Quoted from Guzz4851:

Power help....thanks to Rensh , Mike M., Rdoyle and a few others for the assistance so far. Thank you!
So I think I know what to do but before I go and do anything I want to ask for confirmation.
I’m connecting external power supply to run lcd and Pinsound. I just want them off the pinballs power driver board.
This game is a reimport so no plug. It was suggested to use the AC power to the coin door dollar bill validator. Upon inspection my game does not have this. So here is my idea...
AC from wall comes into the power box, through the line filter, then out to the switch. From there it comes out the power box to a large molex connector that feeds the transformer. In order to tap the AC current I would splice the black, white wires between the power box and the molex connector that is feeding the transformer. I would create a splitter and off that line run AC power to the switching power supply and ground the power supply to metal power box. From there I have it covered in terms of what DC voltages go where.
See pics as a reference. One is the wires going in and out of power box, another inside the power box as described above , and the other is of me holding the wire I’m considering splicing.
Can anyone confirm for me if what I want to do will work and be the appropriate way to run AC to an external power supply? Thanks in advance for reading this and offering some advice. Much appreciated.

Quoted from Guzz4851:

Never thought of that. Rensh mentioned a plug earlier maybe that was it.
Ok so if I go that route where in the power box does it get wired to?
This essentially could then feed into and external power supply AC line. I would want the outlet to be hot only when switched on otherwise mods would always be on...or I’d have to unplug and plug in.
Thanks for offering that suggestion. Could be much cleaner/easier.

Quoted from Guzz4851:

Thanks for the link! Its certainly an option. I'm not sure yet about this as the plug will always be hot since I don't unplug my machine.
My other idea was to de-pin the two A/C wires on the Molex connector and re-pin them with a double wire in each pin - original going into the transformer and the jumper set fed to the switching power supply. If done this way I'll be able to control everything with the cabinet switch, thus powering everything on at once.
Thank you for your feedback!

Quoted from Inpw:

I made up my mind and am in the process of going full incandescent. I think the game really profits from the warmer and softer light and I actually don't mind having to change the bulbs a bit more often. I'm sure you could get almost the same results with LED OCD, but to me it's not worth the pricetag and hassle to get it just right.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

He did say, "Full incandescent".

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I'm also thrilled to see so many incandescent-bulb-lovers come out of the woodwork for this machine. And I thought I was the only one!
[quoted image]

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Wow, 18 members after six years. The popularity is through the roof! Looks like I missed the mark on that "dozens" meme.

Quoted from vec-tor:

The one connector that you have a picture of looks like the wrong style; for what
Williams has.
You might have to make an intermittent connector to fit the driver board.
Or, repin the wires to the correct connector required for the WPC system.

Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

What spring should be on here?