I reseated all related connectors, and checked that all backbox board mounting screws were tight. No change.
Wondering if the rottendog fliptronics board is bad.

Probably. Luckily had a friend I could try one before I bought it.

Ok, a couple more things I've tried.

-I swapped the two opto switches, and no change.

-I put the original fliptronics board back in, no change, still a mushy flipper. Game starts and plays fine as compared to the Rottendog, where the right flipper was flipping up and holding when the game starts. Went into test menu for flippers, right flip hold does not engage upward, regular flip works fine. Assuming this means the hold winding of the flipper coil is bad?

Why would the oem fliptronics and the Rottendog act differently though? Am I chasing two issues?

The hold coil is not designed to raise the flipper bat, but rather hold it up when the power coil disengages (either via s/w or EOS). While you will find some flippers will raise by themselves during a hold test, if it doesn't then simply raise it by hand and see if the hold coil will keep the flipper bat raised. The fact that your hold test doesn't raise the flipper is not actually a problem.

It sounds like the Rottendog board is faulty, possibly a shorted MOSFET such that the flipper coil is constantly powered - if this is the main flipper power coil it'll result in the coil overheating and melting the coil bobbin and sleeve.

Back to your original problem, can you explain what you mean by a mushy flipper? What is actually happening when you're playing?

As far as my issues, the right side feels less precise and slow to drop from hold position sometimes which makes it feel less responsive during game play as compared to the left. Hard to describe, but it just feels off. Both flippers were rebuilt by previous owner, and nothing looks different between the two, other that the left coil was replaced at one point in its life. Both mechs move smoothly and have the correct FL-11629 coils.

The flipper menu test raises the left flipper nice and smooth, and the right side does not move but you can see it trying to. I will try to manually lift right flipper while in hold test mode and report back this evening.

The slower speed at which the flipper drops could either a difference between the left & right flipper button opto switches as to when the switch detects you releasing the button, I think you mentioned that the opto boards are different brands so I'd suggest switching the left & right boards and see if the problem follows the board. The second thing is that the speed the flipper drops is entirely mechanical as it is pulled back by the spring, therefore either the spring doesn't have the same tension as the left spring or there is increased friction in the flipper mech (eg b/n the plunger and sleeve) causing it to drop slower.

Manny65

I have tried switching the 2 opto switches, with no change.

In flipper hold test mode, manually moving the right flipper up works, I think. It briefly holds up before cycling back down.

I will try to tension up the spring or get new springs to see if that helps to make it a bit snappier. This is probably as good as I can hope for.

With regard to the Rottendog fliptronics board, I did a bunch of comparator continuity/diode checks on the transistors to see if there were any anomalies. Couldn't find anything. Thought it would help my case in returning it if I could find a failed component.

Thanks for the assistance.

Looking for some advice on 2 issues I've seen with my path of adventure mini playfield after playing a couple games last night. I've seen some other support posts similar to these issues but never could find a clear solution.

Issue 1: Ball will go across the rope bridge, park itself against the post, the post will drop to release it into the mini playfield and about 50% of the time it will just roll on by the drop off and drain out to the left inlane.

Issue 2: When it does drop into the path of adventure and the first target is the first switch on the right, I'll tilt the mini playfield all to the right and when the ball drops down into the mini playfield it doesn't take the right path, it goes left and falls down the first pit.

Both these issues suggest to me that maybe the table is tilted to the left a little too much. I'll need to double check this but I recently just dialed in the table with a leveling app at the bottom of the playfield, 6.5 degree incline with left/right dead center.

Are there rope bridge or mini playfield adjustments I should be doing as well? The metal rope bridge doesn't seem to have a lot of wiggle room to be moved up or down. Another support thread suggested pressing down on it and bending it slightly which doesn't seem great to me.

As far as things brought up in other threads, my post isn't rubbing when it releases. The mini playfield motor set screw is on there tight and the playfield moves smoothly to both left and right extents.

I don't have an answer for your Issue 1 but here's my thoughts on your Issue 2. Based on my experience with my game, this is what I do when my ball is locked and just about to enter the path of adventure.
- If I want the ball to head down the left side of my poa, I'll slightly tilt the poa to the right (just before the ball drops into the poa) and then as the ball drops in and lands on the poa, I'll quickly tilt it all the way over to the left. The ball has to touch the poa, with the poa slightly to the right and just as it lands, I jam it over to the left. I've gotta be quick and my timing is important.
- If I want the ball to head down the right side of the poa, I do the opposite of above.

I don't really understand why I have to do this odd little dance to get the ball down one side or the other but it seems to work for me. Give it a whirl.

QSS

Issue 1 - one of these solutions will work:

First ensure the tab past the post is properly adjusted allowing the ball to drop and hit in the center of the mini PF directly behind the first rubber.

If the first option doesn't fix it, you will need to tilt the rope bridge forward slightly. You can use some washers on the top two bolts behind the tabs holding the bridge to the back there. This will most certainly fix your issue.

Issue 2 - your mini PF or your game is not level. Your mini-PF should be aligned that if you tilt right before the ball drops, it will drop and stay right and go all the way down the right side to the end unless adjusted back left, and vice versa.

Here is my positioning below, it is perfectly level. You want to ensure you have mounted the mini PF as far forward (close to the player) as possible for optimal functionality.
image0 (resized).jpeg

I have no experience with the Rottendog board although I do know they use MOSFETs not transistors. So not sure that you can compare the 2 boards at a component level (certainly not the MOSFETs).

Ok I'll have to give those a shot. I watched it tonight go through there a couple times and it seems to pass right by the opening and hit the bent corner of the left tab and then it's a 50/50 shot on which direction it will go. I also honestly wonder if my incline isn't steep enough cause even the travel of the ball down to the flippers feels a little slow to me at times.

On my machine, I needed to have the main playfield steeper than optimum for the mini. I made a shim to go under the front mount of the mini that makes it less steep. In addition to bending the tab as mentioned above, I used a small, clear, rubber cabinet pad on the tab to make the ball fall in the middle of the POA. I can now hit every switch on the POA, if I'm having a good day.

Ok after some leveling adjustments I think I've got the ball to release consistently into the mini playfield. I also found my mini playfield was centering slightly to the left so I got that leveled out.

Something I'm running into now though is if I drop and go right I hug the wall, hit the first switch and rebound directly into the first pit. I don't know if that is intended, if I shouldn't go fully right, but it seems like if I tilt all the way right the mini playfield is designed to allow the ball to hug the wall all the way down to the drain. I can see the leveling of the playfield may have some affect on this but even if I hand place the ball at the first switch the ball doesn't have a lot of momentum and it still tends to bang right into the railing of the first pit.

One thing I'll say, pre and post leveling of the mini playfield I still feel like when I tilt it all the way right it doesn't go as far right as it does left. I wonder if it could be an indication of a placement issue of the right extents opto switch on the opto board. When I look back there it is mounted on the board slightly crooked facing downward which I would think would result a premature detection of the metal arm on the shaft when going right.

Another thing I want to throw out there, I don't know if this is normal, while leveling the machine I was taking readings and I was getting different values as I worked my way up from the flippers to the 3 bank ENT drop target. I go from 6.5 at the flippers, to 6.0 at seize the stones, and then almost 5.5 at the 3 bank ENT drop target. Is there a specific place on the playfield I should be going by on the readings? Is this an indication my playfield might be slightly warped?

Based on your comments and lack of pictures, I’m going to quote my previous post. Ensure you have mounted your mini playfield as far forward as possible for optimal functionality. The ball should be hugging one side of your playfield if it is in the proper position.

I am thinking about using the Hot Toys IJ figurine with the idol as a topper for me game. Any suggestions on how to make the figurine and the cardboard background sturdy enough, so that they would work ok as a topper? Thanks for any info!

Link to the Hot Toys figurine with the idol and background: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o0uHOG8Rw4g/UGLVYiVaZDI/AAAAAAAAKXo/xVOEswdAuoE/s1600/Hot+toys+DX05+Indiana+Jones_3898.JPG

To close the loop on my issue, turns out the opto interrupters had a slight warp to them, and previous owner had filed away part of the plastic that passes thru the optos. I didn't notice this initially. Not sure why the error was different with the Rottendog in, but new interrupters fixed the issue and both the original fliptronics and the Rotty are fine too. Both interrupters that were in the game were filed, which explains why switching left to right changed nothing. Disappointingly, of the two replacement interrupters I purchased, one was badly warped and unusable. Very flimsy pieces, wish there was a more rigid option out there not prone to warp or twisting, say metal? I bought a couple of the spring steel backing plates just in case, but did not seem to be needed. Anyways, glad to have it fixed and on to the next issue. Thanks to all that helped.

Here's my next mini project. My IJ is a re-import, I wanted to clean up the coin door area, the wiring, etc and replace a bad coin switch. The game had some old school mechanical coin counter inside the cabinet that counted two different foreign coin types that I've since removed. It was connected to the coin switches and coin door interface board for power. My question is in regard to the diodes on the coin switches. Were the diodes added as part of the hacked in coin counter, and can these be removed because the diode function is within the interface board?

Thanks!

IMG_2659 (resized).jpg

IMG_2660 (resized).jpg

I guess the Rottendog fliptronics board is a little more sensitive and there was enough light leaking around the filed interrupter that the Rottendog could sense it and therefore always activated the flipper.

Correct there is not need for the second diode on the coin mech switch

No not needed there for sure

Manny65 and Williampinball - Thanks for the fast reply!

Np here’s my it’s got covers over them but no diodes there

1BFA172C-4EBB-4A33-82BE-E80A241A998A (resized).jpeg

hi all! I am a happy Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure owner of almost a year now. I installed the PinSound board/sub and it really is awesome but I was wondering if anyone has issues with the sound effects queuing up but the music keeps playing and then after a bit it will catch up? I would say at least once or twice during a play session this will happen. It is kind of annoying and takes away from the game when it happens.

I noticed classicarcades on Ebay, who I believe is an officially licensed partner with PPS and uses OEM information from Williams to make cabinent decals, has recently begun offering Indiana Jones cabinet decals. I wonder if that means they have rights to IJ?

I don’t know what others experience is with them but I recently got one of their speaker panels for Indy and I was kind of disappointed in the quality and haven’t put it on my machine. Image was not as sharp as the original, the city names across the top were blurry, and areas that were meant to have whiter highlights were tinted blue. I’ll probably end up trying to polish out the scratches on my original instead.

I also got a replacement playfield plastic from them and the quality was much nicer on it but I think it was NOS and not a reproduction. Though the holes on it didn’t line up and I had to bore them out to get it to fit.

The speaker panels might not be using OEM information. That's also why his insert decals look incorrect, because they're not sourced from OEM. He does however have OEM data for Williams/Bally cabinet decals such as the color codes to use and the vectoring when he prints them.

Check your log file and ensure your voltage is in the range for the soundboard (should be really close to 5.0v). If it's too low, recap your power driver board or get a Rottendog replacement. If your voltage is fine, make sure you have the most up to date files and reach out to the pinsound team, they are quite helpful if/when problems arise.

Have you tried a different/faster usb flash drive ?

Antidote, Does ANYONE know if someone is already making these from the files that were released?? I thought I'd catch up on this... Before going down the rabbit hole. Anyone, thanks

I just had 4 made on my last SendCutSend order. Have not bent them yet.

Could I trouble someone to measure the height of the bottom bolt on on IJ's rear legs? (As measured from the bottom of the cabinet.) My original is 2" high. I have a repro cabinet where it is 1.5" high. All my other Williams cabs seem to be 1.5" high as well. Wondering if IJ is an oddidity or my original has been wrong all this time.

IMG_4539 (resized).jpg

IMG_4540 (resized).jpg

Without pulling the machine out, it looks to measure 2".

Ive just done the exact same thing. Not bent them yet either. Are you just going to bend them in a vice?

I was going to use this along with a bench vise:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4-inch-vise-press-brake.html

I've been having SendCutSend do bends for me with good results, but the DXF would need to have bend lines in it already. Not sure they could make all the 3 bends on the deflector anyway as they are very close together.

I'm far from being a new IJ owner, but am new to this forum thread.

Yesterday, the dot matrix screen went from its normal fine and tightly joined dots to showing the constituent dots individually, with some larger blockiness and separation. So, I'm thinking thinking that the display board must be starting to exhibit problems. Does that sound right to you ? What should be done about this ? Hoping it won't be necessary to replace the board . . . . Could see if a pic can capture this reasonably well, if that is needed for reference.

For grins and giggles before going deeper, with power off, reseat the cables going to the display, and all the way back to the driver board, power up and view the results.

Is this a original plasma DMD or an aftermarket (ColorDMD or Pin2DMD)?

First thing to try is re-seating the cables (as per Billc479 post) including both the ribbon cables between the CPU and DMD Controller board. If that doesn't work post a video of what is being displayed

Original. (Thus far, I've yet to see sufficient value in going to one of those $500. Color DMD "upgrades." Or maybe I'm just cheap, absent really compelling reasons to do something like that. Ditto for the vast majority of aftermarket game mods. Possibly a different story, IF one has $$$ to burn . . . I did spring for the $20 5.0 game ROM update for CFTBL, but that's an easy one, and perhaps it will offer enough of an improvement to keep me from selling that pin.)

Anyway, thanks for the tip. Will try it and report back.

I had the same problem. Marco sells the 5 ribbon cables $55. Replaced all 5. Never had that problem again.

Finally got the POA lights during Eternal Life multiball and completed the mode, albeit with closed outlanes and a loose tilt . Now if only I could find that Fish of Tayles…

On another note, the coin slot lights go out sometimes when I shoot Mode Start, and relight seemingly randomly (once when I lit the last INDY rollover). I haven’t been able to recreate it exactly though to start troubleshooting. Game plays totally fine and it’s not a big deal, but it’s weird. Is that just part of the software that won’t let another player buy in during specific times or something? I’m running the L7 ROM, and it’s an early production game without the Super Ball buy-in. Any ideas? I’ll try to post a video later today.

Ya my game doesn't the same time just the odd time but never found out why it is odd

The first time I heard fish of tales I was like, wtf lol

Have you guys ever held both flippers then hit start. Go to mine cart, and crash through the 4th right closed gate? It is so awesome!!!

No have not wow

SFBP36. Not sure if this has anything to do with your question, but I think there’s a setting that disables the credit button and coin slot after ball one has been played or all four players selected.

That selection keeps someone from hitting the start button when you’re playing, and then it only seems to happen when you’re having one of the best games in your life. (Thanks a lot, assh*le!)

I don’t know if it blanks the coin door lights or not.

Ok thanks Will!

Interesting, I’ll dig through the menus. Thanks.

Ya on my just some games not all the coin lights will go off for a while then the next game u play will be back on not sure what that is

Np bud

Links ? (Wouldn't want to get the wrong ones.)

A lot of these widebody games were crammed full of features. So many features that there's an 8-Driver Auxiliary board that implements an additional 8x controlled solenoid (or flasher) drives on top of the available 28x that are standard (16x inductive diode protected, 4x resistive not diode protected and 8x general purpose selectively diode protected). This 8-Driver board can also implement another whole column of switches (actually 2 whole columns but only one was actually used). However, it doesn't implement more lamp columns.

There are techniques that the game designers (implementation engineers actually) can do to get some extra switches or lamps without the 8-Driver board. If there is a fliptronic board and not all 4 flippers are being used, those unused flipper drive transistors and playfield/cabinet opto switches can be re-purposed for other things. The drive transistors can drive additional solenoids and the opto switches can be used for other playfield purposes. You will find that this is true for this game (the E-N-T drop targets are re-purposed flipper switches and the POA diverter/post are re-purposed flipper solenoids).

The one thing that is NOT easy to do is get more available lamps. Not easy but not impossible.

One trick Williams did was to use the GI circuits. The GI circuits have limited software control. They can be dimmed but are dimmed as a group. In WPC-89, there are five strings that can be individually controlled. These are BRN/WHT-BRN, ORG/WHT-ORG, YEL/WHT-YEL, GRN/WHT-GRN and VIO/WHT-VIO. The VIO/WHT-VIO (hereafter known as VIO) is also dedicated to the cabinet (coin door). You will see that this string originates at J119. The coin door is ALWAYS the VIO string.

If you take a closer look at your playfield wiring, you will see the answer to your question.

ij_lites_hand_of_fate.jpg

It is GI being used as software controlled lighting (as a group). The game is out of software controlled lamps in the lamp matrix. The VIO string is being used as a feature. The side-effect is that when the feature is OFF (i.e. you are playing one of the modes) then the coin door lamps are OFF. I assume Williams did this because the "LITES HAND OF FATE" is usually on and only off when playing a mode. It was probably hoped that the player would not notice the coin door lamps going out because they would be too busy playing the game.

For those interested:

• The Terminator 2 "CPU" in the center of that playfield is also GI under mode control.
• The Twilight Zone "clock" in the translight is also GI under mode control.