The one I bought was from an older Hasbro set, see below. There is also a more recent cake topper set that includes an ark, and that one includes the wood rods to carry it. See pics.

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Hello, i have a "strange " request! I have a IJ with a color led dmd, and i wanted to swap just one image in the game, to another.
Basically i would loved to change the portrait of Salah when he appears with "indy" multiplier for another image that i already have.
Does anyone does that? i would pay for the service of course.
Thanks

Eternal Life! I finally reached the wizard mode. Perfect level of difficulty for me. Start all 12 modes, no easy task with that tricky mode start scoop. I nearly finished the wizard mode, only one or two switches on the upper pf left to hit. I just missed out on that huge jackpot. Great video modes, pretty balanced scoring. And like Fish Tales, another Mark Ritchie pin, this game really punishes missed shots. I love these 90’s pins with wizard modes that feel reachable with a good game, much like TZ’s Lost in the Zone. Both great games.

Is anyone making the open source Ricochet - Lao’s Antidote these days?

I just did the mode hole fix I found in another thread. Now it works nearly 100% of the time. You pull the diverter out and put a bit of deadening foam along the left and back side. Works like a charm.

I found the foam on eBay that someone recommended and it functions perfectly. I have way more than I need if anyone wants some.

Call it "cheating" if you must hate on the modification, but it makes the game a lot more fun. Mode hole kickouts are a pain in the ass.

Good idea! Mine has a cushion at the back of the scoop, and the bottom of the scoop was lowered, which also helps. I’m pretty good at left-handed backhand shots into the scoop. My right flipper will ricochet out sometimes. I’ll try adding a thin cushion on the left side too. The POA ramp is the hardest shot for me. Not sure why, it’s become a mental block or something!

Right ramp is easy as when it's not lit, right left combo's are easy. Stick a jackpot on it and it's the hardest shot in the game.

dunno for me the jackpot shot is way easy than the left ramp, for me the left ramp is the hardest shoot.

This 100%. Search the thread as this has been discussed thoroughly. The antidote is awesome but I found the complete removal and foam to be more effective. People complain they miss the “thunk” when you hit the shot, but it found the antidote sound unsatisfying too.

Where’s beelzeboob for this discussion? He’s the main proponent and not doing his job well! Too busy giving upvotes I suppose…

For me, the mode starting makes up for the lack of "thunk!" - I played a few games last night and went 100% on the mode hole shots.

Here is the foam I found for $9 on eBay that was recommended in that other thread about the mode hole fix (and still have lots left over if someone can't find any): MD Sponge Window Seal #06635 Large WIDE 3/8H" x 3/4"W

Try it if you're not sure -- it's totally reversible in a few minutes' time. Nothing else I've found works this effectively.

Thanks! Going to give this a try

To make it easier to find, Post #57 on this thread has the best photos of how to pull the diverter and place the foam. I did exactly what Hemispheres shows in the photos and it worked amazing!

I have the carbon fiber Cliffy over the mode hole, which is very sticky, so I don't ever have the screws attached. That might help a bit, too.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wms-indiana-jones-mode-start-hole-adjustment/page/2

Just 1.2 billion, but it was the first time I cracked a billion. I almost finished the wizard mode, which would have put me over 2 billion, which seems like a pretty high score based on posted high scores.

I also have the Cliffy protector, but the old steel one, not carbon fiber. I actually did end up doing what I was outlining in this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5612727

Which is to move the location of the mounting screws for the protector off to the side. Yes, it required me to drill two new holes into the topside of my playfield (no need for all three), but it is in an invisible location, well hidden underneath the left ramp. Gives the best of all worlds - the functioning mode hole with no deflector plate, the Cliffy for additional protection, and no screws in the way to damage the balls.

That's clever to rotate the screws to 3 o'clock position. I'd feel much better about taking a drill to a non-playing surface like that. Kudos!

Looking for a insert decal maybe someone bought a set and didn't use this one particular one.
It the super jackpot decal. PLEASElmk if you have would be have to buy from you
Thanks Mike

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does anyone have a nice pdf of this tech chart?

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http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_Indiana_Jones_Tech_Chart.pdf

Thanks, Peter!

I installed your drop target airball stopper - it's awesome!!

Thank you!

What’s the best Pinsound mix that also has shaker events programmed in? The Endprodukt mix is a little too violent on the shaker..or maybe I need to tinker with the crossover a little bit?

[Edited. I don't think I understood your inquiry so my offering was non-responsive.]

I added a Polk audio powered subwoofer under my Indy, and it’s just awesome. That’s the final piece it needed. It added so much bass and depth. The game rumbles now!

Is that pretty straight forward to add to the machine?

Do you just wire it up in place of the one on the bottom of the cabinet?

Usually you can solder or alligator clip it to the cabinet speaker keeping the cab speaker wired. That’s how I run my WPC machines.

Yep, like this. I just ran speaker wire up through the hole in the bottom/rear of the cabinet and used alligator clips to attach to the poles on the cabinet woofer. The other end connects to the Polk sub. Very easy.

I used a pinnovators $35 jumper that goes into the sound board then you run a wire to you sub input. Super easy and sounds good.

Has anyone tried one of these yet on their IJ? Stand alone shaker. I believe it plugs into the cpu board?

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I just ordered one. I’ll let you know. It’s not here yet.

Nice. And it still allows sound to the other speakers, right? I’m assuming it does, or you’d only have sound coming from your external sub, and that might lack all the mid and high range sound. I should have bought more Polk subs when they were $100.

I’m not a huge topper person, but these little guys make a nice, cheap, understated topper!

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Yes it does. No kidding $100 was a great deal!

I was playing the other night and my POA slid forward and got hung up on the ramp. I was confused at first until I realized the set screw in the back let loose and allowed this to happen. I usually get out my level and try to get it as level as possible. This time I just eyeballed it and tighten. The POA has never worked better lol. Just dumb luck works better than trying to be precise. Don’t you hate it when the ball rides either side and goes right into the pit hole on top. Now I can have the path bank to either side and it won’t do that. Just hope that screw doesn’t come loose again! I should loctite it!

Mine tilts slightly better to the left than the right. If I try to go right for the drop-in, it goes into the top pit about 50% of the time. If you go left, it’s safe, although occasionally it rolls past the POA and down the return lane. Is that all you need to adjust, a single set screw?

Was it the tiny screw closest to the POA? Or the one closer to the backboard than that screw? (When I remove the POA, I always use the tiny one closest to the POA)

It was this set screw. Hopefully it never moves again! The POA is working perfectly now.

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Similar issues here as well. All my remaining issues on my Indy are with that darn POA. Ball half the time doesn't drop into it when the post releases. Full tilt left or right and the ball travels so fast it rebounds off the walls into the pit. When moving left the motor stutters, I think that's an opto issue. Lot of things going on up there and I'm too burned out to deal with it right now. I got some Cliffy stuff on order that will require it's removal so I'll look at it then.

been through all of that! it was crazy how dumb luck with the set screw and now it doesnt fly down the pit right away. The not coming out of the ramp, I believe this is a pitch issue. Slightly pitch your machine up and see if that helps. i think that is how I fixed mine. never moving my machine again lol

Yes when u get it just so leave it alone lol

My shooter lane switch stopped working properly so I replaced it. I took this pic so I’d remember how it went back together. I noticed the M.G. Stamp; anyone have a clue on to what that might mean?

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Just finished redoing the vinyls and forgot to take a pic of this area. I know the bolt should be coming in from the outside cabinet side but I can’t figure out how all the stuff goes back together on the bolt. If someone could take a pic of this area of their machine in this area I would greatly appreciate it!

Also for some reason left flipper not working. Does that have to do with not putting this last area back together properly. So close to being done with this project and just want to finish up.

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I know off hand the black bolt goes from the outside of cab inside then that odd peace is next that fits the arm then the washer and a nut and I don't think the flipper is because of that area

Thanks! I got that put back together properly now. Left flipper still doesn’t work but when I do a flipper coil test it does work. All I did was remove the flipper button. I don’t think I did anything else there. I pulled the connector and pushed it back in and that didn’t help either. It was working fine before……

Ya just check they are in good and the wires are in there also it's odd it was working and now it's not only thing I can think of

Hello! I am having a weird issue with the drop bank target. On first ball, and subsequently every time the drop target resets, I am getting four to five extra pops from the coil. It lifts the drop targets into position, then pops them a few more times. They don’t drop back down though and the game plays normally until all three need to come back up. Then I get the several pops.

I took it apart, everything seems to be
Okay. I cleaned the optos with alcohol on a swab and there was nothing on it. Bad opto board? Or is this a driver board issue?

I do get the Err Drop Bnk Bad Switch/Coil on the test. When I do the coil test it does not repeat itself, just acts normally.

Thanks for any advice!

I had the same thing with my too it's not the boards it was a while ago but I was playing around with the signal drop target I don't remember what it was but maybe the switch just had too be right not sure but I know I was playing with that and over time it worked

I’m guessing a switch. That’s what my shooter lane Solenoid would do when my shooter lane switch was sticking. It would fire the ball and then the coil would fire 3-4 more times.