This was my original thoughts. But didn't want to spend time cutting and shaping if it didn't even deflect the airballs. Wanted to play it for a few weeks to make sure there weren't any unwanted side effects (like stuck balls, etc). Also made a smaller version for the back target to stop those airballs as well. After I find out how much to get these laser cut I would sell both as a package at pretty much cost of materials, labor and shipping.

And in all fairness, my design thoughts for this came from and original idea in a thread for POTC where someone wanted to remove the sneeze guard from the pirate ship. Much larger area with more curves and his design came out great.

Would target foam work for the strike plate issue?

I just removed my strike plate to see if the foam method works best. The only issue is that, upon testing with a ball by hand, the ball does seem to jump A LOT when it hits the hole to the point that it sometimes crosses the rail and goes back there! I'm afraid this would make the ball hit the POA during game play. Does this happen to any of you? Thanks!

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No, it won't work, because the flippers are more powerfull than your hand, and the foam piece that you use will act as a spring...
You need to straighten the strike plate and use a rubber pad instead, plus a piece of foam that you stick under the plastic to slow down the ball. I tried all the others stuffs and this one is the only one which stops the ball each time.
I will post pictures later and you will see more clearly.

I'm tired of saying this, so I'll just quote myself from now on.

If Chris at HEP couldn't figure out a solution to the scoop rejection problem, neither will anybody else. Use the above advice that I'm getting tired of repeating and never worry about it again.

It won't once you install the playfield plastic.

SO, Beezlebob is spot on correct here. I have come up with some simple to implement low cost "fixes", that are about 85% effective. Far better than the 10% I was getting before, but not what it should be.

I am not super confident with disassembly of PoA mini play field, but the next time I have to do it for another reason, I will do what beezlebob recommends. That, and I can't seem to find drop dead foam... out of stock on pinbits.com. Until then, my cheap fix is working pretty darn well, and allowing me to greatly enjoy the game again.

Point of emphasis - since you have the game pulled apart ABSOLUTELY do what beezle says, that is a no brainer.

Do you have a pictures installed?

So, I have my IJ really dialed in now, and just have to say it is such an awesome machine. Such a great integration of the Movies into the game. A mode that doesn't get much attention that I think is so well done is "Well of Souls", a six ball multiball with awards for making center shot. Sounds somewhat easy, but it seems like all six balls are swirling around and near the center shot, thereby blocking a straight shot. How in the heck the game designers ever created this is super cool and very well done.

Pic?

I would totally do this but my issue is the strike plate/scope holds the cliffy for that spot in place.

I'm a sucker for chaotic multiball modes and this one is my favorite. Also enjoy Jurassic Park's Chaos multiball, Demolition Man's 5 ball, and whatever LAH's 6 ball mode is called.

No reason to suffer. Get some 3M 467MP Adhesive tape from the wonderful people at PinRestore (pick up a bunch of other great stuff as well) and coat the entire underside of your Cliffy. It's what Cliff uses on the front lip of the Cliffy already, anyway. Stick it on, trim around the Cliffy with an Xacto knife, and reapply. Voila! Scroll down on this page to find it, and look around their site. It's helped me numerous times.

http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

I give it a try, thanks boob.

Here is what I did, I straightened the strike plate, and stuck a rubber pad on it.
But if you just use this piece, the ball will keep do a rebound, you need to slow down the ball.

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So, I use a piece of foam that I cut in a triangle form, and I stuck it under the plastic as shown.

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At this point, the foam needs to be big enought to slow the ball, but also not too much to allow the ball to be ejected.
When in place, the ball is never rejected again! And you almost don't see it because there is the mini playfield above.
here is a cheap and effective way...

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Someone has posted pics of this on Pinside before. A search on threads about the IJ mode hole should net you some wonderful pics. And no...I'm not taking mine apart to take pictures for you.

i just ordered some from pinbits

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=a04ce7477a01f7351e5da073dc10211f

It's amazing the amount of discussion this topics gets. I have only had and IJ for two weeks an was able to remedy and forget the problem.

1. Remove plate.
2. Place foam on back rail.
3. Add tape under cliffy
4. Enjoy play

If you can't take apart the mini playfield you have no business owning an IJ. You don't even need to remove it, just move it to the side to get at the mode hole. It is a simple process.

I'm literally tempted to make a tutorial on youtube even though I have already done mine just to kill this topic.

No offense but this looks like shit. Just remove the plate.

Ok, I did take it completely out but thanks to you guys I just found out I've been missing the platic above the saucer hole all this time! WOW! I never noticed it since it gets covered by the POA!

So I have to buy this plastic (part number please?) Then just add drop dead foam to the back and to the plastic and I'm done correct? Can you at least take a picture inside the saucer hole? Thanks!

George

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Please do! I don't want to mess this up....

Is this plastic only held by the front 2 screws?

Anybody have the part number please?

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Add tape under the cliffy? Do I have to add a cliffy to make this work? A little confused sorry man....

OK, now with all this discussion...
Can someone show me a picture of the cliffy? Does cliffy go in the hole or around it?
Thanks new owner...Just learning a new machine.

You say to add tape under cliffy, But doesn't the cliffy need the strike plate to be held in place?

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Thanks for pic of cliffy! Im no expert but it looks like you need the strike plate to hold it.

No problem, I'm just confused because supposedly you have to remove the plate and then add tape to the cliffy? Hopefully djshakes can chime in soon....

I may have a solution to the backplate fix and the eject hole cliffy mounting. But it's in a warehouse full of other fixes that I'm acquiring soon and I will release pics and a list of the fix after the first of the year when I get time to unbox everything.

Wait... wrong thread... apologies. Please resume your normal banter about all the fixes.

Would sticking tape under the cliffy raise it up and not be completely flush with the hole?

Is a cliffy absolutely necessary to fix this issue? Can the dead foam alone fix this?

a cliffy is not necessary at all, its a personal preference.

Yes but with the strike plate removed the only way to place a cliffy there is with tape correct? Would the tape raise the cliffy and make it not be flush with the hole?

the tape wont raise it anymore then it already would be, the cliffy comes with some tape on the front half, you are just adding more to the back half to really make sure it doesnt move without the strike plate holding it down.

How are you gonna release this solution? Youtube video? Embedded Twitch stream? Gosh, I'd imagine such a heavy issue will leave you with many a restless night. Good luck!

What tape should I use please?

In the link boob provided.

Isn't that tape for the back rail/wall to slow the ball down?

no, that is this.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=a04ce7477a01f7351e5da073dc10211f

The cliffy is an option. I bought cliffys before I knew of this mode hole issue. If you have a cliffy the strike plate holds it down, when you remove the plate u need another method to hold cliffy in place. I recently bought mirror blades and they come with thin two sided tape. Any hardware store should have this. Apply it to cliffy if you are using one. The tape is thin so it will fit flush. If not using a cliffy, ignore. Remove the strike plate, put foamy two way tape our some sort of cushion on rail behind. Put the playfield plastic back. It is held on by two screws in the front. Go on eBay and type in Indiana Jones mode hole plastic and one will pop up most likely. You don't need to modify the plastic by putting foam shit under it that looks guady as shit.

Dr. Willy...I'm-a gonna let you take this one from here. I think I just ran out of Xanax.

all good ill get these guys set straight

LOL! Thanks for advise on removing the strike plate man!

Thanks for the explanation! I will follow this instructions to the letter.

Do I really have to lower the saucer hole in order for this to work?

Thanks for the link! On the foam for the rail, did you also put foam on the side rail or just on the back rail? Thanks!!!

I'd buy one too

What he said

I don't know, I just did it. I'll get some pics tonight after wife goes to bed.

That would be awesome! Thank you sir!

First off, I'd love a tutorial vid on the mode start saucer fix as I'm still kinda new at this and I always learn a ton from you guys when I have an issue. Speaking of issues, I've got one that I would appreciate some help diagnosing and fixing:

I am getting phantom "you cheat dr. Jones" and ball locks. It doesn't seem to be specific to any particular switch being hit. I already checked what else is in same column and row of the switch matrix to the idol center enter opto but no patterns emerge. I even noticed it registered tonight while I was on the phone with a ball in the shooter lane waiting to start ball 3. I've already cleaned the opto transmitter and receiver. I experienced this issue a month ago but it went away until a few days ago and now it's happening somewhat regularly.

Is this likely just a bad opto pair? I checked in switch edge test and no amount of shaking the machine or other switch hits trigger it.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Those optos are always problematic, and hold a special place in my heart. My first IJ problem when I got my machine. Change out the optos and you should be good to go. If not, there's a connection problem or a problem in the opto board. But it should just be the optos. First check that they're not misaligned...there's a whole lot of balls slamming into that area and they could have moved out of alignment.

Okay, here are pics. Your manual tells how to remove mini playfield. As you can see I have two way tape in back. I bought a blue bumper pad from pinball life maybe I'll use in future. The tape works fine now. Washers are standard size. You can see I tried the elongated holes on my plate. Didn't work and it's going in the trash after this post

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So you are using the double sided tape for the back...I already ordered the tape from pinbits as suggested by beelzeboob Why are you using double sided tape for the back tho?

I'm sure both works just fine. So, what about the blue pad? I got one of those. Would that work as well? Thanks for the pics! Meanwhile, since I'm doing this major shop job, I decided to install the lost plastic! What a difference huh?

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