IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,776 posts
  • 331 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by CoPinfan
  • Topic is favorited by 150 Pinsiders

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There are 3776 posts in this topic. You are on page 65 of 76.
#3201 3 months ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

Yes I too was one of the beta testers. It worked for me, no more ticking.
I don't have the swordsman gun shot sound....but have all the jackpots. I'm not worried about it anymore, sounds pretty damn clear and loud. I'm using the better version now.

when does the swordsman gun shot sound go off again? exactly after what shot?

#3202 3 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

when does the swordsman gun shot sound go off again? exactly after what shot?

I believe it was after you find Marion and either hit the start mode hole or pull the gun trigger. Once you find Marion, it shows Indy and the swordsman on the DMD. Getting the mode start hole is worth more (20 million) vs. pulling the trigger (2 million). I am fairly certain the original Legacy files had a gunshot.

#3203 3 months ago

Quick update about IJ wooden panels: panels are ready to send. Next week I am going to buy specific boxes, and contact buyers about payment.
A big thanks to TractorDoc, he will take care of shipping in US.

#3204 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Quick update about IJ wooden panels: panels are ready to send. Next week I am going to buy specific boxes, and contact buyers about payment.
A big thank you to TractorDoc, he will take care of shipping in US.

YAY! I cant wait to get my set of 2.

#3205 3 months ago

Going to take a chance with this IJ and pick it up tomorrow. Right now its resetting and can not play it. I will drop off the boards and have them repair and install NVRAM. There are a few GI connectors that are melted. I have been researching where to buy cabinet decals but have not found any.

#3206 3 months ago

The pin keeps resetting.....I will have the boards repaired by Ardvark pinball. Not sure what to do with the cabinet right now.

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#3207 3 months ago

Congrats on IJ! One of my favorite pins of all time. One thing you might try before you pull the boards out is to simply unplug/replug J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the CPU. Might be a long shot, but it worked for me a couple of times in the past. Resets aren't always due to a bad cap or bridge rectifier.

#3208 3 months ago

Restore the cabinet and make sure that the powerdriver will get new capacitors by refurbish.
Next to burned GI-connectors they are responsible for instable 5 Volt support that ends in unexpected resets.
Your Indy looks exactly like my Pin before I started the restoration - good luck.

#3209 3 months ago

Thanks everyone for your input on why its resetting. I will report my findings before sending the boards out for repairs. Im very lucky to have Ardvark pinball only 1 hour from my house. This person does awesome work and is very knowledgeable with pins.

If I can find the cabinet decals I will repair it. If you look at the one side of the cabinet someone drilled a hole in and installed a metal plug.

#3210 3 months ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

Thanks everyone for your input on why its resetting. I will report my findings before sending the boards out for repairs. Im very lucky to have Ardvark pinball only 1 hour from my house. This person does awesome work and is very knowledgeable with pins.
If I can find the cabinet decals I will repair it. If you look at the one side of the cabinet someone drilled a hole in and installed a metal plug.

Holes are an easy fix with bondo. That machine needs a complete restoration IMO.

Find your decals, strip the machine down, bondo and sand the cabinet, clean, polish, tumble or replace metal parts, Clean the wire harnesses, clean the pcb boards, restore the playfield and you are in business.

#3211 3 months ago

Awesome! Great project

#3212 3 months ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

Congrats on IJ! One of my favorite pins of all time. One thing you might try before you pull the boards out is to simply unplug/replug J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the CPU. Might be a long shot, but it worked for me a couple of times in the past. Resets aren't always due to a bad cap or bridge rectifier.

Dude! My TZ just started to do this badly and of course you assume the worst. I had a new PDB in a shopping cart (to hold me over until I could get my original overhauled...) But I saw your mention of this and thought "I better try it before I blow $300." I unplugged and reseated those two (plus in the case of TZ the Z connector) and I'll be damn if that did not fix it!!!

Thank you paul_from_gilroy !!!!

#3213 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Finally, ready for assembly
New inserts, screen printed layers, clearcoated, and cured for 3 months.

Rock&Roll!!!
End of restoration.

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#3214 3 months ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

Congrats on IJ! One of my favorite pins of all time. One thing you might try before you pull the boards out is to simply unplug/replug J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the CPU. Might be a long shot, but it worked for me a couple of times in the past. Resets aren't always due to a bad cap or bridge rectifier.

+1 on this advice. Trace power from the wall to the boards and reseat every connector. My IJ was resetting when I got it two years ago. Had gone through everything and the last thing I did a clean and reseat on was the fuse in the incoming power switch box. After that, I haven’t had a reset in 2 yrs. I couldn’t believe it could be that simple. Still might not be your issue, but doesn’t hurt to try. Good luck!!

#3215 3 months ago

Quick get that beauty out of the sun the decals are gonna fade! All kidding aside, beautiful!!

#3216 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Rock&Roll!!!
End of restoration.

Looks stunning! Congrats Davi!!!!

#3217 3 months ago

Indy in nature - really cool pictures.
Great job...

#3218 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Rock&Roll!!!
End of restoration.

Congrats on Resoration completa!
Now take it out of backyard arcade, although I hope you played a few games in backyard first.

#3219 3 months ago

Thank for nice words. Lot of work, lot of money and lot of time. Now I have all the source for playfield printing, cabinet decals, and so on. It was fun.
I have only minor memories about IJ. I have seen in one location only in my small hometown back to mid '90s. The pub was in a cellar, and IJ was in half-light, was very intimate. Maybe that's the reason I don't like to play when the room is bright.
I hope the pin is good, and will be a keeper.

I've played few games only, now I don't want to continue. The pin is too clean, and too brutal. Shots are super strong, airballs in every minute. I've installed plastic protectors, luckily only one has damaged - instead of plastic. Have to design airball protector, and consider to replace flipper coils to 11630. I don't want to destroy this beauty.

#3220 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Thank for nice words. Lot of work, lot of money and lot of time. Now I have all the source for playfield printing, cabinet decals, and so on. It was fun.
I have only minor memories about IJ. I have seen in one location only in my small hometown back to mid '90s. The pub was in a cellar, and IJ was in half-light, was very intimate. Maybe that's the reason I don't like to play when the room is bright.
I hope the pin is good, and will be a keeper.
I've played few games only, now I don't want to continue. The pin is too clean, and too brutal. Shots are super strong, airballs in every minute. I've installed plastic protectors, luckily only one has damaged - instead of plastic. Have to design airball protector, and consider to replace flipper coils to 11630. I don't want to destroy this beauty.

Davi, Did you have a hard time adjusting the mini playfield?

#3221 3 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Davi, Did you have a hard time adjusting the mini playfield?

That was not so hard (center and distance from back). I still feel some cluck by hand (the axis is a bit worned out by grub-screw), but this has no impact to gameplay.

#3222 3 months ago

I've got a question for all this esteemed club regarding the POA. I am getting an intermittent credit dot regarding the lower right roll-over switch on the POA. When this happens, I take the glass over, go into switch test, and manually click the switch until it starts clicking again. The switch will then work for a while (not that long) and then I'll get the credit dot again...wash, rinse, repeat. I plan to remove the POA soon to redo the LEDs (pain in the ass I know), so I figured I'll just order a new switch to have on hand when I will have the POA out and can change it.

The question: Is the bottom right roll-over switch the A-12688 or A-12688-1. I looked at the PDF manual online and I can't tell. It seems like one part number is for a left-hand mounted switch, and the other for a right but not sure which is which?

Bonus question: Are all LEDs just a huge pain in the ass to replace in the POA sockets or have folks have luck with a particular brand being less of tight fit?

Thanks!

#3223 3 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Bonus question: Are all LEDs just a huge pain in the ass to replace in the POA sockets or have folks have luck with a particular brand being less of tight fit?
Thanks!

a BIG YES! They are a HUGE PITA to remove and replace......and to make matters worse, you may have to switch and turn some leds around after the initial installation to make them work!

#3224 3 months ago

Of your going to replace leds on POA, o HIGLY recommend using bendies.. bendable leds, it results in much unwanted light spread and better looking inserts

#3225 3 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Of your going to replace leds on POA, o HIGLY recommend using bendies.. bendable leds, it results in much unwanted light spread and better looking inserts

I'm definitely going to use bendies. Any idea on the answer to my first question?

Thanks!

#3226 3 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I've got a question for all this esteemed club regarding the POA. I am getting an intermittent credit dot regarding the lower right roll-over switch on the POA. When this happens, I take the glass over, go into switch test, and manually click the switch until it starts clicking again. The switch will then work for a while (not that long) and then I'll get the credit dot again...wash, rinse, repeat. I plan to remove the POA soon to redo the LEDs (pain in the ass I know), so I figured I'll just order a new switch to have on hand when I will have the POA out and can change it.
The question: Is the bottom right roll-over switch the A-12688 or A-12688-1. I looked at the PDF manual online and I can't tell. It seems like one part number is for a left-hand mounted switch, and the other for a right but not sure which is which?
Bonus question: Are all LEDs just a huge pain in the ass to replace in the POA sockets or have folks have luck with a particular brand being less of tight fit?
Thanks!

Called Marcospecialties and got the answer. Technically, both are the same switch with different mounting plates. The mounting plate can be removed from the switch and I can just re-use the current mounting plate in the machine. For anyone ordering, the rollover switch part # (just the switch) is 5647-12693-19 and you'll need the 1N4004 diode as well because it does not come pre-installed to the switch.

Case closed on this one

#3227 3 months ago

I've got a pretty nice used speaker panel plastic up for sale for $60 plus shipping. I actually bought a new one and realized that it wasn't really all that necessary! I can take pics upon request but the panel is in great shape with a few slight scratches to the clear plastic that protects the dmd but only noticeable in certain light and not really at all during game play.

Also have a decent sheet of widebody glass with some scratches but not bad for $40 (local pickup only in Arlington VA. I've got a pretty nice used speaker panel plastic up for sale for $60 plus shipping. I actually bought a new one and realized that it wasn't really all that necessary! I can take pics upon request but the panel is in great shape with a few slight scratches to the clear plastic that protects the dmd but only noticeable in certain light and not really at all during game play.

Also have a decent sheet of widebody glass with some scratches but not bad for $40 (local pickup only in Arlington VA.

#3228 3 months ago

Wondering if anyone has any opinions:
I need to reduce the load from the GI backboard lighting to plug J120, so i am changing the backbox lights to LED. I really like the incandescent look better than LEDs to this point. I guess i would like to find an LED that is closest to the incandescent look. I have tried warm white (not good), and retro top warm white (better but ...). Any suggestions for me to try? thanx

#3229 3 months ago
Quoted from Fremen:

Wondering if anyone has any opinions:
I need to reduce the load from the GI backboard lighting to plug J120, so i am changing the backbox lights to LED. I really like the incandescent look better than LEDs to this point. I guess i would like to find an LED that is closest to the incandescent look. I have tried warm white (not good), and retro top warm white (better but ...). Any suggestions for me to try? thanx

Buy warm white flexible head LEDs from Comet. Bend them to shine the light onto the white wood instead of pointing straight ahead through the backglass. This will create a large warm diffuse area of light. Only use as many as you need to create the brightness level you desire.

#3230 3 months ago

100% done, ready to send.

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#3231 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

100% done, ready to send.

Thats purty Davi!
Big shout out and Thank You for TractorDoc handling US end of this journey.
And to Peter Wow, super stand up guy for making this effort happen!!!

#3232 3 months ago

guys - I'm looking to brighten the path of adventure. I see some guys did LEDs over there - can someone explain how or where I can buy a kit? Thanks

#3233 3 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - I'm looking to brighten the path of adventure. I see some guys did LEDs over there - can someone explain how or where I can buy a kit? Thanks

I was going to ask that same question when I get around to installing new lights. It will be a few weeks before I get to that.

#3234 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

100% done, ready to send.

Wow, those are beautiful! Are people going to spray paint them black? Seems like they would be cool with a stain/clearcoat.

#3235 3 months ago

I recently bought an IJ and I'm working on getting a jackpot light board setup. A previous owner was kind enough to have cut-out the shapes for the board, so I thought I'd just need to install the lights again.

However, when I went to install the board last night, I found that something was already plugged into J135. It was only using a single connector instead of the three for the jackpot board. It was wrapped around another single wire that was plugged into J136, which the manual says is for a coin door lamp. I tried following these two wires, but they started to get wrapped up in even more bundles and before long, it just gets lost in the bundle going down to the playfield. Does anyone know what this might have been running to? I'd have to check again, but I think it was a red and grey wire. The manual said there is supposed to be another red/grey wire in J133, but I'm pretty that one is present in the correct location

I have the old J135 wire unplugged for now and I haven't noticed anything different, so it's a mystery to me for now.

#3236 3 months ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Wow, those are beautiful! Are people going to spray paint them black? Seems like they would be cool with a stain/clearcoat.

Raw or painted - up to the user.

#3237 3 months ago
Quoted from Maide:

I recently bought an IJ and I'm working on getting a jackpot light board setup. A previous owner was kind enough to have cut-out the shapes for the board, so I thought I'd just need to install the lights again.
However, when I went to install the board last night, I found that something was already plugged into J135. It was only using a single connector instead of the three for the jackpot board. It was wrapped around another single wire that was plugged into J136, which the manual says is for a coin door lamp. I tried following these two wires, but they started to get wrapped up in even more bundles and before long, it just gets lost in the bundle going down to the playfield. Does anyone know what this might have been running to? I'd have to check again, but I think it was a red and grey wire. The manual said there is supposed to be another red/grey wire in J133, but I'm pretty that one is present in the correct location
I have the old J135 wire unplugged for now and I haven't noticed anything different, so it's a mystery to me for now.

J133, J134, and J135 are wired in parallel on the board, so, technically, you can use any one of those connectors. Sounds like somebody simply plugged the J134 cable into J135 on the board.

#3238 3 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - I'm looking to brighten the path of adventure. I see some guys did LEDs over there - can someone explain how or where I can buy a kit? Thanks

I have been working with and trying LED lights around the game for the last few months. For me personally i felt like even warm white LEDs were still too bright for most inserts on playfield. In areas that i wanted to brighten up, especially in the backboard GI and in the perimeter playfield lighting, the Retro LED lights from comet were the best. They are the closest to keeping the incandescent feel while still brightening areas up. Here are the retro LED bulbs i like:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/25-pack-1retroled.htm?1=1&CartID=1

#3239 3 months ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

J133, J134, and J135 are wired in parallel on the board, so, technically, you can use any one of those connectors. Sounds like somebody simply plugged the J134 cable into J135 on the board.

I do remember J134 being empty, so that's probably it. Thanks for the help!

#3240 3 months ago
Quoted from Fremen:

I have been working with and trying LED lights around the game for the last few months. For me personally i felt like even warm white LEDs were still too bright for most inserts on playfield. In areas that i wanted to brighten up, especially in the backboard GI and in the perimeter playfield lighting, the Retro LED lights from comet were the best. They are the closest to keeping the incandescent feel while still brightening areas up. Here are the retro LED bulbs i like:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/25-pack-1retroled.htm?1=1&CartID=1

Thanks. Specific to putting lights around the perimeter of the POA how do you install them? I've seen people do this..

#3241 3 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Specific to putting lights around the perimeter of the POA how do you install them?

I was curious about this too. When I had my PoA off I didn’t see an easy way to get lights in there. Do people drill holes in the wood to run them or ???

#3242 3 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks. Specific to putting lights around the perimeter of the POA how do you install them? I've seen people do this..

you may want to get some more advice on this, but what i believe you can do is replace one of the bulbs on the outside of the playfield under the POA. when you take the POA off you will notice a bulb on the playfield outside the left loop that is a general illumination bulb (i believe its a #44). you can replace that with a LED strip light, that will plug into the #44, such as this: http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-50-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-STRIPS-p/50smd6.3vstrip.htm
please double check on this, as i am not sure if this puts much extra strain on the plug this light comes out of.

1 week later
#3243 85 days ago

Does anybody know how to remove the switch from the button housing? Twist and pull? Just pull? It’s either stuck or I’m doing it wrong. Thanks!

84D729F3-405C-405F-B989-18235E6D7545 (resized).jpeg
#3244 85 days ago

The easiest way to explain it is to gently pry the two white fingers on either side from the button. Once you take it apart you'll see how it can pivot to slide in or out but you still need to pull the one finger away slightly. Will try and get a good picture.

#3245 85 days ago

Unless you're talking about removing the whole switch including lamp holder, if original: should just pull out straight but may need some strength. Newer ones are twist to remove.

Here's a good post that hopefully gives you a better idea.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/accessing-bulb-inside-start-button

#3246 85 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Unless you're talking about removing the whole switch including lamp holder, if original: should just pull out straight but may need some strength. Newer ones are twist to remove.
Here's a good post that hopefully gives you a better idea.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/accessing-bulb-inside-start-button

Yeah, I needed to remove the whole thing, I need to replace the lamp. So just pull straight up? Any pics are appreciated. I can also leave the original lamp and just remove the switch, I basically need to get it back into the cabinet. Thanks!

#3247 85 days ago

Looks like it's been in there for a while so assume an older one. So give a good pull separating the black body from the white switch. It actually snaps in and takes some force to remove. If you look at this post you can see what separates:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/accessing-bulb-inside-start-button#post-360543

#3248 85 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Looks like it's been in there for a while so assume an older one. So give a good pull separating the black body from the white switch. It actually snaps in and takes some force to remove. If you look at this post you can see what separates:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/accessing-bulb-inside-start-button#post-360543

Yep, original. I wish I could find a new one but seems like most of the usual vendors are out of stock. Edit: Just found it! Thanks!

#3249 85 days ago

Hi all,

I was asked to post in this thread... perhaps someone can help.

The idol lock fails at "cold start" (meaning it hasn't been used for, say, a couple of hours) as evidenced by the test-report. When this happens, the diag T14 test also confirms it fails and I can see the optos doing some funny stuff and switching erratically and the unit won't advance one position at a time as it should. The motor is fine. The power-up was done with the coin door closed. Once in daig mode and I exercise it, it returns to normal behavior (meaning I can advance it one stop at a time in diags) after about 30 seconds. Once it's normal, it stays normal as long as the machine is "warm"... I can power it off, wait a couple of hours, and come back and it's fine.

I cleaned the optos and they seem fine. That is, they're fine after a few minutes of running.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

#3250 84 days ago

Greetings IJ fans!!!

I'm really new to pinside. I've been in and out of collecting pinball machines for many years and over time I've trimmed my collection to just one machine...and it is IJ! This is one I will never let go.

I am preparing this fall, to tear down the machine for a complete restoration. I acquired the machine many years back (2010)... slowly over time I've purchased all new parts, mods, etc for a complete restoration.

I'm very excited to be here and excited to start this project.

- "See ya tomorrow Indiana Jones"

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