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Quoted from Bumper:So it seems I bought a project pin.
Dude, you own a TZ according to your game list, so this IJ should be a cake-walk....
I just recently picked up my Indiana Jones... while restoring it, i noticed that the upper left corner of the playfield under the path of adventure was sagging. after further inspection, i found out the left playfield rail was broken in 2 places. after a trip to home depot, i replaced it with a 1-1/8x1/2x43 inch oak board, sanded and painted black. playfield is now perfectly flat and good as new. the original rail separated at the finger joints under the black laminate in 2 places. i took some photos of the broken rail
Quoted from Rondogg:What kind of screw holds the POA to the shaft. Is it a regular screw or one of those sunken allen wrench screws? Mine has a regular screw and It's having a hard time holding the poa and I don't want to overtighten, Thanks.
Sunken allen wrench set screw.
EDIT:
The manual doesn't show that particular set screw, but it does show the one right next to it which is for the opto interrupt arm.. that part number is this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4008-01076-04
Other IJ Pinheads may be able to comment if that is the same screw
Like I said in my previous post, the manual does not list that screw anywhere. That's why I said maybe the one right next to it is the same, and listed the part number for it. Couldn't hurt to order one and try.
You are referring to this one, which the owners manual does not list:
Quoted from Bos98:Well I didn’t want to sink so much money in to a Festool so I bought the Bosch 1250DEVS
I have the exact same sander, and have used it to restore a TZ as well as a TOTAN, and it works GREAT. About to do my Indy cab...
Quoted from Bos98:It was easy and pretty fast. I bought cheap paper from Amazon so not sure if that impacted the time it took but I would certainly recommend this sander to anyone looking to do a cabinet and not wanting to drop over $1000 to do it.
I agree. I bought the Bosch brand 60, 120 and 240 grit sanding discs and they seemed to hold up very well. From what I've read, the actual sander is very comparable to Festool, it's the quality of the Festool sanding pads that are supposedly a little bit more durable. Still, the 1/4 the cost is why I went the Bosch route, I will never do this for a career, nor will I build custom wood furniture of re-finish wood floors for a living. I was extremely please with the results. I have a couple of posts in the TZ thread as well as the TOTAN thread showing the results.
Quoted from Rondogg:You really did the whole cabinet in 1:20?
That's how long it took to remove decals and sand the additional times. Both my TZ and TOTAN cabinets were in amazing condition, so no additional finishing work was required except on TOTAN the coin door had lock-down bar bolt holes that were filled with dowels and sanded.
My IJ cab is going to need some additional bondo work after decal removal.
Here are the after pictures. I did a ton of cleaning, refreshing and replacing playfield items that were yellowed or broken, as well as re-building coil assemblies and installed all Comet LEDs
Thanks for all the kind words! This was my 3rd machine that I've done this level of restoration on.
Quoted from Rondogg:Awesome. Where did you get those instruction cards?
The came with the game. This particular machine's history includes being owned by Clay (cfh) at one time. guy I bought it from bought it from him.
Quoted from Rondogg:Did you sand (regrain) the lockdown bar?
Not on this machine. I usually do, but this one looked like it was at the bottom of the ocean for the last 20 years, so I replaced it with a new one (pinball life)
Quoted from KornFreak28:Where did you get the factory stickers for your lock bar receiver?
Bought them in a sheet with other stickers from Marco. Looks like they are in stock at the moment:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/99-7
Quoted from Davi:What is the source of cabinet decal set?
Left over stock from Illinois Pinball. Bought them second-hand, but from what I understand, the Australian outfit that has screened decals offer the same ones. They are by far the best decals I've installed, hands-down. The Next-Gen ones I've used in the past are a close second
Quoted from KornFreak28:What's the name of the Australian vendor?
This guy I believe
ebay.com link: Indiana Jones Pinball Cabinet Decal Set Genuine from Mr Pinball
I will say it again- these decals are of unbelievable good quality, colors, texture and the ease of installation. If I had to guess, I wouldn't be surprised if Bryan Kelly and HEP use these on their restos
Quoted from Axl:Both legs are on the lower two holes...
Check to see if your LEFT SIDE Playfield rail is broken or cracked. Mine was broken in 2 places, causing the upper LH corner of the playfield to sag due to the weight of the POA mini PF, this not allowing for proper leveling back there. this definitely caused a very similar issue for me. I replaced my PF rails with painted black oak ones I made myself (similar to Reese Rails) and it corrected the problem 100%
Quoted from tonycip:That's interesting. I just took mine all apart to cc the playfield and it was doing the same thing.
I noticed the rail was cracked as well. It didn't dawn on me it might be related.
It DEFINITELY contributes to the problem. The playfield rearward of the slide brackets is suspended like a diving board. The black wood rails, along with the backboard, stiffen this so Warping and sagging doesnt happen
The stock rails are wrapped in a faux black wood-grain shelf-paper stuff, and under it the actual wood is finger-jointed in numerous places. The glue in these joints lets loose after so many years and the wood separates, being only held together by the black covering. Once the black covering splits, the PF sags. new full-length solid oak rails prevent this from ever happening again in the future. Reese rails makes plug-and-plays that are already trimmed, painted and pre-drilled. Or, of course you could make your own. Here's what a finger joint looks like in case you were wondering
Glad I was able to help! It's a pain to replace while the PF is still in the game, although it is possible. That's how I did mine, one at a time. some topside teardown is necessary, and getting the PF in the full-up position OFF the slides and onto the metal PF legs at the back is key, because the slide brackets have to be removed because there are screws under them that hold the wood rails on.
If you plan on buying them instead of making them, Here's the guy you want to do business with.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yes, thanks for the idea
Looking great Korn, keep it up! can't wait to see the end result!!!
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:I like how on the silkscreen decals the whip detail is seen through the thicker dark line rather than this line being solid as on many reproductions.
Like this? this is off my new decals-
Been having some weird anomalies with my path of adventure lately-
When the POA is activated, and the ball is sitting at the drop post, once the drop post drops, my pit (upper through-hole for ball) optos activate (or deactivate, in the case of optos), triggering the indy falling to his death. Then, after a while, the upper optos in the pit hole seems to stop working until I re-start the machine.
Could this be a flaky opto(s) in the pit hole?
Also, does the mini PF get power turned on once the drop post drops? similar to Twilight zone? the pit opto triggers IMMEDIATELY after the post drops.
Any help would be great.
Sometimes, it works for a while with no issues
EDIT: added info
Wiring under mini PF seems good, everything checks out fine in tests when game is booted up. AFTER the opto stops working during gameplay, if I go into tests the pit hole opto does NOT work, but everything else does.
Quoted from Averell:Check 10-Opto board beneath the playfield!
so... the problem might be in this 10-opto board, or maybe the column/row drivers on the CPU?
Maybe this is a bad opto on the Pit hole? Is that possible?
Quoted from Averell:Look into the Switch Matrix while Indy does selftesting and check Opto from fliptronic at the buttons.
I don't understand what you are saying to do here
Quoted from Averell:Could be bad or weak connection of 12 Volt power supply at 10-Opto board.
Take a closer look to the LED that indicates correct 12 Volt.
Open coindoor and start Indy, switch into switch-test to check the switch matrix... you will see if some opto's don't work properly.
Also take a look into the schematics, there are some opto's outside the switch matrix.
Often dirty opto's at the fliptronic for the flipper buttons cause problems like you have.
Excellent- Thanks for the advice! will look into it
EDIT:
Now that I think of it, it would do it sometimes when I hit the RH flipper button to tilt the mini-PF to the right. Maybe cleaning/replacing that one will do the trick!
Quoted from Its_me_aj:Had a few switch errors with the POA ramp
Do you mind sharing what the POA switch problems were?
Quoted from Averell:In my opinion the only durable method is black chrome, herewith you prevent damage due to abrasion or scratches.
I agree with this if the game was being used solely in a commercial environment.
Home use, painting and powder coating is just fine
Quoted from adamross:Noob question, what is this yellow plastic that's holding the rubber called?
Be aware there are a few different styles- here's a kit with all new posts for indy plus instructions on where they go:
Quoted from paynemic:Ok Indy pros, I’m going to Disneyland tomorrow. My family usually goes back to the hotel to nap and I get some quality time on the most famous Indy pin in existence. My dream is to get on the board with a high score. (I usually go more for depth of play than score when I’m at home). Any suggestions for good scoring tactics? Last time I was there it was woefully unlevel and weak flippers...
Didn't that game look like this? Is this a copy of the Disnyland game??
https://www.greatamericanpinball.com/product-page/indiana-jones-high-end-custom-williams
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:SDTM all the time from there.
I think this is factory. You need to bump the game right before it comes off the right ramps sidewall
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Third is there a list of the different star posts needed for the game. i saw this http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PK1382 but im looking for only one color.
the picture Marco shows is a generic picture that is shown for all star post kits. If you order the indy one, it will be all the correct colors, which I think is almost entirely yellow
Quoted from delt31:anyone install the lost plastic decal?
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/indiana-jones/indiana-jones.htm
Is it possible without removing the ramps, bridge etc?
I've installed it. It's possible to do without removing the POA Motor, but everything else back there has to come off. See picture. Remove the items circled in orange
EDIT: If it's the Treasure Cove decal, (that's the exact one I installed) you will have to trim away the areas around the wire-form and POA motor. Some measuring and exacto cutting is required before putting it on, so the less crap in the way the better!!
wow, that's sweet... Quick question- does anyone know where I can find a used idol lock molded plastic idol? they seem to be hard to find, unlike my TOTAN genie lamp, which is sold everywhere... Was this part re-produced? I want to have Hot Rod do a brass plated one, but don't want to cannibalize my game for it.... Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:Does anybody know where this connector goes into?
It looks like this z-connector near the fliptronics board
zconn2 (resized).JPGQuoted from KornFreak28:Is this supposed to be like that or flush with the bridge? I can still make adjustments. Thanks!
Korn, that pic does not make sense- either your hex post under the jackpot straight ramp (and the screw into it under the bridge flap) is too short, or the bridge ramp is too high on the backboard. Might want to double check the height of the hex support post under there....
If I had to guess- may be the post. there is play, however, in the 3 screws that hold the bridge crossover ramp to the backboard though. check that as well
I marked the post in the picture. Unfortunately, I do not know what the length should be..
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