I also hand painted the red rails on the mini playfield and added bricks inside. I also added greenery and some tiny branches to create a more realistic look. I painted the rails in a yellowish color to match Lior’s ramp mod I still gotta do a few more touch ups to it. I’m also adding a cool rope bridge to the mini playfield rails. Please excuse my choice of colors, just my personal taste. I really think it matches the mini playfield colors.
Lior is supposed to make new mini playfield rails soon so I might change my current rails for his. I’m sure his will look a lot better

I just want to finish my restoration! It’s been over a year!

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I've been communicating with KornFreak28 on one possible solution to this. I've the material to make an LED harness, one that is PCB-less. There is really nothing to the circuit (couple of diodes, resistors and LEDs). It can hopefully be built using shrink tubing and it may even be able to be put inside the plane... but we need to prototype it first... dunno how it will all work/fit. In the next couple of days I will put together a prototype and if it looks like it will work, I will donate the completed harnesses to be installed in the model(s) for whomever wants them. Please give me a couple of days... I WILL do this, I think KornFreak28's models are awesome and would like to see them completed.

Awesome Thanks for sharing your work with the group

That’s great,thanks for offering that!

Fremen is also willing to send in his original light board to help the cause. SheP is willing to buy a New light board. More updates to follow. Really trying to make this work....

I was wondering about what Ricochet is saying as I saw someone else do something similar. I think this is a great solution to the board issue.

This thread details different no board solutions:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-scale-me109-plane-mod

Now how about incorporating this mod as well? Sounds like a very cool idea.

Oh I'd love to but I don't want to get in the way of this, I'm just not ready yet. I've still got some mechanical details to work out and have to get some parts made.

I think we only need to place LED's and wires inside the plane. Other elements (like diodes, resistors, universal PCB) can be placed under the playfield. Plenty of space there, easy access.

Totally with you on that! There are only 3 additional components. The PCB originally was designed to have both LEDs independently controlled... but is disabled by a jumper as they are both controlled together. This eliminates two parts (a diode and a 0 ohm resistor). So we are talking two resistors and a diode. I'm going to embed them in the cable assembly so they don't really need to be in the plane. They are just so minuscule I can't see them being a problem no matter where they are put.

We can also play with different types of LEDs instead of those bland standard reds.

Update: Been talking to Fremen and he is going to drill out his light board and send it in. He is taking the prototype plane that is 100% done. The plan is to install his light board on the plane and ship it out. I want him to install the plane on his game and hook it up so we all can see it working on an actual machine not just on a 9V battery. I can't do that right now because I'm still putting my machine back together. I think this is a great idea by the way.

I will begin work on Fremen's Bi-plane during this time and ship it out asap. Then he will install and hook it up and show us some pics of the planes in action. At this point, you can decide whether to send in your light board or try Ricochet's lights or bypass the lights and just have the prop spin. Once I'm done with Fremen's planes I will continue with Hawk's planes and go down in the order I got the PM's after the initial list was cancelled. I will contact each one of you to make plane and payment arrangements when it's your turn. I don't expect for anybody to cancel on me anymore. If you sent me a second PM assuring me you are fully committed, I expect you will keep your word. Thanks!

Here is the link to this board: http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/indiana-jones-i/8326/2-led-flasher-board-for-indiana-jones?c=2204
Does not include wires. KornFreak, is it an option for folks to have this new board sent to you instead?

They do not deliver to the USA

I’m sure we could find someone that could get these for us and ship them to the US if this is the best option.

Probably don’t ship to US because of cost but if we are getting several it may be worth asking about.

Started working on the first planes last night. Initial painting of the Bi-plane is done. I Still got to do a few more touch ups, clear coating and lots of details! I also worked on the tail of the prototype plane. Still needs one more coat and clear. For the people interested, I wanted to touch base on more important things. When I did my own planes, I used a 200 ohm resistor to protect the motor and used a 9V battery to test the planes. The result was a nice medium-speed propeller spin. I consulted about this to make dang sure before selling these planes to you guys. Apparently, the 200 ohm resistor may not be enough to handle the 20V coming from the flash drive. I did a test last night to replicate 18V, much closer to the 20V output by the flash drive than the initial 9V test. The results were as expected....The plane almost flew off my hands!!!!

So now, I will place an order for a 470 ohm resistor to counter the 20V output. This means, removing my 220 resistor from my own planes and installing the 470 instead! I'll be doing this to all the planes including the prototype plane that belongs to Fremen. I really don't want to rush this part. I want to produce a quality item here. I want the motors to last as long as they possibly can for you guys. I'll keep you posted
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Thanks for sharing the update with the group

Appreciate the update as well and the attention to detail you are providing. I would have liked to be a fly on the wall to see the overpowered plane

You are most welcome guys! While we wait for the 470 resistor to arrive, the plan is to start working on all the fighter planes I have on hand. The fighter plane is the most time consuming since it has to be gutted and modified to fit all the components inside. I'll also do paint and clear. Once the new resistors arrive, I will put my own planes to the test and share the results. I'll like to share a video but I honestly don't know how to do that here on Pinside. Once testing clears (which is the most important part) then and only then I'll start rolling them out. The Bi-plane on the other hand, is more user friendly as it does not require any gutting or modifications and should not take as long as the fighter plane does to assemble them.

LOL...That plane was on steroids last night!

Thanks for the update!

Please note, that your test is based on DC 18V to a DC motor. 20V AC at flasher works differently in this case (short impulse and not DC). My recommendation is to buy few more cheap resistors, in order to find optimal value for this motor.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-biplane-propeller-mod-low-budget#post-688615

Yes, I got a few more resistors to put them to the test. We'll get this right one way or another. This will be tested until we are all satisfied here.

I was partially right:
flashers are DC. My bad.

LED wiring harnesses for the fighter planes are coming guys... I couldn't find my supply of .093 pins/sockets and I wanted to get two different LED types... 5mm and 3mm(super bright). I will hook it up to my machine so you can see what they output for light.

Hang tight.

(...oh and my machine finally decided to take a dump... I need to rebuild the 5V power supply)

I have another update: So last night I decided to put the resistors to the test. I initially started with one 200 ohm 5 watt resistor. When I tested at 18V with just one resistor, the propeller even blew air in my face! The tiny motor is wicked strong! So I started by adding 2 more resistors in series. The prop spin was a little less but still way too high at 600 ohms. Then I added one more...A lot better....Then I added a 5th resistor (1000 ohms) and I finally got the perfect spin.

A really nice medium to slow spin that you can actually see the prop turning. It even gave me the forward and reverse effect sometimes you see on turning wheels and propellers. So looks like 1000 ohms 1 or 2 Watt resistor is the way to go. If anybody thinks I did something wrong, by all means let me know. This is how I'm going to move forward and how I feel comfortable the motor is going to perform the best.

My thinking is that in order to get the perfect effect during the game is to connect both planes to the right or left ramp flashers on top. This way both planes go on and off at the same time simulating a real chase. Instead of one plane going off and the other just sitting there. Not fun. This is only my suggestion.

Ricochet, it's cool if you only make one harness. We only need one to fit and test. Up to you though.
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Anybody know what type of screws are used to attach the idol bracket? Thanks!

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KornFreak28 yes they are short hex head wood screws, very similar to the ones used on the bottom of the playfield to attach switches

Thanks!

This is what you need exactly:
4608-01081-07
h-f #8X7/16 pl-hwh

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4608-01081-07

Scorpion LED harness for plane... it can be bent/twisted/glued ... whatever. Also can cut back on the heat shrink a bit for it to be a bit more flexible. I’ve the 3mm super bright LEDs... they put the original 5mm LEDs to shame! I’ve a vid to show how they look

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They look nice! Now I need to figure out how to attach them to the wings. Yeah the less heat shrink the better. They need to be super flexible. Very nice job indeed

Wow those lights look great! Can't wait to see if they can be incorporated into KornFreak28's Mod.

If they can be glued somehow, I Believe we have a great alternative for those not wanting to drill out their light boards. Fremen drilled his out and will be sending it in. New resistors are coming in as well

I've an idea to make this work. I've got some black 1/4" ABS stock... I will integrate some custom made led holders out of this material as part of the harness. ABS will glue nicely with either locktite or other plastic glue. It think this will work well.

Rev 2 of the LED harness coming ... I've got a busy week so this weekend.

Nice job! About the shrink wrap: I really think that if you can replicate the shape of the original harness using shrink wrap this might actually work. What are you doing differently to Rev 2? On my side, I already gutted the second fighter plane and it's ready for paint and clear. Just waiting on new resistors to put them to the test.

Rev 2 will have less heat shrink tubing (more flexibility) and I also want to incorporate the ABS LED mount/holders for rev 2. For whatever reason, thought I had the .062 connectors... I had .093!!! so I had to pick up a bunch ... those will be here today or tomorrow.

I would also like to build 2 of the Rev 2... one with 3mm and another with 5mm LEDs. Both are superbright with wide-angle flat top LEDs... I think for external mounting... the 5mm would be brightest ... but for integrating it within the plane... the 3mm is a better fit and plenty bright... but I'll leave that up to you and others to decide. These can be made to order... once you figure out what you want to do.

That's awesome! Yeah, do that so we can see which version fits best. What gauge wire are you using?

I'm using 26AWG (need to double check) but that's generally what I have on hand.

Work continues. For this particular Bi-plane I wanted to try something different. For my own Bi-plane I went for the matte clear look. For this one, I’m going with the glossy look. It will tone down when it fully dries but I think it’s looking great so far! I’ll begin work on the cool details tomorrow.

Fremen’s Fighter plane is ready pending his light board install and the red flag on the tail. I’ll begin work on his bi-plane as soon as it comes in.

The second fighter plane has been gutted and is about to enter the paint stage.
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Anyone install their jackpot panel yet? Did you pull the threaded inserts out of original panel to use existing hardware?

Disregard! I'm a moron, lol

Davi requested a picture of his light board panel installed and here it is in attract mode... fit perfectly and the jackpot board from Marco fit perfectly with no color washout/bleed through plastic.

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Cool! Thanks for picture!

Looks like this works with color LCD ? So I just need the jackpot board? How hard is it to install the light board

The board from Marco is LED and works with color dmd, think it was 29.95.

4 screws and small plug goes to j134 and larger to j138 lamp drivers. I think those were the two I used.

Pretty nice add on, activates with the flashers during game and attract mode and stay lit when you complete the associated jackpot award.

Cut my own decals today for the planes! Lots of work but I think these are going to look really nice
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Nice work!

Thanks just confirming you have a color LCD and not LED right?

Works on both. I have the LCD

Tons of black avatars