It awards you a Special

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Yea, I played with a lot of legos as a kid.
And I did go see the movie as an adult.

You have to have the game on quarters. I just open coin door and have game set to 25 credits. Now you have to have knocker turned on. You get animation Special and knocker goes off.
You just Won a Free Game!

You decide- either extra ball, points, credit, or ticket

-Standard adjustments menu
-Special award

What did you expect? This is how literally every single DMD game works

I recently picked up a jackpot panel with the cutouts -- not because I'm impatient (well, maybe a little) but because the opportunity presented. I still plan on buying Davi 's offering -- he has gone thru the trouble of sourcing them and I said I would buy one in the beginning -- when it arrives I will be happy to pass it on to the next person that needs/wants one.

Alright had sometime to look at my IJ this week and I am still trying to figure out this diverter issue I am having. Everything is hooked up correctly but in test mode when the diverter is activated it works but doesn’t go back and the coil stays charged on. Any thoughts? The last coil burned up and I replace it with a new one..

I recommend trying to determine if the problem you're having is mechanical or electrical. A good way to do this is to go into test mode like you are, and test it.. when it's stuck on.. flip the game off. If the diverter stays stuck open, likely you have a mechanical issue. If it's immediately closes, the issue is likely electrical.

Yeah I did that so I am thinking it electrical. In test mode when it fires it will close the diverter but not let go. Maybe a transistor?

I just raised my drop targets a bit to be flush with a pf protector and encountered a new problem: The drop target lift assembly (coil plunger with three prongs to lift the drops) will sometimes allow a drop to slip from its little lift tab, thus jamming up all three. The the three pronged lift thingy is pretty loose in its track, but that seems to be as designed as the coil is bracketed tightly. The plunger just kind of hangs loosely. Anyone else encounter this or have a fix? I lowered the drops again in hopes of a cure (it’s on location, I can’t check it at will).

So I think I finally found a solution (on my Indy) for the mode hole after trying a number of options. I previously had drop dead foam installed and removed the deflector all together. Problem with this, is you lose the satisfying and intentional sound the ball makes when it connects. So I decided to remove it all and tweak until it was good enough.

First I shimmed the saucer with some fairly thick washers. Next I slotted the ball decrkext and bent it until I could get the balm in about 90% of the time. I’m Happy with it

That’s funny because I find the rattly thud on mine super satisfying. (I have the plate out and the foam in)

I recounted my stop bracket as far back as possible. As suggested by Ch. High end restore video I haven't played enough yet to decide if it's good.
On another note does anyone know where I can get some instruction and price cards for the apron? Thanks

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http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/card/cardg.htm

Hello. Rebuilding some mechs on Wms IJ. The coil in the triple bank target has a lot of side to side play in it. The single does not. On the single... the coil mount (with hole in it) has a tab on the back side that prevents side to side play of coil. The mount on 3 bank does not. Per the manual My current set up is correct. Can anyone verify if that coil should have a lot of movement or if its a manual typo. Wondering if there should have been a tabbed bracket there as well or if something is amiss.
Thanks

For my 3 bank issue, and the side-to-Side play query, I discovered I had put in the wrong coil sleeve — it should hang like 1/4 inch past the coil bracket. I had put in a shorter sleeve as I thought the one in there was wrong. The longer sleeve makes for less play in the 3 bank plunger.

Use rubbers to uncouple the circuit from the mechanic and adjust with washers for a smooth movement.
And use no lubricant!

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Finally got around to cutting the DMD panel for the jackpot lights. Cut to the exact shape with a coping saw. No half measures! I also blocked between them with foam to prevent light bleed from the bright LEDs. Beautiful result!

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Here it is in action:

Add me please

Well done! That looks GREAT!

take me off the list, I cut my own also .

That's exactly what I want on both my games.

Complete cut off from the ARK is not good, you will get interference light effects because there's no border to the bottom now!
That also depends on the condition of the speaker plastic, often the colors don't cover the shape of the ARK.
Better cut off like this way next time!!!

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I think he said he used foam to cover the gap

Wow, a real gentleman! Very rare, thank you!
You and tonycip left, however we have 2 more new requests, so I won't be in trouble.
Thanks again!

Quick update: within 3 weeks I will receive more raw panels. Just sent PM's about deposit.

Finally fixed IJ.

For quite awhile I have been perplexed with my Indy - very intermittent idol, mode hole, and lots of scoring for the left ramp when playing, even though the ball was not anywhere near. I would also get two balls launched at the same time. It became so bad that it was no longer fun to play - the fill line for the idol would back up, and the machine would never clear it.

After chasing my tale, I noticed that all of the issues could be traced to one row, but the weird part was that half of the row switches were working. During troubleshooting, I could tap on the playfield on the left side near the mode hole and get one switch edge to change (Usually trough 6, sometimes left ramp enter.) I figured that I had a bad connection on the mother board, so I changed all the IDT connectors to crimped. No change.

Today, I could not get any intermittent, and had lost trough 6 indication altogether. With the hood up, I decided to test each switch in the row. After testing two or three, I got to the single drop target switch. When I touched it, all of my problem switches went nuts - on, off, on, off.

What I found was a loose wire/cold solder joint on the banded end of the diode to the drop target switch. Wiggling that wire would repeat the same symtoms. Soldered that back together, and now Indy has joined the list of working machines again.

So, if you are having intermittent problems with a row, check all your wiring to the physical switches. It's possible you have the same problem I have.

Isn't that part covered by the U-channel that holds the speaker panel in place? Why would there be any light bleed?

What do you mean "Blocked between them with foam"? Can you post a pic? Thanks!

He means in between the cutouts on the back of the board he put a piece of foam, which makes it hard for any light to bleed between, when say the Stones are lit but the Ark is not, the Ark won’t have any weird light bleeding in

That's why I gave you the heads up so you can pass mine to someone else.

No problem

Can you post a pic of the scratch please? Thanks

Please identify this wire wrapped around the post on the idol.

It's solid Gray, and disconnected at both ends. The game goes into ball search mode when multiball starts.

I've found a problem with the receiver opto pictured below, and can't figure it out. I've switched it out twice and it still doesn't work. I've moved the transmitter to a different receiver and can see on the switch matrix that the transmitter works, but can't get the receiver to register on the matrix.

Thanks for any input.

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This is a picture of the opto receiver that I can't get to work....

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So I can happily confirm that Indy is back and working in Disneyland! Not up to snuff (poa diverter wasn’t working) and a little slanted to the right, but still great fun.

I got the gc score after a few tries which was tricky as it leans to the right and poa was not an option (where I usually get a lot of jackpots and extra balls). Lots of pressure as there were kids waiting behind me and it was our last day in the park until Star Wars land opens in 2019. And the last few times we went, it was out for repairs.

The fam went to small world (we’ve all been like 10 times in the last year) and shopping, so I got a little mini-vacation and checked something off my bucket list.

I’m sure that score won’t hold up for long, but it was a rush. Literal cheering from onlookers.

Better pic

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Look ma! A jackpot board with an LCD color DMD!! Thanks to Galactimus love it!

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Hi everyone. I'm new to Pinside and pinball in general and I thought I would start contributing to this forum instead of mooching off everyone else. I recently had some ball trough problems on my IJ. The balls were sticking in the ball trough ramp and I had to shake the machine to get them to advance forward. This also caused the optos to malfunction and launch balls randomly. Additionally, when the trough would shoot a ball into the launch lane, it would bounce back into the trough and repeat the cycle.

There were several reasons for this. First (as you can see in the picture below), indentations formed in the trough ramp where the balls rested over the years. This caused the balls to sit in the indentations and not roll forward. Second, I have raised my playfield to 6.7-6.8 to speed up the ball action because it was painfully slow. This incline caused the balls to rest more solidly in the indentations and also rest on the opto holes on the side of the ramp.
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I fixed all this by filing down the edges of the ramp smooth as well as the edges of the opto holes. I also placed a piece of drop dead foam on the roof of the trough to slow the ball down as it gets popped into the launch lane. Everything works great now.
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I had trouble finding very much info on this so I thought I'd post it here if anyone else was having this problem.

Great news, thanks for sharing! Never quite understood why they can't seem to keep that thing serviced and working 100%.

There's a plastic insert for the ball trough that works pretty good also

Finally got my game 100% working now. I found out that it was a transistor problem with the ball diverter on my IJ that was causing the diverter to stay closed when activated. The transistor is located on the small circuit board in the upper left had corner of the game. Thanks for all the pictures and help! Man I love this game..

Would love to join club. Drive to CP Pinball from St Louis is an hour for me. Any leads on a nice machine in the 5k to 6k price range?

Unfortunately nice ones haven't been in that range for quite some time.

I’d agree with jake35 I about fell over when I handed 8k over for mine. BUT it’s my favorite game just an amazing pin!

Yup, mine was even more than that and I'm ok with it. It's the king of my small collection and I love it. I've always been a huge IJ fan since I was a kid.

Can you share a pic please? Thanks