(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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  • 11,721 posts
  • 671 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by blardo
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Soulrider911.
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#1897 6 years ago

Well I have been patiently waiting for a solid IJ to come up near me and one finally did going to pick it up today! Really excited I'm a huge Indy fan and it's such a great theme

10
#1910 6 years ago

So excited to be part of the IJ club starting today. Picked up a serious diamond in the ruf, was in a climate controlled stirage for the last 23 years, truly an amazing find check out the inside, bad still stapled to the left

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1 month later
#2048 6 years ago

Need some help guys, so i'm still trying to "dial in" my indy. I have noticed that about 85% of the time i hit the left ramp the ball sails off the wireform and bounces off the pane or something else, totally out of control. Any ideas? Tweaks? etc... thanks

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#2079 6 years ago

Hey guys, Where can I get those amazing illuminated drop targets!! Those are awesome

#2082 6 years ago

PeterG your right, I think the tendency is to go into "mod mode" as I think we can all fall victim to. Yes this Indy is amazing, and i want to keep it as original as possible.

When I purchased my INDY all I intended to do was the following

• Clear playfield and deep clean.. ✔DONE
• Add leds, ✔DONE
• New Balls and Rubbers, ✔DONE
• Add a brass kit, which I have..., ✔DONE <-Should I NOT install this? Really all it needs is new legs

Thanks for putting me in check, I think the airball protector is the one necessity, and exception.

#2084 6 years ago

Djshakes 100% agree, what did you find worked best for the mode hole? I ordered some dead drop foam and was going to modify the ball guide deflector>

#2092 6 years ago

Djshakes shoot I just got mine, and yes I have the lost plastic, can I just sand it a bit? ALso thank you so much, question... I have not tried to install yet, but the plastic is super thick, do I need new hardware to attach?

#2105 6 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I made a rookie mistake and installed the pop bumper screws before the ball guides which must be pounded in, preferably on a solid workbench. Sooooo, The pop bumper screws are sticking out. Would it be OK to pound the ball guides in with the playfield sitting on the rotisserie? Will that hurt anything? I know I got limited options

I think you should be ok, as long as you using something to support the impact from the underside, so the impact can be absorbed locally and not shake the whole playfield if that makes sense.

2 weeks later
#2187 6 years ago

Was able to get Joe at pingraffix to run me off a set of their decals. I was on the fence about installing these. But i have to say it really is a nice addition to the overall theme.

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#2189 6 years ago

Ya dude!! Djshakes can't wait to play it and not have balls fly all over the place

#2202 6 years ago

THis may be a dumb question... but I can not seem to find an answer. Where in the test menu can I define the requirements for the high scores??? On a Stern, for example, you can easily change the 1-5 high scores and grand champion score? Any help would be great

2 weeks later
#2297 6 years ago

There are few different ones out there @KornFreak28. These ones are pretty good very theme accurate:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/indiana-jones-gameblades

#2344 6 years ago

liorillusion this topic comes up a lot, and I'll let others chime in. The consensus I have is newer machines LCD older led if you want to retain part of the classic dot matrix look, I'm putting an led in my Indy

#2346 6 years ago

liorillusion I have an led and looks to be same matrix to me but I can look close this evening

1 week later
1 month later
#2510 6 years ago

Hey Indy owners where are you guys adjusting your flippers. Mine sit slightly above the metal dowels and I'm finding it really hard to hit ramps

1 month later
#2598 6 years ago

ramsfan this is interesting you are mentioning this... as my Indy has a very similar behavior and I have not yet inspected the kicker.

#2599 6 years ago

KornFreak28 that is amazing! Can I ask where you ordered them from? I need one for my FT restore cheers!

#2605 6 years ago

freeman titan os the only way to go I have them on all my machines they’re awesome. A buddy has the translucent ones they look great... as long as u keep them clean. Some games like POTC would. It be a good candidate as they get notoriously dirty because of the spinning disk

#2610 6 years ago

freeman he has cool leds, but I don’t think it will really matter. The cool thing with the translucent rubbers is they kinda disappear and don’t “stand out” if you will

2 months later
#2978 6 years ago

I rarely play my Indy and finally got a chance to play a few games last night and got a personal best, so much fun what a great game

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3 weeks later
#3012 6 years ago

So I think I finally found a solution (on my Indy) for the mode hole after trying a number of options. I previously had drop dead foam installed and removed the deflector all together. Problem with this, is you lose the satisfying and intentional sound the ball makes when it connects. So I decided to remove it all and tweak until it was good enough.

First I shimmed the saucer with some fairly thick washers. Next I slotted the ball decrkext and bent it until I could get the balm in about 90% of the time. I’m Happy with it

2 weeks later
#3041 6 years ago

Look ma! A jackpot board with an LCD color DMD!! Thanks to Galactimus love it!

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#3048 5 years ago

I’d agree with jake35 I about fell over when I handed 8k over for mine. BUT it’s my favorite game just an amazing pin!

#3054 5 years ago

I went Led on my machine and I love it... BUT I'm using LED OCD and would not do it without it.

1 week later
#3073 5 years ago

sprite yes this is pretty common. Mine did this as well. I took of the wire form and bent it a bit and now it only sails out about 15% of the time, and the ball has to be blasted up there.

This is one of the reasons many people bag on Indy. BUT!... if you take the time to dial in all the oddities one of the best games ever!

#3075 5 years ago

Flippy was he referring to the end of the wireform where the ball drop is and it can occasionally “hop” over the guide...?

I thought he was referring to midway near the plane? Either way great suggestion on the post rubbers! I may try that

#3078 5 years ago
Quoted from sprite:

Thanks I will tweak the wireform a bit. My pitch is at 7 degrees so I don't want to go any steeper than that. My flippers are newly rebuilt so they are pretty strong.
It jumps off by the plane.

Yup mine was doing the same as the flippers on mine are new. I bent a little and the washers sounds like a great idea as well

2 weeks later
#3113 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Guys, need your advise: assembly with or without playfield protector (and why)?

Only if your going to route it... or plan on playing 5000 games a day lol

3 weeks later
#3167 5 years ago

delt31 I have the lost plastic on mine, didn’t actually k ow they made a decal. Anyway yes you will need to remove the back ramp to the the POA, and the captive ball I believe

2 weeks later
#3215 5 years ago

Quick get that beauty out of the sun the decals are gonna fade! All kidding aside, beautiful!!

#3224 5 years ago

Of your going to replace leds on POA, o HIGLY recommend using bendies.. bendable leds, it results in much unwanted light spread and better looking inserts

1 month later
#3377 5 years ago

KornFreak28 yes they are short hex head wood screws, very similar to the ones used on the bottom of the playfield to attach switches

2 weeks later
#3515 5 years ago

Bummed that the coveted Disneyland Indy is no longer. But still got myself a nice pin

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#3521 5 years ago

skyrex yup I use to see it in the bengal bbq in the corner, it’s no where to be found. Maybe they are doing a playfield swap haha

1 week later
#3543 5 years ago

Hey gac it’s not that bad, the captive ball is the only area that can be a pain. It took me about 30 minutes to install. You will Have to adjust the the up post on the rear rap that is right before the poa entrance, due to the thickness added by the lost plastic. But it’s well Worth the installation time.

4 months later
1 month later
#4106 5 years ago

I cut thin strips of adhesive felt and attach them in 4 spots in the side of the playfield... never had a scratch since

2 weeks later
#4151 5 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Has anyone tried this replacement ball deflector?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8806
This one is curved compared to the original. I've only seen the straight (original design) replacements available up until this point. This may be irrelevant, but it's something that I just noticed, and I look at this crap a lot!

So that deflector will work, but you have to remove the plastic as it’s too tall. There is an Indy on location near me that has that exact deflector on it and you still get the occasional ball reject. that deflector is actually intended for the ball
Lock shot behind the drop targets...

I have found the following gives me a true 75% success rate:
- lowering the saucer
- slotting the deflector so you can move it back
- bending the deflector to the proper angle

I tried the drop foam, and though it does help a lot with shot success not for me,,, part of pinball is satisfying sounds and that kills the clunk you get when you knock it in there.

1 week later
#4189 5 years ago

Love these discussions... LCD all day over here Animations look way better IMO

#4198 5 years ago

Looks great! Really like how subtle the treatment is, well done!

#4204 5 years ago

pacman11 check the opto board? make sure plugs are all seated, are the caps still good? Any indication of overheating? Sometimes re-flowing solder on the connector points can help.

#4239 5 years ago

wolfemaaan I guess it depends who you talk to I have a rare 100% original (goodie bag still stapled inside) and mine came with brass, they have patina’d a bit with age but definitely mine didn’t come with chrome.

#4243 5 years ago

Point of clarification, the original brass legs that where on mine are not polished

#4247 5 years ago

wolfemaaan sure thing soon as I am home, and no I have polished brass on the machine now but Kept all the original parts so if I sell it buyer has the originals.

1 month later
#4401 4 years ago

Just got my cpr backglass wow! The mirroring is really awesome, adds some
nice depth. The color saturation is definitely different. It’s a cooler tone and slightly desaturated compared to the original. There is also some subtle differences in the font. But over all I really like it!

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#4404 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Anything you don’t like about it? Is it a major improvement over original?

I actually like that it’s not overly color graded orange... meaning the colors look more natural, and the mirroring is awesome. Only thing is it will not fit with the lift channel. But I like it a lot!

#4406 4 years ago

So I installed the top, left, and right trim just not the bottom. As far as I can tell actually only really need the sides. To get the glass out u have to use your palms and push it up. This backglass is thicker than the old glass and translite

#4412 4 years ago

Nice Ricochet would you mind posting a pic? here is a pic of mine lit and unlit, I need to change out some of my leds in the backbox as they are colored and that was a different phase of my life lol.

Also pretty sure you could get the lift trim to work you would need to cut out the inner edges to thin it down then would probably work fine
sbs (resized).pngsbs (resized).png

#4414 4 years ago

Got my lift channel to fit just needed a little trimming

#4421 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

No but many including myself put one in.

I installed one as well, kinda odd it comes this way from the factory

1 week later
2 weeks later
#4527 4 years ago

Put a sub in Indy sounds so much better!

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2 weeks later
#4562 4 years ago

I have reached out a few times, he has been super busy. I may try to print some as I have a 3D printer as of recently, I’ll let you know how it goes, but I don’t want to impede on his turf I would not sell them but if I can make a model that works I’d just share the file. Some are already available on thingverse

#4569 4 years ago

I would start with simple green and some elbow grease you would be surprised what that will accomplish and non abrasive

3 months later
#4865 4 years ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

Please give me your opinions, I have the opportunity to powdercoat my indy in 3 colors, gold, silver or black, which one should I choose? Thanks[quoted image]

Your Indy is beautiful. Honestly, nothing beats brass plating on an Indy. Yes it costs about 2x as much as powder coating, but You will not regret it. I have brass on mine from sc93cobra and I would never have it any other way

1 month later
1 month later
#5214 4 years ago

Anyone interested in a new POA Ruins and Idol mod?

SOLD!
Mod - For Sale
New (selling multiple, business) - “I have brand new; idol ruins and set of POA rails for the mini-playfield. I just ended up not installing them. Highly detailed works of art. Think I paid like 450.00+ or something ...”
2020-01-26
Walnut Creek, CA
360 (OBO)
Archived after: 18 days
Viewed: 236 times
Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)
Contributed to Pinside

4 months later
#6066 3 years ago

Hey, folks need your help. I was working on my Indy today, just replaced some lane guides, but also did some cleaning in the cabinet so I was moving wires around. However, I have an error now a no-ball launch.
The error is: Er. Single Drp. Bad chk. switch/coil

However in switch test and solenoid test all works. Could this be a fuse?

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1 month later
#6396 3 years ago

Baby Indy

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1 month later
#6564 3 years ago

Well Indy fans this is something I have wanted to do for a long time. I present to you the notorious, the rare, the holy grail of IJ's only 1/24 the size. The Disneyland IJ Miniature; complete with mahogany trim, baboo legs, and it even has rope.

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#6567 3 years ago

Thank you so much. If anyone would like one I will be making a few more for sale

#6577 3 years ago

My OCD got the best of me... the original does not have backbox hinges, and it needed wood trim on the front of the backbox, now we are official 9556E38D-5B23-48D0-9CA3-F91B334F15E2 (resized).jpeg9556E38D-5B23-48D0-9CA3-F91B334F15E2 (resized).jpeg2E3905C5-95CB-4087-9C02-D9F2590CAB78 (resized).jpeg2E3905C5-95CB-4087-9C02-D9F2590CAB78 (resized).jpegD3C8372F-DA23-4F2E-AA6D-7EC8A846C8B4 (resized).jpegD3C8372F-DA23-4F2E-AA6D-7EC8A846C8B4 (resized).jpeg

8 months later
4 weeks later
#8262 2 years ago

Looks amazing!!! I have a cpr on mine as well they look killer! I the game is off waaay better than the translite

#8266 2 years ago

I can. It wait to get mine!!! Best mods are ones that aid gameplay and this is the single most important mod for an Indy IMO to improve playability

#8278 2 years ago

Ordered mine, got the delux, I think it’s great!

#8312 2 years ago

I’m about to do decals on my Indy. For sure not doing rad calls. Personally I love the factory look, and I actually embrace the process. Going to sand, fill, paint, then re-decal… basically a cab restore rascals do look cool… but something about the nostalgia gets lost

#8314 2 years ago

Mine already has brass on it… ill have to remove the side rails very carefully My game arguably does not really need it… only one side is slightly faded, and the cab is nice… but Im overly meticulous.. its actually a pretty rare example, home use only still has goodie bag attached.

1 week later
#8365 2 years ago

Agreed I used a buthamburg pf on a terminator restore, gorgeous playfield solid clear coat and superb customer service. They are top notch

2 months later
2 months later
#9225 2 years ago

I have a set of these they are amazing! He did a great job on these

3 months later
#9567 2 years ago

Anyone in need of a right ramp? I have one that is in really great condition

1 year later
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