Tagging this thread for future reference.

I am going to be joining the club very soon. I am having an Indy sent to me from US to Canada and I am very excited.

Whenever I think of getting a new Pf these are the guys that come to mind before anybody else:
https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields

They might not have Indy on the site, but just email them. They might have one or make it for you.

I think they make a good quality PF. There are videos of them hammering the PF with sledgehammers and the inserts do not crack, nor the clear cracks...Actually nothing really fails terribly...

I am not associated in any ways with them, but I think they deserve a click or two if you are looking to get a PF.
I am in Canada and did not hear anything good about CPR nor Mirco (especially Mirco) so if I was going to do all the work required to swap a PF, I would get the best quality possible. Or try to at least.

Just a thought.

wow, this is inspirational... I am going to be tackling a restoration job this winter I think and aspire to get this kind of result, I hope I can get close!!

I will be getting my Indy in about 10 days and was wondering if you are still selling these? thanks

wonderful, how do I get one?

Oh no. That is too bad. So CPR and Mirco then?

Rmmmh, wonder if these have the same issues GNR has?

This is the only part missing in my kit on my quest for restoring Indy.
Where did you get these?

I know other usint radcals, but not sure I would like the look and feel of those.

It is weird you say it works and then it doesnt.
Can a faulty transistor cause this behaviour ?

Right, to me it sound like either a faulty connection that changes with vibration or heat.
Have you check the connection at the driver board? And I doubt is heat, but maybe the coil is swelling up when hot and expanding putting pressure on the sleeve.

where do you get the opto board?

Thank you. Not sure why I did not look there first.

I think it confused me the fact that it was not being included as the other links were and automatically assumed it was hard to get… not.

Ok, one question though, why is the home pin version not recommended?

I am curious about these and potentially interested since I am about to receive my indy and want to make sure I have everything I need. It is kind of obvious what these do but if you could elaborate, please and thanks!

I am on the same boat as you, with the difference that I am not sending anything off to a restorer, except for maybe clear coating the old playfield and also the new playfield.

I have never attempted a job like this and been thinking of the best way of doing it myself as well.
I had been reading other posts from other people attempting this, there is one that actually gives a lot of information about it so you might find it useful.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration

Ricochet restore is gorgeous, I am aiming for the same quality/standards or would not bother. we will see.

Count me in too please.

looks like out of stock but if someone else spots it in stock elsewhere please let us know. thanks

Hey Will, looks like Marco Specialties has them.

Does anyone have plans to make replicas of a Williams cabinet?

I have access to a a really good cabinet maker with a CNC machine and would like to make replicas, and by this I mean and exact replica of a Williams cabinet.

Please if you could steer me in the right direction as I can see this forum has had very talented people showcasing their restorations, I thought it would be worthwhile to ask.

Once I get the plans, I would like to share this with the person who would be making these - I am contemplating making 3 or 4 at the same time, once I have an estimated cost and that is doable/cost effective.

If there are no plans available then the only option would be to make a copy by taking measurements of everything, which should not be difficult but it could add inaccuracies, specially for the pivot-slide mechanism of the playfield

Thanks in advance.

Thank you this is really helpful. There are some parts that confuse me a bit but I think I understand most of it.
How did you measure the locations for the pivot/slide bracket for the PF?

hehe, it happens.

I am wondering if these should be installed before or after the cab is assembled...

mmmh, do you know how are these installed? I presume they use a jig of some sort to ensure they are parallel to both sides?

I have a drywall square and I thought about it, It is probably the best approach.

Why not measuring from the back?

Does anybody know if there are remakes of the PF lamp board, particularly the big one in the centre? I know Marco Specialties has the the small lamp boards (3 lamps) wondering if there is anybody remaking these?
The lamp board part number is #A-16716-2

Thank you

looking forward to this, if you have a list please add my name to it. I have already contacted you by email a couple of days ago.
thanks!

Has anyone tried these decals:

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/indiana-jones-cabinet-decals.html

I like the idea of having close to original as possible, with that said, Radcals sounds like a good idea, maybe more practical, but has anyone tried those too? I am looking for a honest review of both rather than a biased answer based on what you have....

Thank you, I am not sure wha you meant with HEP thread... what is that...

thanks for these,
are you happy with them?
when you say ink lines on the black, I presume this is a defect? are these very noticeable?

I presume these are not screen printed (or whatever method was used on the originals) are they? Sorry if this is an obvious question...

which leads me to the next question, are these or radicals the only options available?

dammit I do not like the look of these reproductions, I guess they are ok, but If I was going through the trouble of restoring the cab I would want solid colors and not printing lines...

Does anyone have pics handy of what radicals look like? Even though they might seem somewhat 'artificial and glossy' if the printing and detail is better, I might just go that route.

Thank you Ricochet and Kerry_Richard

what an awesome bunch of people in this thread, thank you so much.

Agreed, I think Mirco's decals and radicals are very nice.

I am wondering what the installation of radicals look like, I feel like if you need to cut the edges to match the cabinet edge, it will be harder with the radicals of course having a properly sized cab and properly prepped wood, etc would amplify the margin for any errors...

I need to watch more videos on proper decal installation, I think it is almost always needed to trim the edges?

this is like being a first time home owner and seeing the prices just go up and up while on the sidelines convincing yourself the pricess will go back down because 'the bubble' will burst... you are just pricing yourself out of ever owning something.

That also seems to apply to this hobby too and collectibles in general. Especially when the numbers on games decline due to being sold overseas, restored, imported, exported, etc.

In other words, I think prices will never come down.

some elbow grease and you made some $ there.

this is a very cool group of pinballers! I love reading everybody's posts here, lots of positivity.

On that note, I received my IJ yesterday. Lots to work on and improve on, will need to tune the path of adventure, something is not right and I am also needing to rebuild the flippers and can't play much until that happens first.

On that note, any objections of using Plywood for the base of the cabinet rather than MDF? I presume Williams went the pdf route back in the day to save $ on wood.
I have access to a CNC machine and it is looking like I will be able to pre cut these cabinets and assembling at home and I was thinking of doing all Plywood.
Do MDF bottom or upgrade and go full PLY? what do you guys say? is it sacrilegious to go full ply?

is there a sticky somewhere here on this thread with how to properly adjust the POA? Mine is not working properly and have not started diagnosing yet because I am a bit lost.

If there are no stickies on this thread, I am not sure who has the authority to create them, but since I will be working on my IJ for the next few months I can start gathering these and make stickies if given permissions. Not sure if I am allowed and maybe only the original poster can do it?

definitely interested in replacing all parts as needed, already have an extra motor that is NOS, never used but it has some corrosion on it. I am planning on opening it up and cleaning the gears, the shaft, and relubricate and close it up.

So replace the motor and the OPTO interruptor and that is it?
Who sells this part?

Made some headway on my IJ this week.

Flippers assys, tumbled, polished, one overheated coil replaced, all rewired and extended, made color coded cables matching the manual and added molex to both the EOS and Coils to simplify the upcoming PF swap.
Flippers are strong and work like a charm now.

Some pics of before and after. The assys were disgustingly dirty and one was bent and had to be replaced.

Also a pic of myself testing my crimps with a 20lbs dumbell hanging off a freshly crimp molex connector. This crimp will take more than 20lbs weight. I have also tested 0.062 with the same ‘highly scientific’ test and both crimps take 20lbs weight. I’ll take that!
I am using micro molex for the eos for now and those take up to 10lbs no prob.

I like to use crimps whenerver possible, I findt these very reliable and never had issues.

It took some testing To get to that kind of ‘grip’, whenever I use new crimps I always test the crimp strenght and it never is great off the bat and requires tuning the crimper to a specific torque. It takes me about 10 connectors to get one right, meaning I run 10 tests on spare cable before settling on a crimp. Once I figure this out I document it for later use.

Nerd!!!

Next.

All metals inside the game were polished (I have replacement that are NOS but need work so will work on those later and use these for now.

Path of adventure.
It adjusted, very easy to figure out, just need to remove the motor to clean and lubricate, just have not figured out how to remove it yet but looks like it is held from within the PF?
Please if anyone can help here let me know so I dont waste time re inventing the wheel.

This game will get a new cab I think.
New PF, etc. Decals are orig and are 95% I think, but inside the cab is dirty and dusty, also somebody sprayed some sort of lube that leached onto the bottom panel and it is stained (minor).

I might start a thread for it once I get going, for now I am just focusing on get to play well and debug it.

Sorry for the derail. Love this game! Probably the best pin ever made!
0AE73E69-376A-4826-B040-4995132AF066 (resized).jpeg16127109-FFA8-4A52-B4C6-AECF46F0680D (resized).jpeg5FAC76D1-5160-4975-92F2-22DEF20AAC2D (resized).jpeg601F19E6-FA99-449C-B3B1-CCE54A6D038A (resized).jpeg694B8BB2-CE00-47AE-8E80-3CA7650372BF (resized).jpeg

Just for giggles, haha… this is what a connector looks like after 20lbs. Crimp
Is intact.

Also a pic of my micro crimps. Devil
Is in the details!

Sorry for the derail!

Please help me with the POA motor removal instructions

2922668E-111D-4384-B9E7-59795C9335FE (resized).jpeg

4B5CD47E-2F43-425D-85F8-DB0FBF1884DC (resized).jpeg

B81DFE60-A0CC-4C3D-AC41-63D6C89B1C7B (resized).jpeg

EBB7DA50-C158-481F-994E-9B9350865E4E (resized).jpeg

I got that one loose last night. It had never been touched before it seemed, it was solid but a bit of torque cracked the thread locking off (green). Set screw was unmolested.

Perfect, thanks for this, will take a look later tonight.

Lol.
Not sure why are you guys so afraid of the POA because I have worked on some sterns, and I yet to find a Williams that is as bad or finicky. I dont find Indy very difficult yet.

I recently owned a Stranger Things Premium and that Telekinesis diverter gimmick makes the POA look like childs play.
Poor design and lazy engineering is an understatement in that Stern.

All that to say, I got mine running flawlessly, but I am the minority I think.

Like really the poa is 8 screws with no adjustments. There is nothing to worry about here really.
I did it for the first time yesterday and I was a bit surprised of how simple it was.

I might find some issues soon I am sure, I nust need to see how worn parts are. Will take a better look next time. Maybe tonight or tomorrow.

If you still worry just own a Stern ST premium for 1 month and then report back. Lololol

This!
Also, To be honest you guys in this thread had a bit concern about the poa before getting my game because all I read here were bad news.
Lo and behold, this thing seems easy to work on and the only reason why it would not work properly is neglect it seems.

I cant wait to keep working on the game.
I am jelous of some of the restos I have seen here and I want that for my game

Question about Mirco pf.
Anybody here got one? Is it going to chip off and bubble like GNR pfs?

I have heard of people sanding the clear off and reclearing.
Is the chipping inevitable ???

I got a spare pf at hand, it is NOS but it is bowed and I do not have high hopes that it will flatten but I can try.

true story/sad story…I bought this game sight unseen mostly because of the nos pf…

let me know if anybody here has experience flattening a pf.

The pf has is near mint otherwise which is a shame.

I have more questions but I am trying to not flood the thread with stuff.

Thanks in advance!

Thanks for this, this is what I was thinking as well.
The pf has some twist that is easily corrected as I apply weight on the pf with my hand so I am assuming it will be corrected on its own?

As for the bow, it is perpendicular to the player or in other words, it is from right to left, (shortest side of the pf), And the bow seems to be very consistent top to bottom but a little worse right in the center.
I used a straight edge to check, nothing overly scientific.

I will make my own rails, out of purple wood that I have have had drying for almost 2 years now.
The ones in the game are ok but what the heck let’s get some good rails in there.
I might just get reese’s rails if time is an issue, but I should be ok.

510D8C67-8F3B-4692-915F-EDFC1AED0E66 (resized).jpeg

64FA3B61-730B-47EE-8249-1B5329B59A5B (resized).jpeg

I did actually. I will decide to send this off only when/if I get it straight first.

Sorry to hear.
I dont think I would do a pf swap and risk that. I guess I would just send it off to have it reclear.

That is a very long curing time and I suspect it isnt guaranteed to work… which it could turn into a lot of wasted time to find out it is still pooling after 10 months.

I suspect the clear quality is different du to some restrictions to the type of chemicals available in germany…?

If you still have the original you can easily make one. It is just a piece of plywood with a couple cutouts.
With that said, up until recently, somebody was selling an acrylic version of this on pinside but I do not see the ad anymore, I presume it expired. This person makes these and sells them and I believe Ricochet has one installed in his IJ.
The benefit of the acrylic piece, I think, is that allow you to illuminate the 'lost' plastic from behind the panel?...

With that said, who sells new aprons for IJ?

did you use Spraymax in the rattle can?

wow that is a game changer. I was ready to buy expensive equipment to clear coat my PF, small compressor, paint sprayer gun, etc...
How long does the can lasts once it is activated?

I just happened to stumble on that thread. thanks

Have lots of experience spraying, not worried about that.
It is mostly having/not having the proper space and tools that will most likely see a 1 time use.

I do intend to repaint my kitchen cabinetry so might as well aim for that and have a excuse to set up an improviser booth at home

it seems like I am having an issue with the right flipper.

This coil had to be replaced as it was overheated and swollen and had to be replaced.

However, even with the new coil I noticed the following:

It seems to have a bit less holding power than the left
If I touch the coil, I can feel the current going through it (it sounds stupid but I feel whatever this is, magnetism? no idea, the magnetic field or the current but this is not noticeable on the left flipper.

The holding power is ok, but if a ball comes down at speed I get a micro flip and a huge bounce off the right flipper.

The right coil heats up a lot faster than the left, when on hold. In fact, the left shows no signs of heat when on hold.

EOS is new and adjusted properly, also working on switch test.

The left coil does not have these issues however holding power seems to be about the same and micro flips are not noticeable during play.

last but not least, I tested the right coil WIRED TO the left flipper and the results are the same as described above.

Bad new coil?

double tap by mistake! sorry

Thanks for the replies, as mentioned, the right coil behaves the same way when wired to the left side. That I think eliminates any possibilities of a board issue.

In test mode I noticed the coil does not lift on its own ( IN HOLD TEST ) unless I help it by hand a little.
There is no mechanical interference, the plunger moves freely inside the sleeve, the spring is new in both flipper and it is not overly strong. Everything seems normal there.

In test, the EOS works and I do not think is an issue in this fliptronics era, like it was in Sys11 games.

The other coil lifts on its own (in hold test), and it does not show any issues. Both flippers were rebuilt at the exact time.

My Fluke 87 says 4.5 at power and 125.3 at hold

what gap? Eos gap? They seem to be perfectly set up engaging at 95% of the end of the stroke.

the other is at 129.6

just to clarify, it does not lift when the hold test is being done. The left does, but barely.
Nonetheless, if I give a little help with my hand (this is minimal, as in a VERY gently push) the flipper lifts on its own.

During gameplay holds seems almost equal on both (I have manually tested).

There is not any mechanically wrong, I think, all parts are new including the bushings. nothing is rubbing anywhere. I checked, double check, triple check.

I am guessing this is simply a bad coil? weird thing is I feel the coil drawing power when I touch it whereas the other coil does not have that HUMMM to it.

Sorry bud, it is gapped. I used that tool exactly to do it.

Well, I wired it to the other side and it does the same…
I presume that removes any concerns with the boards

Flipper issue seems solved.
Only time I get I ghost micro flip is when the ball comes back full force from the top of the right ramp, I presume this is normal for this era games? Try it in yours: drop the ball from very top of the right ramp and let the ball land on the right flipper on hold.
My left does the same however it rarely gets hit by a ball like this.

I presume this is just a game nuance. The flippers work great otherwise and the hold is perfect in any other situation.

The humming is gone and it was due to a 0.5 mm gap in between the coil stop and the plunger. It did look like nothing but it was the only thing that came to mind.
In other words the coil had a small wiggle side to side, with that gone, humming gone as well. A new flipper assy was installed to fix this as the other one would not allow to close the gap regardless of what I did the front and rear bracket. All that to say: if a coil seats loose on the assy, get rid of the assy!

yup, I did try bending the stop a bit but it did not do much difference as the assembly was slightly off. I had another assy to switch out with and that was easier than trying to adjust this one.
No pushing by hand was enough to get it closer.
Interesting lesson learned.

I am still curious to know if dropping a ball from the top of the right ramp would trigger a micro flip on your flippers.
Please let me know if someone can try.

new issue detected, sorry, this is going to be ongoing, please advise if I need to take this to a different subforum (tech?)

When pressing the left flipper button, it seems it is triggering 'gun trigger switch' and it shoots a ball.

I do not know yet how to diagnose the switch matrix, I understand these 'somewhat'... but quickly got confused when looking at the matrix on the manual and following the cables supposedly daisy chained...

Now at a quick glance I can see the Flipper OPTO and the GUN trigger are on the same row, however, the OPTO is dedicated... I do not know enough to read this.

Can someone give me a hand?

Yeah exactly, it is just more notorious than in my other games so at first I thought there was something wrong.
Will check the settings about the shooter, thanks for the tip. Weird thing is that it is intermittent and the error report said to check switch 34 (shooter)

So would it be recommended to activate the eos as late as possible then? If it pretty much at the end now, might have a tiny bit more room to give.

perfect, thanks Manny. I double checked my previous work and it was all set up correctly, EOS activating at the very end and only by adjusting the smaller tab. I had forgotten that the leaf adjuster are exactly 1/16" at the tip so you can precisely measure the gap in between contacts! haha I totally forgot about this until I was checking the distance in between them just now.

Manny65 do you know why the tilt bob goes onto the coin door board instead of going to the CPU as per the matrix map?

I am trying to learn how to read these and I understand the matrix is just daisy chained in between columns and rows but I do not understand why the coin door is not mentioned and the tilt bob goes onto the board but in the matrix it says that it goes to the CPU...
What am I missing?

How would I distinguish a dedicated switch when looking at the manual?
I am trying to learn how to read these.

The tilt bob is part of row 4 so I am confused

Are all other switches just daisy chained starting at the cpu?

sorry, I dont want to be rude. I did see this page in the manual.

Can someone explain why the tilt bob does not go to the cpu, instead it goes to the coin door which is marked as row 4 in the connector.
Another member here stated it was a dedicated switch, however, the titl bob is not listed as a dedicated switch… hence, my confusion.

Thanks

I need to resolve mine, it is very frustrating.
Reject is 50/50 or more and eject is random and weak, drives me nutz. Been playing the game by avoiding modes because there is a big chance of draining after ejection, and it can randomly go to the left outlane or often sdtm…

How is the scoup supposed to work under normal operation? I dont remember it being so shitty back in the day. Is the culprit a bad coil or weak arm? Or what.

Someone please, Send some vids of a normal scoop in action please

I am on the list for one. Will definitely get one when it’s my turn.

How fast should the ball be ejected off the scoup? I find the ejection a bit weak? Is it normal?

I had this issue last week, and it turned out it was the out lane switch in front of the gun shorting. It would think a ball is sitting there and it automatically by programming triggers the gun.
I am not sure if this is your issue, it might be something else on the matrix ghosting the trigger, however, I do not think so because it is happening during a mode when no ball is in play...
Looking at the switch on the lane might be worth a shot.

are the planes still being made and sold? I would be interested!

not to take away from the great work done by Ricochet.. I am just wondering if this is legit:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-williams-indiana-jones-1993-saucer-lock-em-kit#post-5852296

The shooter lane, not the outlane…
Did you check that switch?

If you are getting the gun trigger inside a mode, when there are no balls on the playfield, there is nothing triggering the switches to cause a ghost switch…?

in other words I suspect a short is causing it and the only switch that comes to mind is the shooter lane switch.

Unless another switch is stuck/closed?

some of those switches are always closed, mine is like that too, which ones are you referring to?... were you pulling the trigger when you took this pic?

no worries, I am still learning how to read the matrix and been studying it, so helping you also helps me to learn more about it I hope we can figure it out.
I will check mine and compare it to yours. if the trigger isn't pressed I think it looks like it is closed on the test, I will check mine.

Yup that one is a good one, I had seen it last week, it does a good job and It tells you when you have a ghost switch.

I still do not understand the diode function here as in the diagram, the flow of the diode is the opposite as to what is suggested in the vid.

Nonetheless the theory about ghost switches is clear.

I have not had time to look at the game yet.
Is your trigger switch always showing as closed when in test?

That is not how the trigger works I think it is open, then closed when pulling the trigger.

If it is always active or ‘closed’ in the switch test then that is the problem.

When testing, The square for the trigger should only be visible when the trigger is pulled/closed.

Take my money!! Where do I find these???
If not, how can we make aprons? Let’s make a group buy???

With that said, I am making myself a pin2dmd screen following the instructions on pin2dmd, ordering the boards, etc. This is the real deal no half attempt.
Any interest for a group buy of pin2dmd screens? I am in Canada btw.
I could build them and sell them here? Just want to gauge interest.

HarryReimer how did it go with this? the trigger switch should not be closed all the time when the trigger is not being pulled. Did you check your trigger assembly to make sure the switch is installed correctly?

those are not the optos shown on the switch matrix that you are referring to. Those are the hole optos.
The board shown above is Column 9 (mini pf left and right) and the mini pf switch is Column 7 in always closed are the holes in the PF. You have no issues there.

However, because you mentioned the trigger gets 'closed' when no ball is in gameplay, I would also check the connections at the CPU board. The gun trigger is J209. Check for any damage on the cpu board, pay attention to your batteries. Are they leaking onto the board?

Often, VERY often , these issues are caused by the most obvious reasons...

Battery acid will leech onto the board and often also corrode the connectors, these will cause switches to randomly go on/off. Ask me how I know It might be all good really, but you must check this now.

I would also recommend that you watch the video on how to diagnose the matrix again, draw your squares and rectangles based on the information you collect and see if you have a shorted diode.

If you are referring to the PF left right, then you might have an issue with the diodes on that board. It kind of makes sense if you draw a rectangle here you might have to check the diodes the diodes for the optos for switches 94-95-34.

Maybe you can easily disconnect the opto board for the MINI PF and see if that makes the GUN TRIGGER to become open?

thinking out loud here.

could you upload a pic or video, whatever is easier of what you are seeing?

That is not ROW 9, I believe what you are confusing Row 9 with is the dedicated switches column. The closed switches you are seeing are the Centre drop down target, which are closed because the stand up targets (idol) are up. Row 9 does not show in the switch matrix TEST as these are controlled by different boards I believe (still figuring this part out) but I am certain that, that is not row 9.

The gun trigger is showing as closed, that means there is a problem with one of the diodes. Have you manually switched open column 4 to see if the gun trigger is released? one of the always closed switches might be at fault as explained in the video.

The gun trigger must not be CLOSED at all times, only when the trigger is pulled. With that said, what happens when you pull the trigger?

Do you have the manual? I recommend you get it if you do not. It can be download free online.
Page 3-2, please look at the switch matrix and familiarize with it, and you will see ROW 9 is not shown in test.

The optos for Row 9 have their own testing within the menu and that is for the mini PF and the Idol and these switches are not tested from the matrix test.

If you do not want to believe me, simply go into TEST and push the drop down targets down. Then report back

I am not sure why row 9 is shown as part of the matrix in the manual, but it is not shown in the test. Maybe someone else can explain this.

You need to figure out why the trigger shows as closed on TEST, it should not. Here is a pic of my test matrix and you can see the trigger is not closed, unless you pull the trigger.
IMG_6356 (resized).jpegScreen Shot 2021-08-16 at 12.58.41 PM (resized).png

Sorry I am very confused.
you do have a glaring issue, the gun switch is CLOSED in your matrix when you are not pulling the trigger and it should not be.

possibly he took the picture with the PF in service position and that would affect the location of the ball in through?

make sure the diode is oriented properly as well.

I dont want to say 'I told you so'.... but....

oh I wish I had something like this closer to me.

It was posted in a forum, in france, many years ago. Most likely a small run made by a pinballer there.

We need to come up with something and get these made? Anybody with connections to have these fabricated?

Well, my poa bridge driver board went Kaput.

It looks like it has seen better days. It has been repaired before by a blind operator or while taking a ride on a rollercoaster?

Anyway, capacitor C3 leaked all over the board and some components. Cleaned with alcohol.

Is it worth repairing it or should I just get a new board? I get the feeling it might be repairable but maybe it is time for a new board?

I WANT THIS!

I like it, it looks cool however, I would be concerned that is the apron might bend after continuously pulling it up, it has too many cutouts and Indiana Jones horseback riding is held to the apron by two tiny pieces of metal by the horse hoofs... maybe I am over thinking it, but I would probably skip the lights and the cutouts for just laser embossing and maybe have that painted instead?

It is beautiful no doubt, but I am worried about the longevity of it.
I sent this person a message on FB but there are SEVERAL people with the same name in Italy. I chose the one with pinball machines on his photos, lol, so I might have gotten the right one.

will see what he says, maybe he has different options/designs.

curious about this!
Also, another mod. I had mentioned it a few posts ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/62016

I was thinking a matrix issue but then you said 'sometimes and not always', so it could be anything in the realm of pinball, lol...
I would do a quick switch test on that area and see if you can replicate the issue, take a look at the map on the screen and see if you see switch 11 close up when you are manually activating the others.

mmmh, how is the connector at the CPU?

yes but why is it dropping when going over the roll over.

if the connector is corroded, if could cause issues like this. check the connector, if the actual metal connector is green (inside the molex and not the actual female connector on the board), it is corroded. you will need to get close up to see it.

Next, with the game in test, give power to the solenoids (with your door switch pressed on) and throw a ball to replicate the issues and tells us what you see.

wondering what kind of difference is lighting can you achieve in this game with the GI board?
I do not remember the game with incandescents, because I played with those 30 years ago, lol... and it was also pretty bright in the arcade I played it so I never got to see the light effects...

I have LEDs in my game now, and the flashers ... well... I dont remember the game flashing like that, so I am wondering if this is because it is supposed to pulse rather than flashing? the backbox is also all LED and it is a disco in there now...

Very curious to see if this can be improved.

I am over 6.5 degrees and have no problems making the ramp... it fact, I make the ramp very comfortably.
My flippers are new but before that with really bad flippers I could still make the ramp well.
I am wondering if you might have the EOS engaging a little bit too soon and losing flipper power...?

I use an angle finder, one of those to set up a table saw. I find a graphic on the PF that is square with the side, usually just above the flippers and set up all my games for 6.5/6.7 degrees. anything else is too slow for me.

unless the sleeve is tight inside the coil you do not need a new coil, you might need everything else new but not the coil. Sometimes I change them out if the previous owner had the soldering skills of a chimpanzee and are unsightly, my OCD does not allow me to sleep at night knowing I have that under the PF...but otherwise, just rebuild - keep the coils.

I had to bend the bridge for the ball to drop consistently into the poa. It would sometimes skip it otherwise.