Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
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I've gotten the 12 modes 5 or 6 times in one game but I've never gotten the Billion points. I've come close to getting those billion points, I just had to get one lane on the Path of Adventure and I would have completed the Wizard Mode. At least 3 times I've only had that one lane on the Path of Adventure.......................the horror...........the horror.............. 
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Quoted from ab3:Holy crap! Glass on or off 60-70 modes in one game (without the benefit of stacking) must have taken hours. I'm impressed- how open are your outlanes?
Sorry, I need to clarify, the 5 or 6 times were all separate games not all in one game. If that happened....... well, I would be truly the greatest ever. The truth is that I am not.
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Quoted from ataritoday:Hi All,
i recently joined the IJ club as well. So far the machine has been great. I bought a machine that had definitely been on route and well loved. The person I bought it from though did a full shop job on the playfield (not restore), tore it down top to bottom and the game plays like it was new. It also had new decals installed (I was forunate to get a set from BAA when they pop up on occassion). A couple of questions to the group. I want to start doing easy modding and improving some of the visuals. Thoughts on the following:- Anyone ever restore the gun handle ? Any cheaper options then replating ?
I've got a NOS gun handle that is amazing. It's not a cheap option but I would consider selling it.
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My POA seems to work perfectly but I think there might be a trick to hitting the top right rollover. When ever I have a ball ready to enter the POA, this is what I do:
If I want to get the right rollover switches I will tilt the POA all the way to the left when the ball is locked on the post. As soon as the post drops and the ball drops onto the POA I immediately tilt the playfield all the way to the right and the ball gets the right roll overs.
If I want to get the left rollover switches I will do the opposite.
I find if you tilt the playfield opposite to where you want the ball to go, and upon the ball dropping onto the playfield, you immediately tilt the playfield the opposite way the ball goes where you want it.
I know my description is probably pretty bad but it works perfect for me every time. I'll try and get some video up one day to show you what I mean.
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Quoted from rolandthoms:I have stainless steel walls on the POA. Does that mean this was an early production run? A prototype of something else ? Any value difference over other IJs?
My POA also has the stainless steel walls. From what I understand this means you have a sample machine.
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I've been to ELM twice and both times I had a couple of switches left on the POA....... so sad,...... so sad 
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Quoted from Kahanaohana:I got to ELMB and beat it. Second time doing it.
la di freakin da.jpg
JK, nice job.
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Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Went to install colordmd and never thought about my jackpot light board. Can anyone tell me what generation this is, I assume the first given its basic design,..(prototype maybe)??
Quoted from pinballinreno:It looks like a propto or sample.
Are the roms P-1.
I have a similar game and its a proto/sample with red boards and P-1 roms.
It has the jackpot light just like yours in a wooden block.
The only solution is to get the led converted jackpot light, or get the add on jackpot light and do the led fix for it.
Instructions are on the color DMD site.
Its possible that someone sells the adapted jackpot light bar with the skinny LED mod.
I've got a sample IJ with the jackpot light board and I knew I was going to get the color DMD when it came out. You need the LED converted jackpot light as mentioned in the quote above. They are not expensive and once you get it installed it works perfectly with the color DMD. I forget who sells the the LED converted jackpot light but I'm pretty sure it's from a dealer in Britian.
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Quoted from MinusWorlds:Still can't believe that I was able to join the club today. Completely restored IJ. Doug Huse cabinet, CC playfield, Mike Chestnut brass everywhere. You name it and this has it. Tried to pry it from the guy's hands months ago. Didn't want to sell. Then I got the call Wed night. Picked it up today.
I notice your game has the color DMD and the Tilt topper and they both work at the same time. Any idea how they are wired? I only ask because I haven't figured out a way to wire both the DMD and Tilt topper on my game without blowing fuses.
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Quoted from Mike_M:I run a separate power supply inside my IJ for its ColorDMD and PinSound board. Seems to pretty much be a requirement on this game when running multiple extras like Colordmd or tilt topper. Mine just ran for 2 days straight nonstop during show hours at pinfest without a single issue so the separate power supply really seems to make a difference.
Did you bring the separate power to the topper or to the color DMD? Where did you bring the separate power from? Any pictures you could share?
Thanks for your help, I'm trying to figure out how to get both mine running.
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Quoted from beelzeboob:There's a whole thread about Pinsound that I started 2 years back. I have my game wired for stereo and I'm using the reorchestrations that Endprodukt created. There are a ton more callouts and you can customize which ones to use and which ones not. It's fun to hear Indy curse when you lose your ball. And the actual John Williams score in stereo is ridiculous to hear with that game; you'll never be able to play one with the MIDI sounds again.
Order the sound board and PM me with any questions or if you need details.
I'm going to order one today so I'm sure I'll contct you with a few questions. Thanks for your help, it is appreciated.
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Quoted from beelzeboob:Sure. I've got a special place in my heart for Canadians...especially the ones in Alberta. Especially the ones near Moraine Lake, which I visit frequently because it's one of the most beautiful places on Earth. And since I'm a moocher, I always need places to crash when I'm up there, so ask all the questions you want. It won't cost you anything. Really.
Ok, I'll ask questions when they arise and I'm sure they will. Thanks.
PM me next time your in the area. I'll buy beer and burgers, we can shoot some pinball shit.
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Quoted from Mike_M:Here's some detail on my setup. In the first two pictures you can see a standard arcade gaming switched PS installed in my IJ. These can be had NIB for ~$20 on eBay. The AC power supply for the aux PS is provided via the machine's power switch so there is nothing extra to plug in or turn on/off.
I chose a slightly unusual place to connect the 120 volt AC input supply to the aux PS. I did not want to cut any of the original wires or modify the molex plugs that carry the 120 volt AC immediately after it goes through the machine's power switch. However if you follow that wiring you will see that one of the places the switched 120 volt AC power goes is to an unused molex plug near the coin door, which I believe is for a dollar bill acceptor (DBA.) I simply removed the necessary pins from this connector and spliced them into the aux PS input wires; simple enough to remove and return to original in the future if needed.
I ran separate runs of DC power to both the PinSound board and ColorDMD. Probably overkill; I'm sure I could have run a single wire for each rail and split them off in the backbox. Extra wire but I figured it was a cleaner method. The end of each run got a matching molex connector. Notice on the power input for the PinSound board there are two separate pins for +12 and -12; unlike the original IDC connector which simply looped the wires I ran separate lines. Again overkill but I didn't want to jam two wires into a single molex pin.
Nice. I'll get to work on this. Thanks for the pics and description. It's greatly appreciated. I'm sure I'll have a few questions as I proceed.
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Quoted from Damien:In the manual, it shows that the bridge needs to be removed. Does it?
Yes, the bridge needs to be removed to get POA off.
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Quoted from Mike_M:Here's some detail on my setup. In the first two pictures you can see a standard arcade gaming switched PS installed in my IJ. These can be had NIB for ~$20 on eBay. The AC power supply for the aux PS is provided via the machine's power switch so there is nothing extra to plug in or turn on/off.
I chose a slightly unusual place to connect the 120 volt AC input supply to the aux PS. I did not want to cut any of the original wires or modify the molex plugs that carry the 120 volt AC immediately after it goes through the machine's power switch. However if you follow that wiring you will see that one of the places the switched 120 volt AC power goes is to an unused molex plug near the coin door, which I believe is for a dollar bill acceptor (DBA.) I simply removed the necessary pins from this connector and spliced them into the aux PS input wires; simple enough to remove and return to original in the future if needed.
I ran separate runs of DC power to both the PinSound board and ColorDMD. Probably overkill; I'm sure I could have run a single wire for each rail and split them off in the backbox. Extra wire but I figured it was a cleaner method. The end of each run got a matching molex connector. Notice on the power input for the PinSound board there are two separate pins for +12 and -12; unlike the original IDC connector which simply looped the wires I ran separate lines. Again overkill but I didn't want to jam two wires into a single molex pin.
Thanks Mike M, I'm finally getting around to getting my power supply installed and everything wired up. Do you have a picture you could post of the front of your Suzo Happ power supply showing how you wired it up. The picture you had previously posted makes it a little tough to see how everything is wired up and I want to make sure I've got mine wired correctly.
One thing I don't understand is that the Pinsound Board ask for 12 A + and 12 A - for power but the Suzo Happ power supply has 12V 2A + but no 12v 2A-. I'm not an electronics guy so I want to make sure I wire this up correctly and I don't want to blow up anything.
Also, what's the little whit knob on the top of the power supply for? It's an adjustment, but for what?
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Quoted from Averell:Be careful, PinSound-Board should powered at this connector on the left!
I should clarify what I'm trying to do on my IJ. I have:
- Pinsound Board
- Color DMD
- Tilt Topper
- Pinball Pro speakers and sub
Using the Pinsound board, Color DMD and tilt Topper is to much power draw for the machine so I have run an external power source to get everything working.
How do I power the Pinsound Board and the Color DMD using the power supply in the picture below?
Follow up question: Can I use the Pinball Pro speakers with the Stereo 2.1 setup on the Pinsound Board?
Any help would be appreciated.
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Quoted from Rdoyle1978:You can use the Pinball Pro speakers, but unless you have the PinSound Stereo cable, you'll have to re-pin the connector (it's easy to figure out - 3 speakers, 6 wires). Also you'll want to remove the L-PAD entirely, as the bass/treble mix is handled on the PinSound board. For the trouble it takes, it may be worth the $20 just to buy the cable.
I don't have the PinSound Stereo cable, I was just going to make my own. Like you said, it's really easy to do and I have all the materials to do it.
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Quoted from adamross:So I tried playing the game after disconnecting the color DMD to see if it's a power issue and the audio is still dropping out, and when it comes back it sounds like it catches up and plays all the audio it missed when it dropped. But the little I've heard of Endprodukt's work sounds incredible!
You've got your speakers plugged into the wrong jack. Your picture shows your speakers plugged into the J505 WPC-89 spk jack. It should be plugged into the J2 WPC-DCS B.Box jack which is one jack to the left.
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Quoted from adamross:Just to close the loop on my issues, my USB drive was bad, once I switched it out no audio issues. My DMD issues were from a bad ribbon cable. Thanks for everyone's input!
Did you switch your speaker jack to the correct plug too?
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I've got everything on my game up and running again. Added a power source to power the color DMD and now I can run my topper, my color DMD and my Pinsound board all at once without blowing any fuses.
IJ was already my favorite game but Pinsound with the IJ Re orchestration has made this game over the top amazing. Thanks to everyone who helped me get things sorted out on my game. What a great hobby.
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Quoted from KornFreak28:That topper looks incredible! Now I want one
That topper is really excellent. My picture sucks but the topper is one of the better one's I have.
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Quoted from imagamejunky:Is that topper available for sale or did you make it custom?
It's from Tilt Toppers. It's really good. Here ya go:
http://www.tilttopper.com/indiana-jones.html
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Quoted from imagamejunky:Thank you. I can’t believe I hadn’t seen that before. And the price is WAY more reasonable than the overpriced Stern toppers (like the $500 Ghostbusters one that doesn’t do much)
Obviously it’s working on your Williams IJ. On their website it shows it’s made for the Stern IJ. How are you controlling the features/lighting? What is it connected to for control? Or is it always on?
Thanks again
When I bought mine from Tilt Toppers I remember that I was asked if I had Williams IJ or Stern IJ. They had to send you the correct harness for the type of game you had. I'm sot sure if that's still the case or not but you might want to send an email and ask them.
The topper is controlled by power from J117 and it lights up, flickers and has several layers of lighting. It is a really effective light show when it's running, it doesn't just stay on, it is interactive with the playfield lighting.
I agree, I think it's really good value at $240.
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Quoted from Rdoyle1978:He's saying the Crystal Skull movie sucked so he wouldn't put it on his machine. Crystal Skull wasn't made at the time Indy TPA came out
Crystal Skull movie???? What are you talking about. There's only three Indiana Jones Movies.
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Interesting...... are those Blue Ray extra's/deleted scenes from Raiders, Temple of Doom or from The Last Crusade?
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I've got a power issue with my back board GI. The lower half of the back board GI is not illuminated. I'm not getting power to J120-5 (Green, Return, G.I to backbox) and J120-10 (White-Green, 6.8VAC G.I to backbox).
I've checked Fuse 107 which controls the GI Via J120-5 & J120-10 for the lower half of the back board GI and the fuse is fine so it appears that I am not getting power flowing through Fuse 107 .
The only other thing I noticed on the Power Driver Board is that LED 3 (high/low line voltage sensor) is on. According to the manual, it should be off.
I'm not sure where to go from here so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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I just replace my Power Driver Board, Fliptronics Board and both Flipper Opto boards with Rottendog boards and DAMN!!! It's like I have a brand new game. Flipper strength is amazing, lighting on the game is much brighter and the game plays lightning fast.
With the color DMD,new Rottendog boards, Pinsound boards and Endprodukt's mix, Indian Jones is really over the top now. I've owned this game for over 10 years and all this new technology for this game has made it like a brand new game.
I love you IJ Williams 
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Same thing happened with my game too. Left flipper was feeling really weak for the past several years. I tried rebuilding the flippers and new flipper coils. Then I got a new Rottendog Flitornics baord and a new Power Drive board and what a difference. Now I have freakishly strong flippers.Check the fliptronics board in backbox. Mine slowly died out. It was an original. I got a new rottendog and all better since.
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Quoted from Ericpinballfan:1993 was a long time ago. Boards need rebuilding or all new. I did go with all new board set except sound board. Still plan on going pinsound for that one.
Get that Pinsound board for sure. It's an amazing mod for this game.
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Could someone please check their J120 plug and how it's wired? I've got a lower back box light problem and I don't have power going to the lower back box lights.
I've checked the light string with a 9 volt battery and the string of lights work. I have a new Rottendog power board so I don't think that's it. My old board had the same issue. I think the problem occurred several years ago when I had the old board repinned and I just never noticed that the lower lights were out.
My manual says:
J120-3 Yellow
J120-5 Green
J120-9 White Yellow
J120-10 White Green
I have a sample Indiana Jones so I think there might be an error in the manual regarding the wiring of this plug and this is the reason for my lower back box lights not working.
Here's what I currently have wired.
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OK, I've been doing a bunch of testing and reading. I have no power coming to the Green wire J120-10. In fact, I've metered all the combinations on J120 and J121 and the voltage is all at 4.9v and lower. Shouldn't the voltage be reading right around 6.8v off everything?
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Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:Could someone please check their J120 plug and how it's wired? I've got a lower back box light problem and I don't have power going to the lower back box lights.
I've checked the light string with a 9 volt battery and the string of lights work. I have a new Rottendog power board so I don't think that's it. My old board had the same issue. I think the problem occurred several years ago when I had the old board repinned and I just never noticed that the lower lights were out.
My manual says:
J120-3 Yellow
J120-5 Green
J120-9 White Yellow
J120-10 White Green
I have a sample Indiana Jones so I think there might be an error in the manual regarding the wiring of this plug and this is the reason for my lower back box lights not working.
Here's what I currently have wired.
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[quoted image]
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:OK, I've been doing a bunch of testing and reading. I have no power coming to the Green wire J120-10. In fact, I've metered all the combinations on J120 and J121 and the voltage is all at 4.9v and lower. Shouldn't the voltage be reading right around 6.8v off everything?
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I solved the problem today. Everything coming into J115 was replaced with new pins and a new connector. The problem was a burnt wire in the #10 position. Glad to have my Indy 100 % working again with lower backglass lights lights fully operational.
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Screenshot_20180922-193830_Photos (resized).jpgQuoted from jjoravec:Anyone know where I can get a new Translite for IJ? Is there anyone making Repros.
Thanks
I've got a spare. I think it's a repo. I'll pm ya and you can let me know if ya want it..
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Quoted from trumpy:ITS THE STERN ONE ISNT IT
They should call the Stern game "The pinball 'chopping wood' Adventure".
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Quoted from JHPSWE:Send PM if you are interested.
Color your choice
[quoted image]
Could you post a picture with each color mounted to the mini play field? Just so we can compare looks of each set.
How much are these again?
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Quoted from JHPSWE:Sorry for delay. Some test colors
[quoted image]
Thanks for posting the picture. I was actually interested in the yellow set you posted in your pictures in post #3920. The yellow rails with the black graphic on them are what I liked best. Any chance of seeing a picture of that yellow set?
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Quoted from wolfemaaan:Yup, 25. I’m going to get it checks out by some local pros regardless.
So I’m assuming you mean you got a Rottendog and it works great? Did you get it because you had poor flipping hold and it fixed it?
My game is a sample game that had boards that were 25+ years old. A few years back my flippers were getting weak and the game felt sluggish. I replaced the flipper opto board with a Rottendog Board. In fact, I replaced every board on my game and I felt it made a big difference. Flippers became stronger, lights in the game seamed brighter and it just felt like a game that had new life.
Get some new boards and I think you'll notice a big difference in your game.
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Quoted from Energyspike:Just to follow up on the issues I had. The Rottendog board I purchased off of pinside, at a discount, it was described as only powered up twice and he found the issue was with a ribbon cable so did not need the power driver board. I sent the board in for warranty, just got it back and all issues are gone, works 100%. For one, I will only buy new when it comes to power driver boards etc.
Also, Rottendog's customer service was top notch, JRod called me direct and handled it within a day. A big thumbs up for Rottendog...
My IJ has all new Rottendog boards. My game works great and actually seams a great deal livelier since I replace all the old boards with new Rottendog boards.
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"producer Kathleen Kennedy confirmed that her team is still hard at work on Indiana Jones 5"
Oh god, Indiana Jones 5 is gonna bomb huge!!!!!!
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Quoted from 3pinballs:Curious , has anyone updated their speakers with Flipper Fidelity or any other speakers?
If so, is it noticeable difference to even bother? thx
A speaker upgrade makes a difference but Pinsound makes a massive difference. If you do upgrade your speakers, get the Pinsound board with the endprodukt mix (make sure you make a donation to endprodukt). I would skip the speaker upgrade if you don't get the other two. It'll change your game in a big way.
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Quoted from kapsreiter:real glass backglass
perfect print quality, better the the nos translite
[quoted image]
Sorry, but that just looks weird. After 27 years with the original art work, which I'm a huge fan of, this new interpretation is off. JMHO.
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Quoted from Marco1973:Hi Manny65.
Thank you for the help, so for the quick answer.
I will try to explain it better.
Turn on, test, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button...
turn off, test again, freeplay, start play, launch ball, push flipper button.
Left or right button is the same.
Pushing the buttons during demo=> no shut down.
I had the same problem several years ago and it was a power driver board issue. I'm sure there is a way to repair the board and solve the issue causing your problem. I wound up replacing my power driver board with a Rotten Dog board and it fixed my issue. I figured the money spent for a new board would be money well spent. I could have tried to find someone to repair my old board but it would still be a 27 year old board with no guarantee that it would be repairable or have long term reliability so I just bought a new board.
Have a look here, it's $359.99:
https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/RotDogBoards.html
The site even states:
Bally/Williams WPC89 & WPC-S Driver board
"Driver board compatible with Williams WPC89 and WPC-S pinball games with better 5V design to stop low voltage resets".
All the Rottendog boards I bought from have been rock solid in my Indiana Jones game. I replace all the backbox boards in my game with 5 new Rottendog boards and 1 Pinsound board years ago and my game has been rock solid ever since. In fact, once I replaced all my old boards my game felt like a new game and it was noticeably livelier. The new boards made a significant difference. I was pretty impressed that the Rottendog boards worked flawlessly with the Pinsound board.
So you can either repair your old power driver board or get a new one. If you can swing the $359.99 for a new board, I would go that direction.
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20201224_101658 (resized).jpgQuoted from DRDAVE:You need to replace the 5V reg with this:
https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5/
And change out the 100mf capacitor at C4 while you are at it on the same board.
9 times out of 10 this fixes all low 5V problems on these boards without changing out the bridges and big caps
which can be problematic to replace if not done carefully as you can easily pull out the "tubes" which then you'd be into looking at a stitching repair where these solder in.
This is why I bought a new board. My old board might have been simply fixed with a $9 capacitor but I didn't want to deal with the bridges or caps, now or in the future so I just went with a new board. That and I don't have the skill set to make my own board repairs.
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Quoted from pinballinreno:Send your old boards to Chris Hibbler. He does amazing work, It will be like new when you get it back.
I bet Chris would do an excellent job. I guess I factored in the cost to ship my board both ways to Chris (and that ain't cheep when shipping Canada to US then back to Canada) plus Chris's time to make repairs + parts so I figured it would be close to the same price for me in the end.
Since Marco1973 is in Italy, he would have the same shipping costs/considerations.
Either way, a new board or a repaired board by Chris, would be a good solution to Marco1973's issue.
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Quoted from thechakapakuni:[quoted image]
Nothing good about bitching at a pinhead who is trying to produce a product that will improve your game.
What is even worse is posting a god damn cat meme to illustrate your god damn impatience. Yes, you think it's cute........it is not!!!
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Quoted from dmacy:I have an odd issue. I just installed Pinsound in my IJ. I need to unseat the J1 cabinet speaker and reseat it after turning on the game for any bass/having the cabinet (and Polk powered sub) to come on. I have the same set up on my Creature and don’t have this issue. The only difference being IJ is DCS.
Anything I’m missing?
Might be a loose connection or burnt wire in the connector. Replace or redo the connector and that might fix it. Loose or burnt wires on IJ connectors seems to be a pretty common problem. I've a had a few on my game over the years.
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Quoted from SFBP36:Hi all. Just picked up my first IJPA yesterday. Appears to be an early production example. Gonna need some work, but it’s got good bones. Apparently it’s bees sitting in a warehouse for the past 25 years. One battery was just barely starting to leak, but the boards look clean. Happy to be part of the club! Merry Christmas.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You've got an early sample game. You can tell by the stainless steel guides on The Path of Adventure. I've got the same sample game with those same stainless steel guides.
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Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:Wow mine is as a lot further down the road in production. I didn’t know this was a thing. Very cool to know.
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Interesting. It looks like you've replaced all your original boards on your IJ with Rottendog boards. I did the same thing a few years ago and it made a big difference in how my game plays. The new boards changed my game from a sluggish, tired game and brought it back to life big time. Like it was brand new again.
Did you have the same experience?
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Quoted from orlandu81:I know this wasn't a question for me, but I'll give my opinion. Once I noticed my power driver board had low voltage and needed to be capped, I figured I would go the rottendog route to be extra safe and keep my original board in storage. I was so happy with the result that I replaced all of my PCBs with Rottendog boards in the backbox area (pinsound + for the sound board), and couldn't be happier. I still have all of the originals, and have since capped the OG power driver board, but I would rather use the newer boards back there and put the wear on tear on them instead of the old boards.
Pinsound, right. I forget to mention that I used the Pinsound board for the sound board and Rottendog for the other boards on my game. I have all the originals stored in a box but I have never had then rebuilt or recapped.
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Quoted from SFBP36:You bet! Very interesting indeed.
Has anyone had any difficulty installing a color DMD in an early production game with the light board in the speaker panel?
If you are going to install the color DMD you need to get a Jackpot Board such as this one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16824
Since you have the early production light board, the depth of the board and bulbs will not clear the color DMD if you install it but the low profile board offered by Maro specialties is thin enough that it is compatible with a color DMD. You can see in my picture that the color DMD covers the entire area where the jackpot light board sits so you need a thin LED board to be able to fit between the color DMD and the backbox speaker panel
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:Since we’re on the topic of boards. My sound goes out completely on my IJ from time to time. Rebooting the game does usually take care of it. I do have a pinsound board but all the other are original and have not been repaired as far as I can tell. I completely restored my game a couple years ago but never had the boards gone through because everything was working. I just gave them a really good cleaning. Any ideas on what the problem might be?
Sounds like you may have some power issues. I was having power issues (flippers would cause game to reset) with my original boards and that's why I installed a new board. I didn't feel like sending the originals out to be rebuilt so I bought all new boards for the game. I also liked the fact that the new board didn't need batteries so I didn't have to change them out every year.
Even with the new Rottendog boards in place I installed an additional supplemental power source to make sure I had no issues with power requirements for things like the Pinsound board, Color DMD, ect. Everything has worked perfectly for years now.
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Quoted from SiN13:Looking for some advice on 2 issues I've seen with my path of adventure mini playfield after playing a couple games last night. I've seen some other support posts similar to these issues but never could find a clear solution.
Issue 1: Ball will go across the rope bridge, park itself against the post, the post will drop to release it into the mini playfield and about 50% of the time it will just roll on by the drop off and drain out to the left inlane.
Issue 2: When it does drop into the path of adventure and the first target is the first switch on the right, I'll tilt the mini playfield all to the right and when the ball drops down into the mini playfield it doesn't take the right path, it goes left and falls down the first pit.
Both these issues suggest to me that maybe the table is tilted to the left a little too much. I'll need to double check this but I recently just dialed in the table with a leveling app at the bottom of the playfield, 6.5 degree incline with left/right dead center.
Are there rope bridge or mini playfield adjustments I should be doing as well? The metal rope bridge doesn't seem to have a lot of wiggle room to be moved up or down. Another support thread suggested pressing down on it and bending it slightly which doesn't seem great to me.
As far as things brought up in other threads, my post isn't rubbing when it releases. The mini playfield motor set screw is on there tight and the playfield moves smoothly to both left and right extents.
I don't have an answer for your Issue 1 but here's my thoughts on your Issue 2. Based on my experience with my game, this is what I do when my ball is locked and just about to enter the path of adventure.
- If I want the ball to head down the left side of my poa, I'll slightly tilt the poa to the right (just before the ball drops into the poa) and then as the ball drops in and lands on the poa, I'll quickly tilt it all the way over to the left. The ball has to touch the poa, with the poa slightly to the right and just as it lands, I jam it over to the left. I've gotta be quick and my timing is important.
- If I want the ball to head down the right side of the poa, I do the opposite of above.
I don't really understand why I have to do this odd little dance to get the ball down one side or the other but it seems to work for me. Give it a whirl.
QSS
Quoted from AaronZOOM:I overpaid for my IJ back in 2001, buying it for $2300 off of ebay. I was sent a different machine than was in the listing pics, and at the time I felt like I got scammed. There was no Pinside, no local market that I was aware of, and I had no idea about newsgroups like rec.games.pinball. It was the only way I knew how to get my hands on this bucket list pinball machine - shipped from the docks in New Jersey up to Western Canada. Despite a few broken plastics, a lot of built-up grime, and some oddly spray-painted wireforms, the pin was actually in pretty great shape. Not even the dreaded cabinet fade!
Who's laughing now, ebay seller barrywnj?
I bought my NIB Family Guy NIB from barrywnj and I still have the game to this day. I know barry used to get allot of flack about the games he sold back in the day but you gotta admit,if you bought a game from him you probably paid near top dollar for his games but based on my experience, the NIB FG I bought was top notch and there was no issues with the game when it arrived at my home in Alberta,Canada from New Jersey, USA.
QSS
Quoted from Indypin:Congratulations on your Barrywnj purchase, but he did a lot of people wrong.
Years ago my brother bought IJ from Barrywnj thru eBay I believe. When he got the pin, I swear this was the first time I saw my brother get teary eyed over the f****** he received from ole Barry.
The cabinet was in terrible shape and half the pin wasn't working. He put bubble gum stickers (that didn't even belong on the pin or fitted the theme) to the targets. The game wouldn't power up and smelled like cigarette smoke and the idol target was broke as well. The game was also an import.
It was my brother's first purchase as a pin and he didn't know better back in the day. Ole Barry only put (1) picture on eBay and it was so dark it looked like someone was using a flashlight in a dark room in order to take ONE picture of the pin. Again, my brother was a newbie (as I) in the hobby, but he couldn't sell it fast enough to get rid of the lemon.
Yeah, I know allot of deals weren't good with Barry. I guess I got lucky on the NIB Family Guy I bought from him. I wonder how could a NIB purchase go south, right? I may say that but I had a NIB Mustang Premium purchase go south on me a couple of years ago so I know so shit happens. This is pinball....... nothing is a sure thing and I was fortunate with my FG purchase.
QSS
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Why the animosity towards the Rottendog boards? When my OEM IJ power board was failing repeatedly, even after professional repair, I finally swapped it out for a RD board.
That was 16 years ago. Other than having to replace a single transistor once, that board has never let me down.
When I made the swap in 2008 it didn't seem like there were many options out there for replacement, and the RD board absolutely saved me. Yet on Pinside it rarely seems like anyone has anything positive to say. What gives?
I agree with you. I was having power board problems on my game as well along with a variety of other power issues. I replaced my sound board with a Pinsound board along with most of the other boards, including the power driver board, with Rottendog boards. It made an amazing difference and really brought my game back to life. I think that was probably 8 or 9 years ago. I was slightly surprised that the Pinsound board worked with the Rottendog boards without any issues. So far so good.
QSS
Quoted from orlandu81:I'm late to the Rottendog discussion, but for me personally, I have proactively changed out all of the OEM boards for Rottendog replacements to reduce wear on the originals (Pinsound for audio). I have all of the original boards with matching serial numbers wrapped up nicely after I serviced them and they will stay in storage for the time that I own this table, even the original DMD. I never plan on selling Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure, but if unforeseen circumstances happen where I am forced to do so, my thought process was to keep everything, both original and replacement items, in working condition to cater to all potential future owners.
Yup, that's exactly what I did too. All my original IJ boards and the DMD are packed up and safely stored.
QSS
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Canmore, AB
Folsom, CA