The double sided tape was all I had laying around. I think I doubled it up. Just leave the paper on the side facing out. Don't want ball sticking to it. I'm sure pad will work fine also. I wonder if it will act as a bumper though. You want it to deaden the ball, not bounce it.

To be clear: It was dead drop foam from Pinbits, and the double-sided tape to hold down a Cliffy (which is a misnomer because it's all like one sheet of adhesive) is from Pinrestore.com.

Yes sir! I ordered just that. Not installing the cliffy this time. Just waiting for it to arrive along with the mode plastic.

Guys do any of you know what size and type of screw goes into the captive ball cage? I'm looking for the screw that goes on top on the backpanel. It holds the cage in place. I just noticed that I'm missing it. Tried some other screws on the back panel but they are too short and I honestly don't know if they are 6-32 or whatever. Thanks for everything! You guys rock! Thank you for your patience!

I don't have a Clift on my mode start hole but I was wondering if you could just use the original screws that hole the stop plate to hold the cliffy down without the plate there? Maybe a little foam on them.

The screw that goes there...

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But the ball will be hitting them and jumping all over the place I assume. The ball will get nicked I assume. May not be a good Idea if you ask me.....

I really appreciate the reply. I'll check for misalignment but will also order a new set.

Technically I'm using double sided taped for both. Foamy tape for rail. Super thin stuff for cliffy. If you don't have cliffy you don't need thin stuff. If you ordered Pinbits foam you don't need my make shift double sided tape

I have finished repairing the IJ I brought home a week ago. I added a plastic protector set and couldn't get a nut on the post that holds the back of the white biplane on and had to reposition the plane. I will eventually pull that section apart and change the post out but as it was 2:30am when I got to this point, I decided sleep was winning. Now to get a replacement lockdown bar and have the gun plated or powder coated.

Did the same thing last night. Started replacing a few rubbers, next thing you know, machine half torn down replacing posts and bulbs.
1am had to call it done for night.

I hear you. I'm neurotic and don't stop till it's finished. Working till 2am up at 5am. It's a serious problem. Searching for shit during work, researching issues, etc. Sometimes I think I need to sell them all before I get divorced or lose my job. No joke, I often think to myself, this is what addiction feels like. I know it's wrong, I just can't stop. Doesn't help that my machines have to be perfect. Every bulb. That's hard to do with pinball but somehow I managed on five machines.

Good thing you mention this. Maybe you can help me by telling me the correct size and type of screw for the captive ball cage? Please see post 1305. Thanks!

Glad to hear I'm not the only one. And no local chapter of pin-aholics anonymous for me either.

Maybe we should setup a pinball addiction support hotline?

Isn't it the same as the three that attach the bridge to the back? Take one out and see. If so, take it to hardware store. They look identical on mine.

On mine, those are too small. I'll just try the hardware store I guess. Thanks!

You mean short? I'll look at mine tomorrow.

I've been working on a T shirt for this pinball problem we have.
You know you have a pinball problem when....
There's a pin in the kitchen.
More than 2 projects in garage folded up.
You have to many and forget all your title's.
You have a MOD older than a year now not installed.
Machines are in four rooms at your houae
One room dedicated to parts.
You bought a ramp for a machine and your current ramp is perfect.
You like your leg bolts to be perfect.
Only you know how clean your lower cabinet is.
You stay up late working on them.
You wake up every morning and read pinside with first cup of coffee.
You immediately find a part you have to have, now.
The list grows.

I didn't look, but if there isn't already a thread on this one, you gotta start it.

I'd add this to the list.

You are reading and posting to pinside from your phone while out in a bar with your wife on New Year's Eve!

Lol. This!

Yeah too short sorry. Thanks!

Take other bolt in. Get longer one with nut. Done.

Is it a good idea to install the lamp board to illuminate the bridge with the lost plastic installed? I just think the light will get blocked big time by the lost plastic....any suggestions are much appreciated! Thanks!

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I think so but you're right in the sense that most of the light is concentrated at the rope bridge plastic. You won't see much light being that the rope bridge plastic blocks it too.

Close up and from players perspective. I personally prefer it but it doesn't give you a highlight of the lost plastic.

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Oh man! That sure look nice tho! Is the light you have the same one I posted the pic of? How does it actually hook up and how is it secured to the panel? Thanks!

I think I got it from Marco but maybe was Pinbits. Either way, a little searching and here's the Pinbits one: https://mrtn.smugmug.com/Photos/Pinball/2010-02-14/n-G4stB/i-GjvccRr

I sent you the same link in a PM.

Thank you so much!

I used an amber strip from Comet. Lights it up perfectly and you can't see direct light from a players perspective.

I had my POA off for adjustments this weekend so I used that opportunity to remove the mode start saucer strike plate as has been suggested. I had previously been loath to change anything on the mode start saucer as my game had always been fairly reliable. Recently though I have noticed that bounce outs have been occurring more often. As beelzeboob and others have said this fix appears to work perfectly; no bounce outs since I made the change. I do miss that satifying "thunk" sound the strike plate made though.

Since I had some dead drop foam I added I piece to the back as well as the left side. Not sure the left side was really necessary.

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Good for you! Did you have any issues getting it perfectly leveled?

Btw, Do you remember if the POA's 3 harnesses connect to the same colored wires on the bottom harnesses?

I forgot to take pictures of the POA harnesses and I noticed that on the right ramp, the connections didn't necessarily connect to same colored wires/harness. But I did take a picture of those. I just wanted to make sure before I reconnect the POA. If you happen to have a pic, can you please post it? Thanks!

If you had a Pinsound card with the reorchestrations, you wouldn't be able to hear it anyway.

I do and it's f$%*ing amazing!!!! The PinSound card in my Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure is by far the best mod I've ever done to any of my pins.

Hmmmm, maybe I can add that thunk sound to the PinSound card for the mode start.... (not really, don't miss it that much.)

However if anyone wants to send me a recording of Gandalf's "Multiball!" callout from The Hobbit I'd love to throw that into my IJ mix for fun.

Solenoid 28 is likely firing because the subway lockup is in column 4 and with it out it likely thinks there is a ball there.

When on optos are reverse of switches (Normally Closed instead of Normally Open if my tired mind isn't getting that backward?) so what you're seeing with testing continuity if likely correct.

When you say the column is completely out- do you mean in Switch Edge test none of the switches register when manually tested? In the switch level test do the optos for that column show open or closed?

Also- although this would impact more than just column 4 make sure fuses F115 and/or F116 are not blown... I only mention this because I've come back to solenoid 28 constantly firing after one of these fuses has blown.

I came to the realization that there is no level adjustment for the POA; the shaft and collar are keyed with a flat side and if the set screw is going to remain tightly secured it can really only be tightened directly over the flat. With that in mind I stopped worrying about having the POA perfectly level when I tightened the set screw. I did make sure the opto interrupter bar was centered in-between the two optos first though. It does look slightly off level at rest- to the right... but it plays absolutely perfectly now. 100% reliable. The only other thing I did was move the Jackpot plastic forward (by moving the left screw to the next screw hole and slightly bending it forward) since the POA seemed to hit it when it was turned all the way to the right.

Sorry- don't have pictures of those harnesses- let me know if you have trouble and I'll lift the playfield to take a look.

Thanks so much for that info! Yeah, Please take a pic next time you lift the playfield. Just to be on the safe side. Thanks a lot!

Here's some pics of the harnesses- all the colors match so it should be easy to differentiate between the 2 6-pin connectors.

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Here's some pics after I adjusted my Jackpot plastic so the POA would not hit it:

Notice that the left side of the jackpot plastic is now screwed into the forward screw hole so it is at a slight angle. I also slightly bent the plastic's vertical metal frame forward to move it further away from the POA.
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In this picture the POA is all the way to the right. It's close, but the POA is no longer hitting the jackpot plastic.
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Finally, I have found that use of the pictured lubricant will ensure optimal playing conditions:
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Thank you! Enjoy!

I had my speaker panel out so I was able to confirm: I do have the Marco board and it comes with spacers and screws that you install. The wiring is two connectors that go on your power driver board in empty spaces. You may be able to zoom in on my photo to see which ones.

I would suggest that you use shorter spacers as well as shorter screws as you can tell it sits a bit high. The white trim is what I did to mask light coming into the ColorDMD LCD. I did fit the LED one in today and it fits without in the way of the jackpot board. It also looks better IMHO.

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Thank you for that! Actually, I was talking about the light that mounts on the back panel where the "lost plastic" goes. The lamp board that lights the bridge. But this is also great information as I plan on adding this light too in the near future. Thanks!

Proud Papa and New owner of an Indy!!!
Been a long hunt, looked during all of 2016, passed on several, missed a few others.
But finally found a gem.

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Now the work begins and moding!
Pinsound, ColorDMD, upgrade speakers, all I will be adding in month ahead.
What Mods does everyone like the most?
I have lighted rope bridge, lost plastic, and idol lights on speaker panel. Those I was already going to get just to find out there already in there.

First of many questions gang.
Switch 45 in subway under playfield. It's two opto's. My only non working switch.
I ran the line and wires all the way to CPU. Wiring is good. I think there just dead. At least the transimitter side is dead. Is this common, I have lots a pins and done this for awhile, never really seen a dead opto?
What am I missing here, would like this one credit dot to go away.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.

Yep, replaced mine 9 months ago. I am a rookie, but are you certain the transmitter is dead?? If you are sure it is, then replace both transmitter and receiver.

I'm sure, also flasher underneath was blown, the post of flasher was touching the receiver side.
Thanks.

I also ended up replacing the Trough Opto boards with the Great Lakes Modular boards.

My guess is those Optos (45 center hole and trough) take a lot of vibration.

Good luck!!!

Can someone help me out with 600dpi scans of the left and right wing decals on the apron?

Small update on the deflector plastic I had been designing for above the drop targets to reduce airballs. I had shaped the plastic a bit and was preparing to get this scanned and converted to a cad file so we could get pricing on multiple orders. However, last week the middle drop target of the front bank snapped off after a ball strike during a game. They were a bit old (original?) anyway, so I'm not overly worried, but I want to replace them (already received new ones from Marco) first. My goal is to put the new targets on and play for a few weeks or more to see if there is any unintended wear on the targets. I really think the breaking was due to the age of the targets, but the last thing I want to do is put a mod out there that somehow squeezes the ball between the deflector and the target as it rebounds and puts undue stress on the target. Especially for anyone who has replaced their drops with the LED target mod that can be quite expensive. I think the thicker LED targets may reduce airballs anyway, so not sure you would need/want to do both.

Bottom line, it may be a while before I offer these up for sale for anyone, but if anyone makes their own out of the pictures/descriptions already posted in this thread, please share with me if you get any targets breaking.