It's absolutely confusing, but it's correct, all of them and lots of other Pins have these guides, too.
More wicked is the fact that the small metal flags of the guides squeeze into the playfield.
I often use small washer between playfield and guides to protect the surface.

Wow! So for sure, the smaller guides just sit there with nothing holding it or securing it? I just don't see the purpose, but oh well. I would've been nice to secure them with a nut. I guess the 2 self tapping screws on that guide will have to do. I'll PM you soon about those restoration pics. Thanks man!

When I first saw these small guide lane I thougt the screw was broken.
I talked to some other Indy Players and they confirm that these parts are original.

Be fast, I'm on vacation next week.

I made a rookie mistake and installed the pop bumper screws before the ball guides which must be pounded in, preferably on a solid workbench. Sooooo, The pop bumper screws are sticking out. Would it be OK to pound the ball guides in with the playfield sitting on the rotisserie? Will that hurt anything? I know I got limited options

I think you should be ok, as long as you using something to support the impact from the underside, so the impact can be absorbed locally and not shake the whole playfield if that makes sense.

Thanks! Yes that makes perfect sense. I installed 2 ball guides last night. Used a rubber mallet to tap them in. It went pretty well. Last 2 should be done tonight. Thanks!

You don’t have to pound in pop bumper screws at all! Just use a nut on the underside of the playfield and tighten it from below to slowly draw the screw in perfectly flush. You’ll never have to hammer them if you use this way. Much easier, and much less stressful.

Marc

Just letting you all know that lior is making a super cool mod for the left ramp. I believe he is going to have a pre-order soon. I think this ramp mod is very cool indeed. It fits that area of the game very well

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-work-in-progress-indiana-jones-ramp-cover-mod

Finally got my IJ back together. ColorDMD is on the way.

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Hello all! Sorry if wrong place, but looking for answer.
Anybody experience a problem with the idol where ,before release from idol, there is a low bass buzz and door lock does not go down? Idol spins a few times and door/gate does not go down. Mostly happens after about 10 games, but not consistent. Tests all pass, optos clean. Thanks

Check OPTO-Electronic, both flipper OPTO-Electronics and 10 OPTO-Board, often 12 Volt connector is faulty.

Thanks. I will give them a look.

This is my first time doing a full restoration. Yesterday I installed the back panel and found out securing the playfield to the rotisserie is a bit more complicated now in this corner specifically. The clamps I'm using are too big and don't fit that area anymore. I'm a little hesitant to use C-clamps because I feel they might be a bit too rough on the playfield? I really would like to keep the back panel installed (rather than installing it later) because it will be much more difficult to install it once more stuff is added to the playfield. I had to remove the playfield from the rotisserie to install the back panel since the perforated angle that holds the playfield gets in the way below. Any advise is much appreciated. Thanks!

Playfield assembly is coming along nicely btw

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Dead foam added to the mode start hole ball guide

Should I add more?

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Wait, there is a metal deflector that goes in front of the ball guide. Shouldn’t you add the foam to that? I can’t see how the ball would ever hit foam in your current spot...

Wait, there is a metal deflector that goes in front of the ball guide. Shouldn’t you add the foam to that? I can’t see how the ball would ever hit foam in your current spot...

Don't do that - look at my solution - it work's.
Just use the same metal part from the ohter hole, cut it aprox. 3-5 mm and bend it a little bit down.
Catching 8 of 10 balls with this assembly.

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Remove the deflector...

And make sure to protect the switch under the POA to prevent short circuits in the switch matrix.

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Nice ideas but it has been my understanding all along that the only 100% solution to this problem is to remove the deflector and add foam. I sure hope boob can comment on this (for the 100th time)

I like your protector for the switch! You should sell some. What material did you use?

I got the deflector polished but I think I'm going with the foam solution this this time

Material is 2 mm spring steel.

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Please someone, 3d print this part.
Great idea Averell

The switch protector is great. But the deflector needs to be taken out. I'd add more along the left side...I think I put it out until about an inch from the front, but I need to check my machine to see.

Its pinball, game supposed to be hard.
Leave deflector in, add small piece of dead foam to it. Or leave it factory. Game at 6 1/2 deg youll make that shot plenty of times.

Thanks! Please do

This again with the mode start discussion?! Remove plate, put some foam where the plate was, put your game back together and play the damn thing. One micrometer more/less of foam isn't going to break the mode start.

Again...this is a design flaw that Mark Ritchie has acknowledged. Has nothing to do with making the game easier. And my game is pitched over 7 degrees to make it really fast. Why should I suffer and hate the game because of a design flaw? Fix the thing, pitch it the way you want, and enjoy.

If you had a scoop eject that shot the ball STDM, would you just leave it?

My foam goes along the left side to the front lip of the hole btw.

Thanks!

REMOVE THE DEFLECTOR!!!! END Discussion. Not this all over again.

i cant take my mini pf out right now but if someone can send me the size of this thing i will be happy to make one in 3d and to give it for free

Lior to the rescue! I'll buy one if you make them

no need to buy. i will make them for free. only if its ok to Averell i can also make them for him and he can sell them. this is not my idea and not my item so i don't want to make or sell something who's not mine...

BTW if anyone wants any rescue with parts he cant find or wants to make. i'm offer my service for free! i have laser cutter and 3d printers and some skills... i'm not going to take 5 cents for that. also because its license and also because its not my idea. but im not going to make something someone else selling or making. i just want to make this hobby more nice and more fun

Class act

Dear all,

please feel free to make this little protector to make Indy much more playable - and I don't want to have anything.
This is just a hobby and we all want to have fun and a great time, so go on.
But I'm glad to be asked for - thank you guys.

Can you provide the measurements to Lior?

This current mod looks very much like a JJP outhole setup, sans the routed out rear area. It works perfectly.
I would put mylar over the paint in the rear of the hole, maybe 2 layers. Or use a modified steel Cliffy off a hobbit or WOZ for this area for protection.

Anyone run into an issue where the attract sounds work but attract music doesn't when both are set to on? I get the trumpet type sound every so often with the dcs logo but no theme music periodically. A few days ago it was working. I changed battery with power off but went back into settings and turned on.

Another question, matter of taste I guess but to add blades or not ?

what is the preferred method of back box lighting so you can actually see the lost plastic?

Thanks!

Don't put the deflector in. For sure not. I tried everything. No deflector is best.

Can someone please explain how the speaker panel jackpot lights are supposed to work? Do they just mirror the same lights on the playfield?

These work great!

No more air balls, thank you for making!

Yes, they plug into the duplicate pins on the MPU board. So they operate in unison with the ones on th playfield.

Lior is now taking pre-orders for the cool ramp mod he just finished! The more pre-orders he gets, the lower the price! If you are interested click on the link below page 4

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-work-in-progress-indiana-jones-ramp-cover-mod

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What do you guys think of this yellow look for the pop bumpers?

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This guy keeps a close eye on the restoration

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I like it

Dear Mr. K. Freak:

Could you post pictures of the drill bits you used to relieve the clear around the playfield holes? Did you get your kit from Ron? He sells a 3-pack that's terrific. Just wondering what method YOU used to take care of the clearcoat. Thanks.

Your Friend,
Boob.

Boob,

Yes, I used a dremmel and glue kit I bought from Ron. I also bought brad drill bits from Lee Valley Tools. The kit is great and makes removing clear fast, easy and stress free. I tried using the brad drill bits to relieve clear around the holes but they are a bit too harsh for my taste. It is almost impossible to judge when you cut the clear and are about to hit bare wood with them. The only time I use the brad drill bits now is to remove clear from inside the hole only.

Ron's dremmel bits are excellent for removing the clear on top of the hole so your screws don't touch clear when you install them and cause any halos. The bits are super easy to work with. Just light pressure on the dremmel (low speed) and let the bit do its job. The kit comes with different sized bits for different applications. Some are great for tiny holes, some are great for bigger holes and some are great for pop bumper nail/screw holes and so on and so forth. My apologies to you Boob. As much as I would love to share pics of the dremmel bits, Ron, very politely, asked me not to post pictures of his kit. I'm sure he has his reasons. I could possibly post pics of a hole drilled out and how to apply the glue to it. If you are on the fence about buying his kit, trust me, it is worth every penny. I'm sure the pros don't need it but for a rookie like myself, it is very very helpful. Thanks!