Hi Djshakes and Davi - I know this isnt the proper thread for me to post this in but the machine that could really use your talents is Back to the Future. The plastic behind the drop targets in the center of the play field gets destroyed and the airballs that come back are worse than those on Indiana Jones. A protector like Dj's or a one piece replacement plastic like Davi's that you guys made for IJ would be an incredible mod for BTTF owners like myself.

The idea is not bad, but if the protector will break or service is needed in that area you have to remove the complete part.
My suggestion is to keep the protector as one part and to reinforce the original plastic as sandwich between a second protector underneath.
You only need some longer screws.

You can't go over certain height, you will face issue about biplane (contact with glass), and angle of wireforms.
Sandwich means thin protector: easy to break.

Thanks for PM's, I will be back soon.

Does anyone have a printable full size scan of the lost plastic? I’d like to just print it on some nice photo paper and put it back there. That way the thickness wouldn’t be an issue. I would think it would look identical. Thoughts?

It's not true... here's my heavyduty sandwich protection in that area.
And the BiPlane still fits perfect under the glass.
No issues with ball lane or anything - works.
Material is 2 mm unbreakable Vivak.

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But this area is more dangerous and you have to keep an eye on it.
That target catapulte the ball back into the BiPlane and destroys everything.
Mylar in front of the target and a protector to eliminate powerful airballs!
On the right you see the reinforced plastic ramp from Starship... even that area is safe.

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This is very similar to Djshakes's version (basically the same).

Not everyone likes the appearance. At least we have choices, and everybody can decide which version is better for him.

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I will wait few more days, then will ask price for this batch.
You don't have to worry about your parts. If someone would not like to change the original plastic, your version is a good choice for him.

Finally joining the club today.

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No response last time but pretty sure that's cause no one has one but ... looking for a speaker panel with the jackpot cutouts if you have one that you arent going to use.

That’s funny, I was just going to ask too. I’ll pay $1 more than that guy! Jk. If anyone even has a template made that would be cool. It would be an excuse to buy a nice saw...

I've finally gotten back to working on an IJ I have had in work for years. Here's a couple teasers while the playfield is on the rotisserie.

Jerry

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Wow, that's awesome.

Maybe you can make me one also if you get a template. lol

Ive got an odd one.
Moved indy to opposite side of living room to make room room for xmas tree.
Seems I lost audio loudness. Has been on 9 for 2 years, now to get same volume I have to pump it up to 18.....?
Checked all ribbon cables and speaker connections...
Its almost if game knows my pinsound showed up earlier this week.

Does anybody know the new switch part number for “top post 46”? I can’t locate it anywhere under the part number listed. I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

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Are you looking for the switch+wire actuator?
This is a rare item. It seems available in 1 German shop only.
https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=8174
In case the actuator is fine, you need the switch only. Buy any switch under part number 5647-12693-**, then replace the actuator.

Thanks! I assume that shop doesn’t ship to USA? I needed both because I don’t know how to replace the actuator. Is it pretty easy?

Very easy. Use a very small screwdriver.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=5647-12693

Thanks Davi!!!

Made a Monkey Island mod. Lightens up together with the lock light.
Gives a nice effect on the left spiral.

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Looking to change out to a color DMD. Where is best place (most reasonable and reliable) to purchase? Would prefer to purchase one without having to change power supply - looking for plug and play.
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure

Colordmd.com....strait from the source!
Go LCD for Indy.
Easy install, no need to worry about power supply.

Seems like my idol motor and gear box is failing. Opts and switches all check out. But it seems when theres 3 balls locked in or sometimes 2 it doesnt have the torque to rotate the balls, also when I turn it by hand there no tension. I'm guessing it's the gearbox?

Take it apart and clean out all the dried grease, spray it off with wd-40, regrease it with white lithium grease.
Check for any broken gears, probably ok really.

Remove it and test it with a 9V battery

Motor works fine.

I got it out of the machine and disconnected the motor from the gear box. When I spin the shaft the gears only spin occasionally at random, plus the box is riveted together. I'm guessing one of the gears has broken off the main shaft. I had a dr who that had the same issues so I'm just going to replace it.

What about WD-40 dry lube PTFE spray instead?

Drill out the rivets and replace them or bolt it back together.

The new clear silicone grease with PTFE is really good.

These pinball gearboxes rarely see enough traffic to wear out.

However seized gearboxes can break I guess.

It's the gear on the motor shaft that mostly wears out due to seized gearboxes from hardened grease.

There's just not that much going on inside the gearbox for it to wear out.

It's easier and cheaper to get a motor with gear on it that a new gearbox.

Both my indy's flippers are dead.

Initially they were intermittent.

I then pulled the flipper opto's apart and cleaned with a cloth sprayed with alcohol spray and put them back in and they don't work at all now. Reseated the connectors on both flippers and on the main board.

Did a coil check and flipper coils themselves seem fine. Question : when the "hold" test happens should the flipper bats move up quickly or slowly?
My left one raises slow but the right is even slower. Normal power test they shoot up quickly like normal. I'd never run that test before so I didnt know what to expect.

I've checked all the fuses on every board (without removal) and they seemed fine. Reseated every connector on the fliptronics board and powered on again. No change.
I then pulled all the fused on every board and retested. I broke the fuse in f101 (doh). So i'll have to see if I can find a replacement tomorrow as the 3A were the only ones I didn't have on hand.

Failing that what else should I check?

Replace the broken fuse.
Remove the coil stops and inspect the plungers, sleeves and springs. Clean as you go.

Check for any mechanical binding first. They should move freely and have a little bit of play in and out if you pull on them.

Why would you have to change the power supply if you went with the LED version of the Color DMD?

Replaced fuse.

Pulled every other fuse and checked resistance with a meter. All good. Checked tp1,2 and 3 on the power board and they’re all good.

Flippers were rebuilt about 150 games ago, checked them anyway and they move freely. They test fine in the test menu.

Oh well looks like more googling :/

Check flipper button switches?

Is there a good way to test the flipper opto boards? Seems coincidental that both are out at the same time.

Might be time to take some voltage readings at the flipper coils.

Maybe the problem is a loose, broken or corroded pin, contact or wire.

Check EOS switches and gaps?

Its a(n almost) Christmas miracle!

I threw some new hardware at the problem and it fixed it! Hurray, just in time for everyone coming over this Christmas to play pinball!

The problem was the opto boards. Both were dead! Tried one first just in case something was killing them and the replacement one worked.

What are the odds that both boards would be dead at the same time?

Wayne from mrpinball casually mentioned that spring steel needed to be installed. I thought I had ones installed that I could reuse but found that they were actually missing too!

Looking good now

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Did some tinkering this weekend. IJ Plane mods.

(posted on Pinside Mod forum, too)

Hello, I just noticed my plane leds are not working? Any idea how to test these and what the problem may be?? Thanks all.

Go into test mode and activate the test for it... the test mode will put them in a flashing state. If they don't flash on and off in test mode then you need to do a little more digging.

You can see if your LEDs on the plane are working by disconnecting the harness under the playfield (with the power off) and connecting a 9V battery across the terminals (of the plane side of the harness... not the WPC driver board side). You will need to rig some wires into the plug. If your LEDs don't illuminate then it is at the very least, a problem with the components on the PCB of the fighter plane. If they do illuminate then its a problem with the connection to the driver board or a problem on the driver board itself.

Hope this helps.

Thank you!!

Throw some cotton in the ark mod and it will spread out the light and look more like the scene from the movie

Hey all,
I have a sad indy and need some help. I got overconfident and decided to add a socket to my cpu board so I could put in nvram. Unfortunately I also added a pinsound at the same time (though that seems to be working). I triple checked all my ram pins and they seem to connect to all the appropriate places.

Well, when I boot I get nothing (except the pinsound boots and then does nothing). Here’s what the lights on the boards look like. Basically d19 stays lit and d20 never comes on. Man down.

Ugh. Any help would be appreciated.

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Try to go back to original set, Removing mods and see if that is booting or not.

Not much help, but.
In your picture your short cpu to driver ribbon cable looks wonky. Game off, remove and check pins, then put it back on.

I have 3 good news about airball protector.

1. The first version was digitally printed, but I was not fully satisfied. It was nice, but I wanted to create the best available, that's why the complete process has been changed to ink-silkscreen printing. This is much more time consuming compared to digital printing: stencil for each color, color mixing, screen print one by one, and color by color.
The result: more vivid colors, better coverage.

2. Another good news, beside the quality improvement: I am not going to change the price.

3. "Oh my God, when this will be ready?" The answer is: the entire batch is ready, I am going to send out next week.

I have very few left, and that's it, this is the first and last batch. When they are gone they are gone.

Have a great weekend!
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Hi,

how much for one sent to france ??