Thanks! The thing is that after I light all of them they all flash at the same time, then if I continue hitting the rollover lanes (after lighting all of them) makes a few friends solid but not all of them....the rest keep flashing....is that normal? Thanks!

Can you provide a bit more detail on doing that? How far? Maybe a photo?

Thank you!

Yes, behind the strike plate there is a rail correct? Install this rail, then move the strike plate as far back possible without going past this rail. Pretty much the strike plate should be right next to this rail. Remember don't go past this rail underneath. All you have to do is screw this strike plate as far back as possible without going past this rail. The idea is to let the ball have more room to land in the hole. Post pics of your current strike plate holes.

Mark a straight line in each of the current 3 holes where the screws go into and just make a new holes further back. Use a small drill bit, (don't make the holes too big) just enough for the screws to go in. There are lots of pictures out there. Just search "Indiana Jones Strike Plate" and you should get lots of info on and pics on this issue. This has to be done in order for you to truly enjoy IJ. Good luck

George

Korn. They go solid when u make a full loop shot but only when the loop shot has a flashing arrow insert. U light a flashing arrow via the opposite in lane or ramp (which ends by rolling over the inlane).
Each lit loop made makes one friend solid and the rest flash til u get 5 lit loops completed. Then u get to loop jackpot. U can boost loop jackpot higher by making more loops before hitting the right ramp.

Remove the strike plate altogether and put a piece of foam on the rail behind hole. Lower the saucer a bit with washers, problems solved. Moving the strike plate back for me didn't work. This technique seems to work best for most.

I put a piece of dense foam (drop dead foam I think it's called) on the strike plate behind the saucer and it helps a lot...but doesn't fully solve the problem. How many washers did you use (how much should the saucer be lowered)? A pic would be awesome.

Has anyone installed the ColorDMD LED in one yet? I have a LCD one and having the jackpot light board in there I really had to space my LCD out to clear. Since I like dots on the B/W machines, I figured I'd move the LCD over to my Met or AC/DC and put a LED one in.

Anyone done and regretted? I have two LED versions and like them but I will say it takes some tweaks from game to game.

Thanks so much!!!

100% satisfaction switching from LCD to LED. Looks like what the factory would have sold if they had color in 1993.

Do they get solid in any particular order when doing the loop shots?

Going back to the strike plate issue: This works for a lot of people and for some people the foam method works best. All I'm saying is this, move the strike plate back now that you have your playfield torn apart. If it works (most likely) then great. Is it doesn't, then you can simply add the foam and problem solved.

If your playfield wasn't torn apart already, I would recommend doing the foam method first because it could save you a lot of work and time and you avoid doing all the work by simply adding foam and lowering the saucer hole.

The foam method saves you a lot of work and time and its worth a try. But since you have your playfield torn apart, just move the plate back now since you already did all the hard work. If it doesn't work for you (most likely will) then you can add the foam and lower the saucer hole as a last resort. Good luck

IJ restoration continues...... Bad cabinet speaker, coin door incomplete. menu buttons destroyed, operators works here and there....

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Wire Ramps and legs are here with new gold chrome!!!! They look gorgeous!!

Gustavo

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Just use a regular washer size thickness.

Get rid of that worthless strike plate. It only causes problems. I tried modifying mine, enlongating holes etc. Just remove it and the game will play as it was meant to. I just put a piece of two way tape on the rail behind it. That tape is foamy. Just don't peel off the tape backing on the side facing out. Don't want your ball to stick to it, lol.

Finally......
Took a while but Indy is in the house. Now to make room for it.

Gotta replace a burnt connector so that the backbox GI works and it could use new decals but it plays nice and has pretty nice PF. Overall pretty happy.

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I tried everything. Guys, some things work for some people, some for others. Take the plate out. I don't think it ever fails.

Korn, it doesn't matter which friends light in what order. I am reconsidering one thing I said tho. I got the loop jackpot twice today. I now don't think u can increase it before collecting it once the ramp is lit for loop jackpot. Tho I thought so. Maybe needs some glass off research! One of mine was 40 million and one was 100 million. It might be the total value of the loops u made before finishing the friends?

Cool! Thanks a lot!

Has anyone added the pinsound board to there Indy yet? Reviews, comments, suggestions.
Thanks...
T minus 8 days till my grail gets here. Anxious to officially join the club Next Week. Colordmd here and waiting.
It was my overpriced Christmas gift to myself!

Pinsound makes a great game perfect. I can't imagine playing it without one now.

BTW - you could always brave the wilds of Adventureland to get your IJ fix until then.

What does the pinsound board add to the game? Sounds like something I might want to try if its that good. Thanks!

Right up the street from me and I work there sometimes. I worked on the opening of Indy way back when. The ride still holds up. Why in those days I didn't think to get some props that were extra's?

Allows you to replace the audio with CD quality (or better if you source from lossless) using the original John Williams soundtrack and audio and sound effects from the film in stereo sound using upgraded amplifiers.

For games that support it, it's better than ColorDMD as the audio is always present while playing.

Of my games, I can't imagine playing IJ, SWDE, TZ, or Shadow without them now.

The ride is still one of Disney's crowing jewels as Tony Baxter is a genius at his craft.

The gift shop right across of the entrance has a custom Indy Pin Adventure. While it's not in the greatest of shape, it's always worth a play or two when it's out on display. It frequently goes backhouse; but, as of early September - it was out and playable.

Pinsound is awesome. I did my IJ and upgraded the speakers. Very easy job! You can go with a set or just add your own. I only did the woofer. It really makes a huge different.

Short video of an awesone mix!!! The mix is not mine.

Wow! What a difference! Thanks!!!

I put a Visaton subwoofer in the cabinet. Makes a huge difference. Specs are Visaton VISATON W 200/8 Ω 50 W 8 Ω
I think you can buy something similar in the US.

Put the stereo kit from pinsound on there and you are ready to go.

Thanks!

I am kind of a newbie to pinball, so I might now have this right, but i did install the ColorDMD display on my IJ about 6 months ago. My original Amber DMD went out on my FS machine. I tried to buy a decent used one for awhie, and then decided to buy a ColorDMD ,which I installed in my IJ, and moved the IJ Amber DMD to FS.

It is really a great upgrade, with all the video modes and such.

edit to add, OK, so I am really a rookie, I have the LCD version, was not aware of LED coming out when I bought it. Lots of discussion in this thread on pros and cons of each: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led/page/3

The LCD panel is bigger by far than the DMD and so I am a little hesitant to move it between machines.... from what I understand the LED version is exact form factor of original DMD's... that would be a plus for me... maybe not others...

wanted to give a shoutout to @indypinhead. I bought his full lit drop target kit for my indy and they look great. One thing i also noticed is airballs of the drop targets have lessened tramendously. Not sure if its do to the harder plastic so they bend less thus not flinging the ball back as much or if its just cause they are new and not broken in, but i was getting a ton of airballs off that front set of drops.

Where can I find this kit?

I want these too!
Just PM indypinhead?

I was just searching, he doesn't have any in marketplace.

yeah send him a pm, here is a link where he original showed them off.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-lit-roll-over-drop-target/page/3

about halfway down the page. He is a great guy too i talked to him on the phone for about 30 min one day.

No problem and appreciate your input to help. Correct, the LED form factor is nice as it's the same size as regular DMD. There is a different look between them and I put some input on that thread too. I think I'm going to pull the trigger and get an LED one to put in and transfer my year old LCD over to Metallica.

I took some slow-mo video of the drop targets to see how they were occurring, but already pretty much knew the answer before as you had stated. The drop targets are bending back upon impact more than they really should and creating a slingshot/catapult effect for the ball once they rebound. Check out the video on youtube. Sorry for the poor lighting as the slo-mo on the phone greatly reduces the exposure aperture or something along those lines. Also planning to replace target stickers soon... but now that there is positive feedback about the lighted polyacrylic drop targets, I might have to look into a full scale replacement.

Also... I cut a small lexan shield to put over the drop target bank and it has eliminated airballs completely for me so far, though I've only had it installed for a few days. Not too unsightly, but the thicker replacement drop targets still might be nicer (albeit much more expensive).

I have these available....just send me a PM

Tim

My indy is offically out on location so that will be the best test as far as how the drops hold up, however i see no reason to doubt them and i feel they are such a huge improvement over the originals.

I just sent a PM

Can you take a pic of your shield?

I would like to round the corners and shape it up more eventually, but just threw something in there at first to see if the concept works. And at a cost of less than $1 (8x10 lexan at $3.95) it is a cheap way to experiment.

I also imagime if I could polish the edges of the final product it would be less visible than it already is (which is barely). All in all, I think I would prefer drop targets that don't bend as much. But need to get my head around the huge price difference in that solution versus mine. Of course adding led lights to be drop targets is also part of the cost and an excellent mod in my opinion.

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Thanks for posting. I'm buying the led drops. I'll let you know how they work. I'm mainly buying them cause they look cool and I have an addiction to mods.

And restoration continues.....

New Jet sleeves and top plastic, GI new molex connector with trifurcon, Right airplane small crack repair. Still need the cabinet decals and some touchups, great pin!!

Gustavo

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You won't be disappointed they are really cool. I have natural white for the color of mine, next led order I am going to get rgb slow fade LED's and see how they look

Are you guys replacing just the single drop target or the 3-bank too?

All four.

Pinzap, I copied your mod and it works perfectly. Not one airball. Amazing the difference it makes. I might have these professionally cut and I wonder if there would be a market for around $12 shipped? The edges would all be rounded, etc. Wouldn't be as blocky as mine. I would remove as much extra material as possible. Added pics of my other mods. Clear post with mainly trans rubbers. Yellow and orange pops, those were a pain to install, gold flipper bats.

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I'd take one

Glad it worked for you. I have already been in discussion with someone that has contacts at a company with laser cutting abilities to see if we can get these professionally laser cut and what he cost would be. I would not want to make any money (because lord knows it would be peanuts) but would definitely like to provide it as a service to other IJ owners. I guess it was dumb of me to post it before we finished the design process, but I'm naive that way.

I would ask that you not offer these for sale since it was my mod originally (at least as far as I can tell). Ok, there's no rocket science behind the idea and my thought was that anyone could make it for themselves (thus, no profit to be made). But I would still like to see the design process through myself as a service I was hoping to offer for those that don't have the ability to cut and shape themselves.

What a great idea! I could definitely use one. Please let us know when they are officially produced.

Not a problem, like you said, it probably it would be for peanuts and I most likely have better things to do with my time. My suggestion is in your design you round the corners and maybe cut in on the other side of the hole entrance so it looks more like a backwards L. Might be more visually appealing as opposed to one solid square of plastic. I'm going to tweak mine after I get my new drop targets. I'll post a picture. I'm just happy I have no more airballs. It was a great idea. Simple but yet perfect.