Try a coil sleeve first. And i have a brand new manual if interested.
Added over 7 years ago: Manual Sold.

Added over 7 years ago: Manual Sold.

Take a look in the manual where all assemblies are shown in detail.

How much for the manual?

Found the parts in the manual, but can't find them online. Marcos is out of stock on everything needed.

Basically the issue is that the eject always shoots the ball out so that it hits the top of the left slingshot, where I know it's supposed to go to the left flipper. So not sure what needs adjusting here.

What is the trick to get the ball over the top left switch on the mini playfield? I have never been able to get it over there from the ramp. Because of that I now have a credit dot and the message "Check Switch 65, Mini Top Left". The main playfield and glass are level, all the tests of the mini playfield are okay, the top left switch works but the ball just never falls there. Whether the angle of the mini-playfield is in the middle, to the far left or far right before the ball falls, it always falls on the right.

Try bending the metal tabs that direct the ball on to the mini pf.

You can also try changing the level of it by adjusting the small screw at the top of the assembly. Instructions on how to remove the mini pf are in the manual. Pretty simple to do, even for a noob like me.

My mini pf is still not perfectly level. I actually get it to fall down the side I want, then quickly shift side side to settle the ball down, and then it rolls all the way down uninterrupted.

Hoping someone can help

Had the machine running great and turn it on this evening and got these error msg's

Gnd short row 1 stuck closed
Check switch 34 gun trigger
Gnd short row 1 wht-brn r1
Gnd short row 4 wht- Ylw r4
Gnd short row 5 wht-grn r5

Any ideas as to what the hell is going on all of a sudden?

Hey guys looking to buy a shaker motor for my Indy. If anyone has one they don't want/use. I'd be happy to buy it off you.

When aligning the flippers, do you guys use the toothpick holes, or line up to the lane guide?

It seems ever games is different, as well as factoring in personal taste.

Wondering how you all set yours? Right now I have the bat (with rubber off) resting on a toothpick.

I line mine up with the lane guide,no ball hop that way.

Gold idol and black nickel gun installed now,just need to add the brass trim.

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Quick question. I lost my coin door key. I was planning on buying a keyless lock. Indy's lock size is a 7/8 if I'm not mistaken?

Very nice!

What did you do to the drop target bank? Are those some kind of lighted / glow drop targets?

Hey Mike,
Drop targets are clear transparent with the idol image etched in.
Lit up from below with a led strip.
Same for the single drop target.
Looks really good lit up

they lok nice where did you get them?

Indypinhead on here makes them,excellent product

So I just cleaned the whole top of the PF on my IJ, installed new plastics and Cliffys but after putting everything back together I am left with the below in the picture...?I cannot see where these should... I wonder if I did mix parts with some other games but it would be strange...
WP_20170721_19_35_15_Pro (resized).jpg

Also, does someone has a picture on the underside of the PF where the right ramp plane light connectors is attached? I cannot find the other end of the connector to connect it to strangely?

Take a look at the small Ramp on the right of the back panel. Left of it there's a plate very similar to yours.

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that must be it, thanks a lot!

I was in the middle of a game when all three speakers started emitting a loud buzzing sound. I could still faintly hear the game call outs in the background; however, the buzzing was drowning them out. No testing errors were reported and the buzzing continues when a game is not in play and during testing mode. If the power is on, the buzz is present. Any suggestions?

just made this topper/mod for this machine. for more info:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-indiana-jones-torch-toppermod

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That's really cool - great idea.

I make/sell the lit drop targets

And there awesome!

Thank you !!!

Just got my playfield back from HSA! The clear coat looks absolutely perfect! Awesome job by Brian!

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That does look nice. Were any paint touchups required also? or only clear coat? I need to disassemble mine and get it cleared, but I think I need a few touchups, but mostly just around the keylines of some of the inserts. Per Vid's guide, I'm assuming all the inserts would need to be checked and glued, etc, though I don't think any are coming up.

Yes, the clear coat is just perfect. Not sure if he did any paint touchups yet but if he did, they are very hard to notice

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I think the wood grain is sprayed on...there's probably more painted there than you think. He did my Jacks Open, and the wood grain was painted so well I didn't even realize it was fake. Really nice work! If you have a before picture you'd be able to tell.

Pic before it shipped to HSA

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Personally, I think the wood structure is a bit to much. But for the rest a real nice playfield

The cc is nice, but I'm not a fan of the faked wood grain, I noticed it right away.

None of the wood grain will be seen when installed in a game, but it looks nice!
I really like the way the shooter lane repairs were addressed, really well done.

I don't mind it at all actually. Honestly, it Looks a lot nicer in person. It's all getting covered anyway. Brian did a fantastic job on the inserts as well. The playfield had several ghosting inserts. Brian worked his magic on them and they turned out quite nicely. I'll post some close ups soon

For those of you that have a clear coated IJ playfield...What (brad point) drill bit sizes are the most commonly used to drill out the clear? I need to drill out each hole to begin my assembly. Most of them are pretty tiny. Took a trip to Lowe's and Home Depot but the only Brad point drill bits they had were way too big for this project. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

There are special bits that I bought from Ron Kruzman - very fine diamond headed sanding-type drill bits that relieve the clear without chipping or doing damage. I would contact him and he'll sell you a set (I think it was only $10 or $15) and give you priceless advice to boot. kruzman is his Pinside handle, I think.

I can tell you that my Jacks Open looks amazing reassembled, and NOBODY notices that the wood grain is fake. Once you have all of the plastics and everything on, hardly any of it is exposed enough to the player to look fake.

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Thanks for the tip!

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I have been using this for years. It cuts the clear in a downward pressure,This alleviates any pulling or tearing,

Looks like a neat tool. I assume there are several sizes for each different hole just like the drill bits? What's the name of this tool? Thanks!

It is a countersink bit. You only need one size.

Doesn't that remove too much of the diameter vs. not enough depth? You don't really want the hole to be visible when you put the wireform, etc. in.

I use it to cut through the clear only. I use it on all screw-holes in the play field. If I need to drill a hole I will use a conventional bit second.

For instance:IMG_4368 (resized).JPGIMG_4369 (resized).JPGIMG_4370 (resized).JPGIMG_4371 (resized).JPG

Great info Skypilot! I'm getting really scared now. This is my first clear coated playfield and I really really don't want to screw it up. I just noticed the pop bumper holes have a lot of clear around them. Not sure if the tool you suggest or a brad drill bit should be used. Others suggest a dremmel stone....so confused

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By the way, here is HSA's link to the before and after pics

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa072417indyjonespair.html#grid

I was under the impression that I only needed to drill out the clear inside the hole only? Not remove clear on the top of the hole like Skypilot did on that hole

I use that countersink on my pop bumper holes also.

All of my restorations have significant clear on them. I send out my Play-fields, including new ones for additional clearing. If you try to run screws on some of these without pre-drilling,you risk getting lift and separation in the form of a cloudy circle around the protruded area.

Ron Kruzman recommends removing the clear all around screws and posts with small diamond dremel bits (that he sells for this purpose) or a very sharp countersink, or brand new american made brad tipped bits.
Then apply thin CA glue (with a fine syringe) to the exposed areas to firm up the wood and glue down any clearcoat edges.

This technique will avoid ghosting or cracking of the clear when screws and posts are tightened up.
Clearcoat can be rock hard in a lot of cases and not bend or flex when screws and posts are applied.
If the clear wont flex it will crack a little where pressure was applied.

It doesnt always happen but its worth mentioning.

Newly coated playfields have a little give to the clearcoat, ghosting is minimized.
5 year old coated playfields can be rock hard, ghosting can happen.

Ron admits he is a little Anal about this but he maybe right when it comes to one of a kind playfields and expensive restorations.

Thanks for the tip! I'm buying Ron's kit today. I'm also buying his glue kit. Is the glue supposed to be injected between the wood and the clear or anywhere the clear is exposed after drilling?