(Topic ID: 68869)
Linked Games
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
Topic Gallery
Budapest
Quoted from Bskinner46:Has anybody installed Pinstadium lights on a Indiana Jones and how do they look. I am concern about the Mini Playfield, Idol Assembly and the wire guide on the lower left on the playfield blocking the light.
It's your game... But please don't do it.
Quoted from Bskinner46:Has anybody installed Pinstadium lights on a Indiana Jones and how do they look. I am concern about the Mini Playfield, Idol Assembly and the wire guide on the lower left on the playfield blocking the light.
Maybe its my game. But its very bright. This is one title i wouldnt think of pinstadium on. You would always have to move it, remove, if you ever lift up playfield.
Glen Allen, VA
Quoted from KornFreak28:This is the board you need. Before I bought this board, I cleaned the optos with alcohol as well as the flipper button boards and that did NOT fix my problem! Once I replaced this board, the issues with my POA went away! That is how I fixed my POA. You can go any route you want, this is only my recommendation.
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/ij_poa.html
Appreciate it, been looking for it for a while. Gonna order one soon enough. One question for anyone that would like to answer. I'm about to rerubber the game, air ball protectors and add drop dead foam to the mode hole. What cool things do you recommend be added. I currently have upgraded subwoofers and lit up speakers. Lit up buttons(not installed yet), Color Dmd(LCD set to hi res dots), and Mirror Blades.
I’ve been busy hosting family during the holidays but I was able to install the super nice Jackpot panel I got from Davi. I primed and painted it, installed the T-nuts and brand new Flipper Fidelity speakers. Installed brand new jackpot board and it all looks really nice IMO! Thanks Davi!!! 
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Quoted from KornFreak28:I’ve been busy hosting family during the holidays but I was able to install the super nice Jackpot panel I got from Davi. I primed and painted it, installed the T-nuts and brand new Flipper Fidelity speakers. Installed brand new jackpot board and it all looks really nice IMO! Thanks Davi!!!
I am glad you like it!
Canmore, AB
Quoted from Mike_M:Here's some detail on my setup. In the first two pictures you can see a standard arcade gaming switched PS installed in my IJ. These can be had NIB for ~$20 on eBay. The AC power supply for the aux PS is provided via the machine's power switch so there is nothing extra to plug in or turn on/off.
I chose a slightly unusual place to connect the 120 volt AC input supply to the aux PS. I did not want to cut any of the original wires or modify the molex plugs that carry the 120 volt AC immediately after it goes through the machine's power switch. However if you follow that wiring you will see that one of the places the switched 120 volt AC power goes is to an unused molex plug near the coin door, which I believe is for a dollar bill acceptor (DBA.) I simply removed the necessary pins from this connector and spliced them into the aux PS input wires; simple enough to remove and return to original in the future if needed.
I ran separate runs of DC power to both the PinSound board and ColorDMD. Probably overkill; I'm sure I could have run a single wire for each rail and split them off in the backbox. Extra wire but I figured it was a cleaner method. The end of each run got a matching molex connector. Notice on the power input for the PinSound board there are two separate pins for +12 and -12; unlike the original IDC connector which simply looped the wires I ran separate lines. Again overkill but I didn't want to jam two wires into a single molex pin.
Thanks Mike M, I'm finally getting around to getting my power supply installed and everything wired up. Do you have a picture you could post of the front of your Suzo Happ power supply showing how you wired it up. The picture you had previously posted makes it a little tough to see how everything is wired up and I want to make sure I've got mine wired correctly.
One thing I don't understand is that the Pinsound Board ask for 12 A + and 12 A - for power but the Suzo Happ power supply has 12V 2A + but no 12v 2A-. I'm not an electronics guy so I want to make sure I wire this up correctly and I don't want to blow up anything.
Also, what's the little whit knob on the top of the power supply for? It's an adjustment, but for what?
QSS
Quoted from Averell:Be careful, PinSound-Board should powered at this connector on the left!
I should clarify what I'm trying to do on my IJ. I have:
- Pinsound Board
- Color DMD
- Tilt Topper
- Pinball Pro speakers and sub
Using the Pinsound board, Color DMD and tilt Topper is to much power draw for the machine so I have run an external power source to get everything working.
How do I power the Pinsound Board and the Color DMD using the power supply in the picture below?
Follow up question: Can I use the Pinball Pro speakers with the Stereo 2.1 setup on the Pinsound Board?
Any help would be appreciated.
QSS
I also use external power supply to prevent damage at powerdriver and/or reset during gameplay.
Left connection for power supply and right connection for Speakers.
External power supply for PinSound-Board, Shaker Drive, LED-Stripe and illuminated Scorecards.
Connect your Color-DMD directly to the powerdriver as original - no Problem due to less power consumption.
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:I should clarify what I'm trying to do on my IJ. I have:
- Pinsound Board
- Color DMD
- Tilt Topper
- Pinball Pro speakers and sub
Using the Pinsound board, Color DMD and tilt Topper is to much power draw for the machine so I have run an external power source to get everything working.
How do I power the Pinsound Board and the Color DMD using the power supply in the picture below?
Follow up question: Can I use the Pinball Pro speakers with the Stereo 2.1 setup on the Pinsound Board?
Any help would be appreciated.
QSS
You can use the Pinball Pro speakers, but unless you have the PinSound Stereo cable, you'll have to re-pin the connector (it's easy to figure out - 3 speakers, 6 wires). Also you'll want to remove the L-PAD entirely, as the bass/treble mix is handled on the PinSound board. For the trouble it takes, it may be worth the $20 just to buy the cable.
I’m still not done restoring my machine but Do you guys think I will need an external power supply? I have/will have the following mods:
Color DMD
Jackpot board
Pinsound board
Possibly Ruins led strip (connects to PDB)
Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:I’m still not done restoring my machine but Do you guys think I will need an external power supply? I have/will have the following mods:
Color DMD
Jackpot board
Pinsound board
Possibly Ruins led strip (connects to PDB)
Thanks!
I don't have the Jackpot board (it's just 3 LEDs, right?) but I have a ColorDMD and the PinSound board - game runs perfectly. If you are getting resets, it's worth replacing some of the components on your PDB - #1 thing would be replacing the voltage regulator LM323K - if you replace that with a EZ-SBC PSU5, there's no heat from the PDB and everything runs super smoothly. Amazing damn upgrade. This affects the 5V not the 12V (which the pinsound runs off of) but is a way to stabilize the PDB.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I don't have the Jackpot board (it's just 3 LEDs, right?) but I have a ColorDMD and the PinSound board - game runs perfectly. If you are getting resets, it's worth replacing some of the components on your PDB - #1 thing would be replacing the voltage regulator LM323K - if you replace that with a EZ-SBC PSU5, there's no heat from the PDB and everything runs super smoothly. Amazing damn upgrade. This affects the 5V not the 12V (which the pinsound runs off of) but is a way to stabilize the PDB.
Yes just 3 led’s. Where did you buy you EXternal PS? Thanks for the tip 
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yes just 3 led’s. Where did you buy you EXternal PS? Thanks for the tip
Sorry, I wasn't clear: I am not running an external PS; all stock
I took a good look at the right outlane switch and wiring that is causing my additional player issue. Everything appears good.
Switch functions normally after first ball on one player game. As long as there is no right outlane drain then no additional players are added.
Any other suggestions?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:You can use the Pinball Pro speakers, but unless you have the PinSound Stereo cable, you'll have to re-pin the connector (it's easy to figure out - 3 speakers, 6 wires). Also you'll want to remove the L-PAD entirely, as the bass/treble mix is handled on the PinSound board. For the trouble it takes, it may be worth the $20 just to buy the cable.
I don't have the PinSound Stereo cable, I was just going to make my own. Like you said, it's really easy to do and I have all the materials to do it.
QSS
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Sorry, I wasn't clear: I am not running an external PS; all stock
Thanks! My PDB was upgraded by Chris Hibler so I should be good
Quoted from Psw757:I took a good look at the right outlane switch and wiring that is causing my additional player issue. Everything appears good.
Switch functions normally after first ball on one player game. As long as there is no right outlane drain then no additional players are added.
Any other suggestions?
Looking at the switch matrix (which I'm assuming you have gone through multiple times already), the start button and right outlane switch are both on the Green-Brown wire. Clearly, there is a problem with the path somewhere, most likely a bad diode that is letting the signal through the start button. Check the diodes and for proper function on all the other switches on that path (Single Drop Top, Buy-in Button, Plumb Bob Tilt, Left Outlane, Left Return Lane, Right Return Lane) in addition to the diodes for the start button and right outlane switch. Maybe somebody else knows how to find the problem quicker, so apologies if this is bad advice, but that's where I'd start.
Here's an excerpt from http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting#common-problems
Random Switch Indications
Random switch indications occur when one switch is closed and another switch erroneously thinks it has also been closed. For example, A ball hits the left sling and one of the pop bumpers fires. This is typically caused by a reversed diode, a shorted diode, the switch improperly wired or diode lead touching one of the other switch lugs. Any of these issues allows current to flow backwards and take a row low that shouldn't be low at that time.
While this is often a one to one relationship (one switch closes and one switch thinks it's closed when it isn't) there can be multiple one to one relationships.
Getting intermittent sound loss with Pinsound board, and a sound board interface error. Also some color loss on my color dmd. Reseatting the ribbon cable that goes to all boards resolves this. Any recommendations of good source for new ribbon cables?
Quoted from Pinzap:Looking at the switch matrix (which I'm assuming you have gone through multiple times already), the start button and right outlane switch are both on the Green-Brown wire. Clearly, there is a problem with the path somewhere, most likely a bad diode that is letting the signal through the start button. Check the diodes and for proper function on all the other switches on that path (Single Drop Top, Buy-in Button, Plumb Bob Tilt, Left Outlane, Left Return Lane, Right Return Lane) in addition to the diodes for the start button and right outlane switch. Maybe somebody else knows how to find the problem quicker, so apologies if this is bad advice, but that's where I'd start.
Here's an excerpt from http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting#common-problems
Random Switch Indications
Random switch indications occur when one switch is closed and another switch erroneously thinks it has also been closed. For example, A ball hits the left sling and one of the pop bumpers fires. This is typically caused by a reversed diode, a shorted diode, the switch improperly wired or diode lead touching one of the other switch lugs. Any of these issues allows current to flow backwards and take a row low that shouldn't be low at that time.
While this is often a one to one relationship (one switch closes and one switch thinks it's closed when it isn't) there can be multiple one to one relationships.
Thanks - I did look at that.
I think I have it narrowed down to the single drop or the bottom rt Mini PF diode.
The single drop is giving me an error during test mode but seems to function fine. Could be causing the issue.
A few others mentioned same issue and it was the rt lower mini PF opto/diode.
I am obviously trying not to tear everything apart!
Ok... it's quite obvious I knew nothing about the complex nature of "phantom" switch signals based on my previous post. I did watch the video at the bottom of the page I linked to earlier and it cleared it up tremendously as what would cause the erroneous switch signal. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND watching the full video for anyone not already familiar with switch matrix theory. If you're trying to troubleshoot switch matrix problems, this knowledge is essential.
Here's a direct link to the video... but can also be found by scrolling down to the bottom the page previously linked.
I guess I’m joining the club! IJ is my grail pin and I finally found one at a price I was somewhat comfortable with. I won’t have it till the end of the month but but I’m extremely excited and nervous at the same time!!
Quoted from Davi:Have seen rotor locks on ebay for $150. Per piece. The ad is ended. The power of NOS...
I'm buying mine from you
Ok Indy pros, I’m going to Disneyland tomorrow. My family usually goes back to the hotel to nap and I get some quality time on the most famous Indy pin in existence. My dream is to get on the board with a high score. (I usually go more for depth of play than score when I’m at home). Any suggestions for good scoring tactics? Last time I was there it was woefully unlevel and weak flippers...
Quoted from paynemic:Ok Indy pros, I’m going to Disneyland tomorrow. My family usually goes back to the hotel to nap and I get some quality time on the most famous Indy pin in existence. My dream is to get on the board with a high score. (I usually go more for depth of play than score when I’m at home). Any suggestions for good scoring tactics? Last time I was there it was woefully unlevel and weak flippers...
As I heard, the pin is removed...
Quoted from Davi:As I heard, the pin is removed...
I heard the same as well.
Quoted from Pinzap:Looking at the switch matrix (which I'm assuming you have gone through multiple times already), the start button and right outlane switch are both on the Green-Brown wire. Clearly, there is a problem with the path somewhere, most likely a bad diode that is letting the signal through the start button. Check the diodes and for proper function on all the other switches on that path (Single Drop Top, Buy-in Button, Plumb Bob Tilt, Left Outlane, Left Return Lane, Right Return Lane) in addition to the diodes for the start button and right outlane switch. Maybe somebody else knows how to find the problem quicker, so apologies if this is bad advice, but that's where I'd start.
Here's an excerpt from http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting#common-problems
Random Switch Indications
Random switch indications occur when one switch is closed and another switch erroneously thinks it has also been closed. For example, A ball hits the left sling and one of the pop bumpers fires. This is typically caused by a reversed diode, a shorted diode, the switch improperly wired or diode lead touching one of the other switch lugs. Any of these issues allows current to flow backwards and take a row low that shouldn't be low at that time.
While this is often a one to one relationship (one switch closes and one switch thinks it's closed when it isn't) there can be multiple one to one relationships.
It was indeed the diode bottom right mini pf. It was ever so slightly bent and touching some other metal. Thanks for the pointers!
Anyone rocking some side art blades on their Indy? I'm considering either pingraffix or tilt. Any thoughts?
Quoted from Psw757:pingraffix or tilt
Are they aware of other pf elements, like ruin, mini pf, and so on? I think the good pinblade follows the pf elements. IJ is assymetrical from this point of view, pingraffix and tilt design is basically a mirrored setup.
3rd version below (I don't know the source). Averell posted another version ~2 months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/46#post-3988052
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And 5th version, by Ministry of Pinball.
Quoted from Davi:Are they aware of other pf elements, like ruin, mini pf, and so on? I think the good pinblade follows the pf elements. IJ is assymetrical from this point of view, pingraffix and tilt design is basically a mirrored setup.
3rd version below (I don't know the source). Averell posted another version ~2 months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/46#post-3988052
Quoted from KornFreak28:Anybody know Who makes/sells original speaker panel repros? Thanks!
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/indiana-jones-speaker-panel/
(Contact me if they don't have)
Quoted from Davi:Are they aware of other pf elements, like ruin, mini pf, and so on? I think the good pinblade follows the pf elements. IJ is assymetrical from this point of view, pingraffix and tilt design is basically a mirrored setup.
3rd version below (I don't know the source). Averell posted another version ~2 months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/46#post-3988052
I see what your saying.
Talk about muddying the waters!lol
I’m hoping to see some pics of the various installed. Not many sample pics on the web that are actually installed.
For as many of these as they made, I never see them. Not at shows, nowhere. Probably one of the only 1990s Bally Williams Ive never had a chance to play. Hope to get a chance one day......
Quoted from Psw757:It was indeed the diode bottom right mini pf. It was ever so slightly bent and touching some other metal. Thanks for the pointers!
Anyone rocking some side art blades on their Indy? I'm considering either pingraffix or tilt. Any thoughts?
I have been aware of the bent diode issue under the mini play field for a while and have finally decided to do something about protecting the diode. I believe there were a couple other posts a while back showing guards that people made for their machines. This is what I came up with for a no-cost guard. Others can do the same, but you need to have a part of an old plastic ramp laying around.
I removed the mini play field and took a look at how to cover the switch. Then I measured and cut out a small section of an old plastic ramp. Plastic ramps cut easy with either tinsnips, fine hacksaw or a small disc grinder. Cut to what you feel is an appropriate size and then clean up the edges. Next you can drill a couple holes in the plastic and mount right under the two screws that hold the microswitch to the board. As I show in the first and second photo the piece of plastic ramp seems to be hanging a little bit too far above the switch so I took a hair dryer and heated up the small piece of ramp/guard and simply bent it around for a more contoured fit. Other photos show the guard after it has been curved and how it looks once the mini play field is reinstalled on the machine.
Plastic is obviously not as strong as a metal guard but I think this should hold up fairly well and it is not electrically conductive if it does get damaged.
Not sure why photos are loading in reverse sequence.
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Quoted from Davi:As I heard, the pin is removed...
Last time I was there (October) it was still there. I’ll report back.
Still, any tournament scoring strategies? Or strat for high scoring runs?
Quoted from Davi:No wonder why... Looks nice as standalone graphics... You order it, install it... Hmmm, looks strange... Let me send this back... Wait, I can't
Is that your machine you posted pics of?
I think those look good, are they from Averell or somewhere else?
Quoted from KornFreak28:These are from Averell. I printed mine and they look awesome and blend really well with the lost plastic! Thanks Averell!
Those don’t look like the ones pictured in post 2682.
Quoted from paynemic:Last time I was there (October) it was still there. I’ll report back.
Still, any tournament scoring strategies? Or strat for high scoring runs?
Go for the lock. Get multiball going, left ramp, scoop, right ramp, repeat.
Well, I confirmed ij is not in Disneyland park anymore. It was last time I was here (October) so I guess I’m hopeful this is just another repair removal. If the technician responsible happens to read this, I would love some insight!
Quoted from paynemic:Well, I confirmed ij is not in Disneyland park anymore. It was last time I was here (October) so I guess I’m hopeful this is just another repair removal. If the technician responsible happens to read this, I would love some insight!
Not worth your time. Even when it was there it played like shit. At least on my visit
Indy club ? Where can I buy clear drop targets and light below ?
Also I have a prototype Indy and I added color dmd and lost my lower lights ? I need to buy lower lights in a led panel ? Pin bits had them bug no longer
Any help greatly appreciated
Thanks Ken White CA
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