Second question....

Only had the pin for a week but twice, in the middle of the game the machine has simply rebooted. I take it this is not normal . Nothing coming up as an error. Any clue where to look for the root cause?

Thanks !

Resets on indy frequent and other wpc's happen when they're plugged in to extension cords or in outlets with other games plugged in.

Thanks Nik - you are right this machine is plugged into an extension cord. So the solution I guess is just to plug it directly to the wall....

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Has anyone used the transparent rubber rings from pinball life on IJ? I was thinking of trying them but they do not sell a 3 1/2 inch size just a 3 and 4 inch.

Also has anyone come out with urethane rings in different colors/sizes, I don't mean the flipper rings.

I have no experience with shaker motors but I feel it could be risky in terms of damaging the machine.
I ledded mine out and reckon its a great improvement. Just use them judiciously. You do miss out on the fading effects - but did it have many anyway?

Try reseating connectors J101 and J114 before you do anything else.

I removed the extension lead, and plugged it straight into the wall socket but no luck. I can 100% reproduce the issue of the resets if I put the table in switch test mode and activate both flippers. It will reset most of the time .

I'll take a look at J101 and J114 - maybe they are loose from the relocation. Failing that its over to the guide bdaily posted. Had a read through and this is all new territory to me.

Reseated J101 and J114 as recommended and tested it again. This time it didn't reset!!! They both looked properly connected but I removed and replugged to be sure. A bit too late to do proper testing as I don't want to wake anyone up but will try tomorrow.

Thanks!

There are many things that can cause resets. The Pinwiki link above, lists a good many of them.

While you are resetting J101, look at the connector and the header pins on the board where it plugs in. If you see any discoloration on either, it's probably time to replace both.

Also, check your voltage at the power outlet and make sure it is what it's supposed to be. I'm not sure what yours is in Hong Kong, 220V?

If all this checks out, measure the voltage on the 5volt test point on the power driver board.

Yes, 220v over here. I've read through that guide and will start working through it. Will be a learning curve for me. How hard is it to replace those connectors?

Does anyone have a list of how many of each type of LEDS are required to go from regular bulbs to LED? thanks.

Code Item Qty Price Grand Total
25-PACK-1LEDT10NWBTF *25 PACK* - SAVE- WARM and NATURAL WHITE SUPERIOR LED DOMED "BULLET" BULB $.29 Each - Frosted - #555 Wedge T10 - Natural White
2 $7.25 $14.50
25-PACK-2SMD2835BA49SSFT
*25 PACK* - SAVE - 2 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR AND FROSTED LENS
- Frosted - #44/#47 Bayonet - Sunlight White
1 $16.25 $16.25
2SMD2835T10YFT
Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR or FROSTED LENS
- Frosted - #555 Wedge - Yellow
18 $0.69 $12.42
2SMD2835BA49SYFT
Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR or FROSTED LENS
- Frosted - #44/#47 Bayonet - Yellow
3 $0.69 $2.07
2SMD2835T10NWFT
Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR or FROSTED LENS
- Frosted - #555 Wedge - Natural White
18 $0.69 $12.42
2SMD2835T10SFT
Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR or FROSTED LENS
- Frosted - #555 Wedge - Sunlight White
13 $0.69 $8.97
2SMD2835T10GFT
Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR or FROSTED LENS
- Frosted - #555 Wedge - Green
6 $0.69 $4.14
2SMD2835T10AFT
Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR or FROSTED LENS
Twin 2835 - Frosted - #555 Wedge - Orange/Amber
2 $0.69 $1.38
2SMD2835BA49SGFT
Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with CLEAR or FROSTED LENS
- Frosted - #44/#47 Bayonet - Green
1 $0.69 $0.69
1SMDT10RFT 1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 BULB - Frosted - #555 Wedge T10 - Red
2 $0.69 $1.38
1SMDBA49SRFT 1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 BULB - Frosted - #44/#47 Bayonet - Red
2 $0.69 $1.38

Subtotal: $75.60
Tax: $0.00

That order left me a little short (maybe like 8 bulbs iirc). I know at least 1 more 555 green is needed. A yellow bayonet and a green bayonet. I went sunlight white for my GI you could go warm white but I wouldn't go natural white.

I wouldn't recommend using a yellow LED in a yellow insert. Every one I have used made the insert look dull, almost brown. I would suggest a warm white.

However, I have not tried the yellow Comet LED that you have listed.

How does the sunlight white compare to the warm white?

Thanks Nik, TrainH2o - that is very useful!

Sorry, one further question - Nik - where did you order those from?

LEDs look great. Mine came with a shaker motor that I immediately removed. Hated it in IJ. And I love the shaker motor in my acdc

Looking at the descriptions, they look like Cometpinball.com.

I just put a shaker in my IJ and love it. Why did you not like it?

Anxious to hear the pros and cons on the shaker. I was going to put one in, but it doesn't sound like it's utilized well or often enough. Opinions?

It is used a lot. The gun, both ramps, captive ball, each time the relic turns as well other modes. When I added mine I had to tune it down so it wasn't so strong. Just adjusting the weights. I have one in my ST:TNG and it is way better in IJ. If anyone does not like the shaker, it must be set up wrong because it runs very well in IJ.

Do you still have it?

I'd be interested if you did, PM me,

I ordered from comet and the yellow looks fine but he's right. A tad duller than the rest, I recommend switching to any white for those, if I could go back on it I would for just a tad more umpfh or I'd do orange because comet's orange is rad. The sunlight is good, it's a good halfway point if you think warm looks a bit too yellow but natural too white. I have natural whites in my junkyard and it's just too artificial and the sunlight doesnt do that. I did use natural whites in the backbox just because my repop translite is too warm in color and the cheapo led's are weak. If your trans is original I'd do sunlight or warm because they are usually faded and cool in color.

I'll take some pics when I get a shot. Indy is nearing done for me. Finally got it totally playable. just replacing sleeves and springs here and there, making switch adjustments, and adding mods.

Is there instructions somewhere on doing this install?

Picked up my IJ this weekend. Haven't stopped playing it. Fun pin!!

PM sent

Awesome thank you.

Here's an interesting question: If I send my gun out to get nickel plated, is there any way to still trigger the plunge while I'm waiting for the gun to get back, or will it basically disable the machine? Trying to figure out a way to have my cake and eat it, too! (I haven't taken it apart yet, so I'm not sure!) Thanks...

Would you mind to share them with me too?

Thanks.

I suppose you could always just close the switch contacts with your hand, or rig something up. It just won't be pretty.

Was very easy. Here are photo instructions. http://mrtn.smugmug.com/Other/2010-12-19/15136381_xGrPrd#!i=1131676525&k=JWRrh6d

I assume you have the pinbits with the included shaker board? Before you mount the motor you may want to adjust weights otherwise the motor is very strong. If the weights are parallel you get the most. So you can slow it down by off setting one weight so it is not parallel.

Nope nothing yet, just beginning to look into this project.

Was cheaper at pinbits. Other sites had it marked about $100 higher. http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_29&products_id=494

I'm working on a Pinsoundboard reorchestration for Indy. If anyone is interested, you can check out the first clips here: http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=9#entry23

If you don't know what's Pinsounboard go to http://pinsound.org/

Hope you guys like it!

The shaker was possibly set up wrong. I just didn't like the sound or feel. I didn't feel organic like in my acdc. I sold the shaker. Love the machine !

It also needs the board that is designed for IJ and needs to be jacked into the right locations in order to get all the modes. Each machine as well its location its mounted will have different results. But I had to really tinker with the weights to get a real indy rumble vs a cement compactor. lol

SWEEET! I will have my board in December. I bought it for my ST:25th "which isn't ready yet" because I have a failing soundboard. But I do plan on pulling it out a few times to swap them in other pins to hear the awesome work people are doing. Wish I could buy one for all my pins but... 1 will have to do for now.

This is my absolute grail pin that I will be buried in. There a crapload of mods out there for this pin. What is the best in terms of effects while playing. I see there is a shaker, what about some of the other ones that are hanging out on Ebay...blimp, plane with propeller, ark??

Top of my head:

- DMD panel light
- Color DMD
- LED pop rings
- Chrome IJ theme cap decals
- Idol / Stone topper
- Color changing LED behind the captive ball
- Green rubbers for the slings "look like vines"
- Super bands
- Post LED's "Flash when slings are hit"
- Mini Idol on the center post on the mini adventure PF.
- Mirror blades or Decals
- Shaker
- Lost plastic
- Lost plastic / Bridge lights *(DIY)
- Propeller motor *(DIY)
- Pistol grip *(DIY)
- Coin door decal
- Chrome door?
- Pinovators Headphone jack "also for external speakers"
- LED's behind the relic.*(DIY)
- Custom painted planes / new models
- IJ Saw Blade
- IJ Tank
- IJ Motorcycle
- IJ Grail
- IJ Blimp
- IJ Ark
- Metal decals "stone"
- Pinsound board with new audio

Anybody have any experience with the Pinsound board? I'd love to have the original soundtrack playing rather than that MIDI crap. Do you just upload it to the board or is it an involved process?

(7) Step Quick Start Guide
http://www.pinsound.org/quickstart-guide/

PinSound Studio Demo

That is pretty extensive off the top of your head! Thank you very much. I did get the color DMD and it is awesome. You listed some that sound like I need to get them on my machine.
Thank you

Not sure why I never posted this to the IJ club. Topper I made.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-custom-idol-stone-topper

topper.jpg
302686.jpg

It's very easy to use. I own one and will get more. Please check out www.pinsound.org for more information.

My reorchestration will use all OST and reorchestrated original tracks that are not from the movies (but on the pin). Check the link I posted for an example.

Some progress on the Indy Reorchestration: http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=9#entry24

Most of the music is done. After that I'll go for the speech.

Greetings IJ aficionados.

I have a very nice IJ which I picked up two years ago. I've added the color DMD (which has got to be one of the best Color DMD deployments in my collection).

I do seem to have one problem which is air-balls from flipper shots. I've tried adding deadening foam behind a few targets. These air-balls seem to more commonly occur somewhere around the center bank of drop target, but also around other posts and targets mid-playfield.

Does anyone have experience you you could relate in attenuating air-balls on Williams IJ?

-Nate

I get a lot of air-balls on my IJ too

Air balls are very common in ij. Nothing worse then losing a ball when it flies over the left wire form and drains. Although I swear a couple times I thought it launched a new ball like the code knew it was an air ball

Very funny...I came on here to post exactly the same problem about the air balls off the center targets, especially when the ball has just come down off the ramp onto your flipper. I've decided to just put plastic protectors on everything so I don't have to worry so much. Doesn't seem like there's much you can do with a drop target. Flippers are at factory strength, and if I tweak those back, I'm afraid I won't get the ball up those steep ramps. It is what it is...

There is code that kicks a ball into play to compensate for a quick drain after a target is hit. It's there because of the air ball issue.