Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
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Hello!
I just joined the club 2 days ago! This machine is the real deal!
I got a couple of questions hopefully someone can help me:
Do any of you have the issue of the ball getting stuck under the left ramp and right behind the mode start hole? What is the best way to minimize this?
The green airplane lights: When are they supposed to turn on and how can they be replaced or fixed? Thanks!
Quoted from Jgaltr56:You may be missing the metal deflector behind the mode saucer. Some people take it out because the ball can bounce off it and not stay in the saucer.
Well the metal for the saucer is there. I meant right behind the saucer on the other side there is a "wall" where the ball just completely stops
Quoted from dmacy:For the ball getting stuck back there I've rarely had this. Mine is setup relatively steep though. Maybe try that and make sure you're good and level side to side.
Plane lights: do you mean the red LED's? Pretty sure they go off when you do ramps back to back. Maybe other times too.
Good tip!
Quoted from FlippyD:Welcome to the club!
Now about your problem. Incline is the easiest and quickest fix, should be at least 6.5 degrees. Could also be that your playfield, rubbers, and balls are too dirty. I used to have balls get stuck their occasionally but since the last time I shopped the pin and changed the balls it hasn't happened.
Also, how lively are your pop bumpers? If they don't kick the ball around much it might not get enough inertia to travel down the playfield.
Thanks! Pop bumpers are extremely strong. But I will follow your advice and wax the area.
I also needed to ask about the center drop targets. I need to replace one drop target (worn out) How do I remove the board? Just remove the C-clips? Thanks!
I need advice on how to remove these bulbs from the main lamp board please. I removed the board last night and they will NOT come out. I could even hear them starting to crack. The socket is sooo tight they will not come out. I tried holding the socket and pulling out and wiggling them and that didn't work. I feel that If I pull with more force the board might crack or break. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!
Quoted from FlippyD:I took the whole mech out once to put in a Cliffy protector. That was a long time ago, I don't remember exactly what you do but I recall it wasn't overly complicated. If you still can't figure it out and aren't getting more answers in here, try posting a topic in the general tech forums. The drop target design is pretty much the same between games of that era.
Thanks a lot!
This happens like one out of 20 times but What is the best way to remedy this? The switch and post work perfect but sometimes the ball hits the post so hard, it bounces off and gets "stuck" on top of the switch arm. Wiggling the machine makes the ball move again but has Anybody dealt with this before? Do I need to lower or bend the arm of the switch? Thanks!
Quoted from PeterG:Shouldn't your ramp be steeper? So that the ball will always come down to the post? As soon as the post is removed, gravity needs to do his part to get the ball on the mini-playfield.
Thats is exactly what I was thinking. But the ramp is screwed to the back panel. How do I make it steeper? Again, this only happens once in a blue moon. The ball hits the post and bounces off of it and it gets caught
Quoted from FlippyD:Just adjust the switch. Bend it so its not sticking out of the switch hole as much. Should be the only adjustment you need to make.
Thanks, I will try that
Anybody know the switch part number for the switch that activates the post for the POA? Its the rollover switch right before the up and down post. Its not listed in the manual. Thanks!
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I just found that you can test the green airplane's lights in the tests--#5. flasher tests--#24. Plane/super ball test. I noticed them being on when the dogfight gun sounds are happening.
Thanks! Yes you are correct
Let me ask you guys something: When you play a game and for example you lock 2 balls during that game. Then you drain and the game is over. When you start another game, and you lock a ball (2 balls are in the idol from the first game) Instead of a ball popping up in the shooter lane, the idol just spits a ball from the 2 that were left in the idol from the previous game. Is that normal behavior?
Are the 2 locked balls in the Idol from the first game supposed to drain before the start of a second game? Thanks
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I believe that's an adjustable setting. Something about Idol ball lock. I saw that in the features adjustments.
I'll check it out thanks!
Quoted from Astropin:Mine acts just like yours.....but I never checked the settings. Might have to do that. I think I would prefer to start from scratch each game.
I just looked at the manual and you can adjust this setting.
Quoted from dmacy:That's how mine works (ball lock) with factory and most recent ROMS.
And when you refer to green lights: are you referring to the green flashers or the red ones on the plane? Assuming your ones in your plane are red? All the IJ's I've seen had the red LED's in the plane itself but maybe there were different versions?
My plane has red leds...
Quoted from Astropin:But apparently there is a setting adjustment you can make so it does just that.
I adjusted it last night
Quoted from dmacy:This is where I was trying to understand. Plane lights to me are the red LED's. He meant the green ramp flashers. Just trying to clear it up.
Sorry guys...When I said "The green airplane lights" I meant to say, the lights on the green airplane. Well green and grey airplane. Never meant to say "green lights" Sorry!
Quoted from dmacy:No worries Korn! I was starting to think I had something different.
I need a little help (again) I'm rebuilding the 3-bank drop targets. I need to know if retaining clips and springs are neededon the bottom? When I opened it the right target on the bottom had a retaining clip on but not the other 2. Is that supposed to be there? Or just on the top? Thanks
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:I was getting too many fly balls so I made this protector for the drops. Thought I'd share it -- works like a dream. Just bought a sheet at the hardware store and cut it down, ground the corners, drilled some holes and no more balls to the outlane! Made one for the right ramp as well.
Can you show us a picture but playfield level? Just to see how it looks. Thanks
Quoted from robertg130:My IJ,all cab redone,pin is a beauty just need some leds and mods
And the fn start mode hole fix
How do you plan on fixing the mode start hole?
Quoted from robertg130:Well,I first put washers on the screws to make hole more deep,this help just a little,still lots of missing shots,maybe foam in the scoop?
Heard it helps
Can anybody PLEASE take a picture of the nuts that hold the gun in place from inside the cabinet? I need to see what type of nuts are used. Thanks!
Quoted from Astropin:Here you go. Looks like one of the most common sizes used in pinball:
Are they covered in nylon or plastic inside? Thank you!!!!!!!
Quoted from Guinnesstime:I have 1 of the "3 Bank" drop targets that only goes down part way after hitting it. It kind of "slides", then it will full fall with vibration. Just a spring issue?
I just took mine apart and I installed all new parts on it. Most likely its just the spring you need to replace. I had the same issue. Good idea to pull apart and replace all the parts but If you don't feel like doing that just replace the sping first
Do any of you have the ball spilling off to the side on the left ramp instead of just dropping down the inlane? It happens to me 1 out of every 10 times but it does happen. Especially if the ball is traveling super fast down the ramp. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
Quoted from deanearp:Yes, I had this happening after I shopped mine and put it back together. Mine was doing it because the nut holding the ramp down at the bumper plastic (you can see it in your last picture) was not tightened down enough--I was afraid of cracking the plastic so had gone on the loose side of tight. After tightening it down, I did 1/2 turns at a time, played if still doing it, the another half turn until it was not doing it any more and the plastic did not crack. Putting a fender washer under the plastic was also helpful to spread out the force from tightening it down. If you need some pics of mine, let me know and I'll get them to you later today. Since tightening it down, I have not had it happen once.
Oh man! This is good news! Thank you very much! Yes can you post a pic of yours? Thanks!!!!
Quoted from deanearp:Putting a fender washer at that spot is probably a good idea anyway to protect the plastic from pinball strikes.
Excellent point. Will do. Thanks!
Quoted from FlippyD:I had this happen about 10% of the time and no amount of adjusting the wireform position or the nut tightness would fix it.
I added a tiny clear silicone ring to the end and it acts as a brake. I had to cut the ring to get it on and it stays just fine. 100% success, no more outlane jumps. I put one on the other side too since I liked the way it stopped the balls and made the inlane ball speed very consistent.
Ok you mean you added the ring to the nut? Or to the ramp? If so, exactly where did you place the ring? Can you please post a pic? What kind size of silicone ring did you use? Thanks so much!!
Quoted from FlippyD:Can't post pictures won't be at my machine for a few days. The rubber gets added to the ramp itself at the very end of it, like a train bumper at the end of the tracks. The balls slide down the ramp then bump into it which kills all their speed and spin. Then they just drop down gently into your inlane. I used the smallest rubber rings I could find, 7/16 or 3/8 diameter will work, just snip them in one spot so they can slide over the wire form.
How did you manage to put it on the ramp? Did you glue it? Thanks!!
Quoted from FlippyD:Yes! And actually now that I think about it you don't need to cut the rubbers... I did that cause I tried to put them somewhere else first. Just stick em on the 'fork prongs' at the end of the ramp and you'll never have balls jump the lane again.
Also they just need to slip on a bit, you don't need to push them far up the prong.
And looks like there's a little damage on the wood where the balls drop. This is coming, have it mine too, but with this fix the balls will fall much more gently and reduce further damage over time.
You're a good man! Thanks!!!!
Quoted from Fremen:Hi Everyone. after many years of saving and several months of looking, i finally purchased my first pin ever, beloved Indiana Jones! i have really been working on it the last few weeks and am ready to purchase a color display. My question to yall:
- Color DMD offers an LCD and LED display. I really do not know which one to order. Can anyone give me some insight? Thank you so much!
Color DMD LCD
Quoted from FlippyD:Yes! And actually now that I think about it you don't need to cut the rubbers... I did that cause I tried to put them somewhere else first. Just stick em on the 'fork prongs' at the end of the ramp and you'll never have balls jump the lane again.
Also they just need to slip on a bit, you don't need to push them far up the prong.
And looks like there's a little damage on the wood where the balls drop. This is normal, have it on mine too, but with this fix the balls will fall much more gently and reduce further damage over time.
Just wanted to let you know that your solution worked like a CHARM! No more balls spilling to the side anymore! Thanks buddy!
Quoted from Astropin:I like to backhand that shot from the left flipper. Goes in softer.
Do you do early back hand or late back hand?
Quoted from gismo31:hi folks, i'm cleaning my indy up . everything is fine except the bumper lightning ? no way to get these work. in fact, all the upper part has no light. any advice ? thanks !
Blown fuse
Quoted from gismo31:checked them again : all are fine
tried to switch j121 and j120 : same result : no lithning in the upper part of the playfield.
Did you take them all out of the game to to test them with your DMM?
Quoted from gismo31:here is all you need : http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/ij2/shop/IJRestore.doc
Thanks!
Quoted from lanfeust:Yes, you need to remove it.
Ok so basically I just remove the c clip and the allen screw on the back and slide out correct?
Quoted from Fremen:Hello everyone. I have a technical problem and need some advice. The gate at the top of the right ramp that opens to allow ball to go to Upper Playfield is not working properly. When i light ADVENTURE or do a mode start that is supposed to open the gate (Steal the Stones or 3 Challenges), the gate will open for a few seconds and then will close prematurely. The more games i play, the quicker the gate seems to close prematurely. Has anyone had this problem and have any advice on where to start? Thank you!
Test it in test mode and see if it works. Report back
Hello!
Anybody here know the part number for the coil tubing for the diverter gate coil? It's not listed in the manual. Thanks!
Quoted from Skypilot:On the table as we speak.
Looks NICE!!!!! 
Can you share more pics? Thanks!!!
Quoted from Fremen:Thank you for response. The diverter hold and power solenoids are #33 and 34. To be honest i have been confused by the solenoid test. When i run the solenoid test, i run a repeat and run mode. I never hear any of the solenoids buzzing or doing anything but it does cycle through all of them without stopping. Not sure if i am supposed to watch the coils when i run test to look for something...
A few days ago, i tried to thoroughly check and clean each connection associated with those two solenoids, both around the coil and their connectors in the backbox. Since then the gate has worked much better but it will still close prematurely every few games. It is strange, when it does close prematurely, it does so a little at a time over a few seconds. I guess overall it does not affect the game too much, but still bugs me. Probably best to pay some money and have someone look at it for me.
You need to close the interlock switch on the coin door in order to activate the solenoids. You can push it in (close it) with your fingers while you run the tests. Put it in repeat on the solenoid you want to test. Report back
Quoted from Skypilot:Every other Tuesday.
Man! That looks amazing!!! Congrats!!! Brass or Gold plate?
Quoted from Skypilot:Brass on the conventional parts and s sent everything else out to Chris Royalty for chrome. Nickel plating on the mechs
Congrats! Looks really nice! Is this a customer's pin or yours?
Quoted from Fremen:well dont i feel a little silly. So, nothing seems to happen when i repeat the diverter hold, solenoid #34. Diverter power #33 seems to work fine. does that mean that i need to consider that the coil is bad? according to the manual #33 and #34 are coil #FL-11753-1, does that mean that both the diverter power and hold run off the same coil?
Let me check mine.....
Quoted from Fremen:well dont i feel a little silly. So, nothing seems to happen when i repeat the diverter hold, solenoid #34. Diverter power #33 seems to work fine. does that mean that i need to consider that the coil is bad? according to the manual #33 and #34 are coil #FL-11753-1, does that mean that both the diverter power and hold run off the same coil?
Is this what you have on the screen? If so, the diverter should move when you close the interlock switch on the coin door.
Diverter hold should not move. That is the coil holding the diverter closed. If that is what you have then your coil is good.
Quoted from Fremen:yes that is what i have on the screen. with #33 diverter power set to repeat, the gate will open and close. with #34 diverter hold set on repeat, nothing happens, the gate just stays closed. is that what it is supposed to do during that test?
Yes your tests are good.
So what is your issue again?
Quoted from Fremen:well, the gate will occassionally close prematurely, sometimes when path of adventure is lit and sometimes during one of the two challenges that open the gate. it is strange, it will not close quickly but slowly over a few seconds and a little at a time. it seems to happen at random times though i feel like it happens when the game is working on something else at same time (like multiball or dogfight, etc). It did get better after i thoroughly cleaned the connections and optos associted with the gate and flippers. oh well, i imagine i have done what i can and will get someone to look at it eventually. Thank you again for all the help in ruling alot of things out.
If your tests are good then I think your problem is the coil spring. It might me worn out and extremely loose. Try replacing it with a new one. Marco Specialties has them. Change both, the coil plunger with the little spring and the coil spring, both pictured. Might be a good idea to completely replace all parts including coil tubing, and coil stop. Clean everything in the process. I'm sure that will take care of your issue. Parts are cheap. No need to hire a tech in my opinion. If you need help replacing all those parts, let me know and I can help you. This is the only way you are going to learn. Good luck!
Hello,
Just a quick question: After all the friends are lit at the INDY rollovers and you get the "extra ball lit" prompt at the saucer hole, all your friends are flashing....but if you happen to get the ball up there and keep going at the INDY rollovers, I have noticed that some Friends stay flashing and some just stay lit but not flashing.
Why is this? Again, this is after lighting all 5 friends for an extra ball. Arent all the friends supposed to start all over again? Instead of some flashing and some not flashing but ON?
Hope I didn't confuse you but that Is the best I can explain it. Thanks!
Quoted from Bos98:Joined the club on Wednesday and have been working on Indy since. I am now just waiting on parts to deal with the POA and decals to arrive. Everything else has been cleaned and fixed and I am hoping to have it back together and playing within the week, time permitting.
You should move the mode start saucer strike plate back now that you have the chance
Quoted from leaffan67:Korn. The friends flash until u make them solid by making lit loops. They light via the inlanes. Make all 5 friends solid and build and collect loop jackpot. This is one of the cool alternate goals in the game!
Thanks! The thing is that after I light all of them they all flash at the same time, then if I continue hitting the rollover lanes (after lighting all of them) makes a few friends solid but not all of them....the rest keep flashing....is that normal? Thanks!
Quoted from Bos98:Can you provide a bit more detail on doing that? How far? Maybe a photo?
Thank you!
Yes, behind the strike plate there is a rail correct? Install this rail, then move the strike plate as far back possible without going past this rail. Pretty much the strike plate should be right next to this rail. Remember don't go past this rail underneath. All you have to do is screw this strike plate as far back as possible without going past this rail. The idea is to let the ball have more room to land in the hole. Post pics of your current strike plate holes.
Mark a straight line in each of the current 3 holes where the screws go into and just make a new holes further back. Use a small drill bit, (don't make the holes too big) just enough for the screws to go in. There are lots of pictures out there. Just search "Indiana Jones Strike Plate" and you should get lots of info on and pics on this issue. This has to be done in order for you to truly enjoy IJ. Good luck
George
Quoted from leaffan67:Korn. They go solid when u make a full loop shot but only when the loop shot has a flashing arrow insert. U light a flashing arrow via the opposite in lane or ramp (which ends by rolling over the inlane).
Each lit loop made makes one friend solid and the rest flash til u get 5 lit loops completed. Then u get to loop jackpot. U can boost loop jackpot higher by making more loops before hitting the right ramp.
Thanks so much!!!
Quoted from leaffan67:Korn. They go solid when u make a full loop shot but only when the loop shot has a flashing arrow insert. U light a flashing arrow via the opposite in lane or ramp (which ends by rolling over the inlane).
Each lit loop made makes one friend solid and the rest flash til u get 5 lit loops completed. Then u get to loop jackpot. U can boost loop jackpot higher by making more loops before hitting the right ramp.
Do they get solid in any particular order when doing the loop shots?
Going back to the strike plate issue: This works for a lot of people and for some people the foam method works best. All I'm saying is this, move the strike plate back now that you have your playfield torn apart. If it works (most likely) then great. Is it doesn't, then you can simply add the foam and problem solved.
If your playfield wasn't torn apart already, I would recommend doing the foam method first because it could save you a lot of work and time and you avoid doing all the work by simply adding foam and lowering the saucer hole.
The foam method saves you a lot of work and time and its worth a try. But since you have your playfield torn apart, just move the plate back now since you already did all the hard work. If it doesn't work for you (most likely will) then you can add the foam and lower the saucer hole as a last resort. Good luck
Quoted from leaffan67:Korn, it doesn't matter which friends light in what order. I am reconsidering one thing I said tho. I got the loop jackpot twice today. I now don't think u can increase it before collecting it once the ramp is lit for loop jackpot. Tho I thought so. Maybe needs some glass off research! One of mine was 40 million and one was 100 million. It might be the total value of the loops u made before finishing the friends?
Cool! Thanks a lot!
Quoted from jedimastermatt:Pinsound makes a great game perfect. I can't imagine playing it without one now.
BTW - you could always brave the wilds of Adventureland to get your IJ fix until then.
What does the pinsound board add to the game? Sounds like something I might want to try if its that good. Thanks!
Quoted from PeterG:Pinsound is awesome. I did my IJ and upgraded the speakers. Very easy job! You can go with a set or just add your own. I only did the woofer. It really makes a huge different.
Short video of an awesone mix!!! The mix is not mine.
» YouTube video
Wow! What a difference! Thanks!!!
Quoted from PeterG:I put a Visaton subwoofer in the cabinet. Makes a huge difference. Specs are Visaton VISATON W 200/8 Ω 50 W 8 Ω
I think you can buy something similar in the US.
Put the stereo kit from pinsound on there and you are ready to go.
Thanks! 
Would target foam work for the strike plate issue?
I just removed my strike plate to see if the foam method works best. The only issue is that, upon testing with a ball by hand, the ball does seem to jump A LOT when it hits the hole to the point that it sometimes crosses the rail and goes back there! I'm afraid this would make the ball hit the POA during game play. Does this happen to any of you? Thanks!
Quoted from beelzeboob:I'm tired of saying this, so I'll just quote myself from now on.
If Chris at HEP couldn't figure out a solution to the scoop rejection problem, neither will anybody else. Use the above advice that I'm getting tired of repeating and never worry about it again.
Ok, I did take it completely out but thanks to you guys I just found out I've been missing the platic above the saucer hole all this time! WOW! I never noticed it since it gets covered by the POA!
So I have to buy this plastic (part number please?) Then just add drop dead foam to the back and to the plastic and I'm done correct? Can you at least take a picture inside the saucer hole? Thanks!
George
Quoted from Djshakes:It's amazing the amount of discussion this topics gets. I have only had and IJ for two weeks an was able to remedy and forget the problem.
1. Remove plate.
2. Place foam on back rail.
3. Add tape under cliffy
4. Enjoy play
If you can't take apart the mini playfield you have no business owning an IJ. You don't even need to remove it, just move it to the side to get at the mode hole. It is a simple process.
I'm literally tempted to make a tutorial on youtube even though I have already done mine just to kill this topic.
Please do! I don't want to mess this up....
Quoted from Djshakes:It's amazing the amount of discussion this topics gets. I have only had and IJ for two weeks an was able to remedy and forget the problem.
1. Remove plate.
2. Place foam on back rail.
3. Add tape under cliffy
4. Enjoy play
If you can't take apart the mini playfield you have no business owning an IJ. You don't even need to remove it, just move it to the side to get at the mode hole. It is a simple process.
I'm literally tempted to make a tutorial on youtube even though I have already done mine just to kill this topic.
Add tape under the cliffy? Do I have to add a cliffy to make this work? A little confused sorry man....
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Thanks for pic of cliffy! Im no expert but it looks like you need the strike plate to hold it.
No problem, I'm just confused because supposedly you have to remove the plate and then add tape to the cliffy? Hopefully djshakes can chime in soon....
Quoted from beelzeboob:No reason to suffer. Get some 3M 467MP Adhesive tape from the wonderful people at PinRestore (pick up a bunch of other great stuff as well) and coat the entire underside of your Cliffy. It's what Cliff uses on the front lip of the Cliffy already, anyway. Stick it on, trim around the Cliffy with an Xacto knife, and reapply. Voila! Scroll down on this page to find it, and look around their site. It's helped me numerous times.
http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Would sticking tape under the cliffy raise it up and not be completely flush with the hole?
Is a cliffy absolutely necessary to fix this issue? Can the dead foam alone fix this?
Quoted from Dr-Willy:a cliffy is not necessary at all, its a personal preference.
Yes but with the strike plate removed the only way to place a cliffy there is with tape correct? Would the tape raise the cliffy and make it not be flush with the hole?
Quoted from Dr-Willy:the tape wont raise it anymore then it already would be, the cliffy comes with some tape on the front half, you are just adding more to the back half to really make sure it doesnt move without the strike plate holding it down.
What tape should I use please?
Quoted from Dr-Willy:In the link boob provided.
Isn't that tape for the back rail/wall to slow the ball down?
Quoted from beelzeboob:Dr. Willy...I'm-a gonna let you take this one from here. I think I just ran out of Xanax.
LOL! Thanks for advise on removing the strike plate man!
Quoted from Djshakes:The cliffy is an option. I bought cliffys before I knew of this mode hole issue. If you have a cliffy the strike plate holds it down, when you remove the plate u need another method to hold cliffy in place. I recently bought mirror blades and they come with thin two sided tape. Any hardware store should have this. Apply it to cliffy if you are using one. The tape is thin so it will fit flush. If not using a cliffy, ignore. Remove the strike plate, put foamy two way tape our some sort of cushion on rail behind. Put the playfield plastic back. It is held on by two screws in the front. Go on eBay and type in Indiana Jones mode hole plastic and one will pop up most likely. You don't need to modify the plastic by putting foam shit under it that looks guady as shit.
Thanks for the explanation! I will follow this instructions to the letter.
Do I really have to lower the saucer hole in order for this to work?
Quoted from Dr-Willy:all good ill get these guys set straight
Thanks for the link! On the foam for the rail, did you also put foam on the side rail or just on the back rail? Thanks!!!
Quoted from Djshakes:I don't know, I just did it. I'll get some pics tonight after wife goes to bed.
That would be awesome! Thank you sir!
Quoted from Djshakes:Okay, here are pics. Your manual tells how to remove mini playfield. As you can see I have two way tape in back. I bought a blue bumper pad from pinball life maybe I'll use in future. The tape works fine now. Washers are standard size. You can see I tried the elongated holes on my plate. Didn't work and it's going in the trash after this post
So you are using the double sided tape for the back...I already ordered the tape from pinbits as suggested by beelzeboob 
Why are you using double sided tape for the back tho?
I'm sure both works just fine. So, what about the blue pad? I got one of those. Would that work as well? Thanks for the pics! Meanwhile, since I'm doing this major shop job, I decided to install the lost plastic! What a difference huh?
Quoted from beelzeboob:To be clear: It was dead drop foam from Pinbits, and the double-sided tape to hold down a Cliffy (which is a misnomer because it's all like one sheet of adhesive) is from Pinrestore.com.
Yes sir! I ordered just that. Not installing the cliffy this time. Just waiting for it to arrive along with the mode plastic.
Guys do any of you know what size and type of screw goes into the captive ball cage? I'm looking for the screw that goes on top on the backpanel. It holds the cage in place. I just noticed that I'm missing it. Tried some other screws on the back panel but they are too short and I honestly don't know if they are 6-32 or whatever. Thanks for everything! You guys rock! Thank you for your patience!
Quoted from paynemic:I don't have a Clift on my mode start hole but I was wondering if you could just use the original screws that hole the stop plate to hold the cliffy down without the plate there? Maybe a little foam on them.
But the ball will be hitting them and jumping all over the place I assume. The ball will get nicked I assume. May not be a good Idea if you ask me.....
Quoted from Djshakes:I hear you. I'm neurotic and don't stop till it's finished. Working till 2am up at 5am. It's a serious problem. Searching for shit during work, researching issues, etc. Sometimes I think I need to sell them all before I get divorced or lose my job. No joke, I often think to myself, this is what addiction feels like. I know it's wrong, I just can't stop. Doesn't help that my machines have to be perfect. Every bulb. That's hard to do with pinball but somehow I managed on five machines.
Good thing you mention this. Maybe you can help me by telling me the correct size and type of screw for the captive ball cage? Please see post 1305. Thanks!
Quoted from Djshakes:Isn't it the same as the three that attach the bridge to the back? Take one out and see. If so, take it to hardware store. They look identical on mine.
On mine, those are too small. I'll just try the hardware store I guess. Thanks!
Quoted from Djshakes:You mean short? I'll look at mine tomorrow.
Yeah too short sorry. Thanks!
Quoted from dmacy:I think so but you're right in the sense that most of the light is concentrated at the rope bridge plastic. You won't see much light being that the rope bridge plastic blocks it too.
Close up and from players perspective. I personally prefer it but it doesn't give you a highlight of the lost plastic.
Oh man! That sure look nice tho! Is the light you have the same one I posted the pic of? How does it actually hook up and how is it secured to the panel? Thanks!
Quoted from dmacy:I think I got it from Marco but maybe was Pinbits. Either way, a little searching and here's the Pinbits one: https://mrtn.smugmug.com/Photos/Pinball/2010-02-14/n-G4stB/i-GjvccRr
I sent you the same link in a PM.
Thank you so much!
Quoted from Mike_M:I had my POA off for adjustments this weekend so I used that opportunity to remove the mode start saucer strike plate as has been suggested. I had previously been loath to change anything on the mode start saucer as my game had always been fairly reliable. Recently though I have noticed that bounce outs have been occurring more often. As beelzeboob and others have said this fix appears to work perfectly; no bounce outs since I made the change. I do miss that satifying "thunk" sound the strike plate made though.
Since I had some dead drop foam I added I piece to the back as well as the left side. Not sure the left side was really necessary.
Good for you! Did you have any issues getting it perfectly leveled?
Btw, Do you remember if the POA's 3 harnesses connect to the same colored wires on the bottom harnesses?
I forgot to take pictures of the POA harnesses and I noticed that on the right ramp, the connections didn't necessarily connect to same colored wires/harness. But I did take a picture of those. I just wanted to make sure before I reconnect the POA. If you happen to have a pic, can you please post it? Thanks!
Quoted from Mike_M:I came to the realization that there is no level adjustment for the POA; the shaft and collar are keyed with a flat side and if the set screw is going to remain tightly secured it can really only be tightened directly over the flat. With that in mind I stopped worrying about having the POA perfectly level when I tightened the set screw. I did make sure the opto interrupter bar was centered in-between the two optos first though. It does look slightly off level at rest- to the right... but it plays absolutely perfectly now. 100% reliable. The only other thing I did was move the Jackpot plastic forward (by moving the left screw to the next screw hole and slightly bending it forward) since the POA seemed to hit it when it was turned all the way to the right.
Sorry- don't have pictures of those harnesses- let me know if you have trouble and I'll lift the playfield to take a look.
Thanks so much for that info! Yeah, Please take a pic next time you lift the playfield. Just to be on the safe side. Thanks a lot!
Quoted from Mike_M:Here's some pics of the harnesses- all the colors match so it should be easy to differentiate between the 2 6-pin connectors.
Here's some pics after I adjusted my Jackpot plastic so the POA would not hit it:
Notice that the left side of the jackpot plastic is now screwed into the forward screw hole so it is at a slight angle. I also slightly bent the plastic's vertical metal frame forward to move it further away from the POA.In this picture the POA is all the way to the left. It's close, but the POA is no longer hitting the jackpot plastic.
Finally, I have found that use of the pictured lubricant will ensure optimal playing conditions:
Thank you! Enjoy!
Quoted from dmacy:I had my speaker panel out so I was able to confirm: I do have the Marco board and it comes with spacers and screws that you install. The wiring is two connectors that go on your power driver board in empty spaces. You may be able to zoom in on my photo to see which ones.
I would suggest that you use shorter spacers as well as shorter screws as you can tell it sits a bit high. The white trim is what I did to mask light coming into the ColorDMD LCD. I did fit the LED one in today and it fits without in the way of the jackpot board. It also looks better IMHO.
Thank you for that! Actually, I was talking about the light that mounts on the back panel where the "lost plastic" goes. The lamp board that lights the bridge. But this is also great information as I plan on adding this light too in the near future. Thanks!
Quoted from Djshakes:Has anyone had issues with their three bank drop target solenoid being unable to lift the targets? I recently swapped out my drop targets for the lit target mod. They worked fine all day yesterday and towards the end of the day they were struggling to lift. You would hear the solenoid fire but it didn't have enough power to raise the targets. I realigned the bracket to make sure they weren't catching on the playfield. They raise now during play but it seems the solenoid has to fire twice. I will hear it fire, you can see the targets twitch and then after it fires again the targets pop up. Do the solenoids get weak over time?
I did a full 3-bank drop target upgrade a few months ago. My middle target would not stay up. Turns out it needed a need target (replaced all 3 of them) and also had a bend lift plate. I decided to replace every single part (including brand new springs) since I had the whole assembly out of the game. Put everything back in the game and sure enough, My targets would not engage, the coil would fire a couple of times to get them to stay up but they wouldn't. Turns out the new springs were SUPER tight. Put the old springs back in and problem solved! My 3 bank drop targets work perfectly now. Maybe something you might want to look at.
Quoted from Djshakes:Thanks, now that you mention it I put a strong spring in the single drop and it wouldn't pull it up. Maybe I can swap out the three bank with flipper springs, they might be weaker.
Yes, that should take care of your issue. Either a flipper spring or just use one of the old springs you took out from the 3 bank drop targets. That's what I did. Works like a charm! You can probably change springs without having to remove the whole assembly. Let us know if it worked out for you. Good luck!
Quoted from Djshakes:Swapped the springs, works like a charm. Someone else asked me to post pics of my lit drops. See below. They are good quality construction wise. The light looks more like a mode hole light as it is more lit at the bottom as opposed to lighting up the whole drop target. Thought maybe the whole drop target would glow. I took the pic to with all the lights in the room off and no flash. Maybe I should try pulling the GI light out from behind the drop on the left. Overall they are cool.
I'm completely shopping out mine. Not done yet. Added color matching titan competition rings and replaced all star posts with new color matching posts. Added color matching titan post rubber, Installed lost plastic, removed the strike plate at the mode hole and added dead foam around the hole, all ramps including idol getting brass plated, replaced red lane dividers with yellow lane dividers, metal ball guides regrained, added inner cab decals and lots more! Not done yet...I'll post more pics later! Here's some pics....
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Quoted from Djshakes:Try polishing those ramps first. I was going to have mine plated and I polished with brass cleaner and they came out great. Save money. Also, order some skinny post rubber for your poa ramp. It's a bitch to hit and it opens it up a bit. Still a tough shot.
Too late, ramps are almost done. Great tip on the post rubber! Yes, verrrry tough shot. Not done with the complete shop out yet.
Might sell the game in the near future. Whoever buys this game is going to buy one hell of a game.
Honestly The game didn't need all these upgrades. It all started when I decided to remove the strike plate (A necessary evil in order to fully enjoy the game) I decided to keep on going and going and never stopped! Lol. Been wanting to Brass plate the idol for a long time. I love IJ, Not in a rush to sell it, but it will be in the Market Place in the near future.
Quoted from Mike_M:Upper left corner, over the "jackpot return ramp." I can shoot a picture of it when I get home.
Yes please do, Thanks!
Quoted from woody76:before and after pics of the gold chrome idol plating.
[email protected]
http://www.pinballplatingandmore.com
Which one is mine?
Quoted from Clnilsen:I'm going through an IJ and trying to figure out if I have some missing pieces related to the ball diverter in the upper right ramp.
I looked at the a-16301 diagram on 2-33 of the manual, and I do have that coil that the diverter arm connects to.
What seems funky is that the arm just seems floppy-floppy (technical term) with no resistance in either direction. It also didn't seem to "return" to a certain position (like I would expect a flipper to do). In other words, I can flip it back and forth, and it will stay wherever I put it.
Finally, the bottom of the guide seems like it is grinding on the bottom of the ramp. It seem a like there should be some kind of bushing between the ramp and the arm?
I'm not sure how this is supposed to normally operate, but this doesn't seem like it is as it is supposed to be.
You need the spring for it.
Quoted from Lermods:It's not a complicated game, POA is easy to remove and work on, challenge is getting it just right.
About that....What sort of adjustment can you make to it other than the allen screw on the motor shaft? I would really like to know....
The rest is pretty much just screwed to the playfield.
Quoted from Astropin:You can also add a couple washers to the front screws (the end closer to you). This helps a ton if you have the game closer to 7 degree tilt and I find IJ plays best near that angle. Shallower and balls tend to fly off the left ramp.
You mean to the frame that holds the POA? Mine lacks just a hair (almost nothing but significant enough to affect the ball) of tilt to the left. The right side works great.
Quoted from Astropin:You add them where the POA attaches to the playfield in the front. You are raising the front of the POA a little to counteract the playfield angle. On mine when I increased the incline to 7 degrees the POA became too fast to control the ball at all. Couple of regular washers (four total) on the front attachments fixed the issue. So you end up with a playfield at 7 degrees and a POA at 6-6.5 degrees.
Very nice tip sir! Thanks!!!
Quoted from Fremen:howdy yall. need some advice. In order to make the mode saucer shot stick better, i removed the back strike plate. The problem is, the diode on the switch for that mini right hole gets bent every so often and has to adjusted or replaced. Does anyone have a good suggestion on how to protect that diode?
The diode for the saucer hole? Mini right hole?
Quoted from Fremen:yes, the switch diode from the right lower mini. it hangs just over the entrance to mode saucer ally and occassionally will get struck and bent like this...
You should solder it away from where the ball can hit it. Not sure if you have done that already tho
Quoted from cosmokramer:My Mother-In-Law sewed them up for me, they really came out nice. She sewed strong magnets into the sides to grab the back box hinges...I m just waiting for her to finish a wider one with a pocket for the gun handle to cover Indy...
Just waiting for a Jaws LE...
Ask her how much each. I would buy some
Quoted from Davi:Hi Scott,
Drop a mail to Karin ([email protected]).
I hope she can help you, I've purchased one gate lock few weeks ago from her.
Good luck!
I need one also, how do you remove and install the pin that secures it tho?
Quoted from pinballinreno:With a flat nosed punch and a firm surface.
Same thing to remove it I assume?
For those of you who have restored IJ, I have a couple of questions. I'm currently restoring mine and I need to know if the ball trough housing needs to be clear coated. I sanded it clean, and looks perfect, but I assume that removes the zinc coating or what ever coating or protection it has from the factory. Should I spray some clear coat on it to prevent corrosion?
Also, 2 of the many coil brackets have this thick film on them. The films were in bad shape so I removed them. But now I wonder if they need to be replaced with new? Can't find them anywhere. The manual has a part number for them. Are they some sort of insulation or protection? What would happen if I left the bracket without it?
Thanks!
Quoted from Damien:Anywhere in particular I should check? I disconnect the molex from the gun, and when I test the end going into the machine, it shows activity on Switch 44.
Open the gun assembly and adjust the switch. Also, replace the spring inside for good measure.
Quoted from Averell:And this is the only one solution to prevent the switch matrix for short circuit.
Also you can see the hole protector and the modified ball deflector to catch the balls much more better then before.
Looks nice! What did you use to protect the switch? Thanks!
Quoted from mtbpinball:I didn't really keep track of my time. I've been working on it on and off for a couple weeks -and still have to reassemble everything. Putting the decals on is actually the quickest part. Taking everything apart -stripping the cabinet decals -preparing the cabinet and getting it ready for the decal takes quite a while. My guess is I'll have 30 plus hours in it but I'm not very fast. I'm sure there are people that do it much faster.
Nice job! Did you apply the decals with the cabinet fully assembled and sitting on the cart? Or Did you Remove the head from the cabinet and set them on the ground to apply the decals?
I would like to know if applying decals without disassembling the cabinet (I already removed my side rails) is even possible. I know the long cabinet side decals might be difficult to install if the cabinet is not sitting on the ground.
Quoted from paynemic:You totally can do that. The only real trick I think would be you'd need to do something with the backbox (hinge bolts would need to be removed).
Be sure to run some black paint (or at a minimum I've seen people use sharpie marker) down all the edges before you put on the decals. And good luck making the pillars on the front corners line up. I think some new sets are modified to fit correctly, but mine weren't.
Why is that so difficult in your opinion? Where did get your decals from? Thanks!
Quoted from paynemic:It's been so long I don't remember where I got the decals from. But the originals were different sizes on the columns on the front. They literally made it so there was no correct answer where it all lined up.
Good to know! Thanks!
Quoted from beelzeboob:The problem is that you put WAY too much foam around the left side. It should only go in a U around the back of the hole...you shouldn't be able to see it from the player's perspective at all. You see where the foam is actually hanging over the lip of the hole? Trim it just behind there so that there's no overlap...and add a little on the right side wall as well - there's nothing to stop the ball rattling around over there. You just want to pad BEHIND the hole in case it overshoots...that way it hits the foam, which deadens the velocity and helps the ball drop into the hole.
By "right side wall" do you mean the side where the ball guide is at? I'm restoring my IJ and caught this just in time, Thanks!
Btw, Did you put foam on the "roof" of the mode start plastic?
Quoted from beelzeboob:No foam on the roof, and good catch on the ball guide. Perhaps you don't need it on the right side (although for some reason I remember putting it there, but not on the ball guide). But you definitely have to start it back far enough where it's not hanging over the hole.
Great! I also made the same mistake of putting way too much foam around the left side wall. Thanks for the tip!
Quoted from Averell:Here's my solution for all your problems... no foam is needed.
First drill the left and right hole of the bracket and use cage nuts.
This will increase the stability and you will have no more broken wood in that area top of the playfield.Next use the same sheet metal from the hole behind the drop targets and modify it like that it's fits under the plastic... you just have to change the angle a little bit.
This bent sheet metal is the secret.If needed use a cliffy protector to save fringe range of the hole top of the playfield.
Next mount the plastic with some washers to get more distance to the surface.
Beneath of the POA protect the switch with a small bracket.
I promise 8 of 10 shots will be catched into the mode hole and your switch matrix is safe against short circuit.
This makes Indy much more playable without having trouble.
Did you buy the switch bracket? Where?
Quoted from Averell:No, the switch bracket is selfmade and it fits perfect to the mounting holes of the switch.
You should sell some
Quoted from beelzeboob:You. Don't. Need. It.
He says the ball sticks with all that stuff 8 of 10 times. Mine sticks all the time with just the foam backing and no strike plate...and I have it set to 7.5 degrees (if not a touch more).
I thought he was talking about a protector for the POA switch that constantly (for some) gets hit by the ball creating all sorts of trouble. 
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Does anyone have any pictures of a cointaker light kit. I'm looking to get one for an indy and i cant seem to find any examples. Pinballbulbs kit looks great though
So you already have an Indy? 
Quoted from Mrawesome44:I got one in the works. All goes well ill be picking it up friday
Awesome news man! Congrats!
If I was to add Pinsound, Do I have to option of going back to original sound between games? Or is Pinsound pretty much "permanent" once installed? I would like the freedom of switching from Pinsound to original sound between games, but not sure if that's an option with Pinsound. Is it difficult to install? Thanks!
Quoted from Averell:You can switch between different sound sets presumed original wav and custom wav are installed.
Sorry but What do you mean by "presumed original wav and custom wav are installed?" I thought you get the whole package with the Pinsound board? Do I have to download or install additional stuff? Thanks
Quoted from PeterG:You can have multiple mixes on the USB. The original one, the enhanced one or the movie faithfull, etc. you can switch between these mixes easily. But trust me, once you have downloaded a good mix, you do not want to go back.
Nice! So you download the mixes to a usb, just what I needed to know. Do you get new callouts with Pinsound?
Quoted from Averell:Especially for Indy there's only one useful mix available, of course unofficial and no more available on public Websites - thank you Rick.
This mix is a masterpiece of reorchestration and hocks your Indy into another dimesion of Music and Sound.
Looks like I'm getting one! 
Anybody know what the trick is to perfectly apply the right ramp decal? I'm restoring my IJ and last night I removed the old decal, got rid of the residual glue with Goo Gone, and cleaned the ramp with Novus 1. Then I aligned the new decal with painter's tape. I peeled off the top half and used a squeegee to apply pressure and prevent any bubbles from forming. Then I Did the bottom half.
To my surprise, the decal had all sorts of lines and tiny bubbles all over! Ran the squeegee again several times over the decal to see If I could get rid of the lines and bubbles but most of them were still there. Didn't like the results and removed the decal. Will be ordering another one today. Is there a trick to applying these decals to make them look factory and flawless? Will the lines and bubbles disappear over time?
Thanks!
Quoted from beelzeboob:I've never had a problem with this (I think I did it on Congo and POTC). I just applied it freehand, no squeegee, and everything was fine. I would say that maybe it was because of the chemicals you used and you didn't allow sufficient time to dry before applying? I know with cabinet decals, you have to wait 2 weeks after painting or you'll get bubbles. I don't think you have to wait that long after what you did, but that might have caused the bubbles. Don't know about the lines, though...
What do you suggest? Soap and water and let dry for a couple of hours? Thanks Boob!
Quoted from beelzeboob:Warm white LEDs in all the inserts and flashers, incandescent bulbs in the GI and backbox. It keeps the retro feel of the game and you don't have to go digging around to change insert bulbs...especially on the POA, which is a PITA.
What makes it such a PITA to change the POA bulbs? Is it the accessibility aspect of it? Are the sockets too tight? I got mine torn apart and will be adding LED's to it.
Quoted from beelzeboob:Yes...just getting under there is a PITA. Can you imagine doing it for each bulb? And then you have to tweak the playfield pitch just perfectly which is time consuming in itself.
I can see why it would be a major PITA if the POA is not removed from the game. I got mine in pieces since I sent both the POA and the Playfield for a complete restoration. Hopefully that makes it easier for me to install the LED's
Quoted from beelzeboob:No...I meant getting under there, which meant removing the POA. You'll see when you put it back in how tough it is to tweak the angle just right so the ball can go down every lane.
Gotcha. Playfield should arrive by next week. Hopefully the assembly is not too complicated. I'll post some pics along the way
Quoted from beelzeboob:There are two ways to do it.
Trial and error.
I'm not shittin...you have to spend some time with it using a ball to see how it drops onto that playfield, adjusting the bent metal piece to center the ball drop, then tweaking the left right angle by playing games and seeing if you can access every lane from the ball drop. It's a very exact thing and it ain't easy. The most frustrating thing about IJ, IMO. Along with the mode hole bounce outs, that is.
Oh boy, I had mine just perfect before I started the restoration. I thought for sure that by taking lots of pics, marking everything and putting it all back together exactly the way it was, I wouldn't have any issues with the POA......I guess not 
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:PPS, if out. Give Rick a call. Best authorized,quality from him. I know because thats whats on my machine.
Awesome! Thanks!
Quoted from PeterG:Otherwise across the pond - https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/indiana-jones-williams-pinball-cabinet-decals/
Put an LED screen in my IJ yesterday. Looks great since it perfect fits with the jackpot board. Great to see some color. Played a game and was real good, only one shot from the end game.....grrrrrr. Funny to see when you change something to your machine and get to play a casual game it always is one of the great games you ever played.
Nice price! Are these silk screened originals? Thanks!
Quoted from PeterG:Probably not originals, but I hear good things about them. Friend of mine has some for Mousin around, they look great! There is a thread about these, it also includes the owner of the firm so you can address any questions to him directly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-decals-from-retro-refurbs
I'll check it out, Thanks!!!
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:No offense tp Retrorefurbs and his decals...
Ive had 3 sets from across pond now and not exactly thrilled with what i received. Bttf was the wrong dark blue and fuzzy printing. Mousin around was the wrong xolor blue to, and edges were not clean. Gilligans island was also not top notch quality, more of a vinyl sticker than a true cabinet decal. He provides a nitch for titles that are hard to find, but hes off the grid and not authorized maket of these.
Only wayne in Austrlia who has some, and Planetary Pinball supply in sparks neveda are the official Bally williams distributor. On an A list machine that commands top dollar, i wouldnt buy from retro in england.
Just my opinion.
Very well said. Thanks!
Anybody know what this clear sticker is for? I found some while rebuilding my coil mechs. They are really worn out and I would like to replace them. Problem is, I can't find them anywhere! I don't even know what they are for. Is it some sort of protector? Insulation? What happens if I don't replace it? Can i use Mylar instead? Thanks!
Quoted from Skypilot:same here
Well it's in the manual. Look at number 9 "insulator" on both mechs
Quoted from Averell:You're right, and I can see it in the picture in the drawing, but I didn't use it.
Before disassembling there was no sticker and I wonder about of what it's used for?
Maybe to reduce virbrations that damage the opto electronic?
Or just to reduce noise of coil stop?
I use small rubbers to reduce vibration of coil and balls at the card cage.
I wish I knew. I guess they are not really necessary? I'll put some mylar just to be on the safe side
Quoted from pingod:Just got my custom painted planes installed.
Fit in nicely with the painted ruins.
Just waiting on my Black Nickle gun,and idol to come back.
Then need to put on the brass trim,call her done
Dude!!! That looks sick!!! Who painted them? How did you incorporate Dr. Jones?
Quoted from pingod:spinny-vinny on here painted them up for me,he found the figure for the plane as well.
He does custom painting or shooter rods,custom made pinball parts.
I want to do the same to my planes. Is that just like the movie?
Quoted from pingod:As close as he could get,minor changes I think.
Way better then the original planes for sure.
That's for sure!
Quoted from pingod:Painted
Getting my planes ready to have them painted. Need to remove the harness from the fighter plane. I have never done any soldering ( or desoldering for that matter) on any circuit board(s) before.
I really don't want to damage this tiny little guy. Is soldering on boards pretty much the same as soldering wire to wire or wire to lamp socket? Is there a risk of damaging the board? Is there a trick to this? Thanks!
Quoted from Pinzap:That does look nice. Were any paint touchups required also? or only clear coat? I need to disassemble mine and get it cleared, but I think I need a few touchups, but mostly just around the keylines of some of the inserts. Per Vid's guide, I'm assuming all the inserts would need to be checked and glued, etc, though I don't think any are coming up.
Yes, the clear coat is just perfect. Not sure if he did any paint touchups yet but if he did, they are very hard to notice
Quoted from beelzeboob:I think the wood grain is sprayed on...there's probably more painted there than you think. He did my Jacks Open, and the wood grain was painted so well I didn't even realize it was fake. Really nice work! If you have a before picture you'd be able to tell.
Pic before it shipped to HSA
I don't mind it at all actually. Honestly, it Looks a lot nicer in person. It's all getting covered anyway. Brian did a fantastic job on the inserts as well. The playfield had several ghosting inserts. Brian worked his magic on them and they turned out quite nicely. I'll post some close ups soon
For those of you that have a clear coated IJ playfield...What (brad point) drill bit sizes are the most commonly used to drill out the clear? I need to drill out each hole to begin my assembly. Most of them are pretty tiny. Took a trip to Lowe's and Home Depot but the only Brad point drill bits they had were way too big for this project. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Quoted from beelzeboob:There are special bits that I bought from Ron Kruzman - very fine diamond headed sanding-type drill bits that relieve the clear without chipping or doing damage. I would contact him and he'll sell you a set (I think it was only $10 or $15) and give you priceless advice to boot. kruzman is his Pinside handle, I think.
I can tell you that my Jacks Open looks amazing reassembled, and NOBODY notices that the wood grain is fake. Once you have all of the plastics and everything on, hardly any of it is exposed enough to the player to look fake.
Thanks for the tip!
Quoted from Skypilot:I have been using this for years. It cuts the clear in a downward pressure,This alleviates any pulling or tearing,
Looks like a neat tool. I assume there are several sizes for each different hole just like the drill bits? What's the name of this tool? Thanks!
Quoted from Skypilot:I use it to cut through the clear only. I use it on all screw-holes in the play field. If I need to drill a hole I will use a conventional bit second.
Great info Skypilot! I'm getting really scared now. This is my first clear coated playfield and I really really don't want to screw it up. I just noticed the pop bumper holes have a lot of clear around them. Not sure if the tool you suggest or a brad drill bit should be used. Others suggest a dremmel stone....so confused 
By the way, here is HSA's link to the before and after pics
http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa072417indyjonespair.html#grid
I was under the impression that I only needed to drill out the clear inside the hole only? Not remove clear on the top of the hole like Skypilot did on that hole
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ron Kruzman recommends removing the clear all around screws and posts with small diamond dremel bits (that he sells for this purpose) or a very sharp countersink, or brand new american made brad tipped bits.
Then apply thin CA glue (with a fine syringe) to the exposed areas to firm up the wood and glue down any clearcoat edges.
This technique will avoid ghosting or cracking of the clear when screws and posts are tightened up.
Clearcoat can be rock hard in a lot of cases and not bend or flex when screws and posts are applied.
If the clear wont flex it will crack a little where pressure was applied.
It doesnt always happen but its worth mentioning.
Newly coated playfields have a little give to the clearcoat, ghosting is minimized.
5 year old coated playfields can be rock hard, ghosting can happen.
Ron admits he is a little Anal about this but he maybe right when it comes to one of a kind playfields and expensive restorations.
Thanks for the tip! I'm buying Ron's kit today. I'm also buying his glue kit. Is the glue supposed to be injected between the wood and the clear or anywhere the clear is exposed after drilling?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes, be careful with the glue, dont let it drip anywhere that you might see it. Although acetone should remove ca glue and not affect the 2PAC clear coat if there is an accident.
Very informative. Please tell me what you think on this: So basically, I just bought Ron's dremmel and glue kit. The dremmel bits are designed to remove the clear on top of the hole, just like Skypilot showed yesterday using his countersink bit.
My question is: Do I still "need" brad point drill bits? From what I have gathered, Brad point drill bits are designed to cut the clear on top of the hole and leave a nice, clean circle big enough for the threads of the screw to not touch the clear. If that is the case, I really don't see a need to also buy Brad drill bits? The way I see it (please correct me if I'm wrong) Once I can use Ron's kit to remove the clear, now I have a clean path to the hole and I can just use a regular drill bit to remove the clear from inside the hole. Is a brad drill bit really necessary to clean the inside of the hole? Am I wrong here? Just making sure, I really don't want to mess this up. Thanks!
Quoted from hisokajp:blockquote cite="#3902385">Picture of problem area would help.
This sounds familiar to. Washers , did you put them all back in after rebuilding the unit? The posts that hold the opto board on and alugn it to not cause binding. Your binding somehow or spring is also binding or on wrong side.
I assume it is either an angle or wore on the wire form... I also just rebuilt flippers and waxed so sometime the balls just fly up there... Though I would hope I could tweak something to avoid 10-20% of the ball flying of the ramp.
The center target still don't drop once in a while, I took the whole assembly apart, there was a couple washers missing which I replaced but that hasn't done much. the springs look pretty strong but maybe it's worth replacing them too? Anything else to look at?
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Before I started restoring my IJ, I had a similar issue with 2 drop targets. I took the assembly out of the game, cleaned everything, Installed all new parts and the problem went away. Get new targets, parts, and clean the assembly and you should be good to go
Is it possible to have Color DMD and the Jackpot light board at the same time? Care to show some pics? I'm in the middle of my restoration and would love to add this mod to my machine. Thanks!
Quoted from Davi:You're welcome. So you need a flat version, available here:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16824
Do you have any idea if I need a special speaker panel with cut outs or something? Thanks!
Quoted from Davi:Exactly, you need a speaker panel with cutouts:
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64&products_id=502
Out of stock... But normally you don't need this odd shape cut. Rounded rectangle cut will be also fine by local CNC shop.
Proto IJ has also rectangle shapes:
Perfect! Thanks!!!
Quoted from PeterG:I did the jackpot board myself. Just drew the three pictures on the wood. I took a pendulumsaw and took out the figures myself. The Colordmd Led version fits perfect.
I got the regular LCD version. Hope I don't run into any problems. Where does the Jackpot light board connect to btw? I got 2 mods running (Color DMD, Ruins light mod) and taking up space on the driver board already. Thanks!
Quoted from liorillusion:you can look here in the middle of the page you have all the info.
http://www.pinballark.com/especial.html
and here is about the connection
http://www.pinballark.com/epanel.html
Thanks!!!
Anybody here have Indy in a million pieces right now? I'm assembling mine and need help/have questions about one piece. PM me please. I'll rather not drag the thread with this particular issue. Thanks
Quoted from Averell:It's absolutely confusing, but it's correct, all of them and lots of other Pins have these guides, too.
More wicked is the fact that the small metal flags of the guides squeeze into the playfield.
I often use small washer between playfield and guides to protect the surface.
Wow! So for sure, the smaller guides just sit there with nothing holding it or securing it? I just don't see the purpose, but oh well. I would've been nice to secure them with a nut. I guess the 2 self tapping screws on that guide will have to do. I'll PM you soon about those restoration pics. Thanks man!
I made a rookie mistake and installed the pop bumper screws before the ball guides which must be pounded in, preferably on a solid workbench. Sooooo, The pop bumper screws are sticking out. Would it be OK to pound the ball guides in with the playfield sitting on the rotisserie? Will that hurt anything? I know I got limited options
Quoted from Soulrider911:I think you should be ok, as long as you using something to support the impact from the underside, so the impact can be absorbed locally and not shake the whole playfield if that makes sense.
Thanks! Yes that makes perfect sense. I installed 2 ball guides last night. Used a rubber mallet to tap them in. It went pretty well. Last 2 should be done tonight. Thanks!
Just letting you all know that lior is making a super cool mod for the left ramp. I believe he is going to have a pre-order soon. I think this ramp mod is very cool indeed. It fits that area of the game very well
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-work-in-progress-indiana-jones-ramp-cover-mod
This is my first time doing a full restoration. Yesterday I installed the back panel and found out securing the playfield to the rotisserie is a bit more complicated now in this corner specifically. The clamps I'm using are too big and don't fit that area anymore. I'm a little hesitant to use C-clamps because I feel they might be a bit too rough on the playfield? I really would like to keep the back panel installed (rather than installing it later) because it will be much more difficult to install it once more stuff is added to the playfield. I had to remove the playfield from the rotisserie to install the back panel since the perforated angle that holds the playfield gets in the way below. Any advise is much appreciated. Thanks!
Playfield assembly is coming along nicely btw
Nice ideas but it has been my understanding all along that the only 100% solution to this problem is to remove the deflector and add foam. I sure hope boob can comment on this (for the 100th time)
Quoted from Averell:And make sure to protect the switch under the POA to prevent short circuits in the switch matrix.
I like your protector for the switch! You should sell some. What material did you use?
Quoted from pintechev:Wait, there is a metal deflector that goes in front of the ball guide. Shouldn’t you add the foam to that? I can’t see how the ball would ever hit foam in your current spot...
I got the deflector polished but I think I'm going with the foam solution this this time
Quoted from beelzeboob:The switch protector is great. But the deflector needs to be taken out. I'd add more along the left side...I think I put it out until about an inch from the front, but I need to check my machine to see.
Thanks! Please do
Quoted from beelzeboob:My foam goes along the left side to the front lip of the hole btw.
Thanks!
Quoted from liorillusion:i cant take my mini pf out right now but if someone can send me the size of this thing i will be happy to make one in 3d and to give it for free
Lior to the rescue! I'll buy one if you make them
Quoted from liorillusion:no need to buy. i will make them for free. only if its ok to averell i can also make them for him and he can sell them. this is not my idea and not my item so i don't want to make or sell something who's not mine...
BTW if anyone wants any rescue with parts he cant find or wants to make. i'm offer my service for free! i have laser cutter and 3d printers and some skills... i'm not going to take 5 cents for that. also because its license and also because its not my idea. but im not going to make something someone else selling or making. i just want to make this hobby more nice and more fun
Class act
Quoted from Averell:Dear all,
please feel free to make this little protector to make Indy much more playable - and I don't want to have anything.
This is just a hobby and we all want to have fun and a great time, so go on.
But I'm glad to be asked for - thank you guys.
Can you provide the measurements to Lior?
Lior is now taking pre-orders for the cool ramp mod he just finished! The more pre-orders he gets, the lower the price! If you are interested click on the link below page 4
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-work-in-progress-indiana-jones-ramp-cover-mod
Quoted from beelzeboob:Dear Mr. K. Freak:
Could you post pictures of the drill bits you used to relieve the clear around the playfield holes? Did you get your kit from Ron? He sells a 3-pack that's terrific. Just wondering what method YOU used to take care of the clearcoat. Thanks.
Your Friend,
Boob.
Boob,
Yes, I used a dremmel and glue kit I bought from Ron. I also bought brad drill bits from Lee Valley Tools. The kit is great and makes removing clear fast, easy and stress free. I tried using the brad drill bits to relieve clear around the holes but they are a bit too harsh for my taste. It is almost impossible to judge when you cut the clear and are about to hit bare wood with them. The only time I use the brad drill bits now is to remove clear from inside the hole only.
Ron's dremmel bits are excellent for removing the clear on top of the hole so your screws don't touch clear when you install them and cause any halos. The bits are super easy to work with. Just light pressure on the dremmel (low speed) and let the bit do its job. The kit comes with different sized bits for different applications. Some are great for tiny holes, some are great for bigger holes and some are great for pop bumper nail/screw holes and so on and so forth. My apologies to you Boob. As much as I would love to share pics of the dremmel bits, Ron, very politely, asked me not to post pictures of his kit. I'm sure he has his reasons. I could possibly post pics of a hole drilled out and how to apply the glue to it. If you are on the fence about buying his kit, trust me, it is worth every penny. I'm sure the pros don't need it but for a rookie like myself, it is very very helpful. Thanks!
The link below takes you to a little demonstration I posted of some holes pre-drilled and glued
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nosnew-playfields-available-as-of-june-5/page/4
Quoted from Davi:I like it. Normally that area is a bit dark. What about yellow, but transparent body, with some light inside?
Been looking for something just like that! Only found the solid yellow....
Quoted from Djshakes:I did yellow, orange, yellow with led rings.
You should post a picture with the machine off
Do you guys know how to get rid of the ball trail on the idol plastic assembly? Should I sand it? I did a good job cleaning the entire thing with simple green but the ball trail seems impossible to get rid off!
Also, does anybody know what goes into this tiny hole in the middle? See pictures. This tiny hole sits behind the ball guide on the left and under the plastic pictured. I took lots of pics but seems I missed this spot. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!
Quoted from liorillusion:novus novus nouvs. if you still have it you can use water sand paper 1500-2000 i did mine by only novus
and look in my photo... its looks like a 47 bulb
Thank you for the tip! I mean the tiny little hole just below the bulb. See picture
Quoted from Pinzap:As lior has said, novus. But to be more specific, start with novus 1 and see how good it can get. I had similar trails on my POTD in my LOTR. Novus 1 wasn't enough, so i had to bring out the big guns, Novus 2 (well, technically Novus 3 is the big guns but I've never had to use that on a pin yet). After a thorough polishing with many cycles of Novus 2, back to Novus 1 for a final shine/polish. Lior also hinted at it when stating "Novus, Novus, Novus", but if you haven't done this before be sure to allow a lot of time. It's a slower process than you might think.
I applaud you on this restore. Those trails will never be seen, but you'll know they're there. Great job!!
Thank you very much! Yes, I just cannot put it back on the playfield until I can get it as perfect as possible! I love IJ and I have poured my heart and soul into this restoration.
Quoted from liorillusion:ohhhh. nothing goes there....
Thank you Lior!!! Great help! Now I can finish that side of the playfield
Quoted from liorillusion:so what you did until now?
» YouTube video
I just cleaned it with simple green
Quoted from Gnatty:Remove it
Its removed. Some sockets are at a weird angle which makes it extra difficult to remove and install new led's
Quoted from liorillusion:here is the new color design for my ramp mod.
for more info and sign in:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-work-in-progress-indiana-jones-ramp-cover-modwe need 25 people to start the first run. discount until Friday!
That looks amazing Lior!
Quoted from Seatmandan:Here are the after pictures. I did a ton of cleaning, refreshing and replacing playfield items that were yellowed or broken, as well as re-building coil assemblies and installed all Comet LEDs
Great job! Where did you get the factory stickers for your lock bar receiver? I'm restoring mine and can't find them anywhere. Thanks!
Quoted from Seatmandan:Left over stock from Illinois Pinball. Bought them second-hand, but from what I understand, the Australian outfit that has screened decals offer the same ones. They are by far the best decals I've installed, hands-down. The Next-Gen ones I've used in the past are a close second
What's the name of the Australian vendor?
Quoted from Seatmandan:KornFreak28, Those look great!
Thank you! Lots of tumbling, sanding, and polishing. Well worth it
Does anybody know the correct type and size of screw used to screw the opto (housing) to the plastic ramp? They are super tiny. Thanks!
Quoted from Davi:If am not wrong, you are talking about right ramp assembly, A-16319.
This contains opto assy, A-16909, where I see 1 screw type:
SMS #4 x 3/8 P-PH-A
WMS reference: 4104-01001-06
Thank you!!!
Fellow IJ owners, Cliffy machined brand new cage brackets and he still has some for sale! This particular bracket is very hard to find! Big thanks to Davi for providing the exact measurements! Big thanks to Lior as well for all the help! I love this community!!!
Quoted from Averell:This bracket should be golden to apply perfect with the ramp.
And more helpful is the little cliffy behind the drop target to protect the playfield.
You mean like this? Got it covered my friend
Honestly, the hardest part of the restoration so far has been trying to install led's on these POA sockets. The main lamp board has some too.
In some sockets, the led's will not go in! I really don't want to crack or damage the board by pushing any harder. Should I unsolder the sockets? Yes, I still gotta clean the board
Quoted from tonycip:I just trimmed the led base to fit it took a min.
Wow! Great tip! Can you tell us how please?
Quoted from Averell:I remember same issue at the POA.
I carefully distend the sockets, but it's very important that you first test the LED of function.
I had the experiece that often the LED need to be turned into the socket if they don't light.
It will be a lot of work if you assemble the POA and build it in and then you dicover that some LED don't work!
Do you suggest I test each led in a different machine?
Quoted from Averell:No, if you finishid the POA connect it to the wiring and check all LED.
Thanks! Your restoration looks beautiful
Quoted from tonycip:I'm not at home right now, but I've noticed the same thing some led's are near impossible to fit in a socket. but if you look closely at the bottom of the led there sometimes too thick or blunt, and wont spread the connector open. So with a dermal just trim down the thickness of the bulb (plastic ) . If your not sure where to do it ,try putting some magic marker on the bottom of the bulb then quickly try and fit it in .then pull it out and see where the marker has rubbed off , that's the spot.
I will try this for sure!
Lior is almost done with the Idol mod. Click the link below to check it out. I think it looks awesome! He will be taking pre-orders soon.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-new-idol-temple-design#post-3904247
Quoted from Davi:My friend has a broken idol lock assembly. I am working on replacement. Material is translucent orange plastic, based on original.
Is there a demand here?
Nice!!! I don't "need" one but I would take one now that my machine is being put back together. Price?
Quoted from Davi:I have a door lock. If you need, I can try to create one for you.
I'll take one too
Quoted from Robertstone0407:So I've been powder coating these if anyone is interested shoot me a PM
I would but mine is already brass plated 
Quoted from Soulrider911:There are few different ones out there KornFreak28. These ones are pretty good very theme accurate:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/indiana-jones-gameblades
Thanks!
Quoted from PeterG:I like those from Averel better. Fit the theme better. The grass on the tilt ones is to realistic.
If only he would tell us where he bought them 
Quoted from Davi:Quick update about idol assembly:
After several attempts, size and shape is OK. The entrance is reinforced, original is too thin and fragile.
This one is going to move into IJ in a pub - will be a kind of stress test.
Lock design/printing is scheduled for next week.
Great job!
Quoted from Davi:Thank you guys for nice words.
About list, let's wait for feedback from operator.
I am going to create clear version too. With this way, you can install any color mod below the idol. Does it make sense?
Yes it does. Thank you for doing this!
Quoted from Averell:Begin to protect the playfield with Mylar:
• Slingshot left and right
• Drop targetsNext step is the airball protector above the drop targets - still waiting for delivery of my prototypes.
Nice job! Do you recommend installing Mylar where the ball drops from the mini playfield saucers?
Quoted from Averell:Be careful, if you have the prototype Panel you must take a closer look to the space between the DMD (LCD,LED doesn't matter) and the Jackpot board.
The original board doesn't fit between Panel and DMD, you need a small LED-reproduction board.
Another problem is that the standard bulbs become to hot and will damage the DMD and the Panel, sooner or later.
Believe me, this is the only one solution to combine DMD and Jackpot with new better engineering.
Nice job! I would like to do the same to mine. How did you do the cut outs? Do you have to do the exact shapes? Would it be possible for me to just cut or drill 3 small circles or squares, enough for the led's to illuminate the panel?
Quoted from Averell:The color of the caps next to the star posts have to be red.
And white rubbers...
I know, I like the look of the yellow caps, yellow rubbers and brass plated screws
Quoted from Averell:Nice work, your Indy will be a beauty again, but still missing Cliffy at the drop target?
Left of the "I" behind the plate there's the spot with the missing light we're talking about... just connect it parallel to the four lights of INDY and use the same socket.
I decided black chrome on the gates and all original color design for rubbers, bumpers, etc.
And what do you do with the ramps?
My ramps are gold-plated and they shine like a treasure, quite expensive but worth it.
Cliffy protectors for the single and 3 bank targets are coming. I also ordered the mode start and shooter lane cliffy. POA switch will also get protected thanks to your idea.
Ramps were re-grained and polished and look amazing!
Quoted from Davi:In fact, I can do any color from available printing materials. Of course need a certain door lock quantity to order a roll of filament.
I can also cooperate with Lior, and send him door locks, then he can send ruins worldwide with door locks in the box, in order to save freight cost for you :-)guys.
Then the next step will be a dark brown idol assembly
...and then new idol from Lior
Imagine, a door lock, like this
Yes!
Quoted from liorillusion:thats a good idea
you can design the door also like bricks to match my design.
and i can paint them depends of ruins color you choose
Yes!
Quoted from liorillusion:from this guy:
ebay.com link » Indiana Jones Pinball Chip L 7
he his awesome!
Thanks!!!
Having a really hard time fitting the captive ball cage. I assume the lost plastic has something to do with it. Did you guys cut it to fit the cage? Not sure what to do here
Quoted from Averell:L-7 Game ROM at IPDB for download... http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1267
Loose the screws from BackPanel and bent the ramp infront of the Plastic, but take care not to scratch it.
Then fix the screws step by step.
Thank you! What did you use to bend the ramp?
Quoted from Averell:Ramp should fit without bending... sure the bolts of the backpanel are in right position, or the panel itself?
Panel must stand in right angled to the playfield.
I don't see any other way of installing the panel? Screws were installed correctly. So the panel must be angled towards the playfield?
Quoted from Averell:Often the panels are a little bit deformed, take a closer look.
Loose the screws and fit in the ramp and then fix the screws again but carefully.
Are the two bolt on the playfield crooked... the ramp must fit in place without violence.
Also, keep in mind that the ramp was maybe mounted without lost plastic, the plactic is approx. 2mm thicker and so the ramp doesn't fit?
That's what I was thinking. Surely the lost plastic isn't helping. I will remove the panel and see if that does the trick.
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