Ut ohh....having a few problems with one week old Indy.
It's a refurbed reimport. Should I swap out the 5amp slow blow for an 8amp at the inline power box?
If someone could answer that, then I'll go into how it blew 6 fuses last night.
Bummed, I need to start from scratch at power box and work my way up to the boards.
It has been on a lot since purchase. Was eating dinner last night looking at it, and it just went black and tried to RE boot, all is dark now.

Brand new owner!!!! Looking forward to exploring this well thought out machine. Arrived with a couple of quirks which i nailed down to a shorted opto wire which blew Fuse 116 and hence everything wasnt working well. I am sure I will have questions going forward. Sold my TZ for this one as I didnt bond real well with the TZ.

Bruce

New owner here as well. One owner machine with very low plays, had large collection nearly 30 pinball machines in all.

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All these new owners has now got me looking for an Indy in the Northwest!

Willing to spend up to 8K for a Williams Indiana Jones. Any condition considered, but the playfield must be nice. I don't want a game with cracked, broken or ghosting inserts. Let me know what you have. Thanks!

Only if you want to destroy a board.

Get a resettable fuse....5amp in this case. Every Time it blows you just push the button and it resets. It will look something like this:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Thermal-Push-Button-Breakers/p_539615.h_806427.r_IF1003?mkwid=sIDeGB8L5&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CjwKEAiA2OzDBRCdqIyIqYaaqQoSJABeJZdiuLfye6nZm_vrKBABE8WBjgZlDQ9GwNO1ep64jmj2aBoCDVvw_wcB

I didn't include all info.
That was replace the 5amp slow blow with the manual stated 8amp fast blow/normal blow?
This is for the fuse at inline power box.

Oh....yeah, make sure you use the right fuse. If it was originally an 8 then get an 8.

Okay group- I have what appears to be a similar problem as I have read through the forum, but I am looking for which order to look at things. When my new to me machine arrived from the previous owner, it played for a little bit. Then I completed the 3 drop targets and locked a ball- nothing happened. The ball didnt go to the idol, a new ball didnt come from the trough. Then I powered it off and on and the trough just spit out balls continuously and the game didnt respond at all, flippers etc. also I noticed the error messages of the mini playfield, the idol and the 3bank drop target. Looking online it suggested Fuse 116 was the culprit and indeed when replaced, the game restarted normally. The mini playfield message was gone as was the idol and both worked in test mode. The 3 bank drop target message was still there, but then I started to play and the drop targets acted normally, the locked ball went to the idol and a new ball was given from the trough. It also removed the error message at next startup. I assumed it was something stored in ROM that had not cleared.

So I began to change some Leds etc. went back to the game and was getting the error message about the 3 bank drop targets switch/coil, Eventually F116 blew again after a game or two. Unfortunately I also had to remove my color dmd because it must use a power supply that is also connected to this circuit.

I put the original DMD back in so I could read the error messages and we are back to square one with the mini-playfield switch coil message, the idol coil message and the 3 bank drop target message. Also upon boot, the Idol kick up coil fires repeatedly ( as if it thinks there should be a ball there and if you listen to it long enough it will then change to the trough ball delivery kickout going off continuously.

When I originally had the problem, I noticed there was a wire on one of the Idol optos disconnect and I thought that may have shorted and blown the fuse, but that theory ( although it needed to be reattached) was incorrect.

Where do I start my diagnostics for what is blowing this fuse, before I dig ito the bridge rectifier theory. Logically i am lead to the 3 bank drop target and maybe that board has gone bad. Any help or guidance as always is appreciated. This is a beautifully difficult machine and I dying to get it set up right.

P.s.I have looked at the mashed switch at the bottom right of the mini playfield, and although it has seen some action, nothing is touching and the diode seems to be intact.

Thanks, Bruce

Has anyone had issues with their three bank drop target solenoid being unable to lift the targets? I recently swapped out my drop targets for the lit target mod. They worked fine all day yesterday and towards the end of the day they were struggling to lift. You would hear the solenoid fire but it didn't have enough power to raise the targets. I realigned the bracket to make sure they weren't catching on the playfield. They raise now during play but it seems the solenoid has to fire twice. I will hear it fire, you can see the targets twitch and then after it fires again the targets pop up. Do the solenoids get weak over time?

Anybody have a video of the jackpot board? Contemplating installing it and can't find any images. Worth it? Thanks.

I did a full 3-bank drop target upgrade a few months ago. My middle target would not stay up. Turns out it needed a need target (replaced all 3 of them) and also had a bend lift plate. I decided to replace every single part (including brand new springs) since I had the whole assembly out of the game. Put everything back in the game and sure enough, My targets would not engage, the coil would fire a couple of times to get them to stay up but they wouldn't. Turns out the new springs were SUPER tight. Put the old springs back in and problem solved! My 3 bank drop targets work perfectly now. Maybe something you might want to look at.

No takers on the opto problem- lets see if I can at least narrow it down to whether its a playfield problem, a voltage problem on the board itself. I assume if I test the 12Volt test point and its 12 Volts then the problem is not with the board itself- correct? I am a bit new to board testing so is there a particular spot you measure the 12volts at?

Bruce

I am starting to wonder if something is happening that is magnetizing the bracket, the solenoid, or the coil stops... i had similar type issue on my idol gate... It is working now, after I changed out the coil sleeve, and cleaned it up really nice.

Thanks, now that you mention it I put a strong spring in the single drop and it wouldn't pull it up. Maybe I can swap out the three bank with flipper springs, they might be weaker.

Yes, that should take care of your issue. Either a flipper spring or just use one of the old springs you took out from the 3 bank drop targets. That's what I did. Works like a charm! You can probably change springs without having to remove the whole assembly. Let us know if it worked out for you. Good luck!

Swapped the springs, works like a charm. Someone else asked me to post pics of my lit drops. See below. They are good quality construction wise. The light looks more like a mode hole light as it is more lit at the bottom as opposed to lighting up the whole drop target. Thought maybe the whole drop target would glow. I took the pic to with all the lights in the room off and no flash. Maybe I should try pulling the GI light out from behind the drop on the left. Overall they are cool.

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I'm completely shopping out mine. Not done yet. Added color matching titan competition rings and replaced all star posts with new color matching posts. Added color matching titan post rubber, Installed lost plastic, removed the strike plate at the mode hole and added dead foam around the hole, all ramps including idol getting brass plated, replaced red lane dividers with yellow lane dividers, metal ball guides regrained, added inner cab decals and lots more! Not done yet...I'll post more pics later! Here's some pics....

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Try polishing those ramps first. I was going to have mine plated and I polished with brass cleaner and they came out great. Save money. Also, order some skinny post rubber for your poa ramp. It's a bitch to hit and it opens it up a bit. Still a tough shot.

Too late, ramps are almost done. Great tip on the post rubber! Yes, verrrry tough shot. Not done with the complete shop out yet.

Might sell the game in the near future. Whoever buys this game is going to buy one hell of a game.

Honestly The game didn't need all these upgrades. It all started when I decided to remove the strike plate (A necessary evil in order to fully enjoy the game) I decided to keep on going and going and never stopped! Lol. Been wanting to Brass plate the idol for a long time. I love IJ, Not in a rush to sell it, but it will be in the Market Place in the near future.

What toppers are available for Indy?
Been looking around for couple months haven't even seen one good one available.
What has the group come up with?
Would love to see pics of toppers!!!!

So I finally got around to installing a PinSound board and Flipper Fidelity speakers in my IJ with Endprodukt's reorchestrations. All I can say is wow. Officially the best use of a PinSound board by me to date, a close second is my Jurassic Park followed by my T2 then my STTNG and then my TZ.

Maybe it is just the nostalgia of hearing high quality call outs from the films mixed with significantly improved music. Either way I high suggest this upgrade.

Hi everyone out/in here...
Im in the market for a IJ but might want to check on site for possible defects of bugs that are common to thuis machine. Is there a list somewhere I could check out when inspecting a possible machine....
Thanks for all your help in advance

I still need to do this!

Does anybody know where this plastic goes? Thanks!

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Upper left corner, over the "jackpot return ramp." I can shoot a picture of it when I get home.

Yes please do, Thanks!

before and after pics of the gold chrome idol plating.

[email protected]
www.pinballplatingandmore.com

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Which one is mine?

it will be one of the gold ones.

LOL!

Nicely done sir!

Does anyone know where I can purchase an IJ rotor lock door, part number 03-8844?

Great part to re-run! Needs to happen, been out of stock for long time.

I've been having random switch error on #45, center subway optos, under playfield in metal subway. Sometimes no error, but now back for several days. Taking a business card and waving by optos in switch test I'm getting nothing now.
Ideas, just replace optos?
Thanks

Check if transmitter is glowing using cellphone camera and look for cold solder on transmitter and receiver diodes.

Available thru a Dutch site...

http://www.multigameshop.nl/rotor-lock.html

13 euro ex S&H

Looking for a collector quality IJ playfield. Anyone?

Check with Pinsider Kruzman....he restores playfields to perfection and might have one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/kruzman

I betting an Indy playfield long gone. I've only seen one for sale in 5 years.

I never saw the point of that plastic, not like you get air balls in that spot. I removed mine.

I was having problems with my 3 bank drop target. Ordered new coil sleeve kit for Indy.
Spent yesterday watching game and working on Indy. Turns out my coil stop screw posts, one is broken off and the other is going to break off. 3 bank target bracket sold out everywhere. The screws are welded on. No fixing this one.
Anyone have a extra 3 bank bracket they want to sell?
Please pm me.

Also looking for the 3 bank drop target cliffy!
Anyone, cliffy and 3-bank bracket?

Added over 7 years ago: Found- Fellow pinsider helped me out!

I also couldn't find anyone with stock of the protectors, so I contacted Cliff directly and bought them from him within the last couple of weeks (he was quick to respond). His email is on his passionforpinball site.

Trying to diagnose what is wrong with my path of adventure. It has never really worked since I got the machine, but it used to respond to the coin door switches in test. I decided to remove the POA and try to test some things to see if I could figure out what the issue is. After removing the POA, when I start the game up and go to the POA test, I get errors saying the POA motor is bad. If I go to switch test and try to trigger the optos by hand for the poa, I get no response. So I'm not sure there is an issue with the motor or with optos/opto board at this point.

Does anyone have ideas on how to narrow it down?

Did you make sure you plugged in all the connectors underneath the playfield when putting the POA back?

Duplicate post

I had the POA still connected to the three wire harnesses while testing and didn't get any positive results. I tried to manually trigger the optos and operate the motor in switch test, but it was just saying bad mini PF. I currently have the mini pf completely disconnected in order to raise the playfield and navigate around the area, but everything was connected while testing.

Hey guys, I've been slowly working on my Indy over the last, cough, cough, year..
Anyway, I've been stuck with an annoying problem with my drop targets. My original board started failing, the left target stopped registering, then the right. I bought a replacement board, converted the IDC to trifurcon connector, and plugged it all back in, and still get the left and right drops not registering. I'm not sure what I'm missing here, I've tried a total of three different drop boards and they all do the same thing, left and right will not register, the center is fine. I've removed the board, gone into switch test and shorted each opto to ground where they all register. I've checked voltage on the board and get 12.86 volts at the board, my ground is reading anywhere from 1.8 to .8 volts which seems like a bad thing. Is that bit of current from ground keeping the left and right optos closed? If so, why is the center opto NOT affected?
tired of banging my head into the proverbial brick wall on this one.
Thanks!

Try refowing the solder joints on the pins.

Agree with smiley above. Reflow the connector on the 3 bank. If that doesn't work you have a loose wire in head on boards somewhere.

I'm going through an IJ and trying to figure out if I have some missing pieces related to the ball diverter in the upper right ramp.

I looked at the a-16301 diagram on 2-33 of the manual, and I do have that coil that the diverter arm connects to.
What seems funky is that the arm just seems floppy-floppy (technical term) with no resistance in either direction. It also didn't seem to "return" to a certain position (like I would expect a flipper to do). In other words, I can flip it back and forth, and it will stay wherever I put it.

Finally, the bottom of the guide seems like it is grinding on the bottom of the ramp. It seem a like there should be some kind of bushing between the ramp and the arm?

I'm not sure how this is supposed to normally operate, but this doesn't seem like it is as it is supposed to be.