Pleasant Plains, IL
Found it - Adjustment A.1 #33.
(Topic ID: 68869)
Linked Games
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
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Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:The first time I heard fish of tales I was like, wtf lol
Have you guys ever held both flippers then hit start. Go to mine cart, and crash through the 4th right closed gate? It is so awesome!!!
Rad! Just did it.
Quoted from Billc479:Found it - Adjustment A.1 #33.
Thank you
Quoted from DumbAss:A lot of these widebody games were crammed full of features. So many features that there's an 8-Driver Auxiliary board that implements an additional 8x controlled solenoid (or flasher) drives on top of the available 28x that are standard (16x inductive diode protected, 4x resistive not diode protected and 8x general purpose selectively diode protected). This 8-Driver board can also implement another whole column of switches (actually 2 whole columns but only one was actually used). However, it doesn't implement more lamp columns.
There are techniques that the game designers (implementation engineers actually) can do to get some extra switches or lamps without the 8-Driver board. If there is a fliptronic board and not all 4 flippers are being used, those unused flipper drive transistors and playfield/cabinet opto switches can be re-purposed for other things. The drive transistors can drive additional solenoids and the opto switches can be used for other playfield purposes. You will find that this is true for this game (the E-N-T drop targets are re-purposed flipper switches and the POA diverter/post are re-purposed flipper solenoids).
The one thing that is NOT easy to do is get more available lamps. Not easy but not impossible.
One trick Williams did was to use the GI circuits. The GI circuits have limited software control. They can be dimmed but are dimmed as a group. In WPC-89, there are five strings that can be individually controlled. These are BRN/WHT-BRN, ORG/WHT-ORG, YEL/WHT-YEL, GRN/WHT-GRN and VIO/WHT-VIO. The VIO/WHT-VIO (hereafter known as VIO) is also dedicated to the cabinet (coin door). You will see that this string originates at J119. The coin door is ALWAYS the VIO string.
If you take a closer look at your playfield wiring, you will see the answer to your question.
[quoted image]
It is GI being used as software controlled lighting (as a group). The game is out of software controlled lamps in the lamp matrix. The VIO string is being used as a feature. The side-effect is that when the feature is OFF (i.e. you are playing one of the modes) then the coin door lamps are OFF. I assume Williams did this because the "LITES HAND OF FATE" is usually on and only off when playing a mode. It was probably hoped that the player would not notice the coin door lamps going out because they would be too busy playing the game.
For those interested:The Terminator 2 "CPU" in the center of that playfield is also GI under mode control.
The Twilight Zone "clock" in the translight is also GI under mode control.
Wow, very informative. Thank you for taking the time.
Yeah, I bookmarked that post! excellent info
Quoted from SFBP36:Wow, very informative. Thank you for taking the time.
Quoted from dzmechanical:5-Ribbon set from marco for Indiana Jones
RC1382 $ 44.99
Thanx !
Hi all,
I was wondering if someone could help me.
I purchased tilt topper, a while back. Can someone tell me which voltage or voltages it take. It would be installed in a Williams, and I believe has a power tap with it.
Thanks
Quoted from kba78:Hi all,
I was wondering if someone could help me.
I purchased tilt topper, a while back. Can someone tell me which voltage or voltages it take. It would be installed in a Williams, and I believe has a power tap with it.
Thanks
Try hitting up Habeboo for info.
There is also a thread here that might have some more information on the installation.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-indiana-jones-pinball-topper-by-tilttopper
Would love to see it in action once you have it installed.
Been a while since Ive posted on thread so not sure what has changed in a few years....If anyone can post a reply that would be great. Looking at an indy with rough faded cab. Is anyone make new cabs with art applied? Is POA motor and opto board still avail? Is there still a new mod shot bracket which helps with kick outs? Thx in advance
Quoted from billsfanmd:Been a while since Ive posted on thread so not sure what has changed in a few years....If anyone can post a reply that would be great. Looking at an indy with rough faded cab. Is anyone make new cabs with art applied? Is POA motor and opto board still avail? Is there still a new mod shot bracket which helps with kick outs? Thx in advance
I did a re-decal on my IJ a couple of years ago. It was a project. I got my decals from ministry I believe? I’ve heard radcals are way easier to install. I might have a poa board and motor? The boards are for sale still, the motor check at Marco. As far as the trough or kick outs I’ve never had issues.
Collingwood, ON
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:I did a re-decal on my IJ a couple of years ago. It was a project. I got my decals from ministry I believe? I’ve heard radcals are way easier to install. I might have a poa board and motor? The boards are for sale still the motor check at Marco. As far as the trough or kick outs I’ve never had issues.
Yes Marco has the motor and most everything that's where I got my motor
Quoted from billsfanmd:Is there still a new mod shot bracket which helps with kick outs? Thx in advance
Cliffy at passion for pinball has a few solutions you may be interested in
I will be joining this club soon, I’m looking for parts, so any help will be most appreciated. This machine is in parts and missing some things…. Some things I will have to make I’m sure
Rear bridge ramp
Left ball ramp
Left ball catch that the upper playfield feeds to that connects to the wire form
The main metal ramp
The entire subway
Idol Rotor Lock motor unit part A-16228 (I have the motor, just not the mech
Ball plate assembly A-16224
Path of adventure bracket and optos #01-11176 (I have the motor)
Metal ramp after the idol lock
Ball gate assembly at the right inlane
And pretty much every rollover switch with bracket in the whole game
Thank you for reading this garbage post
Yeah, I know it’s a lot
Helsinki
Would the PinSound board and PinSound shaker work with EndProdukt's sound track with a WMS IJ? There are the files for EndProdukt's soundtrack version available at the PS community, but does it have the shaker codes also (which I guess are needed for the PinSound shaker to work)?
Thanks for any info!
Quoted from Nepi23:Would the PinSound board and PinSound shaker work with EndProdukt's sound track with a WMS IJ? There are the files for EndProdukt's soundtrack version available at the PS community, but does it have the shaker codes also (which I guess are needed for the PinSound shaker to work)?
Thanks for any info!
The shaker code is separate by game and loaded into the smaller shaker controller board (you choose the game at checkout). I have the shaker on my LOTR and it functions the same regardless of the sound track I choose as far as I can tell. I have the board and shaker for my IJ but haven't gotten far enough along to install it yet.
JarbyjibboQuoted from Chosen_S:Cliffy at passion for pinball has a few solutions you may be interested in
I had some interest re possible Cliffy (and possibly Mantis also) protection for the hole around and behind the bank of idols drops, but was having difficulty in pinpointing the exact part #s for this at their respective sites. It seemed like they were geared to selling fuller *sets* of parts, most of which looked unnecessary or irrelevant for my case.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Cliffy at passion for pinball has a few solutions you may be interested in
FYI, I talked with Cliff on Monday and he let me know he is a bit backed up right now, still processing orders from October, so it may be a bit of a wait if you go directly through him.
Quoted from Davi:If everything goes well, the new airball protector batch will be ready in February.
This version:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5621982
Hey Davi any update on when these might become available? Thanks again for making these, much appreciated.
Question about the left-side ball gate (the one next to the "I" at the top). I did a recent full playfield teardown and rebuild, and post rebuild the gate is not "springy" when struck with the ball post launch.
I seem to recall (and youtube play videos seem to verify) that after launching, the ball hits this gate and bounces back, giving a random chance of hitting any of the top lanes. On mine, it almost always hits the gate and then goes into the "I" (occasionally getting enough bounce to get to the "N").
The gate mechanism seems to be working correctly (and importantly, it correctly opens when required in both play and in the single switch test for that gate).
I can't seem to see how it's misconfigured, so I thought I'd ask if there's something obvious I'm missing, or if I've misremembered how responsive the gate is to the pinball post-launch.
Melbourne
Quoted from darkpawns:Question about the left-side ball gate (the one next to the "I" at the top). I did a recent full playfield teardown and rebuild, and post rebuild the gate is not "springy" when struck with the ball post launch.
I seem to recall (and youtube play videos seem to verify) that after launching, the ball hits this gate and bounces back, giving a random chance of hitting any of the top lanes. On mine, it almost always hits the gate and then goes into the "I" (occasionally getting enough bounce to get to the "N").
The gate mechanism seems to be working correctly (and importantly, it correctly opens when required in both play and in the single switch test for that gate).
I can't seem to see how it's misconfigured, so I thought I'd ask if there's something obvious I'm missing, or if I've misremembered how responsive the gate is to the pinball post-launch.
Post a pic of how your’s is sitting so that we can compare - might be able to spot something wrong for you
Quoted from Manny65:Post a pic of how your’s is sitting so that we can compare - might be able to spot something wrong for you
Went to get a quick video and was reminded of an important lesson - what you think is happening is not necessarily happening! It looks like the actual issue is that the ball doesn't hit the gate at all, but the metal barrier just south of it.
I've rechecked the level of the playfield (looks good), so at a loss as to what could be causing the ball to lose its arc as it makes its way up to this area. I removed any interference from the right gate as a potential cause. Curious to hear others' thoughts.
IJPA_upper_left_issue (resized).pngThat's odd its seems too me that the ball doesn't have the push too get too that area at all just maybe it's the coil that shoots the ball not sure
Quoted from Chosen_S:Looking at purchasing the radcals from mirco, any issues with these?
Just installed mine on tz and wh2o and they were great to work with (ok a more talented person than I did most of the work), but it’s very forgiving and the result is great. Hoping to do my ij next. Took about two hours. Note that you do not need to remove the side rails…
3242B1A7-8268-417C-8DC9-6379830D48C6 (resized).jpeg535C6388-4E77-4782-B42C-42768172DB90 (resized).jpegB182757A-6FA2-408A-87A4-A78A6E2605E9 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from PinballGalore:Just installed mine on tz and wh2o and they were great to work with (ok a more talented person than I did most of the work), but it’s very forgiving and the result is great. Hoping to do my ij next. Took about two hours. Note that you do not need to remove the side rails…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice! Thank you
Are all radcals of this nature made from the same manufacturer? I’m curious of the quality of the print as well
Quoted from Chosen_S:Nice! Thank you
Are all radcals of this nature made from the same manufacturer? I’m curious of the quality of the print as well
Yes Mirco makes them.
Quoted from PinballGalore:Just installed mine on tz and wh2o and they were great to work with (ok a more talented person than I did most of the work), but it’s very forgiving and the result is great. Hoping to do my ij next. Took about two hours. Note that you do not need to remove the side rails…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Do these apply on top of the existing art then? Probably the worst cosmetic issue on my table is the cabinet art, overall slightly faded, but way worse on one side of the back box. I've avoided addressing it cause it seems like a nightmare to deal with, and being up against other machines I don't notice it that often. It would be nice to address at some point.
Quoted from PinballGalore:Just installed mine on tz and wh2o and they were great to work with (ok a more talented person than I did most of the work), but it’s very forgiving and the result is great. Hoping to do my ij next. Took about two hours. Note that you do not need to remove the side rails…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I’m trying to decide between the regular radcals for wh20 or the mirrors. Kind of like mirrors. Have regular in Indy bc they don’t make mirrors. Thoughts?
B44EDD3C-630D-40B8-BE16-10AA55493847 (resized).pngQuoted from SiN13:Do these apply on top of the existing art then? Probably the worst cosmetic issue on my table is the cabinet art, overall slightly faded, but way worse on one side of the back box. I've avoided addressing it cause it seems like a nightmare to deal with, and being up against other machines I don't notice it that often. It would be nice to address at some point.
Sure does. I also avoided… I had them lying around for about two years and then in one week, had them both done in 2 sessions. You do have to drill for all the bolts and flippers buttons, with the start and extra ball buttons having to precise and centered as those aren’t covered and by the flippers buttons and/or bolts.
Quoted from beltking:I’m trying to decide between the regular radcals for wh20 or the mirrors. Kind of like mirrors. Have regular in Indy bc they don’t make mirrors. Thoughts?
[quoted image]
When I got mine two years back I didn’t notice the mirrored option, may not have been available yet or maybe I just missed them. But yea I noticed they’re not available for IJ. I am eyeing the ones for CV though…
A4CD953F-CB59-477A-99D1-327D5D0A7BEF (resized).jpegAC0CEFCA-4962-453C-9869-04C60F50F19A (resized).jpegD7A25B08-980C-40C2-BD13-4752191B6F26 (resized).jpegI think I bought my IJ cabinet decals from Bay Area Amusements or Planetary Pinball several years ago. I had never installed them, but they got wet/damaged in storage. I’d like to replace them with the best available product. Are there any licensed cabinet decals available now or something equivalent to original? Thanks for any input!
Quoted from cburnett11:I think I bought my IJ cabinet decals from Bay Area Amusements or Planetary Pinball several years ago. I had never installed them, but they got wet/damaged in storage. I’d like to replace them with the best available product. Are there any licensed cabinet decals available now or something equivalent to original? Thanks for any input!
Mirco does for sure… I don’t know how good they are but they’re licensed.
https://mircoplayfields.com/en/p/indiana-jones-decals
Quoted from beltking:Mirco rad cals. Imo must sand wood down and do a black sraypaint in wood before applying. People have had issues with seeing old behind the new.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This 100%, don't go new over old on IJ. There are photos out there of why.
Budapest
Quoted from darkpawns:Went to get a quick video and was reminded of an important lesson - what you think is happening is not necessarily happening! It looks like the actual issue is that the ball doesn't hit the gate at all, but the metal barrier just south of it.
I've rechecked the level of the playfield (looks good), so at a loss as to what could be causing the ball to lose its arc as it makes its way up to this area. I removed any interference from the right gate as a potential cause. Curious to hear others' thoughts.[quoted image]
Check that there's no obstruction as the ball exits the shooter lane under the idol plastic - check that the orbit ball guide isn't sitting proud of the shooter lane exit and slowing the ball. If you can't find anything then as Williampinball posted, I'd start looking at the plunger - in particular check the plunger armature, spring and coil sleeve. Given the ball is still making it up to the rollover lanes, it's possible that all the parts will most likely look good so if nothing is obvious I'd drop in a new coil sleeve as a starter.
Let us know how you get on
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:This 100%, don't go new over old on IJ. There are photos out there of why.
I would think you can do body work over the old decals, then paint black. Sand smooth and apply radcals?
Quoted from Manny65:Check that there's no obstruction as the ball exits the shooter lane under the idol plastic - check that the orbit ball guide isn't sitting proud of the shooter lane exit and slowing the ball. If you can't find anything then as Williampinball posted, I'd start looking at the plunger - in particular check the plunger armature, spring and coil sleeve. Given the ball is still making it up to the rollover lanes, it's possible that all the parts will most likely look good so if nothing is obvious I'd drop in a new coil sleeve as a starter.
Let us know how you get on
Thank you both! Great tips. It ended up being the coil - measured resistance at about 3 where it should be 4.2. Swapped with the one from the knocker (both AE-23-800) and now there's enough velocity for some bouncy action above the top lanes.
Quoted from Norcalpin:I would think you can do body work over the old decals, then paint black. Sand smooth and apply radcals?
Sure absolutely that is an option but that wasn't exactly what was asked. If you're going to go through all that trouble though, you might as well just do it right. I just don't do body work to a sticker vs the base wood of the cabinet. If you want to do a quickie job then yea, you can paint the decals black. Obviously if you have some significant defects in the cabinet, it's going to take some additional effort.
Quoted from ulmpharmd:anyone looking for a heafty discount on a mirco glitter playfield package, pm me. Dont have time to restore IJ like I thought I would
Pm sent
Quoted from Chosen_S:can anyone tell me what recommended roms to use for MPU and sound?
L-7 & L-3 I believe
Matt’s basement arcade is where I’ve gotten roms before.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:L-7 & L-3 I believe
Matt’s basement arcade is where I’ve gotten roms before.
thank you, that helps
I am selling some reproduction IJ aprons at a steep discount due to minor finishing imperfections if anyone is interested:
I have a major malfunction after replacing dead battery's on my Indy. It was remote mounted with wooden blocks so no damage. It rebooted into a factory reset and now the center shoot solenoid lock pin won't stop firing like it's looking for a ball. A test shows mini playfield limit switch errors, Idol and drop target sw errors. The game has been playing perfectly and has a new playfield, rottendog and pinsound boards. This makes no sense at all.
update: I removed the battery's and let it do a reset again and it fixed it. So weird.
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