Amazing. Quality. Great job!

20190129_153937 (resized).jpg

20190129_153948 (resized).jpg

20190129_153951 (resized).jpg

I don't believe so. Bought it in northern california almost 2 years ago.

It does and did. I replaced the planes with originals. I ended up putting new art.. color dmd... pinsound ... it is a great machine. love the targets...

Hi George - Thanks for reaching out. That's what I was hoping/thinking. Fingers crossed and play on!

Hi all, I have an issue with levelling my IJ, and I was wondering if I had the correct brackets for the pf installed (they were on the machine when I got it, but you never know!).
To get the machine pf at the right angle I need to put the back legs onto blocks. This of course means it doesn't sit the same as the rest of my machines so looks a bit odd.
Can anyone measure and confirm these are correct (around 63mm, or 2.5inches)? If they are correct, then what the heck is going on with my machine? The cabinet was originally a Popeye, maybe the slide rail bolts are lower in the cab on a Popeye (doh!)?

IMG_20190125_152456 (resized).jpg

I really need a set of those anti air ball plastics.

Play on Glen!

my plastics have already arrived, they look great.
Thank you, Davi

I recently replaced the globes on my IJ and noticed most of the top row of lighting on the backbox wasn't lighting up. Didn't think much about it and I was pretty sure it had been like that for a while (10+ years). I finally decided to track it down and follow some wiring to see where the loose wire was. I found that the J120 connector was blackened on pins 9 & 10 and couldn't be removed. With a little gentle persuasion (a vice-grip) I carefully pulled it out as 2 pieces (see below). My question is does anyone know how to test J120, specifically pins 10 & 11 to see if they are working - maybe some sort of general connectivity test with a multimeter, before I wire this up again.

I've got no idea when/how/why/where this happened and the machine plays fine, apart from the fact that the flippers, following the change-over to LEDs, have become too strong, which is another question.

Additionally, does anyone know who has the 11 pin edge connector?

image1 - Copy (resized).jpeg

They are correct.

Donnie -
You can get the connectors from GPE. You need to change both ends. This is typical burning due to the heavy current load on that connector. If you don't have experience soldering, you should send out the circuit board to have the connector changed. There's several folks out there who do the work, my personal preference is Chris Hibler.

If you only change the connector with the wires, it will burn up again due to the burned pins on the circuit board.

For the connectors with the wire, use Trifurcon pins in the new connector - they have better contact, and can handle the higher current, in case you go back to incandescents. There's lots of information out there on crimping pins for new connectors.

I am not sure why the flippers are stronger with LEDs, but I suspect your power supply was loaded down, and now with less current draw required for lighting, you're actually seeing full power to the flippers.

Bill C

Those look great. How well does it match existing plastics? Can someone post a picture of the current plastic next to this replacement please?

They look exactly the same

2nd picture:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/78#post-4782735

Thanks for your response. I was wondering why this would happen. Given I've got now full LED on the backboard, my guess would be that the load is going to be significantly less, but I can only guess why a 100% lighting rail would draw so much power it causes this. I've had the machine since 2003 and I don't think it's been working from then. I never leave my machines on when not using them and you would likely either hear that or smell it.

I am experienced in electronics and soldering but before I take the board apart, I was wondering if I put the multimeter on the pin and on the ground, I should see 6.8V on both of those pins, right? They are listed as backbox 6.8V. When I look at the connectors on the board, they both look good as the damage seems confined to the molex plug and a very minor chip in the socket on the PDB.

Can I ask why you think this would be necessary? If the board is OK (ie: tests for 6.8V), shouldn't all be good? I'm in Australia so I'm limited with the number of experts in the field I can access, therefore you get used to doing everything yourself where possible

My only real concern is what caused this in the first place. I'm hoping by the fact I'm removing all the original globes (won't be going back to incandescent) that whatever globe in the past caused this, the LEDs won't do the same thing

Neither am I. The flippers are stock coils. Is it possible to put a resistor across the coil to reduce it's power marginally?

Sorry for delay. Some test colors

D5BFE873-10E3-4B26-BEEE-97BD62EC8B0A.jpeg

Moving forward on resto. Can’t wait to play it

083774DD-25BB-4409-A179-DDF92B44FEA4 (resized).jpeg

Donnie -

Since you're "down under", I can understand not wanting to send the boards out. As to why the connector burned, this is a well documented problem with Indy - the engineers pushed the limits of what the pins could handle, and after time, the pins start to oxidize (corrode), which lowers the amount of conductive area on the pin connection, which in turn pushes more current through a smaller area, and higher current produces higher temperatures, which in turn leads to more oxidation, and the circle continues until they are at a point where the current flow through such a small surface area burns up the connector. Since this is not instantaneous, you may not have noticed a burning smell.

Looking at your picture, those header pins are burned - they will not have adequate surface area for expected current flow using incandescent bulbs. I know you have LEDs installed, however, you're taking a chance that there's enough conductive area on the pins to keep from burning up your connector. So, its a blanket recommendation that the header pins be replaced, too.

You may be able to take a scotchbrite pad or other mild abrasive and get the pins to be more conductive, but since the tin has burned off, they will become oxidized/corroded rather quickly. At a minimum, you will end up chasing your tail by doing the abrasive method lots of times, or at worst, the burning may get so bad as to burn a hole in the circuit board itself. In my experience, once you smell the magic smoke, the damage is already done.

Concerning the voltages - yes, you should be able to read the volts (I don't remember if it is AC or DC), but if you try to read the voltage before changing the header pins, you will find that you really have to have the meter lead "dig in" or scratch through the oxidation to feel the voltage. That is what a new connector would have to do to make the connection to a burned header pin.

I'm not sure of a source in your area, maybe others can chime in.

Ah that makes perfect sense. I see where this is going. I will try to gently sand the pins and maybe I'll see if I can thin-tin the pins with a solder cover in order to gain a slighter higher conductive coating. I'm rather hoping that what should be a noticeable drop in draw from the LEDs might save the board a trip to the pinball doctor. Very much appreciate your thoughts and explanation on this

Did you have any thoughts on whether I could marginally knock down the power of the coils with a resistor across the terminals? Is that possible / legal / immoral or fattening?

I’ll tell you what my doctor told me about my diet: If it tastes good, spit it out

I’m not sure what to do about too strong flippers. What’s your voltage to the flippers? If too high above expectations, see how your transformer is wired. Are you set for low wall voltage when your wall voltage is normal? (Low tap instead of high tap)

Instead of looking to add components (assuming your voltage is normal), look at having the EOS switch come into play sooner - that will get you to the hold coil quicker and may give you the reduction you’re looking for. If my thinking’s right, the opposite would be your EOS is coming in too late, so check where your EOS comes into play. When checking, push in on the pawl, don’t use the flipper bat.

I can’t get to my manual right now, but somewhere on this thread is a measurement of where the EOS comes into play. Hope you’re good at math, because I don’t think the measurements are metric.

tinning is a very short term solution, it fails after awhile.

repin the board, its not too hard and fairly quick, or send it out.
replace the connector.

make sure you have the correct coils. If so, leave them alone.

I can put you on to "beaky" in Melbourne .does all my board work. knows his stuff . should resolder all other pins while its out . 30 yo condensors are iffy too

They are definitely stock coils, both on the flipper and kickers. Also in very good condition. I find it hard to believe it's not related to the LED upgrade however as the power of the flippers have increased substantially since then to the point I'm concerned about what I'll break with the extra power. Balls are flying off things at a significant rate which didn't happen before the LEDs were installed. I didn't want to put in lower power coils as I'm sure the opposite will happen and I'll be stuck with flips that can't make the POA - usual story

I'll see if I can find a fellow in AUS to deal with the board. I'm sure there's a few specialists who handle these sorts of boards, but they are getting thinner everywhere.

Ill also check this out to see what's happening here. Anything that helps here would be great.

Yes please! If you have details I'd be grateful for a PM

Those came out great! (you work fast to do that many). And your machine is looking flawless. The color palette you show there near the factory playfield will help me in deciding on how to paint my sculpted version, so thank you for that (and to note, I will never offer a similar replica to yours despite having the mold, so I won't be stepping on your toes there).

The design/sculpt for my rails is complete. I may give a sneak peek to those that have gotten on my PM list before the full reveal, but it will be soon. I'm working to get a mold done currently, and hoping to have a painted and wired version ready any day now .

Thanks for posting the picture. I was actually interested in the yellow set you posted in your pictures in post #3920. The yellow rails with the black graphic on them are what I liked best. Any chance of seeing a picture of that yellow set?

QSS

LEDs draw less current which could allow voltage to rise. I've never noticed a problem but it's theoretically possible. You should check voltages with your multi meter. V=IR

If the game plays too fast increase the pitch a little.

I got around to testing the voltages on the board against ground and can see that no matter where I touch on the pins, I get 7.7V AC. There doesn't seem to be any dead patches on the connectors. That's only a cursory test, but every point I could touch always produced 7.7V. This seems to indicate that the pins are quite conductive, doesn't it? I've been given the contact for a board specialist in Melbourne Australia (where I am based) - many thanks to @trumpy for this - and I'm going to discuss the matter with him. I'm quite reticent to pull the board out if it doesn't need to be, but clearly I don't want the same problem to happen again, so I'll discuss with him and get the expert view

Thanks for the pointer on this. I've been reading up a lot of this now and understand how much better these are. This was a great tip and I also found this video which outlines pretty much the whole process which might also help someone else. Coincidently it shows the connector which looks almost identical to mine:

I'm ordering the crimps and crimp tool so I can rewire the edge connector. The Trifucon pins look much better.

Do you have a suggestion as to what exact point I should check? With the power of the flippers I see, when shooting the left ramp/rail, the ball will fly off the rail now about 80% of the time. I feel the pain when I hit a target knowing what it might be doing to the machine. Most obviously though is that it's almost impossible to get into the mode start because the ball goes in too quickly, it almost invariably comes out (a lot of people will say this is their normal experience anyway My kids play the game and we've all noticed the power increase. I'm still looking to maybe change the BLUE solenoids to ORANGE and see what happens. I was waiting to fix the edge connector first so I can test with effectively the full power draw.

Forgot to respond to this. The machine is almost at full tilt. Certainly above the norm. I don't want to make it too easy for the kids!

Thanks! Send me some pictures also

No problems
The black on the tellow is just me doing a quick test with a pen

Donnie -
Just checked, my flipper coils are FL-11629-50V. (Blue wrapper) My EOS closes when the plunger has about 1/8th of an inch of travel left before the plunger bottoms out on the coil stop.

I am at a loss as to why you've got so much power to the flippers. Did you check the voltage at the flipper coils? I have 45VDC on mine.

Will do

Use a digital torpedo level or a cell phone app to accurately set the pitch of the playfield wood itself, not the glass.

7 to 7.5 degrees is what a lot of people have.

Mine is 6.9 degrees.

These are fantastic! I've taken your pic and added some numbers so I could comment (I hope you don't mind).

Changing this color has a very significant impact on the overall look of the game. The original red is a nice tie in with all the red in the playfield... it also makes the POA pop. That being said, I think green would look really great and balance well with the existing artwork. Your original green sample (previous post) matched really well with the darker green in the plastics artwork... not sure if that's shown here (it may be #4 but with pics/lighting are sometimes see the true color)... but I think that's the best green IMHO. All the earth tones (2,5,6 and 7) would look great as well. It looks like for 9 you went with a color that is closest to the original ruins. I also like that because it adds balance to the game.

What about a tan color that is close to the plastics that sit below the POA??? It's a light shade of tan... that may also provide a nice tie in to it.

Anyway I'm getting one... I like sticking with the original style for this machine. The realism effects look nice but I think because the overall look of the game is "toony" when you go to realistic, it doesn't look right... that's just my opinion.

Again these are all fantastic, you've chosen all the right colors and tones, not a stinker among them. Its purely a matter of personal taste as to what works.
colors (resized).jpg

Not sure if anyone has had this problem. I have a pinsound installed...
I started to get a "soundboard interface error" intermittently. Usually during multiball the machine would shut down and then power up again (giving me the error). It happens sporadically. I can play it for an hour, go through many multiballs just fine. Then, the next day do the same and get the error. It is very frustrating as it is not consistent and does not happen very often. I put all new ribbon cables in - did not help. Any suggestions would be great. I am running L-5 version fyi... thanks.

Do you have the latest firmware version for your Pinsound installed?

pm sent. i solved it in my machine....
btw guys if you need any help with pinsound in ij machine feel free to send me pm. im also working on new package.

So my mini pf are ready(THIS IS NOT THE ONES I POST HERE WITH THIS PHOTOS). Wow its toke a lot of time and I will explain why. I decide not to sculpt on the original model so I cast the original and after that I cast them with wax and I sculpt on the wax! I start to hide also the right side of the wood of the mini pf but I figure that when the mini pf moves its touching the lite jackpot and the metal ramp also for 1 mm and I really don’t want to make something who will change the game and the movements on the mini pf. After that I did another model and I figure out that it must be engraved inside because its touching the ramps in the sides so this project is pain in the ass!!!!! I did like 10 models and test them on the machine and it was not good. That’s awesome I have the machine with me hahah. So I think I made 10 designs! I did bricks and tiki mask in the front with branches and it was looking boring for me. I did things from the movie. I did things from the Disney rides mehhhhh to much! But I did 2 versions that I really like. Now im doing a molding for the wax model with my designs but its really cold here so its take time to make a silicone mold… here is one of my first sculpt on the mini pf not engrave inside so if you like it trust me you will like my finale model a lot!!!! I know there is a lot of people who making this mod and to be honest im not mad now but I was. I have the game and I test it few times and one more thing! If you bought my ramp mod YOU CANT INSTALL any other mini pf from the market!!!! Just the original from the game or mine because any other ones also the guy who making new design will touch the ramp I made and also going to touch the other mods im making! And trust me only me know what im making and its going to blow your mind hahah. So for now just enjoy from my poor ugly first sketch I did before very long time…. the new ones is wayyyy better with tons of details!!!! but you will need to wait few days....
make sure to check this thread and to follow it!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-indiana-jones-mini-pf-ruin-my-first-prototype#post-4817214
4838e28e-02f9-4819-b25c-5dec67329521 (resized).jpgbb9be09e-c4a5-47e4-985c-056cee222d5d (resized).jpg

That looks awesome!

huh!? do you think? hahah thanks! that was my first version so imagine what will be the last one! this ones are uglyyyy hahah

Lior, that really look awesome if painted I think.
But let us surprise with your final model

Suppose I should show what I've been working on as well. Some of the teasers had been going out to PMs. More in the next few days. This is without paint of course. LEDs will be an option and have a capacitor in the circuit for smooth, fiery lighting effects.

Left rail to be revealed soon.

20190131_235600 (resized).jpg

20190131_235606 (resized).jpg

49718 (resized).png

i really like the mask. not kidding at all. looks great!

Thank you. You did good work as well, and yours undoubtedly matches your set the best

Thanks. I agree about the red one. As a said before this is some test colors I did.
The red should be darker.
The brown 9 is probably the one I will choose but will test more when my game is more done. I will do more colors and get back to you all.

Oh I wasn’t criticizing your red color... I was making the statement about the original choice of red by the game designers. All your colors are great!

Bye bye guys, been a short trip with you.
But even if the theme and story are great, I was not catched by the gameplay.
Back to LOTR and TSPP..