(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11,709 posts
  • 670 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 minutes ago by Ricochet
  • Topic is favorited by 355 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_8754 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1007 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1006 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1144 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1143 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1145 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1146 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1012 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0381 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2699 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20240316_125513 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240316_125552 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240316_125754 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240316_125644 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240316_125843 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240316_125929 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Ricochet.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

584 posts in this topic match your search for posts by Ricochet. You are on page 1 of 3.
#3250 5 years ago

Greetings IJ fans!!!

I'm really new to pinside. I've been in and out of collecting pinball machines for many years and over time I've trimmed my collection to just one machine...and it is IJ! This is one I will never let go.

I am preparing this fall, to tear down the machine for a complete restoration. I acquired the machine many years back (2010)... slowly over time I've purchased all new parts, mods, etc for a complete restoration.

I'm very excited to be here and excited to start this project.

- "See ya tomorrow Indiana Jones"

#3252 5 years ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

Congratulations on the restoration. I'm going to do the same to mine. I plan to video the entire restoration.

Excellent! Always good to see how people do these things. My next step is to get organized and formulate a plan. I've a rough idea of how, I just need to prescribe it and follow my own directions

#3254 5 years ago

Anyone ever thought of creating a mod that makes the planes move? I've kicked around a concept where a tiny gearboxed motor is basically driving a rod on a cam that would make the planes pivot along their center point. This could be activated when the ball goes through the ramps. I've almost got it to work but needed some metal work in order to properly re-mount the planes and hide the motors. I dropped it in the proof of concept stage...but I think it could be done and may be a cool mod. I've always liked the propeller mod but having the planes actually move would be kind of a neat effect.

Didn't know if anyone has thought of or tried this before... or if its a dumb idea.

#3300 5 years ago

Where is everyone getting these awesome plane models and parts for kit-bashing these cool plane mods ???
Thanks!!!!

#3352 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Currently working on several possible solutions for the light board issue

I've been communicating with KornFreak28 on one possible solution to this. I've the material to make an LED harness, one that is PCB-less. There is really nothing to the circuit (couple of diodes, resistors and LEDs). It can hopefully be built using shrink tubing and it may even be able to be put inside the plane... but we need to prototype it first... dunno how it will all work/fit. In the next couple of days I will put together a prototype and if it looks like it will work, I will donate the completed harnesses to be installed in the model(s) for whomever wants them. Please give me a couple of days... I WILL do this, I think KornFreak28's models are awesome and would like to see them completed.

#3358 5 years ago
Quoted from shepP:

Now how about incorporating this mod as well? Sounds like a very cool idea.

Oh I'd love to but I don't want to get in the way of this, I'm just not ready yet. I've still got some mechanical details to work out and have to get some parts made.

#3360 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

I think we only need to place LED's and wires inside the plane. Other elements (like diodes, resistors, universal PCB) can be placed under the playfield. Plenty of space there, easy access.

Totally with you on that! There are only 3 additional components. The PCB originally was designed to have both LEDs independently controlled... but is disabled by a jumper as they are both controlled together. This eliminates two parts (a diode and a 0 ohm resistor). So we are talking two resistors and a diode. I'm going to embed them in the cable assembly so they don't really need to be in the plane. They are just so minuscule I can't see them being a problem no matter where they are put.

We can also play with different types of LEDs instead of those bland standard reds.

#3374 5 years ago

LED wiring harnesses for the fighter planes are coming guys... I couldn't find my supply of .093 pins/sockets and I wanted to get two different LED types... 5mm and 3mm(super bright). I will hook it up to my machine so you can see what they output for light.

Hang tight.

(...oh and my machine finally decided to take a dump... I need to rebuild the 5V power supply)

#3380 5 years ago

Scorpion LED harness for plane... it can be bent/twisted/glued ... whatever. Also can cut back on the heat shrink a bit for it to be a bit more flexible. I’ve the 3mm super bright LEDs... they put the original 5mm LEDs to shame! I’ve a vid to show how they look

2D4146EC-1BA0-46F3-AE92-313B411B8A1C (resized).jpeg2D4146EC-1BA0-46F3-AE92-313B411B8A1C (resized).jpeg

#3384 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

If they can be glued somehow, I Believe we have a great alternative for those not wanting to drill out their light boards. Fremen drilled his out and will be sending it in. New resistors are coming in as well

I've an idea to make this work. I've got some black 1/4" ABS stock... I will integrate some custom made led holders out of this material as part of the harness. ABS will glue nicely with either locktite or other plastic glue. It think this will work well.

Rev 2 of the LED harness coming ... I've got a busy week so this weekend.

#3386 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nice job! About the shrink wrap: I really think that if you can replicate the shape of the original harness using shrink wrap this might actually work. What are you doing differently to Rev 2? On my side, I already gutted the second fighter plane and it's ready for paint and clear. Just waiting on new resistors to put them to the test.

Rev 2 will have less heat shrink tubing (more flexibility) and I also want to incorporate the ABS LED mount/holders for rev 2. For whatever reason, thought I had the .062 connectors... I had .093!!! so I had to pick up a bunch ... those will be here today or tomorrow.

I would also like to build 2 of the Rev 2... one with 3mm and another with 5mm LEDs. Both are superbright with wide-angle flat top LEDs... I think for external mounting... the 5mm would be brightest ... but for integrating it within the plane... the 3mm is a better fit and plenty bright... but I'll leave that up to you and others to decide. These can be made to order... once you figure out what you want to do.

#3388 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That's awesome! Yeah, do that so we can see which version fits best. What gauge wire are you using?

I'm using 26AWG (need to double check) but that's generally what I have on hand.

#3414 5 years ago

New LED harness... bigger and brighter !!! Also has mounting sockets !!! I’m pretty satisfied with it! The larger LEDs are WAY better.

I’ll be mailing this and the previous one to KornFreak28 this week for him to experiment with.

025FED47-09DD-40F6-B62D-E87D6E79A3B1 (resized).jpeg025FED47-09DD-40F6-B62D-E87D6E79A3B1 (resized).jpeg2C59BFC9-466D-4D1A-9E9D-7B5513DB5834 (resized).jpeg2C59BFC9-466D-4D1A-9E9D-7B5513DB5834 (resized).jpeg35D42C35-0043-4CC6-85B5-030AE69CD075 (resized).jpeg35D42C35-0043-4CC6-85B5-030AE69CD075 (resized).jpeg6E9E55FB-EC79-49F2-BA8F-76185B207AB9 (resized).jpeg6E9E55FB-EC79-49F2-BA8F-76185B207AB9 (resized).jpeg
#3416 5 years ago

Yeah they are made of ABS... they will glue nicely

#3431 5 years ago

Harness has been sent your way!

#3446 5 years ago

Cool... yeah my thought was just to glue the flat spot to the underside of the wing... run the wires wherever you want. You can also just pop those sockets off and ditch them altogether and have the LEDs sticking out the edge of the wing (if you are putting the wires in the plane). They are friction fit.

When this is finalized, PM me if you want me to make one for you. I will be doing them all at once, for one shipment to KornFreak28. At the moment I have enough to make 7. Not sure how many folks are committed to this... but I can always get more.

#3449 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yeah glueing them would be more practical that’s for sure. Great job on the harness Ricochet! We still have to iron out some minor details I need for you to address for the final harness version. I’ll be in touch later tonight or tomorrow as I’m on my way to the gym

10:4

#3456 5 years ago

For the LED harness, I've got the final tweaks/recommendations from KornFreak28 and I will begin making them once I have the total number requested.

So...

For those who wish to have the LED harness made and incorporated into their fighter plane please pm me. I've already one request.

I will collect requests from you and build them in one lot. I can't be doing them one at a time and mailing them individually, it just doesn't make a heck of a lot of sense to do it that way. They will be direct shipped to KornFreak28.

I've not decided on $$$ yet. ... honestley its about 2 bucks in parts... it's more about my time and shipping. In my brain... I'm thinking around 15-20 bucks... Let me know if that sounds ridiculous.

Thanks
-Jim

1 month later
#3663 5 years ago

Tore down my Indy for playfield restoration.

3 days... lots of pics, labels and bins/bags.

Honestly ... I feel like I want to throw up. I’m super excited to finally get this project going... but holy shit!!!! People that do this all the time have a strong stomach. It’s like a long drive... it’s a good thing it’s gonna take a while on the playfield ... I’m not ready to hook it back up for a bit.

In the mean time I can start working on the cabinet.

I’m keeping this game forever so this has to be done for posterity.

FF9AA630-1057-45A9-BE0A-78F04AAB8D0C (resized).jpegFF9AA630-1057-45A9-BE0A-78F04AAB8D0C (resized).jpeg
#3667 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Good luck! I did the same thing to mine. Any Q’s let me know

Thanks!!! I’m amazed at how much work it really does need... once you get all the crap off of it.

#3668 5 years ago
Quoted from rx3:

My playfield too needs to be restored. I'm scared to death of sending it out, though. I had an AFM playfield come back literally broken in half by the post office. Luckily, AFM playfields were available. Finding an IJ playfield, would be a nightmare. Next to impossible. Not sure they are ever going to get made, either. Licensing appears to be a nightmare. That would really suck having an IJ with no playfield.

Not gonna lie... I’m scared shitless to ship it.

#3670 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mirco will probably make playfields coming up.

Yeah he’s ready to go... licensing is a problem. If he ever can secure the license... I’d probably buy one anyway.

#3672 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Use pvc pipe insulation for the edges

Yeah I read Vids guide... he said that too!

1 month later
#3801 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Endprodukt's mix.

^^^^^ YES!

#3804 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Endprodukt mix is amazing. Even has new voice callouts done by a very competent voice person. I’d pay a significant price for it if i had to.

Heck yeah! I was skeptical about it ... quite simply because I was so familliar with the factory mix and really worried that I would be put off by the voice actor... I was shocked at how great it was and how much it cranked up the entertainment factor for the game.

My only issue I have is that off and on Pinsound+ will fail to detect the USB stick. I’ve not debugged it (other than checking my power supplies which are rock-solid) and I’ve read here and there that people live with this behavior... it’s something that needs to be fixed cause it’s unacceptable to me.

#3808 5 years ago
Quoted from dsmith:

So I thought I would show off my IJ. Got it over a year ago and it was a disaster (See before pics). I won't go into too many details but I stripped the playfield, Cleaned, Replaced a bunch of posts, plastics, rubbers etc etc. Needed a translight, translight glass, playfield glass, Legs. A lot is new. I can barely remember now. Cabinet was a disaster. I had a new cabinet made by virtualpin (Highly recommended). Coin door and gun were power coated black. Metal habitrail ramps power coated blue. Cleaned up and fixed whatever was needed to make it look good and play 100%. I'm no expert and this was not like some others do with every coil replaced and nut and bolt replaced but I love it and quite happy with it. Feel free to comment good or bad (I have a thick skin).

That's a ton of work dude, GREAT WORK! Congrats on the preservation of such a great machine!
- "That belongs in a museum!"

2 months later
#3893 5 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hello, I just noticed my plane leds are not working? Any idea how to test these and what the problem may be?? Thanks all.

Go into test mode and activate the test for it... the test mode will put them in a flashing state. If they don't flash on and off in test mode then you need to do a little more digging.

You can see if your LEDs on the plane are working by disconnecting the harness under the playfield (with the power off) and connecting a 9V battery across the terminals (of the plane side of the harness... not the WPC driver board side). You will need to rig some wires into the plug. If your LEDs don't illuminate then it is at the very least, a problem with the components on the PCB of the fighter plane. If they do illuminate then its a problem with the connection to the driver board or a problem on the driver board itself.

Hope this helps.

1 week later
#3927 5 years ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

Send PM if you are interested.
Color your choice
[quoted image]

Man those look good... I’ve always thought they would look great in green.

#3930 5 years ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

Thanks
I will do green

Excellent!!! Colorized to a similar hue as the greenery of the plastics?? I would be interested in a set!!!!

#3933 5 years ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

[quoted image]

I want that! Sending you a PM!!! I think the green will be a nice blend with the entire pin.

I’m more of a fan of the stock look in general... this is just a nice tweak.

1 week later
#3942 5 years ago

Received my custom air-ball guard plastic from Davi today.

VERY VERY NICE!!! Professional quality product! (also included was captive ball guard not shown)

Can’t wait to put this into play ... one day when I get my machine back together!

Thanks Davi!!!

E7921329-8F23-4529-AB54-E1D4A2B3A674 (resized).jpegE7921329-8F23-4529-AB54-E1D4A2B3A674 (resized).jpeg

#3987 5 years ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

Sorry for delay. Some test colors
[quoted image]

These are fantastic! I've taken your pic and added some numbers so I could comment (I hope you don't mind).

Changing this color has a very significant impact on the overall look of the game. The original red is a nice tie in with all the red in the playfield... it also makes the POA pop. That being said, I think green would look really great and balance well with the existing artwork. Your original green sample (previous post) matched really well with the darker green in the plastics artwork... not sure if that's shown here (it may be #4 but with pics/lighting are sometimes see the true color)... but I think that's the best green IMHO. All the earth tones (2,5,6 and 7) would look great as well. It looks like for 9 you went with a color that is closest to the original ruins. I also like that because it adds balance to the game.

What about a tan color that is close to the plastics that sit below the POA??? It's a light shade of tan... that may also provide a nice tie in to it.

Anyway I'm getting one... I like sticking with the original style for this machine. The realism effects look nice but I think because the overall look of the game is "toony" when you go to realistic, it doesn't look right... that's just my opinion.

Again these are all fantastic, you've chosen all the right colors and tones, not a stinker among them. Its purely a matter of personal taste as to what works.
colors (resized).jpgcolors (resized).jpg

#3989 5 years ago
Quoted from 2Fun:

Not sure if anyone has had this problem. I have a pinsound installed...
I started to get a "soundboard interface error" intermittently. Usually during multiball the machine would shut down and then power up again (giving me the error). It happens sporadically. I can play it for an hour, go through many multiballs just fine. Then, the next day do the same and get the error. It is very frustrating as it is not consistent and does not happen very often. I put all new ribbon cables in - did not help. Any suggestions would be great. I am running L-5 version fyi... thanks.

Do you have the latest firmware version for your Pinsound installed?

#3999 5 years ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

Thanks. I agree about the red one. As a said before this is some test colors I did.
The red should be darker.
The brown 9 is probably the one I will choose but will test more when my game is more done. I will do more colors and get back to you all.

Oh I wasn’t criticizing your red color... I was making the statement about the original choice of red by the game designers. All your colors are great!

#4013 5 years ago

Working on getting my cabinet re-fabricated. I may have an opportunity to setup the job on a CNC... I've done a rough document of the dimensions of the machine.. not quite finished yet.

I'm working off a sample of one... so these are still in draft form but free to anyone who wishes to look at them and use/verify/critique. Just putting them out there. Before I put them into CAD (when I have the time), I'm just rough drafting them for now. Guarantee there are errors in this, like I said the numbers will get verified once I get them into the model.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aRr8DnU4rIXNyRnF10Dy8mS4fx81azbU

#4019 5 years ago

I’m tearing down my IJ... anyone notice the shelf that the transformer is mounted to is just a back box side panel???? I’m not thinking this is just mine ... I’m guessing this was pretty common.

Also I’m looking for cabinet decals... I’ve see them for sale everywhere... but I’ve not seen ones with the particular name that is on mine ...
01AC36DE-5A42-495D-BA8C-5AF9433ED10A (resized).jpeg01AC36DE-5A42-495D-BA8C-5AF9433ED10A (resized).jpeg20D6EA28-FD1C-445D-B56F-11F245458CB6 (resized).jpeg20D6EA28-FD1C-445D-B56F-11F245458CB6 (resized).jpeg

1 month later
#4148 5 years ago

Has anyone tried this replacement ball deflector?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8806

This one is curved compared to the original. I've only seen the straight (original design) replacements available up until this point. This may be irrelevant, but it's something that I just noticed, and I look at this crap a lot!

#4150 5 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Interested to know if that works any better. I just removed mine on the weekend and put some foam at the back. I was getting so sick of the rejects.
[quoted image]

Yup there are many ways people have devised to deal with this issue...
- Removal of the deflector + Drop dead foam
- Elongated mounting holes on the deflector to adjust it back from its original position (mantisamusements.com sells these)
- Clever shock absorbing spring loaded bracket

I bought one of these Marco curved deflectors however my machine is in pieces and won't be able to test it for a while. I'm not expecting much... just intrigued.

#4155 5 years ago

Powder coated awesomeness by Robert Stone!

I'm dazzled!!! This is the PERFECT finish for this machine. I can't recommend Robert enough, brother does fantastic work and has an eye for color! Photography simply doesn't capture how fantastic this looks.

There is only one sucky thing... My cabinet isn't ready to receive these spectacular trim pieces.

The color is "Nocturnal Gold". I just bought a set of U channel H channel and lift trim to be finished as well... might as well do it ALL!

59CD8BF2-46C7-4BDD-B007-EE1513D2C99D (resized).jpeg59CD8BF2-46C7-4BDD-B007-EE1513D2C99D (resized).jpeg86C84768-357E-4B7B-90D8-9A7A687BAB22 (resized).jpeg86C84768-357E-4B7B-90D8-9A7A687BAB22 (resized).jpeg

#4158 5 years ago

Does anybody know what the heck these T-Nuts are for in the cash-box area?

indy bottom (resized).jpgindy bottom (resized).jpg
#4162 5 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Anyone else think it’s strange that custom armor was never produced for this game? Laser cut out of Indy’s whip with colorized backing would be pretty sweet!

Agreed! Also, there have been many attempts at toppers for this machine ... none of them are slam dunk awesome. It’s tough because there is so much to draw from.

#4170 5 years ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

I’d like to know too. Kind of odd

The only thing I can think of is that it’s for bolting down a cash box for tighter security maybe ????? They have a really odd layout. Someone’s got to know.

The two closest to the coin door look like they are symmetrical.

#4186 5 years ago

Has anyone on here tried this particular mod...
ebay.com link: Indiana Jones Pinball Inner Cab Backboard Decal Set Mod

Personally I think its perfectly matched to the machine. I favor enhancements that are more of a style that fits with the overall cartoon-ish look of the playfield and this one is very good in that regard. I'm Interested ... but not sure if I want that much sticker on my machine.

#4193 5 years ago

I'm in the LED camp, I like the updated "original" look... but its really tough to say one is "better" than the other. Either way... it's a super upgrade.

#4194 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Ive seen these stickers for awhile now. I hate on that ebay listing that they only have one picture. Would love to see more detailed pics of these installed.

I'm half tempted to just get a set and review them... but I've been dumping money into this machine like a fool... and a 100 bucks is just a bit too much to blow on a maybe.

#4197 5 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Just wanted to post some pics of the great work pinsider Medisinyl did for my IJ. He created the custom crafted/painted POA rails and also painted my ruins to match exactly. Really top quality craftsmanship. Check out his thread detailing his fantastic work.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fantastic!

Hands down the best realistic mod I've seen on IJ. Its just subtle enough not to contrast heavily with the toony styling of the game. This is one I kind of wished I got in on.

1 week later
#4231 5 years ago

I will never ever let IJ go. It will be either my coffin or something my kids have to deal with when I’m dead.

I know there are a ton of great themed pins... and much of the newer stuff has better tech... but IJ is perfection in my book in terms of the thematic elements that have been incorporated.

#4235 5 years ago

I like the superball... and have it enabled.

#4242 5 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

To confirm, the stock legs are chrome right? I see that in the original flyer. Mine has black and want to get whatever is stock

Standard equipment is a matte brass finish, not chrome or polished brass.

#4268 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Is the original rubber set on this machine white or black? It appears to be white but black seems to pop better on this pin. Also what is the original flipper color? Mine had yellow with red rubber and actually looked pretty good
Curious on good colors people are using

When I put mine back together I'm sticking with black. I've gone up, down and around on this decision... I can't seem to find a color that I like, black just works with all of the outlining of the artwork. I generally don't prefer to create a mix bag of ring colors for different parts of the playfield either.

#4271 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

That’s what I thought. I looked at the stock white and something doesn’t look right about it. Yeah definitely post some pics of the black when you get a chance. I ordered both kits regardless but pretty sure I’m going with the black

The only color I added was with the posts... I may end up reverting that to black too. For all posts that are normally black, I'm going with green with the exception of red on each side of the center target that sits behind the drop targets. I made the kit on Titan's pinball kits database.

#4272 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Looking for the apron decals. Anybody know a place with them in stock?
Seems like everyone is out of stock

https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/IJ_Page.html

#4275 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Post some pics when you get er dun

Gonna' be a while... still waiting for playfield to be done. I've been out of commission for a while. I'm hoping to get it done before the end of the year at this poing.

#4278 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

What’s wrong with your PF?

Nothing really ... getting all the chips around the inserts fixed and clear coated.

#4280 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Hopefully joining the club this weekend. Has color DMD and pinsound. Ill prob get some of the lori mods ruins for each side. Are there 2-3 popular upgrades for Indy without going overboard. Can you add a shaker? I have seen some people add a more realistic planes or the prop mod.
thx.

There was a shaker kit made by pinbits for this game. It attaches to the ruins flasher. I got one years ago and I would say its just "ok" since the game was never designed for one, not sure its worth hunting for one.

You've got two of the most important mods for the game... color DMD and pinsound. I've got a set of KornFreak's planes (I'm tangentially involved in that project... so I'm a bit prejudiced here) and they look great, and with the spinning props... just awesome! I'm not much into all the other stuff because it significantly changes the look of the game and I generally don't care for that... and that's just my personal preference.

Enjoy! It's definitely my favorite machine of all time... largely because of the theme, and I believe it to be one of the best theme integrations ever.

2 weeks later
#4319 4 years ago

Certainly looks like a re-import... 230V and that German "Caution" label is kind of a tell.

#4321 4 years ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

Yes it is a tell, and that's why I posted the picture. However the strange part is the Automaticos Stamp. Which is Spanish. Trying to find out where this baby has been.

Thats interesting... I totally missed that... got hung up on the Vorsicht

3 weeks later
#4411 4 years ago

I love this look... it’s actually quite subtle and not overbearing IMHO. I got steel lift channel from mantisamusements and had it powder coated and it fits nicely!

#4415 4 years ago

Soulrider911 my machine is in pieces but here is the lift channel on the glass...

The lift channel is cut to fit ... I had mine cut to 26 7/8” ... it’s a perfect fit. I’m thinking I will line it with felt or something because I have a shaker in my machine and I don’t want it rattling.

4FEDEBED-00BA-4B79-ADAB-C6256ECBB1E3 (resized).jpeg4FEDEBED-00BA-4B79-ADAB-C6256ECBB1E3 (resized).jpeg8CBA35D8-398E-4B2D-B0B7-10923EB5BEE9 (resized).jpeg8CBA35D8-398E-4B2D-B0B7-10923EB5BEE9 (resized).jpegF1723942-2C48-4C59-B42A-33F2D9FDA98A (resized).jpegF1723942-2C48-4C59-B42A-33F2D9FDA98A (resized).jpeg

#4427 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I tried looking for the correct lamp socket and couldn’t find it anywhere! Still planning to add it at some point

When all else fails... good ol' Steve Young's site...

http://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html
http://www.pbresource.com/sockit/wll-a11905.jpg

This is the only place I could find an EXACT match to what I have on my machine!

1 month later
#4624 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Gonna make an attempt to screen these grills[quoted image]

Very interested

#4630 4 years ago

Check your mounting and linkage on the post stop. I thought that my post wasn’t dropping ... it was in fact never going back up (at least not all the time). I was fooled into thinking it was actually stopping the ball because it was intermittent.

#4637 4 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

I'm considering buying Indiana Jones Light The Jackpot MOD but would love thoughts from anyone who has installed it. Worth it? Does it interact with any particular mode?

Looks cool in attract mode. You don't pay all that much attention to it during game play. My reason was just for completeness to the original concept... Indy is so feature rich it just seemed like it belonged to be there.

#4643 4 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I recently brought home a IJ.
It played fine for a while. Occasionally it would throw a switch error that would go away on it's own. Last night I'm playing and do a small slap save...left flipper dies a few times and game resets. Then the sound goes out. Sound comes back on then the DMD goes out and stays out. A couple balls are locked in the idol which aren't freed by ball search. It then just starts shooting out balls repeatedly and flippers don't work. It became possessed.
Any ideas? When I brought it home, the lights and dmd were out, but I found that a plug had just come out during transport. Easy fix. I'm not sure what is causing all these issues.

Your ribbon cables could have intermittent issues (try re-seating all of them) ... this is a common problem with the age of these things.
You're 5V could be getting flaky (this can cause erroneous resets during game play)

#4652 4 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Reseated every ribbon cable and plug.
Dumb question...how do I check the 5v on this game?

You need a multimeter and it can be probed on the CPU board or power driver board. Get your schematics out

#4662 4 years ago

... just got my IJ playfield restoration approval pics from CaptainNeo

HOLY $H1T!!!! It looks AWESOME!!!! So pleased and so very excited to get this re-build going! Going to be perfect timing... a great fall/winter project!

#4664 4 years ago
Quoted from Jazzbouche:

Awesome - Please post your progress! I have a Kruzman play field which I'm trying to find time to swap over. I kind of want to hit it in one go rather than small evenings here and there. Time is always the issue!

Cool! Yeah he had one available last year ... I almost pulled the trigger but the timing just didn’t work for me. I’m also working on an RFM restore. These two projects were supposed to be separated in time... but it’s looking like they will be overlapping!!! So they will be pecked at in increments.

#4666 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Good luck guys. I’ve only thought about swapping out a restored playfield and especially with this game it’s gonna take a bit of time. But will be worth it in the end when that ball rolls flawlessly over the inserts without hopping

Thanks ... yeah my machine has been in boxes and bins for almost 10 months now.... yeah there's a little stress there

#4668 4 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My POA post isn't dropping when the ball is up there. What should i look for?

1. Check for mechanical linkage... my solenoid assembly had loosened over time and the post wasn't working the way it should.
2. Check coil, go into test mode and see if the coil is activating.
3. Dig in and check from the coil back to the driver board (diode, connections, transistor).

1 week later
#4678 4 years ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I got some brand spankin new decals to place on side of IJ machine, but it looks like there are tons of obstructions in the way, including at least 8 nail ends on the top side of the machine. What's the best way to place a new decal on an older machine as such? Any video tutorials out there? Thanks in advance!

Strip it, repair and seal/paint... it’s a big job to do it right. Nothing prevents you from just sticking it on top of the old artwork... but that’s not the best way to do it... and they likely won’t adhere well. You’re gonna need to remove all the cabinet bolts ... no way around that step.

#4680 4 years ago

.

1 week later
#4711 4 years ago
Quoted from whitey:

IJ club ? I have an Indy and thinking of doing pinsound and a Shaker but was told original software supports this ?
And I’d so where do I purchase this I’ve never seen it ? Was ready to try pinsound shaker etc
Any suggestions I would love to hear them
Thanks !!!

Pinsound for Indy is one of the single best upgrades you can do IMHO... but you will need the Endprodukt mix to really get the most from it, search the pinsound thread and forums for this info. Their shaker isn't yet available. I've pre-ordered one myself... can't wait for it!

#4722 4 years ago

Playfield is on its way from captainneo ! Gonna have plenty to do real soon (actually more like a busy winter... gonna wait for the clear to harden nicely !!!)

10
#4739 4 years ago

Playfield back from CaptainNeo ... and it’s SPECTACULAR !!!!
512EA206-8711-46BE-9372-3FA35E77CD70 (resized).jpeg512EA206-8711-46BE-9372-3FA35E77CD70 (resized).jpeg

#4742 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Nice! Did you do level 1,2, or 3?

3 !!!! It’s beautiful . Sent it out last October... totally worth the wait!

#4744 4 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

Wow. How’d the shooter lane come out?

1C8BCD2B-B5D9-46C8-B32B-D8AEADD9C65D (resized).jpeg1C8BCD2B-B5D9-46C8-B32B-D8AEADD9C65D (resized).jpeg
#4761 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

They are both Endprodukt - but I think I figured out the Reorchestrated is the best one. I have to say though, there is some stuff about it I really don’t like. I’m gonna dump the file and fix that

There are a couple of things that are a bit wonky... but its easy to just remove them as they are usually just redundant sounds...(meaning there are other clips to pick from). I left them in ... haven't gotten around to remove them. There are just so many clips that it seems that the ones that are are a little off don't hit all that often.

1 month later
#4856 4 years ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

Please give me your opinions, I have the opportunity to powdercoat my indy in 3 colors, gold, silver or black, which one should I choose? Thanks[quoted image]

I was originally going to go with brass. I still like the polished brass finish but I saw a few in black and I really like how it contrasts with the artwork. I'm in the middle of restoring mine right now. The color I have is actually "gold"... its almost black. It has gold flake but you cant see it very well in the pictures.
powdercoat1 (resized).jpgpowdercoat1 (resized).jpgpowdercoat3 (resized).jpgpowdercoat3 (resized).jpgpowdercoat2 (resized).jpgpowdercoat2 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#4903 4 years ago
Quoted from -ZZZ-:

I was wondering of any of the Indy owners who have inner art blades installed (Tilt's GameBlades, PinGrafx PinBlades, etc.) could post some pictures of their games)?
I am about to reassemble my IJ, and it might be a time saver to get this done before the playfield is in the cabinet... just not sure about the overall look of the game with the various art packages.
Thanks for any help!

I’m in the thick of this decision myself. My biggest constraint is that whatever I choose it has to match the artwork of the game. I won’t like anything that is realistic or too far off from the artwork on the playfield and playfield plastics.

I’ve found none that are a slam dunk for me.

#4915 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

This version is based on playfield plastics, looks like an extended playfield:[quoted image][quoted image]

Those are the ones that I have.

#4918 4 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Where are those from?

I got mine from Treasurecove pinball years ago. I think they still have them

#4919 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Ok, I’m calling it. Williams IJ greatest pinball machine ever made
I’m about to callout & compare the others faking to compete

If Indiana Jones is your thing... then nothing beats this machine in terms of theme integration. I know people say never say never but I am never parting with my IJ.

1 week later
#4935 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What’s so good about them though? I’ve never seen one in person.

They are really classy. Some people feel like it doesn’t really fit the era of the game tho. I think it looks unbelievably great... the mirrored accents are awesome! I’m not sure they are 3 bills great but I dropped the coin on one in a WTF moment of weakness. I don’t regret it.

1 week later
#4953 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Just joined the club! Made a good trade for an Indy. Needs cleaned and shopped and a new set of side art, but playfield is nice, everything is there and everything works![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#4967 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

This is exactly why I’ve been hesitant to pull the trigger on it. Not sure how well the mirror look fits the Indy theme.

You know how picky I am about mods... I don't care for stuff that pulls away from the original design/art of the machine. I'm still not sure its worth the $$$ however the mirrored effect is so subtle ... it almost doesn't show. Its weird and difficult to explain. You'd have to see it in person, even photos don't capture how it really looks. I honestly feel like it fits very well. I like the artwork printed on the glass... that alone creates a different look.

366FDCB3-22AB-4EF3-B343-B449E4A80755 (resized).jpeg366FDCB3-22AB-4EF3-B343-B449E4A80755 (resized).jpeg
#4979 4 years ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Set up and playing great![quoted image]

Excellent! I can't wait to get back to this point!

2 weeks later
#5032 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Any suggestions for powdercoating or trim? A friend reccomended brass for legs and trim with black nickel gun. Any photos for ideas would be great thank you

Check out my restoration ... I originally was gonna go brass. I like brass... but I went with a metallized gold flake in black.

#5036 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Ooh that DOES look sweet. What did you do for the gun? My only concern is im doing my LOTR trim to match hobbit LE smaug and dont want to much of the same

The gun is black ... with dark brown accent on the grip

#5063 4 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Has anyone installed the “improved” ball trough assembly from Marco? It has stainless steel rails and a mechanism that prevents balls from leaving when playfield is up?

I thought about it... but bang for the buck is really low on this one... primarily because I've never had a single issue with my trough.

#5074 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Here are some thoughts and discoveries with the Enprodukt Remastered Pinsound ZIP
1. If you change/unzip/Re-zip the file, it runs into a character length issues which will eliminate sound files. If you did this it might be why some files are missing. Try unzipping/zipping in a single root folder only 1 folder deep
2. The gunshot on the final/completion of Cairo mode the gun shot does not sound - not sure why. Either gun shot is corrupt or getting over played with the prior sound bite from Marion
3. The folder/sfx names are different than the original. Not sure why this. I also noticed .ogg files vs wav. Seems strange since ogg only has 256kbps vs wav.
4. There’s a very simular zip file on Pinside called “Reorchestrated”. Not sure why this was posted but it’s recompiled with German labeled sounds files that don’t rezip easily without renaming them. I’d just avoid it
Anybody notice any other issues?

This is accurate

#5102 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Thinking about buying some anti glare glass, anyone using it?

I got some PDI for my Indy. I have it on my Star Wars as well ... Honestly I think it’s the most impactful “mod” of any kind. Highly recommended!!!

#5120 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Anyone able to tell me how many of the large 906 flashers behind backglass should be flashing during gameplay?

They follow the flashers for: Right Ramp, Left Ramp, Eternal Life, Jackpot, POA, Left Side and Right Side playfield flashers. There are 12 of them but only 7 drive lines... so most drive more than one led.

I know thats not an exact answer... but you can look at the wiring on the back to see what ones are connected together.

#5146 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Still can’t get the gunshot to work at the end of Cairo. Even Endprodukt is looking into it. Seems like Pinsound 1 it works fine, but not Pinsound+
Gun Blast or bust!

I’ve a PinSound+ and have never heard the gun blast.

#5159 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

If anybody is interested in getting a replacement and/or spare fighter plane bracket Cliff has them available for only $18 bucks! Extremely well made! [quoted image]

#5164 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

All thanks to my good friend Ricochet!

As long as my machine is rubble ... I’m happy to help

#5178 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Ok, just tested - its working. Its a little muffled like people reported but you can turn up the gunfire volume in the PinSound Studio App.
Haven't tested the jackpot/extra balls yet but so far so good.

Man this is great! Thanks for driving this!!!!

1 week later
#5190 4 years ago

I'm getting into re-assembly of my play field. I've got the Pinbits lost plastic light board that you install behind the back board of the play field. Installation requires a slot to be cut out of the back board for the light to pass through the lost plastic behind the rope bridge plastic.

I'm really wondering if i should do this. I'm like 50/50 on it. Now is the time to make the decision. I've not been able to find any pictures of this mod and how well it lights up the plastic. On the surface it doesn't look like its worth it... but I'd like to see one installed and lit to confirm or deny that.

#5192 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

That's just a small lighted area, I think it does not worth it.
Have you ever considered a transparent plexiglass backboard? You can apply a full backlit to your lost plastic.

Yes in fact I have. I considered making one myself, the cost of the acrylic is pretty high for making one. I would consider purchasing a pre-made one.

#5201 4 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I’ve been trying to come up with a way to light this area just a little bit myself. Have the lost plastic and it is really not that visible while playing. Don’t want major tear down though to install. Perhaps a led light strip from above along topside of cabinet/glass channel area?

I’m going to try clear bumper bodies to illuminate the general area. I’m also going to try to cut an acrylic back board.

#5204 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

For what it’s worth, the LED strip is FAR less work and is definitely more effective to light the lost plastic area. Save yourself a lot of headaches pulling out pops

I’m in the middle of my restoration... my playfield is stripped... otherwise ... I wouldn’t bother

#5215 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

It's a 3/4" sheet. If everything goes well, you will see soon this mod in this thread.

Hey now... don’t tempt me

1 week later
#5305 4 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I’m looking for suggestions about what to do for divots in the ball trough. Marco wants a bunch for a new trough, but they had an insert as a solution for magnetized balls, so I bought it. Problem is, the ball return from the play field is pretty tight - I measured it at 1 1/8”. The insert is 1/8”, which causes the ball to get stuck. So, what should I do? I have a few ideas, but would like to hear from others who have faced this problem. Thanks

I recently purchased the upgraded ball trough for my Indy, and yeah... that insert doesn't work for Indy. The new trough has some tolerance issues on my machine... the two holes closest to the eject hole do not align with the trough mounting holes. Its fixable by elongating the holes outward. I almost returned it because it was pricey and I wanted it to fit without me having to go at my playfield with a drill bit. I've decided to keep it for now... the rails inside the trough are very nice though... they are gentile on the balls

2 weeks later
#5356 4 years ago

Quick question for you Indy restoration folks...

Does the metal guide go behind the exit ramp from the idol as I have it shown here. I think it does ... but it has a little bend to it that makes it look kind a funky. I can tweak the guide so if it’s on the outside it is flat against the ramp structure.

BED09B3C-31B5-42EE-BED7-5DA0D784EACD (resized).jpegBED09B3C-31B5-42EE-BED7-5DA0D784EACD (resized).jpeg757A4F81-7E16-4815-858A-08EA8E6A6FA7 (resized).jpeg757A4F81-7E16-4815-858A-08EA8E6A6FA7 (resized).jpeg
#5359 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Definitely inside meaning the ramp to the left of the flap. Mine actually has a space about 1/8 so it’s not even snug against it
The most important thing, roll a ball down it and make sure it goes smoothly through the gate

sooooo... my top picture or my bottom picture? sorry for me being confused

#5362 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Bottom. Ramp should be to the left. But as mentioned, more important to test the ball roll through the gate

Affirmative! Thanks for the help!

#5381 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Well, this is a quick and dirty print on my little inkjet, and of course I had to tape 3 pieces of paper together to span the whole apron, but daaaaamn if that don't look slick. It's full vector, so that detail goes all the way down.
I get this thing printed professionally, maybe do that magnet thing, and baby you got a stew goin'.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Excellent... you are gonna make a name for yourself here!!!

1 week later
#5430 4 years ago

What rubber configuration goes here??? I’ve seen various machines have what looks like two separate 7/16” rings or one single ring. Factory documents don’t call it out.

0A547831-5D95-4005-8935-0D2069FFD0F8 (resized).jpeg0A547831-5D95-4005-8935-0D2069FFD0F8 (resized).jpeg
#5433 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

My game has a single ring here.
Even though the manual doesn't specifically call it out, the diagram seems to show two 7/16 rings here. And it also calls for two rings at location "I", despite the diagram seeming to show a single. I recently replaced a broken single here with two seperate rings. (Sliced through by vibration and its proximity to the metal rail, I think a single will be less prone to this problem.)
Seems like Williams was a little hasty when they drew up the diagram for this.

I went back and looked at the diagram... I’d bet they forgot to put an I on this location as well as forgot to illustrate the ring. So the total number of 7/16 rings is 2 (which is correctly listed), one at each location.

#5435 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

See, I was always confused by this, because do they mean two smaller 7/16 OD rings? Or one larger 7/16 ID ring? I wish they specified.

I think smaller... they just look right to me anyway... but I’m sure others have differences of opinion.

2981FE56-F6E1-4DC2-9ECA-81298BBDCA79 (resized).jpeg2981FE56-F6E1-4DC2-9ECA-81298BBDCA79 (resized).jpeg480BD2D3-DB47-478F-9087-F61EC1597BA7 (resized).jpeg480BD2D3-DB47-478F-9087-F61EC1597BA7 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#5535 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Started a quarantine playfield teardown. Its pretty nasty and dirty. Any fixes for the worn wood on the rollover? Or just mylar and forget about it?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are you going to have your playfield restored/cleared? I mean that would probably be the only way to mitigate that. Now that Mirco has repros for this... depending up on your budget that may be the way to go. Otherwise, you will probably have to live with it. Biggest problem with "living with it" is that it will get worse.

#5536 4 years ago
Quoted from Fremen:

I have a small issue that I was hoping someone could help me with. When i start Castle Grunewald mode, the single drop down target does not drop. When you hit the target, it will pop back up, not allowing you to hit the captive ball and collect rewards during that mode. The single drop target seems to work normal at other times (with the lost treasures).
When i put the game in test mode for solenoids, the TOTEM DROPDOWN does not drop the single target. The J107-2 voltage connector looks fine and the J127-9 drive connector appears okay as well. Is it possible that the small yellow solenoid (SM1-26-600) that is part of the single drop down assembly has gone bad? I have a multimeter but am not very experienced with it and am not sure how to test that solenoid. Thank you for any ideas!

Have you tried manually raising the target and then manually actuating (pull the lever against the solenoid) to see if the mechanics of the auto-drop mechanism work? Make sure all springs are in place / etc.

#5541 4 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

Question: what kit should I be ordering (when it comes back in stock) for the ribbon cables?
I have a repair customer, and have been looking at GPE and others, but not sure what set I need to be ordering.
Thanks!

Are you talking about ribbon a ribbon cable kit for IJ?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RC1382

#5576 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I located the opto board but everything looks okay. Any other suggestions or tips on what the issue could be or how I could find it? Thank you.

Well the opto board can look OK but still be faulty. Are any of the other opto switches faulty... or just the one?

#5579 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

All other optos are working great.

If you could swap those for another pair basically swap connectors under the playfield (opto connectors are 4 pin .062) ... if you can make it reach... and see if the problem follows the connector. Then you know its probably the board. Also reseat J209 on the CPU board.

#5583 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, I can’t swap any of the opto connectors to test because all the female ends are different. I also reseated all the connectors on the CPU board. Btw, J209 doesn’t have anything plugged into it? Any other suggestions? Thank you!!

All of the opto assemblies for both ramps, the captive ball and the upkicker for the idol all have the same 4 pin connectors.... like I said, I'm not sure you have enough reach to swap.

Your CPU board may have your opto board plugged into J208... J209 is on the bottom row, far right... J208 is right above it.

#5588 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Has anyone installed the PinSound board on the IJ? Just wondering if theres a big difference in sound quality as its not a cheap upgrade. If its a drastic difference I'll probably pull the trigger on one .

This has been done by many people... You will find it all over the forums. It is a phenomenal upgrade.

#5596 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Maybe it's finally time to ask for help with an issue that has been plaguing my IJ since I bought it 17 years ago...
You know the left and right control gates at the back of the playfield that control the orbit? The right one works fine. Gate goes up, gate goes down.
The left one, however, goes up - but doesn't go down. Unless I push it down, or vibration eventually knocks it down. I can't see any visible problem with any parts, springs are all fine, but the resistance when I push it back down feels like it's being held up by...magnetism?
Is that a thing that can happen here? That a part has become permanently magnetised to the point that it constantly holds the gate up? How can I be sure? Is there an easy fix for this? Or am I off base?

It’s a bitch to work back there ... especially with the ramp installed.

There should be a tiny bit of natural play in the flap. When it’s resting ... see if it has any back and forth play... then lift it up and see if it still has back and forth play. This will at least tell you that it’s not binding on the rod wire.

#5617 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

I’m pretty sure I remember a distinct left and right part number when I too mine apart. I can say from looking at them, the gate wires are different facing the playfield. I guess confirm yours look the same[quoted image][quoted image]

Yup, the gate wires are different however springs, flaps, brackets are all the same.

#5641 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Does the orientation of the wires matter for the POA motor? If so, what wire needs to be on the tab closest to the cabinet? Thanks.

You can rotate that motor around (it doesn’t have any mechanical polarity... it fits either way) ... and the wires will be in the opposite position... you need to look on the motor body... There is an indent in the plastic on one of the terminals...this is where the white wire goes.

#5645 4 years ago

Quick question... the leg/guides in the rear of the playfield... are yours bent or straight? I'm seeing the same part number for either bent or straight. Mine are bent... just want to make sure they are the right ones, pretty sure they are.

#5656 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I want to help answer this question, but I don't know exactly which part you're talking about. The actual legs of the machine? Are there different leg/guides on the playfield I'm not aware of?

They are attached to the back board of the playfield... and look like a J

#5660 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Most definitely bent.[quoted image]

Thanks! Yeah I was looking to replace mine, the ones listed at marcospecialties for IJ are shown as straight... The straight and bent version of these have the same part number... I think. I've found a nice stainless set at mantis.

#5665 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Color dmd... lcd or led?

You're probably going to get an even split on this... just a guess. Personally I like the LED for Indy... even if it is as bright as the sun. There are means to cope with the glare caused by the intensity of the display.... https://www.cometpinball.com/products/dmd-glare-eliminators?variant=12493660913708 or bent plastic (I'm not a bent plastic fan).

#5667 4 years ago
Quoted from Bernardspop:

This is simple, Indiana Jones has a lot of intricate graphics including semi-realistic animations of Indy himself. An LCD DMD will help highlight the color shading of the animations.
An LED DMD should be use for machines with animations that are more basic and cartoonish, such as: Addams Family, Twilight Zone or White Water. The bright LED's are the perfect contrast for these kind of illustrations.

I agree ... however for me I don't care for the blended look of the LCD shading, always kind of looked funky to me... its purely a preference for me on the dots. However if you do go with LCD you can have it both ways if you so choose.

#5681 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I've tried putting foam directly on the deflector, but actually found that made the problem worse in my case. I've also dropped the depth of the mode saucer using washers, and that has helped a tiny bit, but bounce-outs are still common. I've experimented with bending the deflector at different angles, but I've yet to find the sweet spot.
Adding a Cliffy protector seemed to help the ball stay in there a little better at first, but on recent inspection the protector is quite bent now - pounded into the contours of the hole by the ball.
There's the old suggestion of the curved scoop, and people who have added a curve to their existing deflector. How well does this work? How hard is it to shape that piece of steel into a functional curve?

Has anyone tried using the curved scoop that is used for the center hole? Does it fit?

#5683 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Oh, my mistake. That is the center hole scoop. But yeah...I'd also be curious to know if it'd work. Probably won't fit underneath the plastic.

I think it would... they are on the same plane... both fit under the metal guides with plastic on top. My concern would be the relative mounting hole locations.

#5692 4 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

What is this "carbon fiber cliff" that you used ? Any pics?
Anyway the solution with springs proposed by Kirk332 seems the best to me.. we have to understand if it has caused problem with time..

IMG_3316 (resized).jpgIMG_3316 (resized).jpg
#5697 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Looks right to me - it just needs to be screwed all the way down to hold the gate tight to the spacer.

Yup

7C9F8094-5066-46F8-AC54-340752076A52 (resized).jpeg7C9F8094-5066-46F8-AC54-340752076A52 (resized).jpeg
#5703 4 years ago

PinSound shaker is going to give you the most flexibility in terms of shake events and shake duration. However it requires work on your part to configure your shake events.

Pinshaker is going to give you a very quick installation and configuration but will not have as much flexibility in shake events because it it’s connected to hardware signals vs. sound events like PinSound.

If I didn’t have PinSound already I would have gone Pinshaker. Shake for buck it’s a great value and super easy to get going.

#5705 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I can hook a pinshaker motor in my IJ, even though I have a Pinsound+ board installed, correct?

Yes they are completely independent.

#5729 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Presented without further context.[quoted image]

I dig this ... a whole bunch !!!

#5733 4 years ago
Quoted from mike99:

Need a little help trying to figure out a weak right ramp flasher. Tip 102 tested properly, good continuity to all the bulbs. Manual says it runs 3 89s but believe that to be a typo. I have two of those below the right ramp and one 906 in the green dome. I ran jumpers from the backbox directly to the 906 bulb and it was bright. I disconnected the lower two 89s and the green dome 906 was bright. All three hooked up, all dim. Changed with all fresh bulbs. All connectors seem good as well as solder joints.
Can some verify all three playfield bulbs flash (Flasher #26) and there is a 906 under the green dome.
Any ideas?
Thanks

#26 is actually wired to four bulbs, the green dome and two under the ramp and one in the back box

#5744 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Anyone else have issues with the ball sometimes jumping out of the left ramp? It seems that a direct shot on the left ramp causes the ball to go so fast that it flies out of the wire rail, often hitting the biplane on the way out. Anyone figure out a good way to slow down this shot without breaking the flow of the ramp shot?
Here's a slow-motion video to show what I mean:

First of all.. that video is fun to watch! Perfectly shot!

Along the same lines... is the ramp just set back too far? Moving it forward may make it engage the wireform more so when the ball comes out of the ramp it may decelerate a bit more... because it should hit that first curve a bit more directly, absorbing some of its energy.

This stuff is nuts... it doesn't take much to change the physical behavior of things. I've always felt that it would be really fun designing a game and working out all of these types of physical issues.

#5746 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

If anything, I feel the ramp might actually be set too far forward. Mine looks further forward than pics of other IJs I've seen, so that the metal flap slightly overlaps the ramp arrow on the playfield. I actually removed it recently to see if it had been moved from its factory position, but there was only one set of screw holes for the front flap.
My other suspicion was that the angle might be slightly off. The support post at the back that comes up from the INDY lanes doesn't line up directly with the screw hole in the tab on the ramp, I have to really pull the long metal spacer backward to align it with the hole, which pulls the angle of the ramp down ever so slightly. I thought the spacer might be the wrong length, but on double checking the manual, it's right.
It's a difference of millimeters, both in the ramp position and angle, but it might be enough to affect gameplay. I'm hesitant to drill new holes in the playfield, but I'll try anything that is non-destructive and non-permanent. I may just have to keep tweaking and testing what I can, there's just not a lot of leeway for adjusting either the ramp or the rail. I'm thinking something to either slow down the ball, or a guard to block the jump point.

Not sure if this helps.. but this is where the #4 ramp screw positions are on my playfield...

IMG_3483 (resized).jpgIMG_3483 (resized).jpg
#5749 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

If I were you, I would line up the ramp with the rear support post first and mark the flap holes. Then simply drill pilot holes and let the screws take care of the rest.

This is a good suggestion.

I've also seen variances in the wireforms. Specifically the guage of the wire. My replacement wireforms were significantly thicker than the ones I exchanged. Not sure if they were reproductions someone made at some point or variances in production over time. So there will be some delta among'st the population of games. Consequently you never really know if your game is 100% original ... most have them have been f****d with by someone at some point.

#5751 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

When I got my machine, there were a few things which were clear: it had come from overseas, had long been routed, and still had almost all of its original parts.
One thing that really struck me was that, when the wireforms became tarnished, some operator decided to just spray paint them gold. As the machine got used, this led to a ton of gold dust flaking off into the machine. Oy, what a pain that was to clean out! But after stripping the paint and a good polish, those rails really came back to life.
I wonder what other "hacks" we've all had to deal with from previous owners?

I couldn't believe how much stuff was wrong on mine once I dug into it. Most if it was fairly trivial but still. Even during the restoration process.. when I was putting it back to "normal" ... I've still made some tweaks.

#5753 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

To further illustrate my situation:
You can see with the ramp off where my screw holes are. Pretty far forward to begin with - certainly further forward than ricochet's playfield.
Now, if I line up the flap to where I THINK it should go, you can see the difference in positions. Also, when the ramp is in this new position, there is no way to line up the screw hole at the top of the ramp with the INDY lane post - it's WAY off. If I try to line up the rear post first, then the ramp would be even further forward than it was before, which doesn't work because of other plastics being in the way.
I'm not going to risk screwing a bunch of new holes in the playfield with no guarantee it's going to make any difference - I would have to be 100% sure. I think my best bet is to keep the ramp as-is and try to add something that will slow down the ball as it rounds the top of the ramp.
I've seen other posts from the distant past highlighting this problem, but I'm kind of surprised this isn't more commonplace. Seems like it's just a few minor differences between games - luck of the draw, I guess.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah... welp I'd say you are where you are. The standoff on the lane guide sort of dictates it. If I recall, when I installed mine it wasn't dead nuts on but it wasn't like what you have shown at all.

#5778 4 years ago
Quoted from eb94114:

Thanks for the input on this.
Mine is a translite, as far as I can tell, not a paper poster (although is there a way to tell for sure?). It just has plexiglass as the back glass. Sounds like they were that way to begin with, if I am reading your post correctly. Thanks so much for the guidance.[quoted image]

The translite goes behind glass. It is held on by plastic trim strips along the top and sides.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-822X-X

The trim along the top and the sides are the same type... It’s just that the sides are 22” long and the top is 27” long.

The trim along the bottom has an edge to be able to lift it up to tilt out and remove it.

That’s about it
68560600-B391-4B28-B974-9626BD47AE91 (resized).jpeg68560600-B391-4B28-B974-9626BD47AE91 (resized).jpegAECA334E-DE0F-41EA-8319-7DBC991E029E (resized).jpegAECA334E-DE0F-41EA-8319-7DBC991E029E (resized).jpegF59893C7-6B87-4742-98C3-062484B967F5 (resized).jpegF59893C7-6B87-4742-98C3-062484B967F5 (resized).jpeg

#5782 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Holy smokes, ricochet. I just noticed that you have an electronic Merlin toy from the early 80's in the background of one of your shots.
I had one of those. Now that's a thing I haven't heard of in a long time...a long time.
See if you can spot the classic piece of 80's electronics in my picture:[quoted image]

Oh man I love it!

Yup ... Merlin ... maybe a few Star Wars toys... Dark Tower board game is in there somewhere. I dig 80's electronic games

#5793 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

For those wondering, Mirco's new playfield screw holes have been lining up quite nicely with all the playfield parts. I have not had to redrill a single hole. Some of the screw dimples were slightly out of place underneath, but those I used more as a helpful guide anyways. Let's see how well the rest of the playfield parts line up...
[quoted image]

Excellent! That looks great! I'm so thrilled that there are playfield replacements for this machine... other than a few unique parts... I feel like these new playfields enable many more great restoration opportunities for this awesome title!

#5815 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

On the back panel of my IJ theres a circuit board A-16930 with three lights (I think their for the bridge). The back panel is routed out for the lights. The A-16930 board is referenced in the manual, but theres no schematic and the lights are not referenced in the light matrix. My problem is I can't seem to get those bulbs working.
I'm wondering if anyone else has this board in their back panel, and how its connected to the game.

That is an early run of the game. The original back-board design had the lamp board to illuminate the plastic behind the bridge. This was abandoned during full production of the game. Very cool that you have this.

#5820 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you have this in your game?

My game did not have this.

#5821 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Be nice to get it back up and running. I assume it had nothing to do with the bridge mode, and just illuminated the bridge plastic? I guess I can just wire it to a GI

Yes it should be wired to the upper GI power line... Its the pair that is white-brown and brown... see attached picture

upperGIlamp (resized).jpgupperGIlamp (resized).jpg
#5826 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Hey folks, working on restoring indy in the wee hours. Just removed PoA and while unplugging under the machine i found this loose plug. No clue where it goes, any help is appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

dmacy is correct and based upon the location... it connects to the micro switch of the bridge to the POA.

#5830 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

98% cleaned and working. Few small issues to iron out but had a weird question. Is the left lane light hand of fate supposed to be on full time? Mine doesn't flash or turn off when the game is on
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes they are on all the time in attract mode... and are actually on the white-violet / violet GI strand. There is a different test for them (in the general illumination settings) for it.

#5838 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

I mean even during gameplay the left lane LIGHT HAND OF FATE lamp never turns off. Just checking if thats normal

Sorry brother... my answer was not complete, but AaronZOOM got it!

#5859 3 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Did anyone install pinball life lighted flipper buttons? What colors do you suggest? I was thinking red, orange, or yellow, but haven't redone my cabinet art yet so don't know what the end result would look like. Just wondering, thank you

Red... stick with the original non-lit color.... yellow and orange(amber) LEDs just don't look good IMHO

#5868 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Does anyone know the switch part number for the switch that activates the post for the POA? Its the rollover switch right before the up and down post. For whatever reason its not listed in the manual. Thanks!

5647-12693-56

#5873 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Is it normal for the up and down post before the POA to be pulled down sometimes? For example, I’ll make a shot that activates POA, the ball goes down POA and doesn’t get all the lit switches. In order for me to complete POA it requires another shot up right ramp to POA, but the up and down post doesn’t stop the ball (the post is down). So the ball passes the POA and travels down the left trail to the in lane of the ball return to the flipper. So frustrating.
I should note that at some point the up and down post does return to the up position during the game. Not sure when. Also, there is no obstruction preventing the post from a smooth up and down motion.
Thoughts?[quoted image]

Check the mounting bracket that holds the post coil... it loosens up, the bracket twists and the post binds on the hole in the ramp. The spring that returns it is very light so it doesn’t take much for the post to bind.

#5878 3 years ago

Question for the folks running version L-7... when you open the coin door do you get the high voltage warning message on the display???

I swear mine use to do that (before I rebuilt it and upgraded) but am not seeing the message now (yes I’ve tested all my switches ... they are fine and coin door open switch works as it should)

#5880 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I'm running L-7, and I don't get a high voltage warning.
I didn't even know that was a thing. When I bought my machine, I was running L-5, but that was over 15 years ago and I don't remember that warning.

I bet I’m imagining it!!!! I think ‘93 is when they started putting that message in their pins.

#5883 3 years ago
Quoted from EagleEd7:

Requesting Help. I have several machines and have a decent general knowledge. But recently my IJ machine is adding a second ball into the plunger lane during play. Then when you hit the gun the two balls go up into the playfield. But when one ball drains the machine ends that players game and totals up bonus and score for that ball. Has any one ever had this happen and what did you do or suggest for me to correct this issues. Thank you for everyone's time.

One possible problem...

Check the switch in the shooter lane. Seems like it may be physically damaged ... or may have a loose connection. For whatever reason when the ball is kicked out of the trough and into the shooter lane... the program doesn’t think it’s there ... so it tries again.

#5888 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

How would I be able to tell what the common wire from the switch matrix would be?
Really appreciate the help.

If you don't have the manual... its essential...
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1267/Williams_1993_Indiana_Jones_The_Pinball_Adventure_English_Manual.pdf

switchmatrix (resized).pngswitchmatrix (resized).png
#5898 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

The wait is over! The screen printed airball protectors are ready. This is the last batch for a while (at least in 2020).
Contains the 3 bank drop target and a single drop target protector (with protective foil on both sides).
The price of set is $35 plus shipping (same price as in 2019). Shipping is 10-12 USD, depends of location (if you are an actual customer of KornFreak28 (planes, Batch 4), no shipping cost will occur).
PM me for further details.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

FANTASTIC PRODUCT!

Don't forget to add a bit of mylar around this area... I got this tip from the maker

mylar (resized).jpgmylar (resized).jpgmylar-2 (resized).jpgmylar-2 (resized).jpg
#5900 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

PBFan: Thanks so much for that guide. Excellent reference.
How difficult is it to access the 3 optos inside the Idol?
Do you remove the Idol from on top or can you access the optos from below the pf.
I’m not all that tech savvy and I’m hoping they just need to be cleaned as I’ve never re-flowed nor replaced optos before.
In test, it’s not reading position 2-4 (only 1, 5 & 6 positions are shown).
Thanks again!

It’s a bit of work ... you need to remove the assembly.

First you need to remove the idol head... It has to be rotated into position where you can access the set screw from the front (where the balls release). You need to hold down the ball lock gate and looseN the screw. A long Allen wrench helps.

Then underneath ... unplug the opto cable and the motor cable.

Remove the 3 screws holding the rotator assembly to the playfield.

That’s it.
AAA8B086-BC95-4742-B742-2CF1DF5A5EC4 (resized).jpegAAA8B086-BC95-4742-B742-2CF1DF5A5EC4 (resized).jpeg

D3DDC275-5108-4D78-921C-35FC83477C5C (resized).jpegD3DDC275-5108-4D78-921C-35FC83477C5C (resized).jpeg
#5902 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

Thanks! Will give this a try tonight. Going to be looking for a broken wire as well.

You may be able to see a broken wire just by visual inspection of the assembly... before you start taking it off

#5904 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

Thanks again.
I will first eyeball the entire area before attempting to remove the Idol head and assembly. Re-soldering a broken wire would certainly be preferable.

You won’t be able to re-solder anything without taking it off

#5906 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

I’ve been trying for an hour to get the allen key to turn the screw to release the Idol head, but there is so little space and I can’t get a good enough angle.
I’ve gone into test mode to rotate the Idol head mech, but it won’t line up straight.
Are there any suggestions as to how I can line-up the Idol screw hole for the Allen key to access it?

Unplug the motor ... use a 9V battery across the terminals... this will activate the motor ... just tap the terminals with the battery until you get the idol head into position.

#5913 3 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I got a new Path of Adventure motor control board and the POA is now working, sort of. Going left is fine. Going right is a little choppy. It shows that the right opto is registering and then not over and over as the path pivots over. When it does actually break the opto it stops as it should. Need some ideas to check out. Path and the finger that breaks the optos are both tight.

Loose / intermittent connection to the #2 opto receiver??? The wire that’s connected to Pin 2 on the opto board

#5915 3 years ago

Could also be a failure on the 10 opto board (the one under the playfield)

#5944 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Over a decade ago, I bought some new IJ drop target decals online from...somewhere. They were unique, because all the areas which were usually yellow were instead shiny gold foil. They are really nice, and no longer exist anywhere.
Yesterday, it finally happened - one of my drop targets snapped. The decal was unrecoverable. So I've spent the day looking into making my own replacement.
With metallic stickers, it seems like I can't get them printed in low enough quantities for one person. I was curious if anyone would be interested in going in together to get some new ones made?
Here's the general idea:
[quoted image]
Fire me a PM if you'd also want this. I'm not really selling these - just looking for some like-minded pinheads to share in the cost.

This is a great idea ! PM sent

#5987 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Call me crazy, but after listening to the popular endprodukt sound re-orchestration, I'm really not sold on the PinSound stuff. I just really like the classic music and SFX - the remix fundamentally changes the way certain parts of the music feel. Change my mind.
I think the best possible upgrade is the ColorDMD. If I could only pick one thing, it's that with no hesitation.

I respect this position. There are parts of the mix I don’t care for. Some of the call outs are awkward and some fit nicely. I like the music and some of the added special effects sounds the most. I am going to thin it out a bit.

#5990 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I think most of the music is fantastic, especially the very effective use of the John Williams soundtrack. Where it really falters for me are the fanfares - specifically when you collect a friend, when you finish a mode, when you lock a ball, and the end-of-ball mode bonus tally.
I also really like the addition of more actual movie quotes, but it's too over the top with the Harrison Ford soundalike. I think the original Sallah callouts are some of the best in pinball, and they really seem diminished or pushed back in the new mix.
I understand the whole package is pretty customizable, but I think I would remove so much stuff it just wouldn't be worth my while. Besides, I think the original sound team did such a great job on this, the first game to use Williams DCS, that I just want to appreciate it how it was originally intended.

Yup agreed. I’m probably going to land a lot closer to the original mix by the time I’m done. There is a punch (no pun intended) to the audio quality that the original sound card simply can’t deliver... plus the added equalization controls are really what makes it for me. The shaker adder is icing on the cake. I don’t have my shaker going nuts either ... it’s subtle.

#5992 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Here's what the gold-accented decals look like in the machine:
[quoted image]
The gold really catches the light in a nice way, making the targets stand out better than previously without being gaudy or overpowering.
I put mylar on the center target, and left the other two bare to see how they'd hold up. Seems really durable (using specially cured UV inks), but only time and hundreds of games will tell. The target itself will probably give out before the decal.

Nice! I can’t wait to see how these look in person...They are really going to twinkle on my machine!

#6023 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

What pitch do you guys keep your IJ at?
Also, do you measure you pitch between the flippers or higher up the pf?

6.5deg higher towards the center of the playfield.

#6025 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

Ricochet: Do you know what your pitch is between the flippers?
Do you find hitting your right ramp is easy & seamless?
I’m at 6.5 measured at the flippers currently but wondering if I should have a bit more pitch.

I do not... but if the playfield is not warped ... it should not really be different. I just always measure pitch in the center. Do you have an accuracy problem or a power problem? Are you using silicone flipper rubbers ?

#6027 3 years ago
Quoted from JMK:

Maybe it’s just my accuracy. Have been working recently on my game quite a bit fixing some issues. Just need to look at re-leveling. Thanks for the feedback!

I recently rebuilt my machine... A ton of stuff changed on it since the restoration:
1. It went from filthy to clean as a whistle
2. Flipper coils were not right... they were 30s now they are the correct 29s
3. Flipper rubber was standard red rubber... now I'm trying titan's silicone.

So there are a few variables to this equation... I've had to adjust and at first was having a hell of a time hitting anything. Not sure I'm sticking with the silicone flippers... I wasn't going this route originally... but I just installed my entire ring kit; had a brain cramp and forgot that wasn't my plan... and just left them on there.

#6029 3 years ago

Since I've restored my game I've been overly critical of game play... I've been doing little tweaks here and there... I'm at the bottom of the barrel now.

Have any of you ever noticed you get rewarded Narrow Escape during a drain? I've seen this quite a bit and its attributed to slow ball speed. When the ball goes down the right out lane, the Narrow Escape reward is given when the upper switch closes but the bottom switch does not register closed within a specified amount of time (don't know exactly what that time is)... the game then assumes the ball is back in play... and reward! Therefore the speed of the ball and distance between actuators is what will drive this reward... since the timing is hard coded.

I've mostly eliminated the issue by changing out the actuator of the bottom switch. It now actuates sooner (but not if the ball comes off the idol ramp and makes it through the gate) so that Narrow Escape wont be rewarded when it shouldn't. I mean if the ball gets all wabble-ly in there the timer can expire and reward you there is nothing that can be done in that case... but that's not the case I care about. Mine seemed to be rewarding quite a bit when it shouldn't ... oh and there was nothing wrong with the switch.

outlane (resized).jpgoutlane (resized).jpg
#6032 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Yes, I get this ALL THE TIME. Though it's not a matter of the ball going slowly - on my game, the ball can easily squeak past the bottom outlane switch and the star post without actually hitting the switch. I get the reward as the ball is draining! This can happen no matter where the outlane post is set. I feel like this happens almost 50% of the time when I drain down the right outlane.
I've tried to fix this by bending the actuator switch higher to make it more sensitive, and I've considered re-mounting the switch to be further up the slot, but I'd prefer not to drill.
Perhaps what I really need is a round style actuator, as you've shown here. Is this custom?

This is a Stern part ...
ROLLOVER #180-5126-00

#6034 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Thanks! Mixing Coke and Pepsi would not have occurred to me.

Ha!!! Not gonna lie ... bugs me a little. However, it works like a champ!

#6036 3 years ago

I gave you the wrong part... I used this one and pulled it off the bracket
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-9935-04

Might be easier to go with this one ... it’s cheaper... just pitch the bracket, the actuator is correct.
https://www.pinballlife.com/rollover-switch-with-mounting-bracket.html

#6039 3 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Thinking about joining this club (meaning thinking of IJPA acquisition) Should I do it?

Heck yeah! No downside to joining the club!

#6051 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Since I've restored my game I've been overly critical of game play... I've been doing little tweaks here and there... I'm at the bottom of the barrel now.
Have any of you ever noticed you get rewarded Narrow Escape during a drain? I've seen this quite a bit and its attributed to slow ball speed. When the ball goes down the right out lane, the Narrow Escape reward is given when the upper switch closes but the bottom switch does not register closed within a specified amount of time (don't know exactly what that time is)... the game then assumes the ball is back in play... and reward! Therefore the speed of the ball and distance between actuators is what will drive this reward... since the timing is hard coded.
I've mostly eliminated the issue by changing out the actuator of the bottom switch. It now actuates sooner (but not if the ball comes off the idol ramp and makes it through the gate) so that Narrow Escape wont be rewarded when it shouldn't. I mean if the ball gets all wabble-ly in there the timer can expire and reward you there is nothing that can be done in that case... but that's not the case I care about. Mine seemed to be rewarding quite a bit when it shouldn't ... oh and there was nothing wrong with the switch.
[quoted image]

Not quite done with this yet... played and played and played and had one instance of the ball getting caught... I’ve two more ideas ... I’ll post when I’m satisfied.

#6055 3 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Anyone rockin the comet led kit in their INdy that can post some pics?

Comet sunlights everywhere brother... you won't regret it.

#6057 3 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Was looking at your matrix again, you didn’t use led for any flashers in the game?
You have a pic of finished look of lighting you did?

I used LED flashers for the back box and everything underneath the playfield. Everything on top of the playfield is incandescent flashers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1nUDQhNMCDqx9Zcf7
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vWCDP2mHtD3iR8CfPyN1i4qBFt_whKb21BIooUhlpP4/edit?usp=sharing

cometsunlightleds (resized).jpgcometsunlightleds (resized).jpg

#6059 3 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Is your left flipper perfectly setup to nail the jackpot shot?

HA! Old pic... this was before I completed the setup.

#6064 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im a huge fan of 12v 5 led tower flashers from comet.
Easy and perfect replacement for #906 bulbs.
I like that they are very bright and really pop.

They are very good.

#6067 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey, folks need your help. I was working on my Indy today, just replaced some lane guides, but also did some cleaning in the cabinet so I was moving wires around. However, I have an error now a no-ball launch.
The error is: Er. Single Drp. Bad chk. switch/coil
However in switch test and solenoid test all works. Could this be a fuse? [quoted image]

Did you by any chance turn on the unit with coin door open? You’ll get some weird errors like this when you don’t have the high voltage enabled at power up.

#6076 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Not quite done with this yet... played and played and played and had one instance of the ball getting caught... I’ve two more ideas ... I’ll post when I’m satisfied.

On the Narrow Escape reward on drain...

I've been trying all kinds of switch types to see if there is a happy medium in terms of how to make sure the outlane switch is hit. In reality ... its very difficult to solve, primarily because its missing a ball guide. After playing with it it occurred to me there should be some type of guide on the lower right side of that outlane. The ball simply bounces off the lower post of the wire gate, and goes around the switch. If the actuator is too long the ball will get stuck between the actuator and the lower post of the wire gate. Interestingly... I decided to go back and look at the manual... have a look.. they illustrate two posts there!

I've a couple of ideas. I'm not crazy about driving two posts in there... although that may be the right solution ... or maybe not... who knows, this may have been the original design intent but after playing some weirdness occurred with it (like maybe the ball bounced off the top post and back through the gate too often) so they simply didn't bother, opting for the lesser of two evils.

The last thing I'm going to do is try to fabricate a steel ball guide to fit and experiment with that. If there can't be a happy medium position for the ball guide... (meaning not too far to the left that it would affect the performance of the adjustable post or... too far right that the ball could get caught between the ball guide and the switch) it simply wont work. Personally I think an eddy sensor or reed switch would have been perfect here but in the grand scheme of things... I suppose its not that big of a deal.

posts (resized).pngposts (resized).png

#6078 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Still looking at this i see, but why? Your previous change of the actuator worked for me, I used the same one you quoted and have since had ZERO narrow escape bonuses on a ball drain since dialing it in. I would think you solved this problem already. At first it got caught up in the lane once or twice but I bent the metal slightly until it was perfectly in the middle of the hole and it has been perfect since (around 100 games already).

Yeah I had to the ball get caught a few times. I wanted to avoid bending the switch actuator. Glad it worked for you !!!

737F992A-7F47-484A-B24E-3F97D9128096 (resized).jpeg737F992A-7F47-484A-B24E-3F97D9128096 (resized).jpeg
#6080 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Here is mine, At first i had a couple like your pic but I just had to be sure it was lined up directly in the middle and the issues stopped.
[quoted image]

Well maybe I'll revisit the alignment... hmm. Intuitively it seemed more like a height problem to me, but if it works... great.

#6082 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

How about an MRS switch?
More and more im seeing applications for these.
I put one on my diner cup and its amazing.
Im thinking if putting them on the steps ramp on my funhouse.

Yup... this is definitely an option!!! I was thinking if i could mount it on its side it would be perfect!

#6084 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The wide paint ring at the lower ball gate post would denote a star post there.
Or at least a fatter post.
The lane is too wide without this.
I think that is all thats needed.

Normally that would be the case but I don't think so... those are typical lane guide countersunk holes for the standoffs. I still believe the issues is on the right side and lack of lane guide there.

lowerplayfield (resized).jpglowerplayfield (resized).jpg
#6096 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I printed a limited number of extra sets for those that would like some. I’d like those here in the IJ club who are interested to get a first crack at them. They’re specially die cut and mounted on center-punched foam so they can be easily stuck right over the rivet. PM me if you’re interested.
The full set includes seven custom designs. Five are from Quick 2-ball multiball – The Idol of the Incas, the Diamond of Shanghai, the Cross of Coronado, the Remains of Nurhachi, and the Fish of Tayles. The Medallion is from the Raven Bar video mode, and the Shield of the Grail Knight is because I wanted to.
They’re a bit hard to photograph, because the treasures themselves are shiny & metallic, but I took a few quick shots of them in and out of my machine:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I also still have some of the metallic gold drop targets available, if anyone is looking for some extra shine!
[quoted image]

Yummie!!! Yessiree!!!!

#6107 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

OK thanks....It looks like Ricochet had an issue with hot spots due to the pinbits board being to close to the panel (although he fixed the issue). This board is a little different as it has surface mount LED's so it might not be an issue? I have the LCD display so not sure if I'll have a problem or not? worst cast I can always try to figure out another way to mount the board.

My speaker panel and jackpot LED board were both made by pinbits... so the mounting screw locations for the pinbits jackpot led board ended up being bit to close to the bottom LED ColorDMD chassis. This would not allow the jackpot PCB to fit with the standoffs in place... the screws would not align to mounting holes in the PCB due to the interference of the Color DMD. My first quick an dirty fix was just to remove the standoffs and mount the jackpot led PCB right on top of the wood (its basically under the ColorDMD). This is what created the hotspot... the leds were simply too close to the plastic. What I ended up doing was elongating the holes for the jackpot led pcb... all it took was like 1/16" of tolerance vertically. This allowed me to put the standoffs back in thereby creating some play in the PCB mounting holes so it would fit along side the Color DMD. If you are locating and mounting your own mounting studs I'm sure you can make it work.

1 week later
#6112 3 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Almost done restoring my IJ, but Im having a problem with my IDOL. Its not aligned right? As you can see in the pic, it stops in this position and drops the ball gate, then rotates in this position again and tries to drop the second and third ball? All the opts work, cleaned them, tested each one, the idol can only go on one way as well as the opto interruptor underneath (both aligned correctly). Have tried everything, any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks Mike
[quoted image]

The opto interruptor may be upside down??? Just a guess... not sure if it’s possible to mount it upside down or not.

87E123A0-3D44-4766-91F5-F2EA472B5F02 (resized).jpeg87E123A0-3D44-4766-91F5-F2EA472B5F02 (resized).jpeg
#6116 3 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Everything worked 100% before I tore it apart.

I would double check and make sure that your optics are all in the correct locations and re-run the idol test.

#6120 3 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

All the optics are correct per the manual and it passes every test. It seems like it’s off by one stop for some reason, I fooled with it for hours and still cannot figure it out.

The ball plate assembly, the thing that the idol screws to...
...it has a press fit coupling to the drive shaft collet. You probably have already checked it ... but make sure its not slipping... you shouldn't be able to manually turn the idol at all.

All the set screws have to be on the flat side of the D shaft... and you have verified that so I don't know what else it could be... like you said it really only goes on one way... and if all of the optics are correctly installed... and if you run the idol test it stops in all locations (albeit its off position) it has to be that its out of position physically somehow.

Did you do any work with the wiring (molex connectors/etc below the playfield)?

#6125 3 years ago

I’ve decided to make a ball guide for the right exit lane. It looks funny without it and it will serve the real purpose of fixing the Narrow Escape problem.

This is the 2D view. There will be a bend in it just below the adjustable post so it will look nice regardless of where the post is set.

D56A99EF-AC2C-444E-94CF-043791A422A3 (resized).jpegD56A99EF-AC2C-444E-94CF-043791A422A3 (resized).jpeg

#6128 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Awesome.....are u just making one

Nope... gonna make several

#6130 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Just a thought, but if u didnt actually want to make several I could actually talk to Cliff (Cliffy protectors) and see if he can make them? He just lives down the road from me ... just a thought

They are already on their way. Once I get them tested I will make the .dxf file available to anyone who wants to make them. I just want to make sure it’s a good idea

#6132 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

+1 upvote for ricochet for potentially solving the same problem in two different ways. I'm still rocking a 100% no false narrow escapes after deploying the actuator replacement you recommended a few pages back, and I've played at least a couple hundred rounds since doing so.

Thank you! Yeah this guide is part function part aesthetic.

#6139 3 years ago

Yup it’s riveted. So the type of screwdriver you need is a drill bit

#6158 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Well for starters, the metal tab right next to the drop pin is bent WAAAAAAAY too far out. Mine points to the first screw top on the mini PF. Bend it to the left and then report back

Agreed!

#6163 3 years ago

Prototyped the right outlane ball guide.

I put extra length on it to give it a bend to make a soft edge for when the post is all the way to the right. Welp with the plastic on there ... it’s just not necessary. I’m gonna rev it to get rid of the bend and extra material.

I think it looks good (except for the tape that’s holding it)... and it serves a real purpose.

0D9C6FBC-E825-46FD-865D-45678BBA8C7F (resized).jpeg0D9C6FBC-E825-46FD-865D-45678BBA8C7F (resized).jpeg9616460B-F01E-4A46-A1CF-4F12EA661FF9 (resized).jpeg9616460B-F01E-4A46-A1CF-4F12EA661FF9 (resized).jpeg4657F807-D6E2-4FE2-89ED-93B4E4262823 (resized).jpeg4657F807-D6E2-4FE2-89ED-93B4E4262823 (resized).jpeg1D0803FA-6890-4AEB-9A75-A1A6FD873CEB (resized).jpeg1D0803FA-6890-4AEB-9A75-A1A6FD873CEB (resized).jpeg9CB9FBE4-2003-402A-BDC1-F0DDCFA65641 (resized).jpeg9CB9FBE4-2003-402A-BDC1-F0DDCFA65641 (resized).jpeg
#6164 3 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

Thanks guys. The ball stops at the post, then when it drops, the ball continues on left across the ramp. I'll bend that tab back and give it a bit more pitch.

... also check the stand-off that is holding the long exit ramp on the left... be sure it’s all the way screwed into it’s t-nut. It also should be a M-F 3.25” standoff. There are two long standoffs on this machine. That one and the F-F 3.5” one for the metal ramp...make sure you have the correct length. Even though they are different and should not be able to be mixed up... sometimes people make things fit.

#6167 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Wow great work....

The bends aren’t crisp ... but I didn’t care this time around.

#6168 3 years ago

I just finished my last tweaks to the right outlane ball guide. I've sent it to Cliffy and let him have it... although this is such a trivial bit of work he could have turned it out in a millisecond. None the less ... if it's something people want the demand will drive its availability. I'm not going to get in the business of making them... I was going to but I just don't have the bandwidth... sad but true.

#6170 3 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

What issue does this prevent/address?

It does two things...

#1 it stops the ball from missing the outlane switch ... which can happen when it bounces through the outlane. Thereby eliminating the Narrow Escape reward on drain.

#2 aesthetically it fills that void ... Makes it look more like the left outlane.

Small potatoes... but while I was dialing in my game ... it was something that bugged me. There is evidence in the manual that two posts were to be there... but the stainless ball guide looks better IMHO

#6174 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Great idea I'll stop by his house and bug him for one

Yeah someone told me they lived close ... and gave me the idea

#6176 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Ha...do you have drill new holes into the play field ? Sorry I didn't look close enough at the design .... If u didn't want to make and sell them I would have asked for the design template and gave it to Cliff to make (with your permission of course)....

Yes you do. 2 of them. This is something that I had to come to grips with. I think the aesthetic of it beats the hesitation to drill. But it’s certainly a personal issue/choice with this mod.

#6178 3 years ago

Here's the deal on this Narrow Escape fixes...You really have two options here:

+ You can change your micro-switch actuator. This is a non intrusive fix. You have to make sure it is properly aligned in the slot... may require a bit of manipulation of the actuator (no big deal).

+ You can go with the metal ball guide. This does require two screws.

I like the aesthetic of the metal ball guide, it is my preference even though its a permanent more intrusive change.

Or do nothing... no big deal.

Totally up to you.

#6187 3 years ago

I’m working on a new deflector design.

I truly think it has to be a V shape in order to redirect the perpendicular energy inward. I looked at other deflectors and wouldn’t you know it ... on SWEP1 there is a design like this. It has a rubber pad on each side to dampen the momentum. It’s quite a bit larger than the one on Indy so it won’t work as a substitute... bummer.

Mine will be inspired by this design.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-23034
7D145651-F0AF-4DA7-BDAB-0F5F06C07817 (resized).jpeg7D145651-F0AF-4DA7-BDAB-0F5F06C07817 (resized).jpeg

It's a pretty tight space... not much room for improvement, but will see what can be done.

If anyone is interested in testing ... LMK. I don’t really feel like tearing down my machine yet... It took me 2 years to put it back together... the thought taking it apart is depressing.... plus I'm kinda limited on time. I figure I'll get this started because its not terribly complex.

#6189 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m working on a new deflector design.
I truly think it has to be a V shape in order to redirect the perpendicular energy inward. I looked at other deflectors and wouldn’t you know it ... on SWEP1 there is a design like this. It has a rubber pad on each side to dampen the momentum. It’s quite a bit larger than the one on Indy so it won’t work as a substitute... bummer.
Mine will be inspired by this design.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-23034
[quoted image]
It's a pretty tight space... not much room for improvement, but will see what can be done.
If anyone is interested in testing ... LMK. I don’t really feel like tearing down my machine yet... It took me 2 years to put it back together... the thought taking it apart is depressing.... plus I'm kinda limited on time. I figure I'll get this started because its not terribly complex.

Quick draft of my thoughts on this (it is literally a doodle... no numbers)... It will be 16 gauge stainless. I'm going to try and widen it a bit because when it is bent it will pull in some (there is about 1/8" on each side of play)

I've a few sizes of rubber bumpers coming from marco that I'm going to try. I'm hoping they wont be needed but if they work and improve the performance I may just go with them.
ij-deflector (resized).pngij-deflector (resized).png

#6191 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Looks good....are u utilizing the existing mounting holes? Do you think 16 gauge is rigid enough to take a beating? or is the thought that the steel would absorb /deflect upon impact ?

Yes (i will only use two of them) and yes .. the one I have measures out to 16 gauge-ish (it's actually closer to 14 now that I look at it... however I probably will try 16 first just to make it easy to bend).

Due to its angled design it will sit back a bit more than the original... I'm hoping that will be advantageous.

#6193 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I think with the addition of the pads the protector will need to sit back a little. When u get close I can bring the design over to Cliff and have him make up a couple proto types for testing.

I'm going to roll the first few... I will likely have a couple of models to try. Once we've proven the best possible improvement... then we can turn it over. No sense in burdening folks with early prototype work. Still don't have a clue if this will work better... or worse

#6195 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello IJ Owners!
First, I'm super excited that ricochet is making a new deflector! Definitely put me down for 1 when they are in production, as this would eliminate the need for me to use a pad.
Ok so I wanted to provide a quick update. I tracked 150 mode start shots...most of which were fast shots off of the right flipper. Final results were 96% stick rate. However, I decided to inspect the pad at this point and noticed it was tearing. It looked like it had about 50-100 more hits left before it would completely tear. So...not much improvement over the previous pad. I plan to stick with this new one though, as it is smaller, thinner, and blends better...while holding a high % success rate. The ultimate solution is a new deflector that keeps the ball from popping out of the scoop, while at the same time allowing a clean release from it.

I've got two designs done... they don't look like what I had originally planned. Like I suspected... tight space. I've got one with an integrated bumper... (which I like more and more) and one without the bumper. The integrated bumper version uses a williams blue bumper designed for such a thing.

#6197 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Just received my PDI glass from pinballdecals.com...it is very nice. At first I was hesitant given the hefty price tag, but there is very visible improvement in the glare. The pictures don't even do it justice...from up close it's like there is no glass.
In any case...I would only recommend this if you have the money to burn or have questionable eyesight. While I do like it, the improvement is now not as apparent once it is on and in use. It's hard to explain...it looks good and all but in all honesty I don't remember the regular glass looking that bad to begin with. [quoted image]

You get used to PDI glass real quick... You start thinking this is normal... but its not. Any machine I intend on keeping or restoring will get PDI glass. Its one of the priciest and most impactful upgrades IMHO. I actually have more reflection from the play-field onto the back box... I was worried about my LED ColorDMD reflecting onto the glass... I can't even see it and ended up with the opposite problem.

#6203 3 years ago

Just got my last protos in for the lane guide.

They look good and fit well. One issue is that if you have the plastic protector... with the lane guide it prevents it from being distorted to fit under the screw for the apron guide. Normally without the lane guide the end of the plastic can bend under the screw.

Imma gonna shave some off of the lane guide for good measure.

05B2B76F-06E4-4058-BD43-762B0E3394F2 (resized).jpeg05B2B76F-06E4-4058-BD43-762B0E3394F2 (resized).jpeg2D013169-FE72-44FF-9AEB-50BDE55759AD (resized).jpeg2D013169-FE72-44FF-9AEB-50BDE55759AD (resized).jpeg351FD5B7-FA28-4060-B19F-43AFFEF57452 (resized).jpeg351FD5B7-FA28-4060-B19F-43AFFEF57452 (resized).jpeg0B6BA1ED-2DC2-4ED2-B7BF-DC4734C0DA82 (resized).jpeg0B6BA1ED-2DC2-4ED2-B7BF-DC4734C0DA82 (resized).jpeg

#6205 3 years ago

Thanks! I was kind of bummed out it was a little too tall. Technically it's correct... its the plastic protector that creates the interference. I guess I forgot to check that w/proto 1.

#6207 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Now you have to design an enclosed metal box to solve the mode rejects.

I've got two protos in the works... stay tuned.

#6211 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Maybe this is a weird idea: what about mirror polishing? It can create a nice dissapearing illusion.

I can certainly try that for fun !

#6214 3 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

Sorry if I missed it. Are you selling these?

No problem...I won’t be making these but I sent the design to Cliffy. I need to send the update to trim a bit off the top.

#6218 3 years ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Going to give my playfield a full teardown and clean soon, and want to replace the regular bulbs for leds.
Thinking of doing this:
-GI= 2smd warm white frosted lens
-Inserts= 2smd warm white clear flat lens
-Backbox= really not sure what to do with the backbox, I guess warm white but not sure if clear dome/frosted dome/flat lens. Or should I go for a color set (white, red and yellow)?
-Flashers= 10smd wedge flashers cold white (but not sure if they fit in the domes, and 8 smd cold white bajonet flashers
I don't want to distort the art, so any advice if this would work would be appreciated

I’ve found that frosted looks best on inserts as well. I only used clear on the small bonus arrows.

2SMD frosted for back box no color... warm or sunlight.

5SMD towers or incandescents are best for flashers.

#6222 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello IJ Williams Owners -
I'm having a small issue that I cannot figure out and was hoping someone has seen it and can give me some guidance. I was playing a game this evening and during Well of Souls mode I was draining a ton of balls into the ball lock area for the big points. At some point during the barrage of balls that entered into the ball lock, the Ball Trough Assembly (A-16317) didn't release them all to the Idol and the game thought I had balls left that never made it back in play. Apparently the ball(s) were stuck in the tray under the ball lock. After subsequently going into test mode I was able to have the ball(s) that didn't make it through released and all was well again.
But now about every 3rd or 4th ball lock, it doesn't make it's way to the idol. All other times it does though...which is strange to see the inconsistent behavior. Subsequent to the ball not releasing to the pop up area, I can hear the solenoid attempting to pop the ball up over and over again as it expects the ball to have been released. To make matters more entertaining, if its a ball 3 lock, the game gets confused and starts the music and light show multiple times as it thinks the balls should be being released when they are not. Eventually the stuck ball makes its way through, and then the problem repeats after a few more successful ball locks.
What's very odd is that sometimes I hear the solenoid trying to pop up a ball up into the idol even when all balls are all in the bottom trough already or already in play. I even heard the solenoid popping during attract mode a few times right after the problem appeared!
No errors in the program, no issues with the operation of the solenoids in the test menu. All wiring looks clean and intact. I also cleaned both sets of optos in the A-16317 trough. Cycling the power didn't help either. To me this sounds like the optos may be bad? I'll change the fuse tomorrow at F103 and inspect the main driver board for any issues but after those troubleshooting steps I'm out of ideas besides replacing the optos.
Any advice is highly appreciated! Last time I had a weird issue like this it was in the bottom trough and it was solved by performing a ball drop into the bottom trough while in Tests - Switch Edge. I'm hoping it's something simple like that...

On the surface this seems like an optic issue. Either intermittent transmitters, dirty receivers or something with the optic board itself. There are two sets in the trough, one on enter and another on eject. This is of course the captain obvious recommendation

#6224 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Thanks ricochet for helping confirm my thoughts that it is the optos. I luckily had a spare set from Marco’s laying around and I simply tried replacing each of the three sets under the trough area one at a time until finding the culprit. After getting to the ball release solenoid directly under the idol and swapping those optos out the problem has seemed to be eradicated. I will obviously test the hell out of it today but I triggered a well of souls mode and rolled about 10 balls through the ball lock successfully.
This is the second time I’ve had a set of optos fail on me, the other set was on the POA. Is it common for these to fail regularly? I feel like I should have at least a few sets on hand as backup.

It seems that the transmitters run a little hot and they are beginning to show their life span on these pins

When I restored my machine a friend of mine recommended I just go and replace the optos on the assemblies that are a pain to get to once it’s all back together... because they do fail. It was good advice.

#6229 3 years ago

Cliffy now has my right outlane guide! He sent me one !!! He elongated the mounting holes a bit so it gives you a little adjustment.

7140C000-23AF-4F22-A17C-E79348DB7BFD (resized).jpeg7140C000-23AF-4F22-A17C-E79348DB7BFD (resized).jpeg

#6231 3 years ago

Working on proto 1 of the deflector ... blue bumper is an experiment

Not done yet... trying to get the angles right without violating the height limit.

55BC6023-5A16-4980-A112-825F5BA830A9 (resized).jpeg55BC6023-5A16-4980-A112-825F5BA830A9 (resized).jpeg93EFA78E-50D9-415F-BEAC-34B855FA1912 (resized).jpeg93EFA78E-50D9-415F-BEAC-34B855FA1912 (resized).jpeg

#6233 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They look promising....its deceiving how little room there is under there

The one on the left is factory equivalent.

Bending heavy gauge stainless ain’t easy without a heavy duty brake. I’m hoping to get it good enough and then turn it over to be manufactured by someone else

I‘ve considered resigning the entire area ... plastic and all. Hoping not to have to do that.

#6235 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I see where your going on this. Assuming u utilize the existing mounting holes is there enough room for a ball to fit between the blue pad and the play field? I had problems on mine with I used a thicker pad.

Not done yet ... angle isn’t right. It needs to be more acute to work with the bumper... and I’m not sold on the bumper at this point. It will be easy to test with or without it.

#6238 3 years ago
Quoted from Devo10:

If you are willing to remove the plastic, see my post #5860. 100% stick rate, existing part, use existing holes and no need to hassle with fabrication.

I was going to try that when I restored my game but I didn’t want to forfeit the plastic. Something could be done with a custom plastic piece but that ain’t my gig.

#6239 3 years ago

Once you start showing pics ...people get to thinking ... and I appreciate the input.

I’m hoping to be able to make it so it’s just a simple replacement part. The bumper was just a thought ... and I put the hole in the proto to test that thought. There just isn’t enough volume in the space for it... needless to say the setback angle would need to be so acute that using the mounting holes would not be possible. So it’s clearly a no go.

As you can see from these pics ... This is a more practical design. This (hi-Z) is one version of the Z deflector (the hole in the top is a residual from the bumper test... would not be there). I want to try a couple of these with differing upper bends. I’ve a V deflector as well but I’ve my doubts as to the practicality of the bends on that one. I will still give it a go if the Z design is a dud.

Bottom line is I’m after something effective, easy to make and cheap.

765667C7-5107-4A18-868A-2B2C0660897A (resized).jpeg765667C7-5107-4A18-868A-2B2C0660897A (resized).jpeg86316EF1-7DDC-41D3-AE7E-6F23BAD1FB79 (resized).jpeg86316EF1-7DDC-41D3-AE7E-6F23BAD1FB79 (resized).jpeg
35451EAD-CAE6-499F-BE44-3036FA822C6B (resized).jpeg35451EAD-CAE6-499F-BE44-3036FA822C6B (resized).jpeg

#6242 3 years ago

Another Z (lo-Z)

I think I’m going to try these today

0D72DF63-66C3-41C2-953F-C37BCB3BF423 (resized).jpeg0D72DF63-66C3-41C2-953F-C37BCB3BF423 (resized).jpeg

#6246 3 years ago

This one (hi-Z) works PHENOMENALLY !!!

This is a difficult metric to collect. All I can say is that every time I tried to get the shot... from either flipper it stuck!! Random fall-ins during game play or multi ball were not considered.

With the factory deflector ... I could rarely make the shot with the right flipper. In fact I was resigned to just making it with left flipper.

1BB9C3F1-691E-4A97-A4E5-C427BAE5FD6D (resized).jpeg1BB9C3F1-691E-4A97-A4E5-C427BAE5FD6D (resized).jpeg

#6250 3 years ago

Tested lo-Z.... it’s a big fat nope!

Imma gonna leave the hi-Z proto in my machine and play some more.

pinballinreno I like the way you think!

48BFF688-73DA-4CB5-A0C5-40BE7B422C7D (resized).jpeg48BFF688-73DA-4CB5-A0C5-40BE7B422C7D (resized).jpeg

#6253 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Is there enough vertical height to install a foam pad to dampen the shot?

I don’t think so... and I don’t think a foam pad really is a good thing. The stuff breaks down and it’s something you would have to deal with.

I’m going to get a video of it.

#6254 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Reversing the inertia upwards should be enough to kill off the bounce back.

This is precisely why the lo-Z version doesn’t work as well... It doesn’t take much ... like 1/8” vertical to slow it down enough not to pop back.

#6256 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes
Maybe a small lip at the top to keep the ball dropping down vertically, in the case of a high speed rebound off the flipper.

I may do that. I’m going to get a few more cut and I’ll try that.

#6258 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks like a winner!

Yup... I’m going to double check the clearance of the ball and that opto transmitter on the left side of the ramp. I think it’s fine... didn’t witness any problems... I just went back and looked at the pic. The original deflector is forward faced so the optic PCB is behind it.

Like I said I think it’s actually fine... but it needs to be verified, it’s just the angle of the pic makes me

#6262 3 years ago

You can see how it works pretty well in this video

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KskM7QLtdLCRgLpJ9

#6264 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thats exactly how i envisioned it would work.
Now, TAKE MY MONEY!
LOL, good job!

Thank you! I’m going to lengthen the hood a bit (to minimize the ball bashing the plastic) and try with and without a lip... however the basic design is good.

#6266 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

The pinbits plastic protectors extend out a smidge towards the shooter, not sure if you need to take this into account or not.

I’ve got those on my machine ...it’s really not an issue the top of the deflector sits flush with the plastic surface... whether it has a protector or not.

#6270 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Bravo! I go camping for the weekend, only to come back and discover that ricochet has solved one of life's most enduring mysteries. One that has plagued all of mankind for dozens of years.
Now the easy part - invent a time machine, bring this back to the Williams design team in 1993, and BLOW. THEIR. MINDS.

#6273 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I read that too and I thought maybe I was the only one who would notice. Now it’s a stain on this thread forever...

#6275 3 years ago

I want y’all to know that I’ve been playing with the hi-Z deflector and it’s really working very well.

I’ve had a couple of fall-outs but they were attributed to back and forth wobble between the posts (basically the ball never really makes it into the scoop). Every single shot I deliberately attempted at the mode hole stuck! I’ve been waiting for failures and they are just not happening.

I’m gonna to make a couple of protos with the longer hood and send them out to a few folks.

I’ve been working with Cliffy and he has it all set to be made. I’m not the guy to make this type of thing in quantity and with the proper quality control. I can do a few by hand and that’s about it.

I want to try the extended hood before I call it done done. I’m hoping the longer hood will do what I think it will... but you never know... the physics of these things are often times counter intuitive.

#6278 3 years ago

Finally got Cliffy's right outlane guide installed properly... Fits perfect. Closing this one out as done done.

Here are some install pics:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/23TQc1cqutGBnz1A7

I used electrical tape to get the position right... Set the post to far left... and that determined my Y position of the guide... then picked a happy X position by making sure the distance between the switch and the guide was sufficient that the guide will do its job. Cliffy ob-longed the holes a bit which is a nice touch for that adjustment (especially if you have drilled your screw holes a little off-center).

Drilled 1/16" pilot holes (not all the way through... just a bit), counter sunk then secured with two #6's

ij-right-outlane-guide (resized).jpgij-right-outlane-guide (resized).jpg

#6281 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I like it. This thing, it is a good thing.
Now, watch me sweat bullets at the thought of drilling more holes in my playfield.

Didn't phase me one iota, and I honestly thought it would. It just looks (to me) like it should have been there all along so meh... no biggie.

Remove the apron wireform and have a drill bit that is long enough that your drill chuck won't hit anything.

#6285 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Hello Everyone - A new problem reared its ugly head tonight.
In short, when I go to the POA, if I move the mini playfield the switches on the playfield don't register when the ball trips them and it's like the mode just kind of ends. In fact, if I fall through the pit hole it doesn't do the scream noise and it actually will show the cut screen of the snow sledding scene that happens when you trip the microswitch under the mini PF directly in front of the arrow as the ball crosses it. If I do NOT trigger the mini playfield to move at all during the POA mode, the switches trip fine and when the ball drops into the pit, I hear the scream and see the proper video sequence.
Any ideas what is causing the movement of the mini PF to cancel out the mode? The only thing that I did differently is earlier today I had to adjust the metal post slightly at the point the ball drops into the PF because the ball was dropping more to one side (I recently changed the armor the other day and that messed with L/R balance of the machine slightly). Nothing else is different. No errors are showing up. The switches all activate properly in test mode. The mini PF motor works great in test mode.
Please any advice would be appreciated, the game is currently unplayable if I can't rely on the POA to work properly all of a sudden.

Weird... Smells like an intermittent connection. I would snoop around column 7 (green-violet).

#6291 3 years ago

Z-flector proto 2 comes in tomorrow... I will have them made and tested this weekend. Yeah that’s right I’m calling it the “Zee”flector... instead of Deflector ‘cause I’m old and I find punny things funny.

#6293 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Except I'm Canadian, so to me it's the "zed"flector, which doesn't quite have the same ring to it.

Dammit!

Who’s Zed? (what movie?)

#6299 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Agreed. Let's hope he just isn't hit with a copyright strike from the creator of this thing:
amazon.com link »

Hahahah!

#6304 3 years ago

Proto 2 Zflectors are here ... (not Z's yet ) ready for bending and will be sent to beta testers next week!
E749C729-0C20-44CA-9400-61D498D03311 (resized).jpegE749C729-0C20-44CA-9400-61D498D03311 (resized).jpeg

#6306 3 years ago

Not sure why ... but all this bending has made me want to take a nap

82C1F32B-FAA0-4DE3-A0F0-2FDC738F6C10 (resized).jpeg82C1F32B-FAA0-4DE3-A0F0-2FDC738F6C10 (resized).jpeg
#6308 3 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Wow! Backwards S-flectors!

Hahahahahah!

#6310 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They look good....what did you use to bend?

Vise with bending jaws.

#6311 3 years ago

Preliminary tests on the extended hood...

Not as good as the first one with the shorter hood.

I believe the hood is too long and what is happening is the ball is hitting the bottom of the skid and the top of the hood at the same time... essentially making it behave like the original deflector. I think the hood could be extended some ... but I may have gone too far.

This is why we prototype and test.

#6313 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Sounds like it's time for the angle grinder

They are not bent right!

Its working great. I was off on my numbers that I recorded before !!!!!

#6316 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How do I become a beta tester?

You already are you just don’t know it yet

#6317 3 years ago

I must admit... I'm a little bent that I made that mistake on 6 of each protos

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
10,500
Machine - For Sale
Las Vegas, NV
$ 78.50
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Haus
 
$ 123.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
11,250 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Trumansburg, NY
$ 59.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
 
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
 
12,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Wilmington, DE
From: $ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
 
$ 1,059.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 0.00
Lighting - Backbox
Creekside Hideaway, LLC
 
$ 70.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Creekside Hideaway, LLC
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
Wanted
$ 85.00
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 1,419.00
$ 29.00
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 0.00
Playfield - Other
PinJewels
 
$ 59.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
 
$ 12.95
$ 41.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
 
From: $ 10.00
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PFX Pinball Mods
 
$ 1,159.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
584 posts in this topic match your search for posts by Ricochet. You are on page 1 of 3.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Ricochet.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club?tu=Ricochet and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.