coil protection and know you must adjust the EOS in that way, that it's closed a little bit earlier before the plunger reach the end of stroke. It's a bit tricky but the only way... try and error.
In fact, you need a depreciation area where the flipper can move a bit without opening the EOS.
If EOS opens to early flipper will shot back again, if it opens to late it will be powerless and fall down.
You have to find the right position.
I know several pinball machines (WPC) with that issue... so is mine.
If you don't like it, you may lump it.

No,
EOS with Fliptroic (WPS) is always open if flipper is not pressed.
EOS should have contact at the end of stroke... of course a little bit earlier.
Don't confuse with other Systems, for instance System 11!

This is the description from the original Indy manual section 1-46.

Flipper Switches
This game uses the new Fliptronic II Electronic Flipper System. The End-of-Stroke switches are
NORMALL Y OPEN. The switch should close when the flipper is energized. All E.O.S. switches and
flipper button cabinet switches are gold flashed computergrade leaf switches. Only low computer current
is carried through these switches. DO NOT FILE or abrasively clean these switches! DO NOT REPLACE
these switches with the old style tungsten high current type switches as intermittent operation could
occur. Note: Unlike the old style of flipper, an E.O.S. switch failure does not harm the flipper. The game
notifies the operator of the switch being mis-adjusted in the test report, but continues to play. The E.O.S.
switches are a means by which the new electronic flippers feel and play with all of the subtleties of the old
flippers.

Here's a Picture of my Indy, but the assembly is modified with STERN Clamps and bronze bearings.

DSCN4483 (resized).JPG

I know some pinheads suppose that the soldering of the wiring might brake, but for me it's just a philosophic lining.

Here's my solution for all your problems... no foam is needed.

First drill the left and right hole of the bracket and use cage nuts.
This will increase the stability and you will have no more broken wood in that area top of the playfield.

DSCN4172 (resized).JPG

Next use the same sheet metal from the hole behind the drop targets and modify it like that it's fits under the plastic... you just have to change the angle a little bit.

This bent sheet metal is the secret.

DSCN4647 (resized).JPG

If needed use a cliffy protector to save fringe range of the hole top of the playfield.

zzzz (resized).jpg

Next mount the plastic with some washers to get more distance to the surface.

DSCN4224 (resized).JPG

DSCN4225 (resized).JPG

Beneath of the POA protect the switch with a small bracket.

DSCN4394 (resized).JPG

I promise 8 of 10 shots will be catched into the mode hole and your switch matrix is safe against short circuit.
This makes Indy much more playable without having trouble.

No, the switch bracket is selfmade and it fits perfect to the mounting holes of the switch.

Buy it it's worth it more then other mods!
And consider the possibility to run a Shaker.

First you should remove it and disassamble.
Mine was clinched and I filed off the edge of the shackle and it works ball park.

DSCN4292 (resized).JPG

You can switch between different sound sets presumed original wav and custom wav are installed.

Especially for Indy there's only one useful mix available, of course unofficial and no more available on public Websites - thank you Rick.
This mix is a masterpiece of reorchestration and hocks your Indy into another dimension of Music and Sound.

You can have more than one Soundtrack on the flash drive and you can switch during gameplay between.
And if you have more experience you can mix your own Soundtrack for really funny or weird effects.

In my opinion this Mix is the only one if you want to have shaker support, because the most preliminary work is done.
And the quality is another dimension without doubt.

Board supports Shaker via 5 Volt switchable circuit.
You need PinSound-Studio and custom built Shaker.

You have to built the Shaker on your own - not so difficult.
Maybe PinSound will provide a Shaker kit later?

If you change to LED you need a modified ROM to prevent ghost lighting effect.
I can send you the file to burn if you want.

You can chose between:

• English with corrected wording (ARK instead of ARC) and LED-Patch
• English with corrected wording (ARK instread of ARC) and LED-Patch and secret frog-mode (Mines)

Here on PinSide there are some guys using my modified ROM without any trouble.
You have to know that the file is checksum corrected with full self-testing.

I have disassembled every assembly of my Indy and I never saw a sticker or something else on a bracket.
Maybe a bigger coil was used and to prevent against short circuit someone put a sticker between?

You're right, and I can see it in the picture in the drawing, but I didn't use it.
Before disassembling there was no sticker and I wonder about of what it's used for?
Maybe to reduce virbrations that damage the opto electronic?
Or just to reduce noise of coil stop?
I use small rubbers to reduce vibration of coil and balls at the card cage.

DSCN4295 (resized).JPG

If you take a closer look you will see small lines that mark the edge of a mylar protector.
Most Indys don't have a mylar in that area, but of course there are some specimen in the field.

Official there are no playfield reproductions for IJ, but you can get very good playfield from a guy in Hungary.
Sometimes these playfields are offered on Ebay!
I saw this playfield more than once and it's really very very good work in silk screen printing!
A typical attitude to identify these playfields are the repetitive serial number that is often the same.

THIS is the area where you get in trouble if the ball hits the switch.
Switch matrix then will get in confusion and adds more players during gameplay.

I Just build a small bracket to protect the switch and it works.

2 (resized).jpg

3 (resized).jpg

1 (resized).jpg

Take a look at manual page 2-47 on position 78
Switch number is: 12688-1
Take a look in the wiring diagramm page 3-2 in column 6 and 7 and row 2-8 (mini)

Use the wiring attached to the old switch!

If balls from the center lock are not recognized, check the 10 Opto Board beneath the playfield if it's powered by 12 volt.
There's a LED that indicates existing voltage.
Often a loosen or damaged plugs are the reason if Indy gets confused during game play.
A quick solution is possible if you enter the service menu when Indy displays a damage report.
In that case the damage report shows errors at POA switches.

I got the same problems with the flippers caused by weak WILLIAMS clamps, so i decided to use STERN clamps... very similar to DATA EAST and much more stable and easier to use without bending the clamps itsself.
A very good improvement that I first tested in my F-14 with great success.

DSCN4298 (resized).JPG

DSCN4299 (resized).JPG

DSCN4300 (resized).JPG

Take a look in the manual where all assemblies are shown in detail.

Take a look at the small Ramp on the right of the back panel. Left of it there's a plate very similar to yours.

DSCN4489 (resized).JPG

That's really cool - great idea.

Goto The Internet Pinball Database and take a look into the parts list, you should find all build in parts and the amount of them.

parts list (resized).PNG

The mod is a good idea, but faulty in the area of the hidden ramp thru the lost treasure lane.
If a ball gets airborne it has so much energy that the plastic on the left and right will be damaged very soon.
You should modify the clear plastic on both sides, so the the ball couldn't reach the plastic!

Ok, I had the same idea last year when I started testing Indy in play.
I think I will think about it again in Winter... Indy needs some maintenance and then it's one job.
Hopefully this modification will work... good job.

It's absolutely confusing, but it's correct, all of them and lots of other Pins have these guides, too.
More wicked is the fact that the small metal flags of the guides squeeze into the playfield.
I often use small washer between playfield and guides to protect the surface.

When I first saw these small guide lane I thougt the screw was broken.
I talked to some other Indy Players and they confirm that these parts are original.

Be fast, I'm on vacation next week.

Check OPTO-Electronic, both flipper OPTO-Electronics and 10 OPTO-Board, often 12 Volt connector is faulty.

Don't do that - look at my solution - it work's.
Just use the same metal part from the ohter hole, cut it aprox. 3-5 mm and bend it a little bit down.
Catching 8 of 10 balls with this assembly.

DSCN4692 (resized).JPG

DSCN4647 (resized).JPG

And make sure to protect the switch under the POA to prevent short circuits in the switch matrix.

DSCN4445 (resized).JPG

Material is 2 mm spring steel.

DSCN4393 (resized).JPG

DSCN4394 (resized).JPG

DSCN4395 (resized).JPG

Dear all,

please feel free to make this little protector to make Indy much more playable - and I don't want to have anything.
This is just a hobby and we all want to have fun and a great time, so go on.
But I'm glad to be asked for - thank you guys.

Hope these weak Williams Clamps will work, I swapped to STERN Clamps.
And the cheap plastic bearings are very bad, I swapped to bronze bearings, too.

Look into the spare parts list.

This bracket should be golden to apply perfect with the ramp.
And more helpful is the little cliffy behind the drop target to protect the playfield.

dscn4574vtsmg (resized).jpg

I remember same issue at the POA.
I carefully distend the sockets, but it's very important that you first test the LED of function.
I had the experiece that often the LED need to be turned into the socket if they don't light.
It will be a lot of work if you assemble the POA and build it in and then you dicover that some LED don't work!

Can somebody tell me the measurements for the airball-protectors for both drop targets?

No, if you finishid the POA connect it to the wiring and check all LED.

DSCN4335 (resized).JPG

DSCN4376 (resized).JPG

DSCN4384 (resized).JPG

DSCN4539 (resized).JPG

You have to be very careful with the screws of the Apron bow and the screws that fix the Apron to the metal blades!
Often the cage nuts brake apart of the clamps and then you get in trouble to disassemble the Apron without damaging the surface of the playfield.
I went to a welding specialist to reinforce the cage nuts!

Indy's legs have been made of stainless stell and galvanized with golden Surface, the screws as well.

DSCN2518 (resized).JPG

DSCN4740 (resized).JPG

Davi

it's a great idea to rebuild the Idol Lock Assembly, because most of them are in bad condition or already broken, go ahead.

Prototype looks very good - great Job.
I don't know but I really believe this spare won't sold anywhere.

Door lock is out of stock in Germany, too.

DSCN4360 (resized).JPG

I prefer galvanized in black Chrom... vintage look.
Between gun and decal I placed a selfmade protector to prevent that the gun sticks to the decal and damage it if the gun must be removed concerning a faulty switch.

DSCN3149 (resized).JPG

DSCN3146 (resized).JPG

DSCN3135 (resized).JPG

DSCN3349 (resized).JPG

I have it... if you have a dropbox (1 GB) I can upload the latest package.

Not bad, orange fits best but there's no more space for a nazi blimp.

dscn4759gnuam (resized).jpg

What blades?

Ahh ok, that are mirror blades with decals on it.

DSCN4392 (resized).JPG

DSCN4450 (resized).JPG

DSCN4452 (resized).JPG

DSCN4457 (resized).JPG

DSCN4459 (resized).JPG

DSCN4458 (resized).JPG

I have the files of these decals, but they have 100 MB each.
If someone has a dropbox I can upload for you.

no hurry,
just send me access code and I will upload as soon as possible.
I also have a high resolution complete scan of the playfield and POA, if it's interessting?

Why a scan? I've send you the complete playfield in hires scan yesterday?

Excellent job... hope the stress test will bring you useful results.

Great idea and think about an option to install some lighting?

Holes for the screws or for lamp sockets... yes, something like that.

No good pictures, but there's space in some areas, you will see if you reassemble Indy again.

DSCN4402 (resized).JPG

DSCN4403 (resized).JPG

DSCN4363 (resized).JPG

Maybe your prototype game has another detail on the playfield... very rare are playfields with:
• Indy Senior called Dad instead of Dr. Jones
• The wings besides Eternal Life are different
• The insert super Jackpot is different
• POA has borders in stainless steel instead of red Plastics
• Game ROM Revision is earlier than L-3 and labeled with P for prototype
• Speaker Panel has a circuit board with bulbs for ARK, Cup and Stone on it
• Backpanel has always the lost plastic with a circuit board with bulbs on it

Begin to protect the playfield with Mylar:

• Slingshot left and right
• Drop targets

DSCN4922 (resized).JPG

DSCN4919 (resized).JPG

DSCN4920 (resized).JPG

Next step is the airball protector above the drop targets - still waiting for delivery of my prototypes.

Good idea with the BA9 socket.

Now here's my airball protector for the drop targets... material is Vivak, more flexible and stable as Plexi.

DSCN4923 (resized).JPG

DSCN4924 (resized).JPG

DSCN4928 (resized).JPG

Be careful, if you have the prototype Panel you must take a closer look to the space between the DMD (LCD,LED doesn't matter) and the Jackpot board.
The original board doesn't fit between Panel and DMD, you need a small LED-reproduction board.
Another problem is that the standard bulbs become to hot and will damage the DMD and the Panel, sooner or later.
Believe me, this is the only one solution to combine DMD and Jackpot with new better engineering.

DSCN2996 (resized).JPG

DSCN2409 (resized).JPG

DSCN2998 (resized).JPG

DSCN3000 (resized).JPG

DSCN3003 (resized).JPG

DSCN3008 (resized).JPG

DSCN3025 (resized).JPG

Original the Panel has three big rectangular holes.

Proto-Speakerpanel (resized).jpg

The Problem is that the small LED reproduction will not work properly because the holes are too big.

I transmit the symbols from the Panel to the Board and cut out the outlines only.

DSCN2986 (resized).JPG

DSCN2988 (resized).JPG

DSCN2990 (resized).JPG

DSCN2987 (resized).JPG

DSCN2996 (resized).JPG

That's exactly what I did.

No, I use a LED board with original panel.
Just shape cutout and it's perfect.

The color of the caps next to the star posts have to be red.
And white rubbers...

Nice work, your Indy will be a beauty again, but still missing Cliffy at the drop target?
Left of the "I" behind the plate there's the spot with the missing light we're talking about... just connect it parallel to the four lights of INDY and use the same socket.
I decided black chrome on the gates and all original color design for rubbers, bumpers, etc.
And what do you do with the ramps?
My ramps are gold-plated and they shine like a treasure, quite expensive but worth it.

Available spare looks like this.

DSCN4360 (resized).JPG

I have added the "Ark of the Covenant" right over the shooting lane.
Bought it at Ebay for 10 Euro.
All used parts are any parts from F-14 and INDY.
Additional I've illuminated it with blue light and I placed a thin pane of a glass plate between.
The circuit is easy and consist only a Diode, two capacitors and two LED.
The bracket is from F-14 Tomcat and fits perfect to the gap of screws of the plastic.

DSCN4691 (resized).JPG

DSCN4710 (resized).JPG

DSCN4712 (resized).JPG

DSCN4714 (resized).JPG

DSCN4721 (resized).JPG

DSCN4725 (resized).JPG

DSCN4718 (resized).JPG

Really impressive... go ahead.

I remember a guy in Hungary who does reproduction and the playfields are not that bad, but rare.

L-7 Game ROM at IPDB for download... http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1267

Loose the screws from BackPanel and bent the ramp infront of the Plastic, but take care not to scratch it.
Then fix the screws step by step.

Ramp should fit without bending... sure the bolts of the backpanel are in right position, or the panel itself?
Panel must stand in right angled to the playfield.

Often the panels are a little bit deformed, take a closer look.
Loose the screws and fit in the ramp and then fix the screws again but carefully.
Are the two bolt on the playfield crooked... the ramp must fit in place without violence.
Also, keep in mind that the ramp was maybe mounted without lost plastic, the plactic is approx. 2mm thicker and so the ramp doesn't fit?

It must fit... here's my ramp mounted to an illuminated BackPlex.

Unbenannt (resized).PNG

dscn4461t1s3k (resized).jpg

This part should be the same in other Pinball Machines - is there no chance to find it by part number of the part list?

I decided old fashion look and painted the IDOL.

DSCN4241 (resized).JPG

DSCN4236 (resized).JPG

Good job and thank you for removing all that stupid doll shit!

Use the spacer to have a wider angle of the LED shining through the lost plastic. If it's to tight you will have spots only and that looks not so good.
It's different to the Jackpot-Board if you use a Color-DMD, there you have no choice because there's no space enought with that combination.

The main playfield should be cross balanced 0 degrees.
Then alongside try a pitch of 6-7 degrees, not more.
The POA must work perfect with that measurement, if not there's something wrong... bend or worn.
After my restoration I didn't need to adjust anything at the POA... it works perfect.
Don't raise the POA that much, at the end Indy is unplayable because you will never get the balls on the left side around the first hole... the balls will be too fast and you have no time to switch them on the right.
Result... often you will loose the balls... again and again.
It's not that much easy but if you change the angle of the POA alongside, it's much more difficult to play.

Do something for the POA?
Borders and Holes only switch on if POA is active... Borders begin flashing if right ramp is activated.
If Mission fails all lamps shut off immediately.

DSCN4376 (resized).JPG

DSCN4383 (resized).JPG

DSCN4384 (resized).JPG

DSCN4379 (resized).JPG

DSCN4380 (resized).JPG

DSCN4381 (resized).JPG

DSCN4382 (resized).JPG

DSCN4449 (resized).JPG

A very simple series connection with some LED, Resistors, Diode and a Capacitor.

Take a look here - during gameplay the Flasher is more quickly with much better effect.

It's only a LED and the same at the other hole. They glow with the GI.
In the video they seem shine like a torch but this depends on the frequency of the room light and the camera.

The original Bracket is scrap and the reason of all the problems.
It should be changed against this one: #01-8806

Wow, yes that's it!
Great Job and I'm glad to help in this case.
I bet this part will save your Indy's from angry and expensive damage.
Take care and bend the resistor/Diode away from the protector... it may not have contact with it!

Here's my prototype... looks very similar... well done.

DSCN4445 (resized).JPG

DSCN4591 (resized).JPG

Yes that can be a problem, if all balls are removed and the playfield is pulled up, switch on and check LED at 10 Opto-Board... if dead 12 V is missing or connection is bad.
Often at these boards the connectors are weak or the big resistors are damaged while overheating during gameplay.
In my opinion a bad design because high temperatures by too big voltage drop are produced. Maybe at that time 5 volts were not likely sufficient with the wire-length... however.

Unbenannt (resized).JPG

Unbenannt (resized).JPG

See three picture before...

Yes, very well done.

The Lost Treasure decal is a problem, you need a stencil to airbrush the decal.

I'm not sure, but the insert don't have the "Lost Treasure" - it's blank?

Of Course it's green but no decal on it!
There's a choice between stencil (airbrush) or sticker.

This is the secret of an airbrushed decal in that area.
A stencil to brush the white and black Color.

Unbenannt (resized).JPG

My decal was damaged, too.

DSCN3753 (resized).JPG

After the airbrush it Looks much more better.

DSCN3922 (resized).JPG

Insert was ok, only the surface was damaged during removing the mylar, so the decal was damaged, too.
Often these decals were damaged because air diffuse through.

Mask the area, sanding with different grain size, clean with 2-propyl-alcohol, clear coat, polish, clear coat, polish, decal, clear coat...a few times.

Maybe a scan of the playfield would help?
Send me your e-mail adress...