(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

5 years ago



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  • 4,673 posts
  • 388 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by RhettDR
  • Topic is favorited by 189 Pinsiders

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There are 4673 posts in this topic. You are on page 92 of 94.
#4551 31 days ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

First of all, THANKS A LOT to everyone who responded in this thread so far, much appreciated!
I never thought that it was an issue from the other side, so thanks for opening my eyes. That said, I couldn't really notice anything "wrong" with the right side rail, but maybe someone else can compare to their own machine and let me know if you notice anything "off". Pics attached...
PS: I did notice that the white rubber behind the slingshot was placed over the metal rod (where the ball hits) and I thought that was the issue, since the ball was initially going directly into that metal rod. I placed the white rubber back over the metal rod...but the problem kept happening.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You are lucky, I have a blank playfield and a metal ramp until tomorrow...

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#4552 31 days ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

First of all, THANKS A LOT to everyone who responded in this thread so far, much appreciated!
I never thought that it was an issue from the other side, so thanks for opening my eyes. That said, I couldn't really notice anything "wrong" with the right side rail, but maybe someone else can compare to their own machine and let me know if you notice anything "off". Pics attached...
PS: I did notice that the white rubber behind the slingshot was placed over the metal rod (where the ball hits) and I thought that was the issue, since the ball was initially going directly into that metal rod. I placed the white rubber back over the metal rod...but the problem kept happening.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bend the end if the flatrail very slightly until balls roll thru the narrow escape cleanly from the idol exit. Roll them by hand.

The wire gate should be one way and have no binding but be free and loose.

#4553 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Bend the end if the flatrail very slightly until balls roll thru the narrow escape cleanly from the idol exit. Roll them by hand.
The wire gate should be one way and have no binding but be free and loose.

This is what I did to fix mine. Works great now.

#4554 31 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

You are lucky, I have a blank playfield and a metal ramp until tomorrow...

That's an impressive looking playfield.

One question. The finish on it looks matt/satin. What's been done to the playfield itself?

#4555 30 days ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

That's an impressive looking playfield.
One question. The finish on it looks matt/satin. What's been done to the playfield itself?

This a digital print, the matt appearance is the paint itself. Next step is clearcoat.

#4556 30 days ago

Hey guys, I noticed a few days back that the led ENT & lock/center shot lights on my IJ are all out (see pic). All other playfield lights including the led that lights the center shot area are all working fine.

Any ideas why this group of lights would all be out? Is there a fuse that controls those lights that may be blown?

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#4557 30 days ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Hey guys, I noticed a few days back that the led ENT & lock/center shot lights on my IJ are all out (see pic). All other playfield lights including the led that lights the center shot area are all working fine.
Any ideas why this group of lights would all be out? Is there a fuse that controls those lights that may be blown?[quoted image]

Wire fell off?

#4558 30 days ago
Quoted from goggleloy:

Just finishing the restore on mine. What do you guys think? Still waiting on some parts to finish it[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

wow that looks incredible! I have got to find someone to help me put on my new decals. I have had them for 2 years but do not have the balls to put them on myself.

#4559 29 days ago

Thanks. I will check that when I get back home. Anyone know of anything else that could cause that? Will pro ably try to troubleshoot this weekend.

#4560 24 days ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

FYI regarding airball mod. I was told that if you have the lost plastic it pushes pieces around the single drop target forward making installation difficult. If you have a lost plastic on your back board please specify and I will modify the single drop piece to accommodate.
$25 both pieces. mr_brandt@hotmail.com
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Where do these drop target mods come from?

#4561 24 days ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Where do these drop target mods come from?

Pinside member Indypinhead. Just pm him. Great guy and product. Does the WOZ winky too.

#4562 24 days ago

I have reached out a few times, he has been super busy. I may try to print some as I have a 3D printer as of recently, I’ll let you know how it goes, but I don’t want to impede on his turf I would not sell them but if I can make a model that works I’d just share the file. Some are already available on thingverse

#4563 24 days ago

I reached out to Indy and he was dealing with a lot of personal stuff, so he might not respond for a bit. I want his drop targets as well but told him my machine isn’t going anywhere so get back to me when he’s ready

#4564 23 days ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Well, put in my last screw. Wooohooo! Well worth it. Some before dirt dog pics and after. Y’all been there, what a lot of parts this game has. Worth it tho[quoted image]

I might be able to beat this one, i'm starting a tear down next week on a new to me IJ (just joined the club). This sucker is FILTHY, i'll take some pics...

#4565 23 days ago

Dirt off challenge accepted

#4566 23 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

True, I just desire a play field in better condition and I am willing to pay more if needed. The plus was that the battery's were moved...

sfbay.craigslist.org link

Looks like dude lowered his price and posted some better pix.

#4567 23 days ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Dirt off challenge accepted

My idol would error out and it would just start ejecting balls everywhere... figured I might as well get it all cleaned up first and then troubleshoot issues...

Getting there on disassembly...

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#4568 23 days ago

That will clean up fine. I used some Novus 2 to get off the tough stuff. Make sure to put some cliffys on

#4569 23 days ago

I would start with simple green and some elbow grease you would be surprised what that will accomplish and non abrasive

#4570 23 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

sfbay.craigslist.org link
Looks like dude lowered his price and posted some better pix.

Yes, he finally did put up the pics of the play-field crack / damage. He said he would drop the price 100.00 per week until it's sold...

#4571 23 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I would start with simple green and some elbow grease you would be surprised what that will accomplish and non abrasive

Better off with VM&P naptha on a rag instead of simple green.

Cleans better and wont raise the grain of the playfield or damage anything..

Water based cleaners are bad if you have to use a lot of it.

#4572 23 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Yes, he finally did put up the pics of the play-field crack / damage. He said he would drop the price 100.00 per week until it's sold...

Pics are still poor. I still can’t see the cracks either

#4573 22 days ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Pics are still poor. I still can’t see the cracks either

I had to zoom in really close (under left and right flipper) so most who are looking to buy, will most likely not see them as you have stated..

#4574 22 days ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Pics are still poor. I still can’t see the cracks either

Gotta zoom in, look below the left flipper. Looks like a screw came up from beneath the pf. CBFD107E-A362-493E-9153-1524B0AA7C5E (resized).png

Honestly I have seen worse sell for more.

#4575 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Better off with VM&P naptha on a rag instead of simple green.
Cleans better and wont raise the grain of the playfield or damage anything..
Water based cleaners are bad if you have to use a lot of it.

Yeah I’ve got naptha, so I’ll use that once I get the initial dirt off... should clean up nice, is decent shape overall.

#4576 22 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Gotta zoom in, look below the left flipper. Looks like a screw came up from beneath the pf. [quoted image]
Honestly I have seen worse sell for more.

Yes, there it be...

Guns, what are using when cleaning a really dirty play field, Naptha is not available in ca. Will Amazon deliver Naptha to ca?

#4577 22 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Yes, there it be...
Guns, what are using when cleaning a really dirty play field, Naptha is not available in ca. Will Amazon deliver Naptha to ca?

I’ve had good results with denatured alcohol.

#4578 22 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I’ve had good results with denatured alcohol.

Thanks

#4579 20 days ago

ROM upgrade questions for those that have burned their own. I currently have CPU L5 and Sound L2 and noticed the chips sets are different. CPU Rom is an ST Micro M27C4001-10FI and Sound Rom TMS 27C040-10 EAP9310325. When you burn the new chips, do you match the existing chips or just go with a single/same model for both CPU & sound?

#4580 20 days ago

NM, looks like it doesn’t matter. I got Malaysia chips (not what I ordered, I order TMS). But they worked

Curious if the subway ramp issue will be fixed now as it appears they included longer firing times in L7

#4581 19 days ago

Alright, got my IJ back together, but the issue i had before the tear-down is still there.

It'll work for a bit, then in the middle of a game, the display will go out and then it will just start launching balls in a never ending loop. If you power the game off and back on, then as it's sitting there, display will be out, it sounds an error (but you can't see it since the display is out) and it'll launch all 6 balls, and the coil in the subway release will just keep firing. If you start a game, then it just goes into launch ball mode.

I did check for 5v at the display. I have a ColorDMD installed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

#4582 19 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Alright, got my IJ back together, but the issue i had before the tear-down is still there.
It'll work for a bit, then in the middle of a game, the display will go out and then it will just start launching balls in a never ending loop. If you power the game off and back on, then as it's sitting there, display will be out, it sounds an error (but you can't see it since the display is out) and it'll launch all 6 balls, and the coil in the subway release will just keep firing. If you start a game, then it just goes into launch ball mode.
I did check for 5v at the display. I have a ColorDMD installed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Put the old display back in and see if the problem goes away.

#4583 19 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Put the old display back in and see if the problem goes away.

Is this a known issue? I've never had a bad ColorDMD before, I will give it a go though.

#4584 19 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Alright, got my IJ back together, but the issue i had before the tear-down is still there.
It'll work for a bit, then in the middle of a game, the display will go out and then it will just start launching balls in a never ending loop. If you power the game off and back on, then as it's sitting there, display will be out, it sounds an error (but you can't see it since the display is out) and it'll launch all 6 balls, and the coil in the subway release will just keep firing. If you start a game, then it just goes into launch ball mode.
I did check for 5v at the display. I have a ColorDMD installed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

My game did that shooting balls over and over thing when the trough opto came unplugged. I didn’t have any CDMD issues tho.

#4585 19 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Is this a known issue? I've never had a bad ColorDMD before, I will give it a go though.

It’s probably less a bad CDMD issue and more a weak power driver board issue. I believe the CDMD and the optos both run off of the 12v section.

#4586 19 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

My game did that shooting balls over and over thing when the trough opto came unplugged. I didn’t have any CDMD issues tho.

Yeah, i unplugged and replugged that one in, i wonder if it's bad...

Same issues with the regular DMD, only difference is that the regular one stays powered, whereas the ColorDMD goes blank. However all the rest of the behavior is identical.

#4587 19 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

It’s probably less a bad CDMD issue and more a weak power driver board issue. I believe the CDMD and the optos both run off of the 12v section.

Ok, I'll do some digging and figure out where to measure the 12v.

#4588 19 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Ok, I'll do some digging and figure out where to measure the 12v.

Hey Chris, sounds like you blew out fuse F116 on the power driver board

I would check that first. If its blown out, put back the original display first then replace the fuse.

Then go back and see what you may have done wrong with the ColorDMD

#4589 19 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Ok, I'll do some digging and figure out where to measure the 12v.

The test points are in the upper left corner of the power driver board and are labeled.
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#4590 18 days ago

Thanks, great info!

After sitting over night without power, it booted right up this morning. So i'll have to play until it resets again, but it doesn't just do a full-reset like i've seen in some of the videos, once it glitches, it's stuck in that weird state until I pull the power to the boards or let it sit for awhile without power.

#4591 18 days ago

Alright looks like my 12v is going out, LED 7 isn't lit and i'm only showing 1v at test point TP1 while the game is freaking out. Which explains why the mini-PF, the Idol and all the optos are spazzing since they don't have the proper voltage.

Trying to find another fuse to check that, also looking at the PinWiki to check some other things.

#4592 18 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Is this a known issue? I've never had a bad ColorDMD before, I will give it a go though.

Its not the colordmd and you found F116 12v. Try new fuse. Doesnt matter which display but the colordmd is also 12v.
If fuse is new and you still have issues check back.

#4593 18 days ago

Yup, just saw that J116 is the 12v for coin door (where the colorDMD taps into) so that makes sense why it won't boot the ColorDMD.

Yeah, trying to find another fuse in my stash, otherwise it's BR5 or C30 causing the issue on the 12v circuit.

#4594 18 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Yup, just saw that J116 is the 12v for coin door (where the colorDMD taps into) so that makes sense why it won't boot the ColorDMD.
Yeah, trying to find another fuse in my stash, otherwise it's BR5 or C30 causing the issue on the 12v circuit.

Before you go there its all about fresh fuses.

#4595 18 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Before you go there its all about fresh fuses.

For sure, just can't seem to find a 3a laying around, which seems stupid, LOL

#4596 18 days ago

Looks like i bought 5 3a slo-blo's back in March, just need to find them.... don't think i used them all...

#4597 18 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Looks like i bought 5 3a slo-blo's back in March, just need to find them.... don't think i used them all...

Oh god,been there. Where the F*** did i put those fuses. If you saw my parts room....yes, i have a whole room of pinball parts.

#4598 18 days ago

New fuse, same issue, so BR or cap i would guess at this point.

#4599 18 days ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

New fuse, same issue, so BR or cap i would guess at this point.

No----Take your power box apart inside coin door/service box/ power switch box.
UNPLUG GAME FROM WALL FIRST!

#4600 18 days ago

Inside this box are the 2 things almost no one replaces or checks first. All power to boards comes from here. Poor ignored power box on so many restorations ive seen. Start fresh with a new Varistor and Thermistor. both available on most pin parts sites. Marco's etc..
Replace these 2 components, most all are original and worn and old and are failing. This can cause issues for the 12v/optos and displays.

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