Is Led 3 on the powersupply suppose to be on or off? I believe Led 5 is out too on my game.

Please do. I recommend you use your phone's slow-motion camera feature and have someone record when the ball exits the Idol and hits the gate. It would probably show you what's causing the rejects

I love a good project with plenty of troubleshooting! Best start from the beginning and work you way up just to be sure and check everything on the way up ( Power cord, ground, inside power box, jumper, J101 connector etc...).

Should be your driver board LED/TP list:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

If you are not sure where to start you could follow some of the rest troubleshooting section to get you driver board 100% before moving onto CPU then other ones...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

I missed the posts a few days ago about people’s art blades getting damaged. Maybe you already know about these, but I’m honestly still surprised that every pinball owner doesn’t own a set. Never damaged a mirror blade or art blade since purchasing these. Wise investment.

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Agreed with those protectors. They work perfectly. Unfortunately, I often forget to put them in and life the sucker up! I’m a moron.

I cut thin strips of adhesive felt and attach them in 4 spots in the side of the playfield... never had a scratch since

If you have a label maker put a little label under your lockdown bar that says “Place Protectors BEFORE Lifting”. Saw this idea from another pinsider (Yelobird I think).

Great idea!

In my case the big metal part stuck out beyond the playfield and scratched it a bit. Felt wouldnt have been enough to save it. Bending it in a bit solved it but too late lol.

Where does this part go? Trying to find pictures of Indy shopping, no luck.

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Under the right ramp with the pointed end towards the back box.

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Thanks a lot!

Are you restoring your machine?

Yes, i am. Had this plan of doing it all in a weekend, that turned into months. I had the stupid idea, I will remember where things go. Yeah right...

Come back anytime should you have any other questions. I also restored mine and have lots of pics in my phone

Does anyone know the type and size of screws holding the gun to the cabinet?? thanks.

They are “stove” bolts due to the square shank under the domed head. They’re about 1.5 inches long X 3/16 course thread

thank you!

Both versions look great! I'm still going for the darker set. I think the darker set really compliments the holy grail, Idol and the eyes by blocking the light from the pop bumpers which makes them pop a lot more. Interested to see the upcoming version but count me in for the dark set! Great job!

*****Could you possibly try them on a different machine?*****

Hi jazzbouche - these look great. Did you mention doing a set that was more like the color of the factory ruins as well?

Hi,
Just thought I would share a mod that I have recently finished that has pretty much stopped all the mode start ball rejects on IJ. So far it has worked flawlessly with only 1 or 2 rejections in many many shots. The rejections have happened from slamming it in as hard as i possibly could.
Not shown in the photos are washers that should be installed under the springs to prevent the springs from winding and working their way through the flap, as the holes in the flap are quite large.
The principle behind the springs is that when the ball slams into the ball stop flap, inertia from the moving ball is absorbed by the springs acting on the metal flap which is allowed to pivot back and slightly up. This deadens the movement of the ball instantly and stops it from bouncing out.
However as a result the upward movement of the flap, it rubs on the underside of the plastic that surrounds this area. To combat this problem I have currently raised the plastic with washers to prevent it touching. Another alternative to prevent the rubbing problem would be to reduce the height of the flap by grinding or cutting it down in size a bit. When I get around to installing a new plastic to replace my already broken plastic surround I think I will end up doing this as I don’t believe it needs to be as big/high as it currently is anyway.
What are your thoughts long term, will it continue to work? What could possibly go wrong?

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This is interesting. I’ve certainly
Been wondering why the rejects happen so often considering the exact design works so flawlessly in terminator 2.

I love this idea! I have removed my flap and put in drop dead foam. That works 90% to reduce rejects. But I miss the metal clack of hitting that shot. This could be the answer.

Can you post the hardware/sizes you used?

Nice idea! My only “concern” would be the holes getting stripped from the constant hitting. The metal stop is not fully secured and I “think” this could be a possibility? The screws are not tightened all the way and over time they could strip the holes, maybe?

The screws are long and are tight in the playfield but as you say over time with constant beating they may work loose. There is a reasonable amount of tension created by the springs that prevents the metal stop from flailing around, it ends up being quite a crisp and snappy action. I have a couple of videos that ill try and post so you can see it in action.

That would be great! Thanks!

Lets see how this works!

Another couple of videos to show the operation.

Damn bro, looks pretty solid! Awesome idea! If I were you, I would put a thin layer of foam under the bracket to prevent it from biting into the wood.

Other than the screws possibly giving way over time, I think this something I would totally go for. Could you report back in 6 months to let us know how it’s holding up?

The screws are a standard #6 x 1” sheet metal screw. #4106-01115-16
The springs I had lying around from a spring kit I bought some 25 years ago!
The washers, not shown but highly recommended are something like the #4700-00090-00 from MarcoSpecialties.

Can you give us the approximate size of the springs?

Thanks mate. At the back of the metal bracket I have glued a piece of plastic wire insulation to help prevent the bracket digging in, also acts as a bit of a pivot point too. I’ll keep an eye on it and I may end up installing a Cliffy protector there.

Do my best to report back in 6 months, will put it in my calander!

Hahaha or someone here will remind you! Any idea on the size of the springs?

A picture tells says a 1000 words, here’s 2000!
I’m at work at the moment and not home for a couple of days so might have to wait for exact measurements. They are definitely not a pinball spring though, as I mentioned earlier they are from a spring kit.

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The idea is super sound.

It just has to be pinball hardened!

The screws in the wood will hold up but not very long.

You will need to drill through the playfield, set t-nuts or lock nuts with washers.

Trade out the screws for either round or hex playfield posts with top and bottom washers and screws.

2 posts would fo it.

Drill the holes in the bracket bigger or make a better one.

A thin metal cliffy underneath as a pivot will last 1000's of games of hard abuse.

Very sound inertia damper idea!

Another idea was to move the bracket back slightly and mount a loose backplate to the back wall.

The heavy loose steel plate would also dampen inertia and hang down at a slight angle to deflect the ball downward. 1/8" steel plate would do it.

Much like hanging chains in a batting cage.

Basically a steel dampener instead of a rubber pad.

Airball protectors
***Last call - last batch***

I've got many requests, so 2nd, last batch is almost ready. If you have contacted me, no need to do it again, I will contact you about details.
I have few extra, here is the last chance.

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Oh yeah I’m in

Im in!

Also in. I sent a pm

Is it just me? I have so much difficulty getting beyond the first hole on the path of adventure. Seems no matter how I tilt the playfield, I end up dropping through. Any suggestions?

Install washers under it to balance it more to the side that's not level.

It takes a bit if adjustment to make it work right.

Typically you cant get the ball to fall either left or right after the post drops

Adjust until you can do either.

Also, check if it tilts more one way than the other. This can also be adjusted with some tweaking.

Lower the playfield pitch a bit to make it go a little slower down the POA.

The tip that helped me the most is that you should think that you’re trying to “throw” the ball from one side of the POA playfield to the other. If you tilt the playfield at the wrong time (usually too early), the ball will just follow the rail curve and end up in the middle hole. You have to play around with the timing so that when you tilt the playfield, the rail actually gives the ball some momentum to get to the other side. Took me some time to get the hang of it, but I can run the path pretty good now. The funny thing is that once you zero in on the timing to cross the field, you have to resort to your old timing to let the ball fall in the extra ball hole. Good luck...

Oh, and I didn’t have to resort to washers or anything other than factory... but did have to bend the initial deflector metal thingy to get the ball to fall left or right depending on my choice (rather than going always right when I first got the game).

Same here. No washer required.

I did end up having to use some locktite blue to hold the grub screw in. I had it in test mode and had it moving around until I found the left/right sweet spot. I marked it with a sharpie on both parts so it could easily be tightened while staying aligned.

Anyone happen to have a set of silkscreen decals they are willing to part with? Even if it’s just the left hand main cabinet side?!

Contact Rick at pps.
He has a ton if one side of the cab as well as some with the line error.

I can't remember what side.
Ask sara.

Has anyone tried this replacement ball deflector?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8806

This one is curved compared to the original. I've only seen the straight (original design) replacements available up until this point. This may be irrelevant, but it's something that I just noticed, and I look at this crap a lot!

Interested to know if that works any better. I just removed mine on the weekend and put some foam at the back. I was getting so sick of the rejects.

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Yup there are many ways people have devised to deal with this issue...
- Removal of the deflector + Drop dead foam
- Elongated mounting holes on the deflector to adjust it back from its original position (mantisamusements.com sells these)
- Clever shock absorbing spring loaded bracket

I bought one of these Marco curved deflectors however my machine is in pieces and won't be able to test it for a while. I'm not expecting much... just intrigued.