Highly recommend getting the pinsound board for IJ. Transforms the game imho.

Excellent Pinball... next to the PinSound-Board you need a Shaker, too.
Shaker will be fired by the PinSound-Board, then Indy is really perfect.

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Now THAT is some serious clear coat!

Been looking forever for the shaker motor kit.
Never seen it for sale. Out of stock for years.
Want one really bad.

This Shaker is custom made.
I'm sure there's no Shaker Motor Kit available for Indy.

Did you bring the separate power to the topper or to the color DMD? Where did you bring the separate power from? Any pictures you could share?

Thanks for your help, I'm trying to figure out how to get both mine running.

QSS

I'm going to order one today so I'm sure I'll contct you with a few questions. Thanks for your help, it is appreciated.

QSS

Sure. I've got a special place in my heart for Canadians...especially the ones in Alberta. Especially the ones near Moraine Lake, which I visit frequently because it's one of the most beautiful places on Earth. And since I'm a moocher, I always need places to crash when I'm up there, so ask all the questions you want. It won't cost you anything. Really.

I actually don't have the topper- it's the combination of the ColorDMD and PinSound board that I found would blow F116 every couple of hours. beelzeboob sounds like he has the same combo as me without issue so it may just be the power board in my indy wasn't up to the task. In any event I'm running power from the separate power supply to both the ColorDMD and PinSound board. My machine is still wrapped up from the show but when I get it back into the game room I'll take some pictures and post the details.

I bought my Indy with a shaker. I couldn't get it out of there fast enough. I did not like the integration at all. And I have a shaker on all my other games I just recently got back my (one year) restored IJ with pinsound and wow, that may be the best mod in pinball.

Pinsound + Flipper Fidelity + Endprodukt's Mix = Best Mod in Pinball

Here's some detail on my setup. In the first two pictures you can see a standard arcade gaming switched PS installed in my IJ. These can be had NIB for ~$20 on eBay. The AC power supply for the aux PS is provided via the machine's power switch so there is nothing extra to plug in or turn on/off.
auxps-overview (resized).jpg
auxps-detail (resized).JPG

I chose a slightly unusual place to connect the 120 volt AC input supply to the aux PS. I did not want to cut any of the original wires or modify the molex plugs that carry the 120 volt AC immediately after it goes through the machine's power switch. However if you follow that wiring you will see that one of the places the switched 120 volt AC power goes is to an unused molex plug near the coin door, which I believe is for a dollar bill acceptor (DBA.) I simply removed the necessary pins from this connector and spliced them into the aux PS input wires; simple enough to remove and return to original in the future if needed.
auxps-switchedpower (resized).jpg

I ran separate runs of DC power to both the PinSound board and ColorDMD. Probably overkill; I'm sure I could have run a single wire for each rail and split them off in the backbox. Extra wire but I figured it was a cleaner method. The end of each run got a matching molex connector. Notice on the power input for the PinSound board there are two separate pins for +12 and -12; unlike the original IDC connector which simply looped the wires I ran separate lines. Again overkill but I didn't want to jam two wires into a single molex pin.
pinsound-power (resized).jpg
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Thats good solid work there.
Not overkill at all in my opinion, people really shouldnt burden the old pc boards with more draw if they dont have to.

I agree on this. Just installed one last week. Epic sound. Speakers alone arent enough, you need the board.

Very Nice Work Mike_M
I may try something similar when I take on the task of restoring my IJ. Quick question, does the unused connector (from the pinsound board) still receive power or did you disconnect at the other end as well?

on top of pinsound already being awesome, now you can add shaker support so if you want shaker in IJ, no more waiting. I believe pinsound will sell a plug and play kit which is what I'm waiting for. I love shakers in pins.

Thanks! The unused connector still carries power; I didn't disconnect it on the other end. It's actually the connector for the original audio board, which was replaced by the PinSound board. (After installing my PinSound board I sold the old original audio board- didn't realize how rare and sought after they were until it sold in about 12 seconds.... LOL.)

Ok, I'll ask questions when they arise and I'm sure they will. Thanks.
PM me next time your in the area. I'll buy beer and burgers, we can shoot some pinball shit.

QSS

Is it possible to even find shaker motors for Indiana Jones? Been looking for a while now. Pinbits forever sold out

Nice. I'll get to work on this. Thanks for the pics and description. It's greatly appreciated. I'm sure I'll have a few questions as I proceed.

QSS

Get a nice sub / speaker for the bottom cabinet.

Buy the Pinsound Board.

Get Endproducts Indiana Jones mix.

Turn the volume up (separate speaker controls on Pinsound) on the cabinet sub.

You won't need a shaker for Indiana Jones!

Yes you need a shaker in Indy!

So im in the final process of getting ready to purchase an Indy. What are some things to look for when inspecting one. I plan to look for one of good to execllent quality so im guessing 6-8k ballpark?

I'd like a shaker motor but i think they are impossible to find at this point

You have to look for:

• being complete, no missing parts
• damaged mainboard with burned plugs and burst capacitors
• last software update L-7
• broken plastics
• burned translite
• damaged coin door and coin controls
• complete and right coin box (WPC)
• bended, rusty legs
• damaged cabinet and back box and bleached artwork
• damaged motors for POA and Idol, gears also
• working opto- and switch boards
• broken plastic ramp right side
• missing jackpot circuit (proto)
• lost plastic
• backpanel plain or proto with lights
• wear and tear on playfield (Lost Treasure, Indy, Willie, Marion)
• damaged playfield area behind drop targets and holes
• Speakerpanel plain or proto (Grail, Stone, Ark)
• working DMD without flickering

Pinsound just announced they will support shakers which they are releasing their own. Buy the pinsound for better music and now for the ability to add a shaker!

Awesome news. Do you have a link to the announcement? Looked on their website and couldn't find the announcement. And Google and pinside search was unsuccessful. Just trying to find out if this is for their existing boards, or if they are changing/updating their board to do this.

ColorDMD wise what do people recommend for the brightest Dots?

Just got the game today... Pulled the play field out to put in a few new LEDs, and when I tried to fire the game up I'm getting an error from Switch 34, and then gun is not firing the ball at all. Can anyone point me to where Switch 34 is, and how I can resolve this. Thanks

Switch 34 is the gun trigger. Maybe knocked something lose.

Anywhere in particular I should check? I disconnect the molex from the gun, and when I test the end going into the machine, it shows activity on Switch 44.

Open the gun assembly and adjust the switch. Also, replace the spring inside for good measure.

Hi Everyone.

Just trying to to help Damien out over the phone tonight.

Running through some tests, we've discovered:

Solenoid Test: all coils fire
Switch Test: column#3 no switches are registering
Colum#3 switches are:
Left eject(31), Exit Idol(32), Lt Sling(33), Gun Trigger(34), Lt Jet(35), Rt Jet(36), Bt Jet(37), Center Standup(38)

There is no DMM available to test wiring (continuity etc...) at the moment and I'm not sure that we could try the jumper testing of the switches safely over the phone.

Do you think that something could have happened to U20 on the CPU board (2803A - transistor IC)?

Damien is going to try to reach out to a local repair fellow to look at it but in the mean time what else can be tested?

Thank you.

I had once all kind of switches going out. Was all on the same connector, was a fuse, easy to fix. Do not know if these are all on the same row these switches.

Sounds like a short. It is possible that when you were replacing lights you shorted something causing the u20 to go. (esp if the game was on). Or, you have a bad connection at the left eject.

I literally had the same thing happened to me recently. I was changing out lights and I ended up blowing out the U20. No items you mentioned worked either. It's probably the U20. They're cheap and if socketed already should be easy replacement. If not they're is a board guy on these boards named Chris Hibler who should be able to help.

Check the pinsound topic on these boards. Last page or second
It's all in there confirmed by developer

I thought I had a u20 issue too, but it was the switch on the underside of the POA right above the mode start saucer. Check to see if it's bent from the ball hitting it. It eliminates the diode and screws up your switch matrix.

Thanks Delt... finally found it. From what I'm reading, we would need to wait for them to release the kit due to someone else trying to hook their own relay up to the board and messing up some stuff. It's unclear in the unofficial "announcement" if the kit will work with existing boards or if the board will be updated... very limited information. I think I will wait til the kit is released rather than risk the chance that backwards compatibility with the kit won't be there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinsound-card-reviews-anyone/page/20#post-3738526

As an FYI... I've also been waiting since last years "announcement" that whitestar support is coming. Learned to be patient in this hobby for sure.

And this is the only one solution to prevent the switch matrix for short circuit.

Also you can see the hole protector and the modified ball deflector to catch the balls much more better then before.

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Yeah hasn't been released yet. I've played the IJ with shaker.... Wasn't that impressed but a why not if you can get it.

This is always a great suggestion, I have confirmed that the switch leads and diode are not touching each other but I will have Damien take a picture just in case. I do think that the other comments regarding the swapping of lights is on the right track, now it is just to determine what and where the root cause is.

I'm picking up a DMM after work, and I'll see what I can provide you from there. Should I be testing the fuses on the board, or off?

Not sure if this helps, but here is a photo of fuse F115. Does it look burned out?

IMG_20170515_184639 (resized).jpg

Hard to tell with a photo.

Update: F115 fuse tests ok!

remove the fuse from the board and test it for continuity with an ohm meter or buzz box.

Thank you all for your help. Replaced the IC in U20 and it's back up and working!

Wondering if you guys can chime in and tell me if this sounds like it's dialed in right:

- Mode saucer ejects ball and it hit the top of the slingshot, and then bounces over to the right flipper. Most of the videos I've watched shows it dropping to the left flipper first.

- When ball comes out of bumpers, and comes down the Super Jackpot lane, it often goes right down the middle unless I give it a nudge and save it.

- When ball is launched, it goes to the "I" in INDY about 90% of the time.

I've leveled everything nicely, so I'm just wondering if the above sounds like normal IJ activity.

Also, I know I've seen fixes for the Mode saucer rejecting balls using foam. I ended up lining the left guide and backplate with magnetic tape and it seems to have made a slight improvement.

Saucer eject: mine does this 99% of the time
Bumpers: mine never does this
Top rollover lanes: mine is fairly random

Left flipper.
Right flipper.
Mine goes to the Y most of the time.
Screw the tape. Take out the backplate and put foam all around the enclosure. Thank me later.

+1 on all. Especially take out the backplate. I just saw mine in my pinball repair bag and I literally mocked it. So much better without it.