(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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  • 11,721 posts
  • 671 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by blardo
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There are 11,721 posts in this topic. You are on page 71 of 235.
#3501 5 years ago

I am trying to find the Rotor Lock part number 03-8844.
Is it really sold out everywhere?

Quoted from Davi:

You have 4 options:

Start a wanted ad. Some guys still have some NOS. If you are lucky, you can get it for reasonable $. Or crazy high price.

Ebay. Last time I have seen $150 for 1 piece.

Repro. You never know when it will happen.

I can also help with 3D printed version.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/50#post-4055369

Thanks Davi, and thanks for your efforts with making the 3d printed ones.
It is so strange that a part like that hasn`t been remade.

#3502 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How do you get in contact with him?

And here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/miwi123
He has few pieces left.

#3503 5 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Thanks Davi, and thanks for your efforts with making the 3d printed ones.
It is so strange that a part like that hasn`t been remade.

Somebody made a repro run few years ago, that's also sold out.

#3504 5 years ago

I just Sent him a PM, Thanks Davi!

#3505 5 years ago

Tried to install a set of art blades tonight and failed miserably. There's not enough of a gap between my playfield and the edge to get it far enough down without it getting stuck, even with the wet-back trick. There didn't seem to be a position I could move the playfield where it wasn't in the way. Wasting so much money is really depressing.

#3506 5 years ago
Quoted from Maide:

Tried to install a set of art blades tonight and failed miserably. There's not enough of a gap between my playfield and the edge to get it far enough down without it getting stuck, even with the wet-back trick. There didn't seem to be a position I could move the playfield where it wasn't in the way. Wasting so much money is really depressing.

Put them back onto the bacing material wet as best as you can.

Remove the playfield and try again.

3m 77 spray adhesive will refresh the glue if necessary.

Any creases or wrinkles or small tears will rub out with a brayer.

All is not lost until you give up.

#3507 5 years ago

I need to replace some #89 flasher bulbs which are on wedge base. I am having difficulty finding them. Is the replacement #906 bulbs, like listed here: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=32 Thank you!

#3508 5 years ago
Quoted from Fremen:

I need to replace some #89 flasher bulbs which are on wedge base. I am having difficulty finding them. Is the replacement #906 bulbs, like listed here: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=32 Thank you!

No the 906 is a larger bulb and not the same.
All of my #89 bulbs have a bayonet base, what is this for?

#3509 5 years ago
Quoted from Fremen:

I need to replace some #89 flasher bulbs which are on wedge base. I am having difficulty finding them. Is the replacement #906 bulbs, like listed here: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=32 Thank you!

#89 is bayonet
#906 is wedge base

Few #906 is required, like under Eternal Life insert

IJ flash (resized).JPGIJ flash (resized).JPG
#3510 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

#89 is bayonet
#906 is wedge base
Few #906 is required, like under Eternal Life insert[quoted image]

Is there a led replacement for #906 bulb?

#3512 5 years ago

A few of the flashers i am looking at are the dogfight hurry up, and the left and right ramp bulbs under the green plastic. In my manual they are all listed as #89. And they are definitely all wedge bases. look about the same as the eternal life. Maybe i looked at my manual wrong and they are #906

#3513 5 years ago
Quoted from Fremen:

A few of the flashers i am looking at are the dogfight hurry up, and the left and right ramp bulbs under the green plastic. In my manual they are all listed as #89. And they are definitely all wedge bases. look about the same as the eternal life. Maybe i looked at my manual wrong and they are #906

The number is often written on the base of the bulb but sadly not always.
I think you're looking for the number 906 bulbs they have the wedge bases.

Get the LEDs have a longer duty cycle and run much cooler and don't destroy your game like hot incandescents will.

#3514 5 years ago

#indiana-jones Lighted Magnetic Hinge Cover available- Looks great in Yellow (best price) or custom order 7 other colors for 10 extra.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1032-lighted-pinball-mods/01739-indiana-jones-lighted-magnetic-hinge-covers-yellow-wpc

The easiest mod you'll ever install- have lit up, customized hinges installed in minutes:

hinges line up (resized).jpghinges line up (resized).jpgindiana-jones-hinge-cover-text (resized).jpgindiana-jones-hinge-cover-text (resized).jpg
#3515 5 years ago

Bummed that the coveted Disneyland Indy is no longer. But still got myself a nice pin

BBA25763-C8AA-4BCA-B5CB-251D94C61C08 (resized).jpegBBA25763-C8AA-4BCA-B5CB-251D94C61C08 (resized).jpeg
#3516 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Bummed that the coveted Disneyland Indy is no longer. But still got myself a nice pin
[quoted image]

Wife and I have annual passes and it seems to pop up from time to time. Is it truly gone for sure? I thought we saw it briefly after the remodel of the bengal barbecue. I was there last week though and no dice. That is sad if it’s gone for good. Great Pin you have though!!

#3517 5 years ago

What is "no longer"? What was "no dice" last week? The attraction?????

#3518 5 years ago
Quoted from Duvall:

What is "no longer"? What was "no dice" last week? The attraction?????

The highly modified Indiana Jones pinball machine at the attraction in Disneyland Los Angeles

#3519 5 years ago

Im looking for a set of Indy cabinet decals (HEAD ONLY) for a display project for a customer...I found some on Ebay for $150 but wanted to see if there was a more reasonable source or if anybody might have any they want to part with?
Thanks

#3520 5 years ago

The last time I saw the Didneyland Indy (post remodel) it was on a floor with so much slope to it that one of the rear leg levelers was at least 7” tall!

#3521 5 years ago

skyrex yup I use to see it in the bengal bbq in the corner, it’s no where to be found. Maybe they are doing a playfield swap haha

#3522 5 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Im looking for a set of Indy cabinet decals (HEAD ONLY) for a display project for a customer...I found some on Ebay for $150 but wanted to see if there was a more reasonable source or if anybody might have any they want to part with?
Thanks

I think I have 1 head decal set left after my IJ restoration.
In case you can't find a set in US, contact me, I will give it to you for free.

#3523 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

I think I have 1 head decal set left after my IJ restoration.
In case you can't find a set in US, contact me, I will give it to you for free.

Mine has faded, I would love a free set Would even pay for them.

#3524 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

I think I have 1 head decal set left after my IJ restoration.
In case you can't find a set in US, contact me, I will give it to you for free.

#3525 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

I think I have 1 head decal set left after my IJ restoration.
In case you can't find a set in US, contact me, I will give it to you for free.

Very generous, I will continue to look around first and hit you up if I have no luck...thanks

#3526 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

skyrex yup I use to see it in the bengal bbq in the corner, it’s no where to be found. Maybe they are doing a playfield swap haha

It was the first Indy I ever saw. I remember how surprised I was when I got into this hobby and saw what the cabinet is supposed to look like!! The Disney one has a bamboo kind of jungle cruise look to the whole cabinet. I also remember once having to leave a free game to the kid standing next to me because our fast pass for the Indy ride was ready. lol

#3527 5 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Mine has faded, I would love a free set Would even pay for them.

Don't worry, I can ask for another set of head decals. Won't be too fresh next to your side decals?
20180901_125024 (resized).jpg20180901_125024 (resized).jpg

#3528 5 years ago

Hi All - Is anyone aware if a protector has been made for underneath the mini playfield to protect the exposed electronics? I know someone made a clear plastic one for TZ but I'm wondering about IJ. On my recently acquired machine it looks likes someone made a crude, makeshift one out of cardboard. All help is appreciated. Thanks

#3529 5 years ago

color lcd is in , holy sh#t what a difference . now i want one for all my pins .

2018-09-02 10.00.22 (resized).jpg2018-09-02 10.00.22 (resized).jpg
#3530 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Don't worry, I can ask for another set of head decals. Won't be too fresh next to your side decals?
[quoted image]

Strange thing is that my cabenit is quite ok. It is the original version and looks really good. Just the headbox is faded. Btw in the row you will never see this. Just not plsce this one at th end of a row.

#3531 5 years ago
Quoted from Staf:

color lcd is in , holy sh#t what a difference . now i want one for all my pins .
[quoted image]

Im up to 8 ColorDmd's. There addicting.

#3532 5 years ago

I bought a new motor for my POA. Was about to solder the leds last night when I noticed this red marker on the motor. Is that telling me the red wire goes there?

On my old motor, the red wire was soldered to the opposite tab. However, the old motor did not have any red markings on it. Thanks!
8C495755-DF6F-4AB8-9D49-C37F094C95D9 (resized).jpeg8C495755-DF6F-4AB8-9D49-C37F094C95D9 (resized).jpeg

#3533 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I bought a new motor for my POA. Was about to solder the leds last night when I noticed this red marker on the motor. Is that telling me the red wire goes there?
On my old motor, the red wire was soldered to the opposite tab. However, the old motor did not have any red markings on it. Thanks!
[quoted image]

An old teardown pic.

Screenshot_20180902-191154_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20180902-191154_Gallery (resized).jpg
#3534 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

An old teardown pic.[quoted image]

That is the way my original was. The new motor has a red marker on it. That picture was taken when the playfield was upside down. Here is another pic. Notice the red marker is on the right side compared to the old motor...Is thar really a marker? Or it telling me to put the red wire there?

A9EDB9F5-E0B7-48C4-95F8-33E730048170 (resized).jpegA9EDB9F5-E0B7-48C4-95F8-33E730048170 (resized).jpeg
#3535 5 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That is the way my original was. The new motor has a red marker on it. That picture was taken when the playfield was upside down. Here is another pic. Notice the red marker is on the right side compared to the old motor...Is thar really a marker? Or it telling me to put the red wire there?
[quoted image]

You can't screw up the motor nor the control board. Opposite connection means opposite rotation (clockwise, counter-clockwise), reverse the cables in this case.

#3536 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

You can't screw up the motor nor the control board. Opposite connection means opposite rotation (clockwise, counter-clockwise), reverse the cables in this case.

Thanks!

#3537 5 years ago

I just replace my Power Driver Board, Fliptronics Board and both Flipper Opto boards with Rottendog boards and DAMN!!! It's like I have a brand new game. Flipper strength is amazing, lighting on the game is much brighter and the game plays lightning fast.

With the color DMD,new Rottendog boards, Pinsound boards and Endprodukt's mix, Indian Jones is really over the top now. I've owned this game for over 10 years and all this new technology for this game has made it like a brand new game.

I love you IJ Williams

QSS

#3538 5 years ago

I just bought an IJ from a nice and reputable fellow pinside member sight unseen aside from pics. This is my first 90’s pin. So, the question is, what did I just get myself into? I’ve got some reading to do! Any words of advice are welcome. Things to check, parts to order, etc. It already has a colordmd and pinsound board.

A

#3539 5 years ago

WPC devices are a reliable and robust generation.
The Powerdriver likes to be broken because of outgassed capacitors (the big ones) and burnt GI plugs.
Especially in the Indy crow's feet are very ugly and difficult to clean at Marion and Willie.
Check if the device is complete.
Indy is a heavy pinball machine, check cabinet for broken parts and make sure the button still is firmly glued.
If it has the lost plastic, the POA moves, the ruin is damaged and jackpot board is installed (prototype speaker panel).
Under the POA is an open diode, this causes short circuits in the switch matrix. Check the DMD for failures in test mode.
PinSound can cause problems if the Powerdriver does not deliver a stable 5 volts, then there are resets during game play.
My suggestion is for PinSound and Color-DMD - separate power supply.
Check Software revision... latest is L7.
Check all the fuses if they a correct and in the right place.
Often the opto electronic can cause faulty game play, check ball throughs and Idol rotor lock.

#3540 5 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

WPC devices are a reliable and robust generation.
The Powerdriver likes to be broken because of outgassed capacitors (the big ones) and burnt GI plugs.
Especially in the Indy crow's feet are very ugly and difficult to clean at Marion and Willie.
Check if the device is complete.
Indy is a heavy pinball machine, check cabinet for broken parts and make sure the button still is firmly glued.
If it has the lost plastic, the POA moves, the ruin is damaged and jackpot board is installed (prototype speaker panel).
Under the POA is an open diode, this causes short circuits in the switch matrix. Check the DMD for failures in test mode.
PinSound can cause problems if the Powerdriver does not deliver a stable 5 volts, then there are resets during game play.
My suggestion is for PinSound and Color-DMD - separate power supply.
Check Software revision... latest is L7.
Check all the fuses if they a correct and in the right place.
Often the opto electronic can cause faulty game play, check ball throughs and Idol rotor lock.

Thanks.

#3541 5 years ago

Finally!! Bought this five weeks ago and just got it today. It was hard to be patient but I sent it to my local guy so he could go through it, make sure everything was running well and put in the color dmd before I got it. Simply amazing!! I talked myself out of this for years but now that it has landed so glad I talked myself into it.

0BC765A6-1AD5-4D40-BFA0-CC6DBBF8DE44 (resized).jpeg0BC765A6-1AD5-4D40-BFA0-CC6DBBF8DE44 (resized).jpeg4B36D882-01E5-4230-B145-79F1B223E4F9 (resized).jpeg4B36D882-01E5-4230-B145-79F1B223E4F9 (resized).jpeg
#3542 5 years ago

Hi All - Just curious... how much of a pain is it to install the lost plastic? Thanks for your feedback in advance.

#3543 5 years ago

Hey gac it’s not that bad, the captive ball is the only area that can be a pain. It took me about 30 minutes to install. You will Have to adjust the the up post on the rear rap that is right before the poa entrance, due to the thickness added by the lost plastic. But it’s well Worth the installation time.

#3544 5 years ago

Generic flipper question, but it happened on my IJTPA so I'm posting here.

I've been playing with no issues until very recently. Over the last few games the right flipper has been losing power until now it has stopped working altogether. Breaking the beam on the opto board with a screwdriver does not register in switch test. The problem stays on the right even when you swap opto boards. Left flipper is good and strong, so not a fuse.

Any thoughts?

#3545 5 years ago

Reseat the connectors. It sounds like you have a wiring issue, especially if the switch test doesn't register when switching opto boards.

#3546 5 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Generic flipper question, but it happened on my IJTPA so I'm posting here.
I've been playing with no issues until very recently. Over the last few games the right flipper has been losing power until now it has stopped working altogether. Breaking the beam on the opto board with a screwdriver does not register in switch test. The problem stays on the right even when you swap opto boards. Left flipper is good and strong, so not a fuse.
Any thoughts?

Swap the flipper boards to see if the problem moves to the other side first, to see if it's a board problem.

If it remains the same, check the wires for a break or looseness on a idc connector.

#3547 5 years ago

I have some free time this weekend and started working on burned up connections. On J121 can someone tell me what pin the orange wire is located?

Thanks

Screenshot_20180908-141101_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20180908-141101_Gallery (resized).jpg

#3548 5 years ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

I have some free time this weekend and started working on burned up connections. On J121 can someone tell me what pin the orange wire is located?
Thanks
[quoted image]

This is what Mine looks like....I don’t see orange wires on mine tho
8982FBE0-BA4E-4400-82CD-F593B6A0024E (resized).png8982FBE0-BA4E-4400-82CD-F593B6A0024E (resized).png

#3549 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Swap the flipper boards to see if the problem moves to the other side first, to see if it's a board problem.
If it remains the same, check the wires for a break or looseness on a idc connector.

Swapped the boards already with no change, also played around with the connectors. I would understand this approach if they just stopped working, but not if they gradually lost power over a few games.

#3550 5 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Swapped the boards already with no change, also played around with the connectors. I would understand this approach if they just stopped working, but not if they gradually lost power over a few games.

Check the fliptronics board in backbox. Mine slowly died out. It was an original. I got a new rottendog and all better since.

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