(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

6 years ago



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  • 4,901 posts
  • 400 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by 2pupPinz
  • Topic is favorited by 195 Pinsiders

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There are 4901 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 99.
#2901 1 year ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

Thanks for the link! Its certainly an option. I'm not sure yet about this as the plug will always be hot since I don't unplug my machine.
My other idea was to de-pin the two A/C wires on the Molex connector and re-pin them with a double wire in each pin - original going into the transformer and the jumper set fed to the switching power supply. If done this way I'll be able to control everything with the cabinet switch, thus powering everything on at once.
Thank you for your feedback!

Tapping into the switch side of the line filter for the outlet power would accomplish this as well.

#2902 1 year ago

In my opinion the only durable method is black chrome, herewith you prevent damage due to abrasion or scratches.

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#2903 1 year ago
Quoted from Averell:

In my opinion the only durable method is black chrome, herewith you prevent damage due to abrasion or scratches.

Sometimes there are other working solutions, not just yours.

#2904 1 year ago

Coated guns don't last long, they wear as soon as you like, believe me.

#2905 1 year ago
Quoted from Averell:

In my opinion the only durable method is black chrome, herewith you prevent damage due to abrasion or scratches.

I agree with this if the game was being used solely in a commercial environment.

Home use, painting and powder coating is just fine

#2906 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I have one set left for $20 shipped. I also have three extra single bank protectors for $12 each shipped.

djshakes - I’m in for both sets and PM sent. Thanks!

#2907 1 year ago

I dont discuss points often. Just got 792 mil, one extra ball, 3 ball game. A little proud of myself. New grand champ score on my pin. Best damn game in long time. We dont discuss points because we all have are games set up differently. Im a pretty high pitch on factory settings.

#2908 1 year ago
Quoted from Averell:

A nice topper, but Crystal Skull is deplaced for the WMS Indy.
I really hate the last part and I also refuse any symbol of that in my Indy.

Agreed. Want this so bad but the reminder of that dumpster fire of a movie is a deal breaker for me. Someone mod it for us PLEEEEZ!

#2909 1 year ago

Damn, they screwed up the biggest franchise of all time with this crap, and then that stupid show of Shia LaPeng as Indy's son.
I just pray that this son of a bitch will not play a role in the fifth part either.
He can join me in Transformers 10 again, I do not look at that shit anyway!

#2910 1 year ago

Anybody have a spare set of IJ Plastics they want to sell me?

#2911 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Anybody have a spare set of IJ Plastics they want to sell me?

New or used?

#2912 1 year ago

I just secured a new set, thank you!

#2913 1 year ago

Who has the black and white AC line running off left side to the coin door for bill acceptor? Can someone let me know what that’s jumped off of? Mine is missing. Thanks.

#2914 1 year ago
Quoted from That_Pin_Dude:

Tapping into the switch side of the line filter for the outlet power would accomplish this as well.

Thanks all for the tips. I ended up re crimping new ends on the tabs that slide onto the switch. I twisted wire (one black and one white) together with the original AC. Then reconnected on the tabs after the switch going out to transformer. This way now when the machine powers on the external supply will also power on and the mods connected will do the same. Much easier than I though thanks for all the ideas. I found this way was the easiest way to grab AC power and connect a power supply, thus taking the strain off the machine. Thanks all.

#2915 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Guys,
About Jackpot Speaker Panel, the most important element is still missing: cost of panel. As this is depends of final quantity, please confirm your interest and panel version (original or upgraded) via PM. Due to long leadtime of raw speaker panel, I am going to order one shot, and modify it as 1 batch, and won't order later one by one. So this is the chance to go for it.
Please inform me within a week (until 18th of February).

Hello Guys,

**** This is the confirmed list about Jackpot Board, thanks for quick and prompt feedback ***
Psw757 - original
TractorDoc - upgraded
MikeHogue - upgraded
Tonycip - upgraded
jamesmc - original
Konajack - upgraded
Ericpinballfan - upgraded

Not confirmed (earlier intested, but no confirmation via PM):
Pinballinreno
Grumpy712
Rdoyle1978
Matt-Man
Jake35
Mix_arcade

I will wait for 2 more days, PM me if your are really interested, then I'll look for raw panels based on confirmed list (not more, not less).

#2916 1 year ago

Noob question, what is this yellow plastic that's holding the rubber called?

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#2919 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Noob question, what is this yellow plastic that's holding the rubber called?

Be aware there are a few different styles- here's a kit with all new posts for indy plus instructions on where they go:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PK1382

#2920 1 year ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Be aware there are a few different styles- here's a kit with all new posts for indy plus instructions on where they go:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PK1382

Those kits are an incredibly beneficial investment, makes your game look almost new!

#2921 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Ok Indy pros, I’m going to Disneyland tomorrow. My family usually goes back to the hotel to nap and I get some quality time on the most famous Indy pin in existence. My dream is to get on the board with a high score. (I usually go more for depth of play than score when I’m at home). Any suggestions for good scoring tactics? Last time I was there it was woefully unlevel and weak flippers...

Didn't that game look like this? Is this a copy of the Disnyland game??

https://www.greatamericanpinball.com/product-page/indiana-jones-high-end-custom-williams

#2922 1 year ago

Similar vibe for sure. But I think it’s not the same one

#2923 1 year ago

Looks almost the same, whoever did the copy (if this is a copy) then it sure is a very good one. I would not be surprised if this is the Disney machine, as I never heard about anyone in the pinball community that copied the Disney design.Maybe ask the seller if he know's the history.

#2924 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Looks almost the same, whoever did the copy (if this is a copy) then it sure is a very good one. I would not be surprised if this is the Disney machine, as I never heard about anyone in the pinball community that copied the Disney design.Maybe ask the seller if he know's the history.

I’ve defini seen a copy before. Pretty sure this is it.

#2926 1 year ago

Hey guys i have a couple of questions. First is about a month or so i had issues with my path not tilting all the way left but perfectly fine right. I was told to replace it with the great lakes board. Well its currently working and ive found if i let it sit enough it seems to fix itself. Haven't had any problems with it again. Still a good idea to swap the boards out?

Second I plan to swap my rubbers out with Titan rubbers is this kit accurate- https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/628 or if not does anyone have an accurate list of rubbers i need.

Third is there a list of the different star posts needed for the game. i saw this http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PK1382 but im looking for only one color.

Lastly. I am putting new rubbers, star posts, drop dead foam, lighted flipper buttons(to match speaker lights)and tweaking my path. Anything else i should be doing why the game is disassembled like this?

#2927 1 year ago

I recently had my IJ apart for a good cleaning and fresh rubber. I have always felt a little unsatisfied with the factory plastic airplanes. So I bought a couple of 1:72 scale diecast planes off Ebay for a reasonable price and fit them onto the game. I know that some IJ purists will say that my planes are not technically correct, but I really like how they look on my machine. They are a bit smaller, much more detailed and look just right to me.......playfield and ramp are also more visible.

I took the LED board and wire harness off the factory fighter and made it work on the new smaller die cast fighter. Basically removed the LED's off the board and hot glued them onto the bottom of the die cast wings. Then cut the original board down so that it was nothing more than a small cluster of diodes and resisters, and hot glued that under the new fighter. Soldered the original harness on at the proper board location, and ran fine wires from the LED's to what was left of the circuit board. The circuit board and wiring is not at all visible when viewing from a normal position.

When the LED's on the fighter are flashing it really stands out a good bit more than what I was used to seeing on the original plastic fighter.

IMO some Pinsider who is good with making and selling mods could probably do a decent volume of business with something similar to this.

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#2928 1 year ago

I’m putting my ij back together after cc the play field, I took a lot of pic’s of where stuff goes But never seem to have the right ones. Does anyone have a boat load of pics ( top side mostly) when they did theirs I might be able to look at. thanks Tony?

#2929 1 year ago
Quoted from tonycip:

I’m putting my ij back together after cc the play field, I took a lot of pic’s of where stuff goes But never seem to have the right ones. Does anyone have a boat load of pics ( top side mostly) when they did theirs I might be able to look at. thanks Tony?

yes i have all. send me a pm

#2930 1 year ago

Has anyone figured out a solution to the ball popping off the left wireform? That happens to me constantly and it is damn annoying, especially when it bumps out right near the end and drains to the outlane.

Also, how about the lane to that single drop target/captive ball? My game goes SDTM all the time from there.

#2931 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Has anyone figured out a solution to the ball popping off the left wireform? That happens to me constantly and it is damn annoying, especially when it bumps out right near the end and drains to the outlane.
Also, how about the lane to that single drop target/captive ball? My game goes SDTM all the time from there.

Mine used to do this. I made it steeper and it mostly stopped. So much more fun to play 2ball now! I finally got fish of the tayles.

#2932 1 year ago

Can anyone tell me where I could find a replacement speaker screen for the headbox (the screen with Indy's hat)? Or if anyone has one for sale? Or can tell me what paint colors are used? Thanks

#2933 1 year ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Third is there a list of the different star posts needed for the game. i saw this http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PK1382 but im looking for only one color.

I am sure the kit contains right colors.
Anyway, you need followings:
1 pc, Long Necked Translucent Double Star Post 03-8130-13 (backbox item)
28 pcs, Plastic Translucent Star Posts 1-1/16" Tall 03-8319-16

#2934 1 year ago

Yes that is the one. The Disney one has different legs.
Great the see that topic on the custom version. Looks like a lot of work.

#2935 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Yes that is the one. The Disney one has different legs.
Great the see that topic on the custom version. Looks like a lot of work.

HAD different legs, right? Isn’t it gone now? Indy has had to make room for Toy Story and Star Wars and (WHYYYY??!?!?!) Avatarland

#2936 1 year ago

I was there early January and it was gone. Made room for one more table at the restaurant! Over the years, it has been in and out though, so I’m not giving up hope.

#2937 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

SDTM all the time from there.

I think this is factory. You need to bump the game right before it comes off the right ramps sidewall

#2938 1 year ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Third is there a list of the different star posts needed for the game. i saw this http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PK1382 but im looking for only one color.

the picture Marco shows is a generic picture that is shown for all star post kits. If you order the indy one, it will be all the correct colors, which I think is almost entirely yellow

#2939 1 year ago
Quoted from keys88:

Can anyone tell me where I could find a replacement speaker screen for the headbox (the screen with Indy's hat)? Or if anyone has one for sale? Or can tell me what paint colors are used? Thanks

I've never seen them. I think someone on here made some one off stencils once but don't remember the thread.

#2940 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Has anyone figured out a solution to the ball popping off the left wireform? That happens to me constantly and it is damn annoying, especially when it bumps out right near the end and drains to the outlane.
Also, how about the lane to that single drop target/captive ball? My game goes SDTM all the time from there.

The perfect solution is to place a rubber ring on the tail end of the wireform where the ball hits before going down to the playfield. It works like a charm, trust me.

#2941 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

The perfect solution is to place a rubber ring on the tail end of the wireform where the ball hits before going down to the playfield. It works like a charm, trust me.

Thanks, do
You have a pic?

Sidebar: my DJShakes anti-airball plastic (for the single drop target) broke in spectacular fashion last night. That was working perfectly before! Real bummer.

#2942 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thanks, do
You have a pic?
Sidebar: my DJShakes anti-airball plastic (for the single drop target) broke in spectacular fashion last night. That was working perfectly before! Real bummer.

I sure don’t. I’m still restoring my machine and never took pics of it but I did my best with a drawing. Get a brand new rubber ring that grabs both ends of the wireform like in the drawing. Not sure what size ring it is so just try different sizes until you find the perfect fit. Never again will you have a ball drop by the side and drain again. Guaranteed

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#2943 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I sure don’t because I’m still restoring my machine and never took pics of it but I did my best with a drawing. Get a brand new rubber ring that grabs both ends of the wireform like in the drawing. Not sure what size ring it is so just try different sizes until you find the perfect fit. Never again will you have a ball drop by the side and drain again. Guaranteed

Awesome, I think I get it, thanks!!

#2944 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Awesome, I think I get it, thanks!!

Try it and let us know how it went!

#2945 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Try it and let us know how it went!

Will do!

#2946 1 year ago

I've got a power issue with my back board GI. The lower half of the back board GI is not illuminated. I'm not getting power to J120-5 (Green, Return, G.I to backbox) and J120-10 (White-Green, 6.8VAC G.I to backbox).

I've checked Fuse 107 which controls the GI Via J120-5 & J120-10 for the lower half of the back board GI and the fuse is fine so it appears that I am not getting power flowing through Fuse 107 .

The only other thing I noticed on the Power Driver Board is that LED 3 (high/low line voltage sensor) is on. According to the manual, it should be off.

I'm not sure where to go from here so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

QSS

#2947 1 year ago

So I added the spinning prop to my IJ plane and it looks cool! Works great too!

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#2948 1 year ago

Looks cool. Is the prop homemade or purchased from somewhere? What does it tie into to spin?

#2949 1 year ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

Looks cool. Is the prop homemade or purchased from somewhere? What does it tie into to spin?

I followed this guide:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-biplane-propeller-mod-low-budget

But I added a little twist of my own: Instead of making a bracket for the motor, I hot-glued it.
Perfectly centered and way faster.

I also kept the resitor inside the plane. I added double sided tape to the walls for each resistor leg and that keeps the plane ‘suspended’ and it doesn’t touch the plane walls or the wires in case it gets hot. Which I doubt since I used a big resistor.

The guide calls for the resistor to be placed under the playfield but I didn’t like this idea. Too many wires down there. Much safer to keep it inside the plane. See pic. I soldered the wires and added electrical tape just to be on the safe side. I bought the prop from ebay and painted it so it looks like wood. You can tie into your insert of choice. I plan on using the ramp insert.

I’m still not done restoring my IJ so I tested it using a battery. Try it! Works great and it’s very rewarding when you are done

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#2950 1 year ago

Lior, if you ever make the Bi-plane, sign me up!!!!

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