I bought one for my Fish Tales and I feel it’s a pretty good approximation. If they make them for Indy, you could try that. I bought it to install a speaker box light kit. Classic Arcades was the seller. Not sure if that’s the one people don’t like or not. I feel the FT version is pretty good.

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I was specifically talking about the grills in front of the speakers. I have this panel reproduction, it's fine. The print quality is not as sharp and it has a lite blue tint across it, mostly noticeable on the highlights. It would serve fine as a replacement for a completely broken one, my original just has some lite scratches so for now I'm going to try to buff them out.

Maybe I'll have another go at taking them off. I could have sworn I saw some small nails that have them tacked in place but maybe they are just held with adhesive.

I might also get up the courage to do the cut outs on the original wood. How did you go about making those cuts? I have a couple different Dremel tools that might work but I'm not that experienced with them.

I did use a pair of pliers to remove the nails holding the speaker grille in place. It was stubborn, but I was able to get it off safely. New nails to tack it back in place.

As for the jackpot light holes, the more accurate you can adhere to the icon shapes the better to avoid light spillage. The "black" parts of the image do not block light very well, and you can see the shape of the hole behind.

I ended up using a coping saw to do the initial cut, and smoothed things out with a Dremel.

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One more thing you might consider...

I put a barrier of foam tape between each hole to prevent light from one treasure spilling over to the one beside it.

I made a stencil file for them that can be cut out with a cricut. Fair warning that they're a huge pain in the ass to apply and then remove after painting because they have so many small "floating" bits. PM me if you want the file.

Also I could not find the grill material with the original hole pattern after much searching; the one I finally ended up using is fairly close.

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Those turned out really nice. I can see how that all can be tedious to work with. I kind of wondered if there would a local business I could hand them the grills and the stencil file and they could silk screen print it onto them. I'll probably PM you for the file if only for a back up incase I go this route.

Mike_M

What paint and colors did you use to spray those?

SiN13 - I'm guessing the originals were silkscreened. There are places online that will make custom silkscreens for a decent price; would definitely be the way to go if you needed more than 1 set.

Chosen_S I used Rustoleum rattle cans- Summer Squash for the base and Colonial Red for the stencil. Both satin finishes.

Thank you Mike

Where did you source this at? I had this on my shopping list anyway if I'm going to move the DMD to a new panel. I thought maybe beer seal would work but that stuff doesn't seem thick enough or dense enough. I'm guessing a hardware store might have it in the weather stripping section?

I bought some weather stripping rolls off of Amazon. Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B082PMZY3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
It's thin, but dense. Maybe too dense to have the sort of give you might want behind the DMD, but you can get spongier weather stripping at almost any hardware store if you'd prefer.

And then I doubled or tripled it up to give it some extra height.
Every Kind of Classic Car

i don’t have the machine anymore, but I have this target. So this is for sale.
What’s it called (or what’s the number)
I know it’s an odd ball part.

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It’s the idol lock gate.

Yes that’s it lol

Is that yellow? Or orange?

DM sent

I just replaced my speaker panel with a jackpot light panel. I was able to easily remove the speaker panel screens as they are only held in place with 4 small brads. Just a little pressure from below and the heads pulled up and lifted out easily. Then nailed them back throught he same screen hole into the new speaker panel.

It should be Yellow

I came to this thread to see if anybody posted about the 2023 Oscars/Academy Awards, especially since "You Cheat Dr. Jones" is in the subject line. I thought it was great that Harrison Ford presented the award for best picture, and then Ke Huy Quan was on stage hugging Ford, and they cut away to Spielberg (whose film The Fabelmans was also a nominee) smiling and clapping.

Does anyone know what's up with this weird IJ mini PF I have? The hole pattern for the ball guides is different and the art is different to accommodate. I know prototype games had stainless guides, but from pictures I've seen, they used the same hole pattern as the plastic guides.

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Comparing the patterns:
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Check here, with Mirco's response (great restoration thread by the way):

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-/page/9#post-5540281

Yeah we have 2/5 academy award winners on the playfield (besides Steven Spielberg & John Williams). Come on Harrison!

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Ah I see, so it is simply the "red plastic" hole pattern on the left (the one I have in hand) and the prototype stainless pattern on the right. We got confused here because the prototype pf is shown on Mirco's site, and assumed that was the de facto pattern. This was also the new Mirco playfield HEP used in his last IJ series.

Good thread. That thread has the only picture I have seen of a stainless steel POA guide disassembled. Thanks Davi!

I see Indy had a baby lol

I'd like to hear about airballs on IJ: haven't run into any myself . . . .

It's quite common for Indy games to get airballs off the 3 drop target, as well as sometimes off the single drop target. In fact WMS put the shield on the lower left of the PF to catch airballs that would otherwise go into the out lane and they also implemented ball saves to help address the problem.

The idea behind the airball protectors is to extend a plastic out over the top of the drop targets to deflect any airballs back down on to the PF

The 3 bank plastic that I believe I purchased from Davi is thicker and a bit longer. Works fantastic, highly recommended!

Newer replacement drop targets make air balls even worse. The newer targets are made with softer more flexible ABS… consequently they add a bit of upward sling to the ball. The OEM targets are more rigid… which keeps the rebounds tighter to the playfield.

The correct flipper coils also make a difference. My game had the weaker coils when I got it, however once I put the correct coils in the game … airballs were much more prevalent.

Still looking to join the club. Looking for a motivated seller . As rare as finding the lost ark

I've got the correct coils in my IJ (it's an older coil, but it checks out), and while on rare occasions I've had a ball jump to the outlane, I've never had a ball hit the glass or the biplane. It's never really been a major cause for concern on my machine, anyway.

I've heard that with a protector it helps to have extra protection on the playfield by the ENT lights, because after hitting the protector it can ricochet back down and dent the playfield.

I've also tried an airball protector in the past, but took it out because I didn't like how it partially obscured the drop targets.

By shield Do u mean the curved “wall” near the wire form?

Last year I prototyped some air ball reducing targets… they worked pretty well.

I reinforced them with titanium plates.
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I ended up taking out the blue flipper coils and putting orange in. Not sure if I had bad drop targets in but they kept snapping with the blue coils?

Yes, wasn’t sure how to refer to it

Ok, so...is there a trick to the Raven video mode? Inevitably once I scroll one direction, one bad guy shows up at the other far end of the screen, but other shooters will show up at the opposite direction. Seems impossible to get them all...unless there is a particular strategy?

Looks like the one on the left side in the pic is from Mirco the art is way way off

A strategy that works for me is to try and stay confined to one section of the screen. I think they spawn based on proximity to where you're aiming, so everytime you take a shot, quickly move back in the direction you came from. Try to stay as tight as you can to the same section.

Maybe it's in my head, but this strategy is always a guaranteed extra ball for me, and 8/10 times to get the medallion.

Bonus tip: For find the Grail, maybe you got distracted or weren't paying attention to a couple of swaps? No problem! The real Grail is the only one that makes a noise when it moves. Easy to pick back up if you lose it! I suggest adjusting the mode to begin at level 2, since it's not a challenge at level 1.

Correct, I usually veer off right and the nazis can only shoot you when they pop up in the visible screen. So I quick left to cover the ones visible and hopefully none pop up further left before I can slide back right. So confining them like Aaron’s strategy is the way

Airball mods just posted. 20 sets available.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/153818

The original is "orangish".

I've had to replace worn out decals on them, but the 3-bank drops and back-of-lane single target on mine must be the originals, which may account for the lack of airballs.

I've been wondering about that very thing myself for a long time. I did a couple times get a so-very-brief glimpse of the EB that I presume is the top goal on Raven Bar, but never came close to scoring it. There must be some trick to this, which hopefully turns up in this thread. Who's the expert who makes all those learned 'How Best To Play ____' videos, either for YT or PAPA ? (Bowen, I think.) Kept hoping he might have addressed this.

After the Extra Ball is the Medallion! That’s the end of the mode.

The best I've managed on that mode is about 14 Mil. points. "Medallion Not Collected" goes without saying.
On the Mine Cart, my best has been just slightly past the halfway point. (What happens if you go the distance ?)
Have nailed the guy with the big swinging sword, and reached the Idol swap.

If all or most of these modes have harder settings possible, I'm not sure I want to know.

It's possible that your game is configured with harder settings - this can be done at a game or individual mode level. Also if you have your game configured for 5 ball that'll set the game to "hard" mode

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The sword guy is just a mode shot, if you run out of time pull the trigger for 2MIL
Idol swap just hit the targets, don’t need more than 1 each round. I try and hit the targets on the right for the last shot because then the hole is open.

Practice baby!

I've got down to 4 tunnels remaining multiple times. I'm usually holding down the correct flipper button as it crashes thorough, it must only allow one or two frames on screen before deciding if you are crashing or not. I don't honestly think it is possible to beat without memorizing a pattern.

There may be patterns, but in 20 years of playing I've never noticed them. My usual strategy is to hold down right flipper as my default direction, only letting go if necessary - for some reason I find this easier to react to than by simply going straight.

Alternately, you could hold both flipper buttons when starting a new game, crash through the fourth barrier on the right, and get the "Frog Bonus" instead of escaping the tunnels. That one is much easier to manage